Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil

Hey, he may just prove us all wrong?!?!

People thought I was stupid for putting on a Progressive body lift. My shit is straight level and rig is just fine. Only my rig wasn't going to blow up if it didn't work.

But I am still going to follow... with interests.
 
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does anyone know how to take the main caps off or get to the main caps? I unbolted the 8 bolts that support the metal piece that has 3 large holes to access the rod caps and it will not come out. Do I need to take something else out? I hope the oil pump doesn't need to be taken out. :wtf:

This is stupidity in action. You can't even figure out how to get the bearing caps off, and you think you're going to get this thing running again after it seized? You need to get a grip. Have you thought about all the other bearings that went without oil? You know, the like the ones on the camshafts? Oh, and how about the surfaces on the cam lobes? You think those are still in good shape after going metal to metal?

The entire notion that you can replace the main bearings and get this running again is absolutely and completely absurd. The engine is JUNK. You've been told that at least a dozen different people here who know what they're talking about, and you just ignore.

At least it will be comical to watch you fail, because I'm absolutely certain you'd attempt to screw someone by selling them this thing. There's no other reason you'd want to try and Band-Aid it like this. :lol:
 
The entire notion that you can replace the main bearings and get this running again is absolutely and completely absurd. The engine is JUNK.

I would just like to echo this sentiment. This engine has been overheated, seized and generally neglected. There is almost positively more wrong than "simple" (which are proving themselves to be less and less simple) main/rod bearings.

Just like jeremyc74 said; "Have you thought about cam bearings and lobe surfaces?" what about the little bits of bearing running around in your engine? These could block oil passages, score cylinder walls and basically wreak havoc and cause mayhem.

While undertaking an in-frame rebuild is not completely impossible, it is an extremely bad idea without the right tools and know-how. And people with the right tools and know-how would generally just pull it to get it right the first time. This is not going to save you any thing in the long run,... because doing things twice is like doing them for free...

:boom:
 
Didn't say he didn't but we all thought he was crazy and it wouldn't work either. Even cut his own valve reliefs in the pistons with them still in the motor. Crazy guy but the results speak for themselves. Reliable 10sec truck.

As I said, anyone whom is building a High HP engine for race purposes, pretty much damn well knows what they are doing. And they do it damn well, even if some of the methods used are "radical" or "insane".

That said, as a retired mechanic. The idea of rebuilding an engine that has seen NO oil pressure. Is hopeless. Especially an asian market motor. The tolerances and materials used in construction of them are no where near what would make it viable to just "rebearing" it and go.

With the European and Asian market engines, they learned long ago, that Cams don't NEED bearings. They simply need an extremely well machines surface area where pressurized oil has to be forced into, and create a pillow to ride on. There for, we no longer see babbit material placed in cam journals in heads. Those, will be complete ruined in this engine. As will the tiny ports that lead to them. Same with the crank passageways. They too will have metal shrapnel in them. As will the oil pump, pick up, etc, etc, etc.

Realistically the Op is best served finding a recycled engine for a couple hundred bucks and hoping for the best. The second best route would be a recycled/overhauled engine from a reputable place (LKQ, Engine world, etc..) that would have a short warranty. Obviously the best bet, would be a factory long block, but that's not likely be cheap nor readily available.
 
Same thing happened to the PO of my 04 tacoma. He had a oil leak (which turned out to just be a loose oil filter) but he never had it checked and just kept adding oil, bed was full of empty oil containers. He ran it low causing internal engine damage. He had it towed into my work and when we gave him the estimate for a engine replacement he declined the repairs. He stated that he would sell it to a local pick-n-pull junkyard so i purchased it instead. I found a 69k mile 3.4L on ebay out of a totaled 03 tacoma prerunner. I replaced all the maintance items and installed it. It's been about 2 years now and i love this truck. Don't be scared of a used engine just verify the mileage. I did a carfax on the donor truck's vin and the last recorded mileage matched when it was totaled. I've done many upgrades to it since i got it up and running, it's been a fun project.
 

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Same thing happened to the PO of my 04 tacoma. He had a oil leak (which turned out to just be a loose oil filter) but he never had it checked and just kept adding oil,


That first photo, is an absolute PERFECT example of what I was talking about. Thanks for that!
 
warning to all in the santa cruz area looking for a 4runner on craigslist soon

prob listed as recent oil change and filters
 
Here is an update on the situation. The crankshaft is out of spec so I am going to have to pull the engine. It is taking some time but I should have it out soon-ish. When/if i successfully get the engine out I am wondering what I should replace while I have it out. I am still unsure if I will be re-building the engine or simply swapping it out for a used one.

Also, I am trying to figure out if pulling the fan attached to the pulley in the front of the engine in necessary. I pulled the radiator out and took the belts off but wasn't sure how to approach taking the large fan off.
 
Same thing happened to the PO of my 04 tacoma. He had a oil leak (which turned out to just be a loose oil filter) but he never had it checked and just kept adding oil, bed was full of empty oil containers. He ran it low causing internal engine damage. He had it towed into my work and when we gave him the estimate for a engine replacement he declined the repairs. He stated that he would sell it to a local pick-n-pull junkyard so i purchased it instead. I found a 69k mile 3.4L on ebay out of a totaled 03 tacoma prerunner. I replaced all the maintance items and installed it. It's been about 2 years now and i love this truck. Don't be scared of a used engine just verify the mileage. I did a carfax on the donor truck's vin and the last recorded mileage matched when it was totaled. I've done many upgrades to it since i got it up and running, it's been a fun project.

This is AWESOME! Great job!
 
Here is an update on the situation.. .
Also, I am trying to figure out if pulling the fan attached to the pulley in the front of the engine in necessary. I pulled the radiator out and took the belts off but wasn't sure how to approach taking the large fan off.
You're just trolling at this point, right? You're going to tell us that you and houjames8675309 are them same person?
 
Here is an update on the situation. The crankshaft is out of spec so I am going to have to pull the engine. It is taking some time but I should have it out soon-ish. When/if i successfully get the engine out I am wondering what I should replace while I have it out. I am still unsure if I will be re-building the engine or simply swapping it out for a used one.

Also, I am trying to figure out if pulling the fan attached to the pulley in the front of the engine in necessary. I pulled the radiator out and took the belts off but wasn't sure how to approach taking the large fan off.

Um, the fan can either come off at the fan clutch(4 nuts) or at the pulley (4 nuts) Pretty easy compared to removing a crank shaft I would think.
 
You're just trolling at this point, right? You're going to tell us that you and houjames8675309 are them same person?

Hi, can you tell me how to get the hood off. It isn't coming off with my screwdriver... :snacker:

Thanks.
 
Here is an update on the situation. The crankshaft is out of spec so I am going to have to pull the engine. It is taking some time but I should have it out soon-ish. When/if i successfully get the engine out I am wondering what I should replace while I have it out. I am still unsure if I will be re-building the engine or simply swapping it out for a used one.

What's "out of spec" mean? Does it just need ground and polished, or are you going to need a new crank? If the crank is shot it's a good bet so is everything else. It'll be quicker to replace it, probably cheaper to rebuild it yourself. I did a quick search, here's a new longblock for $2500: Toyota Engine 5VZE 5VZ 3.4L v6 Long Block 1995-2004. Here's a used JDM motor for $1700: JDM Engine - JDM Motors - JDM Parts - JDM Transmission - Honda Cars, Nissan, Subaru, Mazda, Toyota. A quick search on car-part.com shows junkyard motors in California starting at $800 and going up. If you hunt around I'm sure you could find cheaper examples of each. By comparison, master rebuild kits look like they're around $500 plus or minus, and you can plan on spending at least several hundred more at the machine shop getting everything ground and honed and decked and etc.

Do you have a copy of the FSM? You need one, and if you have one you need to read it.
 
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