Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil

[TFRnoob]

It's not the only way, but it's how I do it. Sometimes those little clips can be a pain, they're easier to get to with the motor out.

You won't normally get a harness with a domestic long block. I don't know about JDM motors.

Yeah, I have decided to do what you recommended and simply disconnect the harness at the ECU.

So I have most of what I need disconnected from the top of the engine and now comes the pain of disconnecting things while lying under the engine with engine oil dripping on my face.

Under the truck, where I would jack the transmission up seems to be blocked by some bars etc. Should I be taking these off to make sure the tranny is secured. Should I be worried about the tranny falling on my head?

 

[TFRnoob]

Aight, I gotta go there... WTF are you doing? It's the engine. Don't pull the tranny and transfer case with it. And there is NO need to pull the wire harness with it.

It seems easier to just disconnect the harness from the ECU so I just did that instead. 3 clips in an easily reached place vs. multiple clips all over the engine in difficult places to reach.

The plan was to pull the tranny with the engine w/o the transfer case but if I can figure out how to get that done than I will just pull the engine w/o the tranny at all. Although, I want to be able to move the car every couple of days to make it seem like I have a functioning truck. My landlord is sensitive to the truck just sitting in his driveway (understandably). So the original plan was to pull the tranny with the engine (like the chilton guide said) so I could move the truck. However, I think if I secure the bell housing as was suggested to me I will be able to move the truck around b/c the jack will not be needed.

PS what is the speedometer cable called?

 

[TFRnoob]

Speedbump #1

While taking the front exhaust pipe to the manifold off I stripped one of the 3 14mm bolts. The bolt seems to have seized. I then thought no big deal I will just take the bolt out using the torx E8 and that stripped too. Now I am SOL.

I may need a laser gun to remove the bolt. :laser:

Also, While taking out the bolts one came out with the nut and the other only the nut came off. Do I need to have the bolt come out or will the engine be able to slide off not that the nut is off? I am looking into getting some tools to deal with my current problem. I remember using a tap and dye kit when I encountered a similar problem when removing my SAAB's cylinder head. :/ What a pain.

 

[cashmoney]

Cut the bolt head off and get it out once you have the engine out.

 

[TFRnoob]

Cut the bolt head off and get it out once you have the engine out.

Looks like I won't really be able to get the engine out without getting that bolt off first though, right?

 

[cashmoney]

Cutting the head off the bolt and removing the other bolts should allow it to come off.

 

[TFRnoob]

Okay, so I am trying to figure out how I am going to separate the transmission from the engine.

So far, I have gotten the wires that run from then engine along the tranny and finally to the O2 sensor mostly off. There are two points that are proving difficult. I also got the bracket that holds the tranmission fluid dipstick free. I separated the (fuel lines?) or something and now it looks like all that is left are the actual bolts that hold the tranmission bell housing to the block.

Before I attempt to loosen and remove those bolts, I had a few simple questions.

1. How many bolts am I looking for (also, where are their approximate locations)?

2. Where should I place the jack so that my head isn't crushed if/when I free the tranny?

3. Will any special tools make accessing the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine block any easier?

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[TFRnoob]

Cutting the head off the bolt and removing the other bolts should allow it to come off.

The only thing I am concerned with about this approach is the threads. The bolt doesnt have a head and screws directly into the joint area. The nut may come free but I still might be stuck with a connection that will not separate. Does this make sense or am I not understanding what is going on?

 

[TFRnoob]

If you wouldn't mind letting us know when your truck heads to the local PicknPull there may be something salvageable.

Sorry, if I don't get the truck to run I feel like it would be more entertaining to set it ablaze and push it off a cliff. I will let you know where to get any salvageable parts from there though. There may be fewer functioning parts to use after the dramatic burning free fall but the silver lining is that any parts that still functioning would be free of charge.

I'll keep you posted. :cell:

... in all seriousness, yes, I will let you and everybody else know which junkyard to scavenge if this doesn't work.

 

[TFRnoob]

I found a good resource for taking the engine out:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/104654-5vz-fe-removal.html

 

[stir_fry_boy]

:snacker:

Wow. If I was a noob at working on cars, I could just read this thread and pull the engine.

If you get a JDM, make sure to transfer crank and cam sensors from old to new, they can be different. I've always left the wires in the car and pulled the motor.

 

[cashmoney]

Only one of the two flanges are threaded. The threaded one is the one the stud is screwed in to. The other one just slips over it and the nut secures the two. Cut the thing off and the one flange will slide off and when you get the engine out you can use an extractor to remove the rest of the stud and then get a new one.

 

[Diezel]

:snacker:

Wow. If I was a noob at working on cars, I could just read this thread and pull the engine.

If you get a JDM, make sure to transfer crank and cam sensors from old to new, they can be different. I've always left the wires in the car and pulled the motor.

He'll likely need more depending on the JDM setup.

 

[KidVermicious]

Okay, so I am trying to figure out how I am going to separate the transmission from the engine.

So far, I have gotten the wires that run from then engine along the tranny and finally to the O2 sensor mostly off. There are two points that are proving difficult. I also got the bracket that holds the tranmission fluid dipstick free. I separated the (fuel lines?) or something and now it looks like all that is left are the actual bolts that hold the tranmission bell housing to the block.

Before I attempt to loosen and remove those bolts, I had a few simple questions.

1. How many bolts am I looking for (also, where are their approximate locations)?

2. Where should I place the jack so that my head isn't crushed if/when I free the tranny?

3. Will any special tools make accessing the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine block any easier?

Thanks for the help everyone!

The one on the right is your A340h bell housing, that's got your bolt holes.

Easier than a jack is a ratchet strap. Loop it around the frame rails and under the trans right behind the bell housing, then ratchet it tight. That'll let you move the truck around the driveway.

No special tools, but there's a couple tricks to getting at those top bolts. You can unbolt the trans/tcase at the crossmember and jack it up, tilting the engine forward. You could also remove the engine mounts from the frame and the motor and then lower the motor onto the frame, which will also pull it down and away from the firewall. Sometimes you can get at those bolts with an ungodly assortment of extensions and wobbles through the shifter opening in the trans tunnel. Most of the time though, it's easiest just to sit on top of the motor and reach down there with a box end and turn those bolts a 1/4 inch at a time until they're free.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

He'll likely need more depending on the JDM setup.

Totally agree. Those are just 2 specific ones I know of. Never done a Toyota, only done Hondas so far.

 

[Akulla72]

I recently bought a motor from JDM, having it installed down the street at a shop near me, hope the know about the sensors.

Anyways heres a motor with too much oil, and no oil changes for years.

 

[TFRnoob]

I recently bought a motor from JDM, having it installed down the street at a shop near me, hope the know about the sensors.

Anyways heres a motor with too much oil, and no oil changes for years.

Ouch, that is hard to look at. What are they charging you for the install?

Anyway, I drained the transmission fluid after work last night. I was feeling tired so I ended up not working on the truck past that. I was thinking about how I will be needing to take the flywheel off. I can already access the bolts to the flywheel in the bell housing but I haven't tried loosening them.

I am pretty sure that the flywheel will spin if I try to loosen the bolts. Is there an easy way to prevent this from happening? On one hand I need to spin the flywheel to get to all of the bolts, on the other, I need the flywheel stationary and secured so I can loosen the bolts. This is a problem.

Comments? thoughts? ideas? stories?

Thanks everyone

 

[Akulla72]

They gave me a ballpark figure of $1500, not including anything that might go wrong along the way.

 

[TFRnoob]

They gave me a ballpark figure of $1500, not including anything that might go wrong along the way.

That's really not too bad. The shop I first went to quoted $7k for engine removal, engine, and engine install.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Ouch, that is hard to look at. What are they charging you for the install?

Anyway, I drained the transmission fluid after work last night. I was feeling tired so I ended up not working on the truck past that. I was thinking about how I will be needing to take the flywheel off. I can already access the bolts to the flywheel in the bell housing but I haven't tried loosening them.

I am pretty sure that the flywheel will spin if I try to loosen the bolts. Is there an easy way to prevent this from happening? On one hand I need to spin the flywheel to get to all of the bolts, on the other, I need the flywheel stationary and secured so I can loosen the bolts. This is a problem.

Comments? thoughts? ideas? stories?

Thanks everyone

You don't need to remove the flywheel to get the engine out. If you are trying to get the transmission drive plate unbolted from the flywheel, use a breaker bar on crank pulley against the frame and remove the bolts. Sometimes you don't need to do that as the small bolts holding the tranny plate to the flywheel are not tight at all.