Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil

[TFRnoob]

Honestly... I'm giving you major props for tackling this on your own with such limited mechanical knowledge.

That's not meant as an insult or sarcasm either.

As much as I'm facepalming myself after reading some of your posts, I truly commend you for just diving right in like that.

..carry on.

Yeah, thanks! I am a little surprised I got the engine out too. I guess you gotta do what you gotta do I guess. We will see how the install goes and how the rebuild goes if I end up doing that too. This work is horribly frustrating but even more rewarding and I learn a lot every time I get myself into one of these "projects". Without this forum it may have been impossible for me to get this done so I appreciate all of the help even though I am a stubborn bastard sometimes.

Thanks to you and everyone for the entertaining and/or helpful comments. Keep 'em coming!

 

[TFRnoob]

Well if your issues were knocking I would get a used one from your local yard. Look on Craigslist under part for sale you might get lucky and find one. If your upper engine is bad there's no sense in redoing the whole upper.

Down here in Texas I get them for about 800. Look into it before you decide to rebuild or swap. Some yards give me a 90 warranty.

Swap is quicker and more reasonable if you never done a full rebuild or upper. You won't get much money for a scrap engine, maybe if the heads are good you can resell for about 150.

Nice well if anyone comes across a good find and don't need it themselves, give me a shout! I am on the hunt.

 

[4Runnermex]

Yeah, thanks! I am a little surprised I got the engine out too. I guess you gotta do what you gotta do I guess. We will see how the install goes and how the rebuild goes if I end up doing that too. This work is horribly frustrating but even more rewarding and I learn a lot every time I get myself into one of these "projects". Without this forum it may have been impossible for me to get this done so I appreciate all of the help even though I am a stubborn bastard sometimes.



Thanks to you and everyone for the entertaining and/or helpful comments. Keep 'em coming!

If you decide to get a used engine seal it completely while its outside.

Rear mail seal
oil pan gasket
Valve cover gaskets
Spark plugs

Depending on the year engine you get look at the exhaust and engine mounts. 01-02 engine mounts and AC brackets are different.

Definitely need to keep you current harness, I would suggest take pics of you current engine while out. So when you transfer from old to new you'll know where everything falls.

Also when you're ready to drop engine raise tranny to mid high point and marry engine together with tranny. Spotter helps, my son is my best help. He drops hoist and tranny as I'm positioning the engine with tranny and motor mounts. When I see they're lined up I have him pilot mid way the tranny bolts first of both sides of the hub.

I can give you better pointers on install when you're ready. Done quite a bit of this swaps around 40/50 of them. I started the same way STUBBORN cause a mechanic wanted to rape me on the swap.

It's been addicting!! Good luck HMU if you need help.

 

[4Runnermex]

Nice well if anyone comes across a good find and don't need it themselves, give me a shout! I am on the hunt.

Btw there's a guy here in town that has an 02 175k on it for 900..

Unfortunately I'm in Texas Dk how to ship something like this at all.

 

[4Runnermex]

Nice well if anyone comes across a good find and don't need it themselves, give me a shout! I am on the hunt.

2002 Toyota 4 Runner $1
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/5200531559.html

via cPro Craigslist App
iOS: http://tinyurl.com/CL-iDevice
Android: http://tinyurl.com/CL-Android

I've met this guy and stripped a lot of parts of this limited. I've verified it has low miles, they're saying engine not for sale but I've talked to them. Show them the money and they'll let that baby go. It's a clean one.

 

[4Runnermex]

Thanks! Does the torque converter need to be drained? It seems like there is fluid inside.

No!! Keep the fluid in. you can make sure to top it off if it needs it. Put back in tranny to keep from crap getting in.

 

[cashmoney]

Why keep the fluid in the converter? Drain it out, seal it up, and when you are ready fill it back up with fluid. That way you aren't contaminating new fluid in the transmission with the old fluid in the converter.

 

[Jhelms]

All the props in the world on this one man! Like another said, I have done more than my share of face palms reading this thread BUT I look way back in time at my maybe.. 10 year old self and I learned the SAME way with a little guidance. No fear - and just tear everything apart and learn - hope to hell it worked when I got it back together and luckily, it always did (most always haha) Keep up the good work!


Oh and drain the darn torque converter! Use all new fluid. Once drained, just toss it in a trash bag to keep it clean.
:guitar3: :guitar3::guitar3::guitar3::guitar3::guitar3:

 

[TFRnoob]

After putting my 5VZ-FE on the engine stand I drug it across my backyard. In hindsight, I think heavy object on wheels + uneven grass,weeds and dirt = living nightmare and what I should have done is either left the wheels off the stand entirely or maybe made a makeshift sled to slide it easily across the uneven surface.

So I got it where I wanted it and yesterday I got the throttle body, and engine harness off. I had one heck of a time putting the engine to TDC because when I inspected the crankshaft and rods etc through the oil pan I removed the caps and rod bearings. When I would turn the crank, it would push the pistons up but it would not bring them back down causing interference with rotating the crank any further. What I did was simply pull the pistons down with some plyers over and over again until the crank was in the desired position.

I also realized that the way I assembled the engine stand makes it impossible to rotate the engine fully. Some bolts get in the way. This isn't super important to me but it did make it a pain to getting to the underside of the engine. It is still a whole lot easier than it would be if it was still in the truck though!

I am still unsure as to what my plan is but I have decided to take the engine apart while I save money for either a rebuild or used engine. I am thinking I want this truck for a long while so I am a little nervous about a junkyard engine and I am a little too strapped for cash to buy an already rebuilt engine so I am just moving forward any way I can. We will see what happens I guess.

 

[TFRnoob]

What are some important things to consider when dismantling an engine? I remember when doing a head gasket on my SAAB some years back, timing was everything and that is why I rotated the crank to TDC. Other than that, I have been just taking stuff off and hoping I remember where it goes haha

 

[TFRnoob]

Major props to whoever can tell me where the heck that little brown plastic piece is that I am holding in my hand in one of the pics. I found it lodged in the hole just next to it in the pic... All I know is it sure shouldn't be there. Makes me wonder what else is floating around in my engine.

I am stick right now. I need to find out how to remove the heads. I really don't want to bend any valves...been there done that on another car. That being said, I am pretty sure I need to get the cam shafts free from the sprocket that meets the timing belt. On the SAAB I worked on it had a nice area on the camshaft to place a wrench so I could give the bolt holding the sprocket to the cam shaft some torque without moving the cam shaft and potentially bending valves.

This looks a little different in the 5VZ-FE.

Anyway, please help, I need all I can get.

 

[TFRnoob]

I'm blind, I see that there are places on the cam shaft to secure with wrench so I can remove the camshaft pulleys. :lol:

 

[KidVermicious]

Other than that, I have been just taking stuff off and hoping I remember where it goes haha

If your memory is anything like mine, this is a losing game. Here's how I stay organized - first, every bolt and nut that can, goes right back where it came from. Once the intake comes off, the nuts go right back on the studs. Once the radiator comes off, the bolts go right back in their holes, etc. When I can't replace them immediately, I put them in a sandwich baggy and label it. I tag every vacuum/heater hose and harness connection on both ends, and I take a shit ton of pictures.

Pay attention to bolt lengths. Frequently a part will have bolts of several different sizes, and you'll need to remember where the long ones go and where the short ones go. If you find something like that, draw a picture of the part on a piece of cardboard and poke holes where the bolts go, then stick them in there in the same position you pulled them off the motor.

 

[TFRnoob]

Haste makes waste

If your memory is anything like mine, this is a losing game. Here's how I stay organized - first, every bolt and nut that can, goes right back where it came from. Once the intake comes off, the nuts go right back on the studs. Once the radiator comes off, the bolts go right back in their holes, etc. When I can't replace them immediately, I put them in a sandwich baggy and label it. I tag every vacuum/heater hose and harness connection on both ends, and I take a shit ton of pictures.

Pay attention to bolt lengths. Frequently a part will have bolts of several different sizes, and you'll need to remember where the long ones go and where the short ones go. If you find something like that, draw a picture of the part on a piece of cardboard and poke holes where the bolts go, then stick them in there in the same position you pulled them off the motor.

Yup, I agree 100%. I am done for when it comes to the wiring harness and tubes. I am relying on the tube shape as much as possible and I took pics of the wiring harness but I am not sure that will even be much help as I blazed through that as fast as possible. As far as the bolts go, I think I have been doing as good of job as I can. I have the labeled sandwich baggy trick down and for brackets I try and leave bolts in as often as possible. Great advice, and I wish I had taken the time of tape labeling the wiring harness and tubes. I am definitely not looking forward to putting humpty dumpty back together.

 

[TFRnoob]

Anyone have any good ideas on how to remove the timing belt etc.? Also, how stripped does the block need to be to get a bottom end rebuild? Do I need to remove the pistons etc or would the machinist do that?

 

[cashmoney]

Cut the timing belt off. You will need to strip the block bare and take it to the machinist. Otherwise they'll bill you for it and it's not cheap.

 

[TFRnoob]

I have most of what I can take off separated from the engine. I am however, having a heck of a time separating the cam shaft pulleys from the camshafts. I am using a 10 inch wrench on the cam shaft flats and a large socket wrench on the 17mm pulley bolt. I am using everything I have and it doesn't budge. I sprayed some penetrating oil and still nothing. I am unsure as to what to do at this point. Any suggestions?

That being said, I haven't successfully separated the heads from the block yet. Once I get the heads off, one of the only other things left is the crankshaft pulley which I anticipate will be even more difficult than the camshaft pulleys I can't separate at the moment. ray:

 

[TFRnoob]

bump.

still cant get the pulleys off, haven't even attempted the crank pulley yet. any suggestions?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

bump.

still cant get the pulleys off, haven't even attempted the crank pulley yet. any suggestions?

Impact gun and sockets.

 

[TFRnoob]

Impact gun and sockets.

Unfortunately I do not have access to that. I would buy some but I think it might be cheaper to have the machinist take the stubborn bolts off for $80/hr. I bought an 18" breaker bar and am trying that... This is unusually difficult. Also, I hope I haven't bent the valves. We will see once/if I get this off.