Yeah, you're right. I haven't done the front or the transfer case yet, so perhaps when I do those I'll just do everything with OEM fluid and be done with it. I'm frankly just annoyed about being shorted. Even after adding 3 full quarts, I could barely get the tip of my pinky finger wet when reaching into the fill hole. Something isn't right there.
Front and Rear Diff fluid change
- Thread starter Mijfwb23
- Start date
1000MPH
Senior Member
OEM fluid is stupid expensive and won't make your diff last any longer.
The spec on the rear TE diff is sorta wrong, it takes more than 3 qts to fill until it runs out.
lmturne1
New member
I will not contest that the fluid is expensive. I have read these threads until I have been blue in the face trying to decide what fluid I would have used to replace and finally gave in, accepting that the diffs only needed to be changed every 30K. I can live with that.
Per liter the fluid comes out to be ~$25, and 5 needed to sufficiently service the diffs (4.2).
FWIW, 0W-20 costs ~ $35 per change ($5 per quart @ 7 quarts (really 6.6)) and that is only good for 10K, so these kind of even out.
Differential (F&R) and Transfer Case - Check at 19.2K Miles
I have a 2015 4Runner TRD City Driven mostly and 4WD used seldom.
I checked the gear oil this past week at 19.2K miles :
1) Rear Differential - Drained and Refilled with Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Oil. As others have reported , the original fill oil was black . I flushed with a quart of gear oil before filling.
2) Transfer Case- Checked, original fill up to proper level and clean and clear like honey. Have the 75W Toyota oil on hand ($$$) , but will drain and refill at 30K miles.
3) Front Differential- Checked , original fill up to proper level and clean and clear like honey. I had planned on draining and refilling, but the oil was so clear decided to wait until 30K miles.
Used new gaskets , thanks to other members who have posted the correct gasket part numbers. Rear Diff. and Transfer Case easy access; the front differential access a minor challenge as the skid plate had to be removed. I only checked the fluid level in front, had I performed a drain and refill it would have been tight quarters to fill and I would have needed to removed the transmission (?) case cover . A hand pump would be needed to fill.
I guess I should have checked the gear oil levels sooner, thankfully Toyota filled to proper specs.
I have a 2015 4Runner TRD City Driven mostly and 4WD used seldom.
I checked the gear oil this past week at 19.2K miles :
1) Rear Differential - Drained and Refilled with Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Oil. As others have reported , the original fill oil was black . I flushed with a quart of gear oil before filling.
2) Transfer Case- Checked, original fill up to proper level and clean and clear like honey. Have the 75W Toyota oil on hand ($$$) , but will drain and refill at 30K miles.
3) Front Differential- Checked , original fill up to proper level and clean and clear like honey. I had planned on draining and refilling, but the oil was so clear decided to wait until 30K miles.
Used new gaskets , thanks to other members who have posted the correct gasket part numbers. Rear Diff. and Transfer Case easy access; the front differential access a minor challenge as the skid plate had to be removed. I only checked the fluid level in front, had I performed a drain and refill it would have been tight quarters to fill and I would have needed to removed the transmission (?) case cover . A hand pump would be needed to fill.
I guess I should have checked the gear oil levels sooner, thankfully Toyota filled to proper specs.
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MossJenks
New member
That's a unique situation for sure. I don't think I've ever had an under-filled can of Redline. I've been using it for years and pretty much everyone in my Alfa Romeo club have too. I just now went down and poured a quart can of RL 75w90-NS into a big measuring cup and got an even quart.
Did you measure that 4th quart to see just what it measured?
Lots of luck ruining Redline's name! Everyone in the racing and vintage communities consider Redline oils to be some of the best if not THE best.
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Long story short, while out on the trail I ended up on my rear diff. A rock actually backed the drain plug put a half turn. Enough to make it drip. I decided to dump the fluid which was wise it looked done at 15k miles. My question is I got a near 3 qts in and it calls for 2.8. Should I be concerned? The new fluid is just below the fill plug.
Woz1976-MT
New member
Don't worry. When I replaced mine with RP 75W-90, it took a bit more than 3 qts. As long as you let it drain thoroughly, cleaned the magnet, and then refill until it leaks out of the fill hole slightly, you're good.
the diff gear oil can be around 3 qts because it all depends on how long you allow it to drain and how the vehicle sits ... slightly off level will cause it to be different on the amounts.
my rear diff did take almost 3 qts. I did wait an hour to allow drain.. then after filling and let it sit a day rechecked before driving it .. it was about 1/4 inch below the fill hole.
first time I change rear gear oil 3K miles oil was very dark .. all other drive train fluids perfect condition rear diff IMO was in need of replacing 3K miles............
2013 Limited @60,000
As my user name indicates, I am new at all this. 2013 Limited @60,000. City/highway driving, no off roading. I visited the dealership the other day and asked them if I needed to change the transfer fluid/differential fluid etc. and the answer was they'd recommend it but I don't really have to do them. He gave a list of estimates on the costs if I were to do these things. He also said the transmission case doesn't have a dip stick and is sealed, that they'd need to warm the car, then cool it at certain temperature in order to change the fluid properly--sounded like he knew what he was talking about.
I have never changed any of these since I bought the car new in 2013.
What do you all think? I've been changing my own engine oil and consider myself an average DIYer.
Thanks,
As my user name indicates, I am new at all this. 2013 Limited @60,000. City/highway driving, no off roading. I visited the dealership the other day and asked them if I needed to change the transfer fluid/differential fluid etc. and the answer was they'd recommend it but I don't really have to do them. He gave a list of estimates on the costs if I were to do these things. He also said the transmission case doesn't have a dip stick and is sealed, that they'd need to warm the car, then cool it at certain temperature in order to change the fluid properly--sounded like he knew what he was talking about.
I have never changed any of these since I bought the car new in 2013.
What do you all think? I've been changing my own engine oil and consider myself an average DIYer.
Thanks,
1000MPH
Senior Member
That sounds like a surprisingly honest response from a dealer.
Personally, I would change the Diffs and TC but not the trans. Mostly because it's not very expensive and is easy for a DIYer. It's not really that you've done a ton of miles but, IMO, it's nice to verify fluid levels and that the plugs aren't frozen.
Care to give us a review on how the redline 75W85?
1000MPH
Senior Member
Amazon now sells Delvac 75W-90 for about $48/gal with free but not prime shipping.
The M1 Synth w/LS is around $8-$9/qt w/prime.
I've developed a leak around my drain plug that I've been watching on and off for several months. It looked like it was getting worse but I topped off with only about 8oz since my last change, about 10k miles ago. The good news is it's not coming from any other gasket or seal, I've got it isolated to the plug...hopefully. I added a few more ft-lbs when I re-torqued it a few days ago and haven't had any drips yet but they seem to appear after longer trips.
The M1 Synth w/LS is around $8-$9/qt w/prime.
I've developed a leak around my drain plug that I've been watching on and off for several months. It looked like it was getting worse but I topped off with only about 8oz since my last change, about 10k miles ago. The good news is it's not coming from any other gasket or seal, I've got it isolated to the plug...hopefully. I added a few more ft-lbs when I re-torqued it a few days ago and haven't had any drips yet but they seem to appear after longer trips.
Attachments
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Would also like to hear why you chose delvac
1000MPH
Senior Member
I chose it due to several recommendations from FJ owners. After a little research I also have read that Porsche race builders prefer it. There’s no limited slip additive but I don’t know how much that could possibly help. I really think we overthink this stuff, I’m definitely guilty.
Code:
AMSOIL SVG | Valvoline Synpower | Mobil Synthetic | Redline | Redline Lucas Oil |Royal Purple Maxgear
75w90 75w90 75w90 75w90 75w85 75w90 75w90
Viscosity @ 100°C 15.9 15.6 14.6 16.1 11.5 18.4 16.5
Viscosity @ 40°C 102.4 100 103 112 68 142 100
Viscosity Index 166 150 146 154 163 145 -
Flash Point (°C) 208 231 150 132 150 199 163
Flash Point (°F) 407 448 302 270 302 390 325dont exactly know how to format this but kinda gives you an idea of what im trying to accomplish only to find out that there's various oil testing methods to achieve these numbers... different method different numbers... bahH!
From the numbers, Redline 75w85 is the thinnest which is great for mpg but it also has the lowest flash point. Mobil 1 synthetic has the same flashpoint as well but many vehicle have run it without issue. Can anyone chime in on rear and front differential operating temps?
Lucas oil is super thick. Royal purple is expensive and there are better alternatives. Carquest/Peak 75w90 has very good numbers considering they're the cheapest on that list.
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So is the general consensus that the front diff and T/c are generally clean and the rear diff is the one that needs the change more often/close to the recommendation per the manual?
I have to look, I paid the dealer to do one change of diffs not sure about t/c though.
But I'm city folk and I don't have access to driveway space so it's going to be a mechanic job.... trying to be cost effective.
I have to look, I paid the dealer to do one change of diffs not sure about t/c though.
But I'm city folk and I don't have access to driveway space so it's going to be a mechanic job.... trying to be cost effective.
4string4runner
New member
fluid with LS additive should not be used in an open differential
My 2016 TE has an open dif
My 2016 TE has an open dif
