Front and Rear Diff fluid change

[MENTION=29376]sandcrawler[/MENTION]
You are so right. I just read your post. I checked the can and that's what I got. I put it in the transfer case already and drove it for 1/2 hour on Sunday. Should I change it out for the right stuff? Is it safe to drive for a while until I can get it? I have a trip planned for Mojave National Preserve this weekend. Maybe I need to go to Toyota tomorrow and get it from them for full price?
:lookout:

That'll be just fine. Most people are running around with generic 75w-90 in there.
 
Glad I came across this thread. Just had my 40K service at the dealer and was told the diffs should probably be changed.

I was going to wait until the 45K service and have them do it, but think Ill just grab a bunch of Mobil 1 75W-90 and the diffs and T-case myself this weekend.

I can only imagine what a dealer would charge for that...?
 
Glad I came across this thread. Just had my 40K service at the dealer and was told the diffs should probably be changed.

I was going to wait until the 45K service and have them do it, but think Ill just grab a bunch of Mobil 1 75W-90 and the diffs and T-case myself this weekend.

I can only imagine what a dealer would charge for that...?

transfer case runs a different fluid
 
DIY gear oil and engine oil change

I did my own gear oil service because the dealer screwed up my front skid plate, torqueing the bolts too tightly. When I tried to work on the lift I had to cut the skid plate off. Last night when I removed the engine oil canister that was torqued on pretty tightly too. It was probably more than the spec torque (in my notes at home).
Does Toyota do this just to piss us off or is it so only they can work on it, ie, job security?
I also did my own service because I have RCI skid plates and if I have my long-time mechanic do it he'll have to spend a few hours to reinstall it right, if he can.
Once the Baxter Performance remote oil filter is installed (tonight) I can hire my mechanic to do the oil change again. The job would be easier on a rack with better oil pump tools like my mechanic has.
Thanks again to the OP for posting this How-To thread.
Edit: The T4R has about 27,500 miles on it now. The oil change is nearly due and the gear oil change interval depends on several factors.
 
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Glad I came across this thread. Just had my 40K service at the dealer and was told the diffs should probably be changed.

I was going to wait until the 45K service and have them do it, but think Ill just grab a bunch of Mobil 1 75W-90 and the diffs and T-case myself this weekend.

I can only imagine what a dealer would charge for that...?

My dealer only wanted $50 ea. Definitely not the spec'd stuff. I doubt it's even synth at that price or close to the correct viscosity.
 
[MENTION=29376]sandcrawler[/MENTION]
You are so right. I just read your post. I checked the can and that's what I got. I put it in the transfer case already and drove it for 1/2 hour on Sunday. Should I change it out for the right stuff? Is it safe to drive for a while until I can get it? I have a trip planned for Mojave National Preserve this weekend. Maybe I need to go to Toyota tomorrow and get it from them for full price?
:lookout:

I put that in my TC about 2500 miles ago and have had no problem.
 
Good Mechanics are hard to find - or DIY

Are you certain you want to keep going to a mechanic that can't figure out a skid plate?

Yes, he and his brother are good and honest. They've taken good car of my Jeep GC for several years and did the last maintenance/warranty service on my T4R.

Mechanics are good at replacing factory OEM parts. They are not inventors, fabricators or modification experts. If I hired him to remove and replace the RCI skid plates he'd have to charge me for about 3 or 4 hours labor.

I did not find anyone here in my town that could have installed the ICON Stage 7 tubular lift, so I installed it. It took me several days to figure it out and I had lots of input from people here on this forum to guide me. I probably saved $1200.

If I hired my mechanic to install the Baxter Performance remote oil filter assembly it would have cost a small fortune. I put a lot of time into figuring out how to mount the remote filter base in the engine bay, fab'ing a couple of plates to mount it above some wiring cables, finding the right AN-10 hose and fittings and running the lines. The spin-on adapter was the easy part, except I had to run the oil lines below the KDSS sway bar and make sure it could still articulate. There's too many moving parts to just throw it in there. I plan to finish it tonight.

I didn't ask my mechanic to figure it out. I did the remote oil filter install. Once it's done I can have anyone do the oil change, including my regular mechanic.
 
Good mechanics and skid plates

That's kinda what I was thinking but didn't know how to say. Either that or those RCI skids are a total nightmare. I was thinking they were a bolt-on affair.

They are. Maybe I'm making it sound more difficult than it really is. But this time I'm installing the remote oil filter and I would not hire a mechanic to do that.

Good mechanics have enough experience to know what's wrong and how to fix it without replacing the whole car. They're also good at diagnosis. I've worked with mechanics that can do work I wouldn't try.

And oil changes are not expedient for me to do because I have so much prep to do and clean up. I'd rather hire most of the work than do it myself. I have other skills I'm better at. But having done the gear oil and oil change, I may keep doing it myself.
 
[MENTION=29376]sandcrawler[/MENTION]
You are so right. I just read your post. I checked the can and that's what I got. I put it in the transfer case already and drove it for 1/2 hour on Sunday. Should I change it out for the right stuff? Is it safe to drive for a while until I can get it? I have a trip planned for Mojave National Preserve this weekend. Maybe I need to go to Toyota tomorrow and get it from them for full price?
:lookout:
just seeing this. it's been said a few times already, but many people have been known to run the far-easier-to-find 75W90 in the transfer case without problems, so you're probably fine with the 75W85; it's that much closer to the OE spec 75W.

a shame, in a sense, though. you clearly put a lot of thought into the DIY service beforehand.
 
Ve read the back and forth about what oildls to use and some people were using delvac. I just wanted to make sure I got the right stuff (for the people that use it). I get it cheap from work so id like to start with that rather than $100 for 6 qts of royal purple.
 

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Looks like it. I've never seen it in that size.
What does the label on the back say as far as GL Approvals?
I knew they were changing the name to Delvac 1.
Hoy crap! Summit has the gallon size at a great price.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/mobil-1/product-line/mobil-delvac-synthetic-gear-oil

Gl5/mt1. I work in a shop that specializes in med and heavy duty trucks. We have the gallon size as well but I wanted these for ease of working with. $8 each.
 
Nice score. Same stuff, new packaging and new size.

So I just did my rear and it took 3.5 of those delvac quarts. Either I have an enlarged rear diff or those quarts are severely underfilled.

Also 2.5 qts came out only. Underfilled from the factory? I know its never been changed because the crush washers still had black factory paint on them
 
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