Front not level from left to right

[mgrande]

This is an issue with tacomas as well. The gas tank, battery, steering column, and driver all cause some sag. That said those pictures look extreme. Either installed wrong or coils aren't matching.

 

[Jeremy556]

Looking closely, it appears that the right side shock flange is not properly seated in the shock tower. Even the right side bolt threads don't come through as far as the ones in the photo of the left side (could just be an optical illusion on my part).

Perhaps the 1 on the right just needs to be turned/seated?? Does anyone else see what I'm seeing? I think I'd grab a flashlight and take a look up in the tower to see if it's properly seated.

rig, cheers

This appears to be the case, now that you mention it, it is very apparent:

 

[twelve1]

If they are not seated properly he will get some massive clunking and those bolts will get excessive wear and eventually snap. I would deff look into that and inspect the bolts. While your there, check torque on UCA and sway bar link bolts. Its very common to come lose.

 

[harper7]

No, haven't contacted ICON yet, will do.

Thanks for all the inputs, guys.

How much was the lean with the Icons on and the collars set even before you started cranking that drivers side one down?Icon is probably going to ask you this too.
Something is not right.:shrug: I have mine set 1,maybe 2 turns more on the drivers side and I'm within a 1/4" lean with a full tank of gas. The more you crank it down the more you compress the spring and the higher the spring rate goes up so you kind of want to keep them pretty close.Better to correct the lean with a 10mm trim spacer like from OME or Toytec that goes on top of the CO so the spring rate doesn't change ,just make sure the top 3 bolts are long enough and are of the same strength.But in your case that probably wouldn't work as they are so far off. If I were to guess, the springs were mixed up and one is the standard 650 in/lb and one is the optional 700 in/lb spring(pass side) .You didn't say how much lift you got from them but if I had mine set like your pass side it would be like an inch or so lift if it even goes that low . They should look like Qjake's for a 2 1/2 to 3 inch lift and pretty close to what mine look like.

My Procomp coil in the rear is the same way and it bugs me to death

[MENTION=88541]Sponge_bob[/MENTION]....You can try a trim spacer on top of the drivers rear spring like this one....OME FJ rear trim spacer - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits try swapping the springs from one side to the other first as spring manufacturers have tolerances as sometimes they are different even though the same part number. I've seen alot of sports car springs have the exact spring rates printed on them and vary by 10-20lbs like these rear 600lb springs that I ordered from Klein Racing for my old BMW . One was 607 and one you see here was 622 so the 622 went on the drivers side. My stock springs had colored rings painted on them indicating which one had a higher spring rate and the drivers side is supposed to be higher.

This appears to be the case, now that you mention it, it is very apparent:

That's just shadows from the angle of the pics.With CO installs on a 4Runner the top is pretty much idiot proof as the shock tower is flat on the bottom and the CO top mount is flat on top with 3 holes in the shock tower and 3 bolts that line up and go in the 3 threaded holes in the CO top mount and then you torque them down. Now the bottom that attaches to the LCA can be attached wrong as the big spacer needs to go to the front but I don't see where it would throw it off that much. Just would let the spring rub the sway bar when flexed if the bigger spacer was placed on the rear side.

 

[Jayhawk5G]

Why blame Icon? The left side of the vehicle is heavier:

Steering column
Battery
Gas tank

When installing something like this safety should be a priority. So it's not about blaming ICON, it's about determining if this situation is normal and safe.

I haven't ordered or installed anything by ICON but maybe a note in the instructions explaining that this is normal and due to distribution of weight in the vehicle would be helpful. OP may contact ICON and be told that this is normal, in that case no problem... or it could be that something needs adjusting or that they request he send it back for a replacement.

 

[KodeRush]

Did you measure the height of the flare from the center of the hub or from the floor? If you measured from the floor, are you are exactly the same tire pressure now as when you took your starting measurement? If you are measuring from the hub, you should be accurate in terms of comparable measurements.

I have a write up in my build thread on how to measure suspension height and overall vehicle height.

Okki

I took the measure from the upper edge of the rim to the flare bottom. It's similar to your write-up. It's a bit harder for me to find the hub centre.

The tape marks were they came set from Icon when installed and were they were set for the last year. I was low on the left by 3/4" before adjusting, IIRC it was 3 more tuns on the left.

Good to know, thanks for the info.

Looking closely, it appears that the right side shock flange is not properly seated in the shock tower. Even the right side bolt threads don't come through as far as the ones in the photo of the left side (could just be an optical illusion on my part).

Here are 2 pics of the coil before turned, i,e. ICON factory set. The bolts look OK.

If they are not seated properly he will get some massive clunking and those bolts will get excessive wear and eventually snap. I would deff look into that and inspect the bolts. While your there, check torque on UCA and sway bar link bolts. Its very common to come lose.

Good call on sway bar bolts torque, I'll double check them. UCA is tightened by the dealership, as it should be tightened after 4-wheel alignment.

How much was the lean with the Icons on and the collars set even before you started cranking that drivers side one down?Icon is probably going to ask you this too.
Something is not right.:shrug: I have mine set 1,maybe 2 turns more on the drivers side and I'm within a 1/4" lean with a full tank of gas. The more you crank it down the more you compress the spring and the higher the spring rate goes up so you kind of want to keep them pretty close.
Good call, it seems it's also safer to go with the similar spring loads than correcting the body lean.

Better to correct the lean with a 10mm trim spacer like from OME or Toytec that goes on top of the CO so the spring rate doesn't change ,just make sure the top 3 bolts are long enough and are of the same strength.But in your case that probably wouldn't work as they are so far off. If I were to guess, the springs were mixed up and one is the standard 650 in/lb and one is the optional 700 in/lb spring(pass side) .You didn't say how much lift you got from them but if I had mine set like your pass side it would be like an inch or so lift if it even goes that low . They should look like Qjake's for a 2 1/2 to 3 inch lift and pretty close to what mine look like.
I'll double check the spring loads with MetalTech and ICON later.

try swapping the springs from one side to the other first
:redbrick:Couldn't you bring this to me Sir? I really don't want to mess with it again after installed them.

as spring manufacturers have tolerances as sometimes they are different even though the same part number. I've seen alot of sports car springs have the exact spring rates printed on them and vary by 10-20lbs like these rear 600lb springs that I ordered from Klein Racing for my old BMW . One was 607 and one you see here was 622 so the 622 went on the drivers side. My stock springs had colored rings painted on them indicating which one had a higher spring rate and the drivers side is supposed to be higher.

Now the bottom that attaches to the LCA can be attached wrong as the big spacer needs to go to the front
This I did right, big spacer in the front on both side.
but I don't see where it would throw it off that much. Just would let the spring rub the sway bar when flexed if the bigger spacer was placed on the rear side.

I appreciate all the inputs, you guys are the best. I'll follow up after more inspection.
:cheers:

 

[rigtec]

I took the measure from the upper edge of the rim to the flare bottom...Here are 2 pics of the coil before turned, i,e. ICON factory set. The bolts look OK.
View attachment 85983View attachment 85984

:cheers:

The work you did, judging from these pics, looks very good and seem to eliminate any question of flange seating or mounting bolt torque. Still don't know how much extra height you're getting on the passenger side??

rig

 

[harper7]

I took the measure from the upper edge of the rim to the flare bottom. It's similar to your write-up. It's a bit harder for me to find the hub centre.

I appreciate all the inputs, you guys are the best. I'll follow up after more inspection.
:cheers:

After I slept on this and thought about it. You need to adjust the pass side to match the drivers side and do some measurements to see how much lean you have for a starting point.

Then adjust the drivers side down to try to correct it instead of backing off the pass side like you did. If you want less lift just back the drivers side off first and then match the pass. side and start from there.I'm thinking,the reason being is the lift can only go so low and when you backed the pass side you were past that point and just kept going when it wasn't even doing anything.I doubt Icon would mix up spring rates in a set but stranger things have happened. Also I would double check to make sure your rear springs correctly seated and installed.

When I was talking about swapping springs I was quoting from Sponge_bob's comments about his Pro Comp rear springs.

 

[mgrande]

Did I read correctly that the dealership charged you for a 4 wheel alignment?

 

[KodeRush]

Did I read correctly that the dealership charged you for a 4 wheel alignment?

Yes, I let them do the alignment as I had a discount on this.

 

[mgrande]

Yes, I let them do the alignment as I had a discount on this.

The reason I asked was because it seems the dealership is not being honest with you. There's no such thing as a 4 wheel alignment for your truck as the rear is a solid axle. Only the front can be aligned.

 

[KodeRush]

Now I think the problem is solved. :bravo:

The reason I think is because I lifted a little too high in the front, a bit over 3". Now I go down to about 2.5" lift, everything start to makes sense: 2 more turns on driver side, 5mm lean on driver side.

I also double checked the rear spring, make sure they have been sitting on the right spot and re-tighten the front sway bar bolt(36 ft/lb). Also visually checked other bolts, didn't find any issue.

So I'll call the problem solved, and will report back if any issue.

:thanks: for all the help. :cheers:

 

[KodeRush]

The reason I asked was because it seems the dealership is not being honest with you. There's no such thing as a 4 wheel alignment for your truck as the rear is a solid axle. Only the front can be aligned.

You are right. I think they just call that service 4 wheel alignment, there was not much to do in the rear.

This is the wheel alignment report: