Front Speakers - upgrade

drdevon

New member
With the search function broken (it just doesn't load results for me), and the Infinity speakers recommended in the last thread I saw no longer available, does anyone know where I could find good options to upgrade the speakers in the front of the cabin, under the windshield, for 2012 and 2014 SR5 4Runners?

Suggestions and links to other threads are welcomed and appreciated.


:dancin:
 
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With the search function broken (it just doesn't load results for me), and the Infinity speakers recommended in the last thread I saw no longer available, does anyone know where I could find good options to upgrade the speakers in the front of the cabin, under the windshield, for 2012 and 2014 SR5 4Runners?

Suggestions and links to other threads are welcomed and appreciated.


:dancin:

crutchfield.com ?
 
With the search function broken (it just doesn't load results for me), and the Infinity speakers recommended in the last thread I saw no longer available, does anyone know where I could find good options to upgrade the speakers in the front of the cabin, under the windshield, for 2012 and 2014 SR5 4Runners?

Suggestions and links to other threads are welcomed and appreciated.


:dancin:

I HIGHLY recommend these JL C2-350 for the dash! I got them for $60 off amazon. They fit perfect NO trimming required. Makes such a big difference in sound for a very small price!

Here's the link:

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-C2-350x...ie=UTF8&qid=1443550789&sr=1-1&keywords=jl+350
 
Ditto

Been looking for the same thing - I've seen a couple "I used these" posts, but nothing that has as much consensus as the Kappa's had. Also trying to avoid an amp so I'm hoping to find something as efficient as those were.
 
The JL C2-350's have an efficiency of 83 dB. Would it be better to have a more efficient speaker in the dash such as the polk db351 at 91 dB efficiency? Or does it not really matter?

I'm keeping my OEM head unit, and trying to decide on new dash and front door speakers.

Can't decide whether to go:
polk db351 / db691 6x9
JL C2-350 / alpine type r 6x9
polk db351 / alpine type r 6x9

Any thoughts? Crutchfield told me only tweeters will work in the dash so they haven't been very helpful.
 
I HIGHLY recommend these JL C2-350 for the dash! I got them for $60 off amazon. They fit perfect NO trimming required. Makes such a big difference in sound for a very small price!

Here's the link:

Amazon.com : Jl Audio C2-350x 3.5-Inch 2 Way Speakers : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics

did you install them yourself? is it easy to take off the covers? is it plug n play? i just moved and all my tools are a few states away at my mothers for now. so im wondering if i need to solder and cut wires. thanks!
 
does anyone know where I could find good options to upgrade the speakers in the front of the cabin, under the windshield, for 2012 and 2014 SR5 4Runners?

Suggestions and links to other threads are welcomed and appreciated.

Personally I would go with a component setup with the doors as well, But.....

If you don't want to spend the time and or money on an install and just want a simple upgrade I think putting a good set of tweeters in the dash would be better than a 3.5". The main difference all the people with upgraded dash speakers hear is the tweeter. I would want the best tweeter I could get in there, the Kappas everyone likes have good tweeters but not all 3.5" speakers do, and most of them are 1/2" tweeters.

Take a look at these Infinity tweeters. These have a crossover so no need to buy an extra high pass filter (bass blocker) and they will be easier to mount than a 3.5". They are also very cheap at $47.


Been looking for the same thing - I've seen a couple "I used these" posts, but nothing that has as much consensus as the Kappa's had. Also trying to avoid an amp so I'm hoping to find something as efficient as those were.

I think the main reason the Kappas were loud is because they are a 2ohm speaker combined with the fact that they have a high sensitivity rating. As are most infinitie/jbl car audio. Also most people I saw were wiring them in parallel which will bring the ohm load even lower.


Thanks! any need for a bass-blocker/crossover?

Yes if you plan on saving the OEM dash speaker. The blue connector on the bottom of the speaker has a high pass filter on it, to use it on an aftermarket speaker you have to remove the blue part from the speaker and unsoder the wires for the tweeter. There are many high pass filters for under $10 that can save you time.


The JL C2-350's have an efficiency of 83 dB. Would it be better to have a more efficient speaker in the dash such as the polk db351 at 91 dB efficiency? Or does it not really matter?

I'm keeping my OEM head unit, and trying to decide on new dash and front door speakers.

Can't decide whether to go:
polk db351 / db691 6x9
JL C2-350 / alpine type r 6x9
polk db351 / alpine type r 6x9

If you are going to replace the door speakers as well I really recommend getting a 2-way component speaker setup. It will sound much better. The only drawback is that they really need an amp to make them shine, and to get really loud. Two channel amps are cheap. You also get the added benefit of having a high pass filter so if you have a sub or plan on adding on in the future your music will sound even better.
 
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did you install them yourself? is it easy to take off the covers? is it plug n play? i just moved and all my tools are a few states away at my mothers for now. so im wondering if i need to solder and cut wires. thanks!

I know you were asking another member, but here is what you need:

- plastic panel remover
- 10mm socket (1/4 drive fits easier)
- 18 gauge wire (and something to strip it)
- Something to mount one side of the speaker

When I had a 3.5" in the dash I used some sheet metal I had in the garage and cut a small tab to mount the one side of the speaker that wont line up with the OEM holes. You could use a cutting board, wood, etc. Honestly it is a very easy install.

As for the harness its up to you. You can cut the factory harness and just use butt connectors. Or you can get some pins from an electronics store and put them into the OEM connector. Or just push the wire in the OEM connector like a few other have.
 
Don't you need to change out the head unit? I read somewhere that the Toyota head unit won't send clear signals to aftermarket speakers? I'll have to find that article. It pretty much suggested using Tacotunes's system to eliminate and clear up the crappy signal.
 
Don't you need to change out the head unit? I read somewhere that the Toyota head unit won't send clear signals to aftermarket speakers? I'll have to find that article. It pretty much suggested using Tacotunes's system to eliminate and clear up the crappy signal.

You don't need to change the head unit. I know a lot of people say the 2010-2013 base head unit sounds bad and the bass rolls of as the volume raises. I think the 2014-2015 Nav Head unit sounds clean and I know it doesn't alter the bass.

Tacotunes uses the Recurve EZQ which is basically a 6 channel line out converter with a 7 band EQ. It is plug and play and decently priced. $230 for the unit and $70 for the harness.

Audio Control has the DQ-61 which is almost the exact same thing but with timing alignment for $280 on amazon.

You don't actually need a DSP or a line out converter. Most amps have speaker level inputs that you can run straight off the factory head unit.
 

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