Going Bigger - 5th Gen Tire Fitment Guide

New BFG KO2 size

New 285/75R17 in KO2s

Maybe they will finally release KM3s....
 

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That rim is fine and will work. The weight of your truck is divided by 4, 4 wheels, one at each corner so you're more than safe with that rim. You will need a lift to fit the 285/70/17 of you can do some trimming and live with some rubbing, that choice is yours. I'm running a 295/70/17 on a 17x8 wheel with 4.5" BS and 0 offset. I'm lifted 3" and with 1* of camber I had rubbing on the lower inner edge of the front bumper but nothing on the body mount. With slight bumper trimming I have plenty of room.

Do you experience any rubbing in the wheel wells when the suspension is fully compressed?
 
Hi All

Does anyone know the wheel specs for a 2017 4runner TRD Offroad
I want to know if I can fit 285, 70, 17's

Thanks
Adrian
 

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You can however you will likely need a wheel spacer and will absolutely need a lift.

Not necessarily. You can run 285s on a stock suspension with a fender liner mod if you drop the front mudflaps and keep it on road. Did it for 6 months before I installed my lift. Rubbing in reverse at full lock on the body mount. A bmc could get you by without a lift.
 
Not necessarily. You can run 285s on a stock suspension with a fender liner mod if you drop the front mudflaps and keep it on road. Did it for 6 months before I installed my lift. Rubbing in reverse at full lock on the body mount. A bmc could get you by without a lift.

I did it also. No rubbing on the BM, only the front fender liner at lock in reverse. It all depends on what tire you run. I ran a KO2 which runs on the smaller side of the 285 range and I had a 17x8 wheel with 4.5" BS and 0 offset. I can tell you a 285 Ridge Grappler is quite a bit bigger than a 285 KO2 and would have rubber much worse. Anything can be done with enough trimming.
 

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This forum has been a huge help. Just want to provide some info for those looking to upgrade to TRD Pro Wheels and change tires. 1engineer did answer this for another member in an earlier post on this thread, but it took me a lot of time to find. Hope this is helpful for those looking to do something similar.

I added the TRD Wheels (Part # PTR20-35110-BK) and BFG KO2 tires (265/70/17 Load C "stock size"). There is no rubbing, which was one of my goals at this point. I have only had the tires a few days so I don't have much of an opinion on their performance, but I do like them. I also considered the Cooper ATP tires. At the end of the day, I decided that I would have always wished that I had given the BFG KO2 a try. If you do not want to risk rubbing, I would advise that you stay with 265/70/17 as opposed to 275/70/17.

If you are wondering why I am posting about this, it is because I am fairly new to all of this tire and wheel stuff and it took some time to find the details above. When I first saw the Tire Fitment Table I wasn't sure exactly what to do with it because the table is based on the stock wheels and I wanted the TRD wheels. I know the change in offset was 15mm to 4mm, but I wasn't exactly sure how that might change the table exactly. Anyway, I hope this helps someone else.
 
OK, so I am almost sure this has been covered somewhere but I want a little clarification. on the first page of this thread it shows 275/70/17s as green and 285/70/17s as yellow. I have a 2017 TRD Off Road which I believe is a 7.5" wide wheel.

I have no intention of ever getting a lift, or changing my wheels, some say it's just the fender liner and mud flaps that rub, which wouldn't bother me. it also seems that any larger size impacts the speedo gearing and a whole host of other things. my first inclination is to just play it safe with the 275s BUT (and it's a big butt) there seems to be quite a bit more available tires, brands types etc. or at least quite a few more options that I am interested in in the 285 tire size. So my question is if I run 285s instead of 275s is there more to it than mud flaps and fender lining? I don't want to rub anything at full lock that will wear the tires prematurely or damage the vehicle, same goes for the suspension being at full articulation, in my mind off road this could result in doing more harm than good. so if I push it to 285 on an otherwise stock rig... what's the worst that could happen?
 
You can however you will likely need a wheel spacer and will absolutely need a lift.



You should not use a wheel spacer. And a lift on an IFS suspension will not help at all.

They should fit on your stock wheels just fine. And you will likely have minor rubbing at the mudflap and/or front bumper inner liner. Both can be solved with a box cutter or heat gun and some minor adjustment of the trim pieces.

Wheel spacers will make both rub points worse. They will increase the scrub radius and increase the contact in both areas.

Lifts (unless they are either long travel or bracket lifts) do not change the geometry of the front suspension. They only change the static height. Not the range of motion. As a result they make no difference in tire fitment. If it fits with a normal 3" lift - it also fits without it.
 
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You should not use a wheel spacer. And a lift on an IFS suspension will not help at all.

They should fit on your stock wheels just fine. And you will likely have minor rubbing at the mudflap and/or front bumper inner liner. Both can be solved with a box cutter or heat gun and some minor adjustment of the trim pieces.

Wheel spacers will make both rub points worse. They will increase the scrub radius and increase the contact in both areas.

Lifts (unless they are either long travel or bracket lifts) do not change the geometry of the front suspension. They only change the static height. Not the range of motion. As a result they make no difference in tire fitment. If it fits with a normal 3" lift - it also fits without it.

So you're saying my 295/70/17 Ridge Grapplers would fit the same without my 3" lift? Incorrect, but OK. Yes wheel spacers do change rub points however he may have tire contact on the upper control arms at the ball joint on stock wheels. Wheel spacers WILL solve that problem. Like I said in my original post, I personally am not a fan of wheel spacers however some people absolutely love their stock wheels and refuse to switch them out. That or they just don't have the $ to spend on new wheels at the moment. I ran wheel spacers on my 2016 Tacoma and had no problems but they were always on the back of my mind. Only ran them because I loved the stock wheels but the 285s didn't clear the control arms. With the 3" lift under my 2016 4Runner, I can tell you with my 17x8 wheels, 4.5" back spacing, 0 offset, I have maybe 3/4" of clearance between the sidewall and ball joint area of my upper control arms. There would not be even close to enough room on a stock back spaced wheel. With that combo and my 3" lift, I have zero rubbing on the body mount, slight rubbing on the inner lowest edge of the front bumper, no rubbing issues anywhere else. Like you said, I simply moved the inner fender liner forward and trimmed the plastic with a blade.
 
So you're saying my 295/70/17 Ridge Grapplers would fit the same without my 3" lift? Incorrect, but OK. Yes wheel spacers do change rub points however he may have tire contact on the upper control arms at the ball joint on stock wheels. Wheel spacers WILL solve that problem. Like I said in my original post, I personally am not a fan of wheel spacers however some people absolutely love their stock wheels and refuse to switch them out. That or they just don't have the $ to spend on new wheels at the moment. I ran wheel spacers on my 2016 Tacoma and had no problems but they were always on the back of my mind. Only ran them because I loved the stock wheels but the 285s didn't clear the control arms. With the 3" lift under my 2016 4Runner, I can tell you with my 17x8 wheels, 4.5" back spacing, 0 offset, I have maybe 3/4" of clearance between the sidewall and ball joint area of my upper control arms. There would not be even close to enough room on a stock back spaced wheel. With that combo and my 3" lift, I have zero rubbing on the body mount, slight rubbing on the inner lowest edge of the front bumper, no rubbing issues anywhere else. Like you said, I simply moved the inner fender liner forward and trimmed the plastic with a blade.

Yes. Your tires would still fit with no lift. It's just geometry. You can argue with it all you want. It won't change. This isn't something with multiple solutions. Unless you change the control arms (read lower control arm primarily as it's near the spindle axis center) and/or the spindle - the range of motion is the same regardless of where you start (lift height). Unless you never flex the suspension. Even then it's just random luck that the slight change in caster would keep one or the other rub point from hitting. At stock height - the tires would not rub on the stock control arms either. Wheels with different offset are no different from spacers. They also make rubbing worse in the two spots that limit tire size. The only control arm I'm aware of with rub issues is the JBA arm. I have them. I have modified the arms to correct the rub with 275 tires on limited 20" wheels because they have slightly higher offset. JBA should re-design them to fit correctly - otherwise they work great. The Uniball tubular control arms I replaced did not rub with stock wheels and 285 tires or with 20" wheels and 275 tires. They would not rub with 295's either. Nor would stock arms.

There is a small chance of rubbing if he were to buy 20" wheels and put 285 tires on them. Otherwise with stock 17" tires - the OEM wheel with the OEM backspacing is the best wheel and the best backspacing to fit 285/70/17 tires with the least rub. There are no spacers that will make it better. The smallest spacer is 1.25 - and that will make it a lot worse.
 
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So you're saying my 295/70/17 Ridge Grapplers would fit the same without my 3" lift? Incorrect, but OK. Yes wheel spacers do change rub points however he may have tire contact on the upper control arms at the ball joint on stock wheels. Wheel spacers WILL solve that problem. Like I said in my original post, I personally am not a fan of wheel spacers however some people absolutely love their stock wheels and refuse to switch them out. That or they just don't have the $ to spend on new wheels at the moment. I ran wheel spacers on my 2016 Tacoma and had no problems but they were always on the back of my mind. Only ran them because I loved the stock wheels but the 285s didn't clear the control arms. With the 3" lift under my 2016 4Runner, I can tell you with my 17x8 wheels, 4.5" back spacing, 0 offset, I have maybe 3/4" of clearance between the sidewall and ball joint area of my upper control arms. There would not be even close to enough room on a stock back spaced wheel. With that combo and my 3" lift, I have zero rubbing on the body mount, slight rubbing on the inner lowest edge of the front bumper, no rubbing issues anywhere else. Like you said, I simply moved the inner fender liner forward and trimmed the plastic with a blade.
Not incorrect. You lift it 3", your suspension compresses 3" when you go over a hill, your suspension winds up where it was before the lift. Now, if you want to leave your truck in the driveway and not move it, lifting only to fit big tires is just fine.

Wheel spacers will always be detrimental to fitting bigger tires. Geometry.
 
so, I didn't mean to start a controversy, in summary I will be fine with the 285 tires, the rubbing will be fixable with a box cutter? mud flaps etc???? is this correct?
 
You're both very wrong. Do it, prove me wrong. My 285's rubbed before lift, not after. There's no way in hell my 295s would fit stock and have any kind of up travel at all going down the road with out mashing into everything.
 
gonna switch out to TRD wheels.....do 275s rub on them? I know the offset is different than my wheels...Thanks in advance.
 
Hi guys! Hope someone can help me out, Read through half the thread and couldn't find my answer.

Was wondering how large a spare I can carry in the stock space given underneath?

I have Ridge Grapplers 275/70/18. I know I don't need an identical rim and tire, so any suggestions on saving some money on a spare that will fit underneath and still the same size to drive around in until replaced?

Thanks!
 
Well assuming your spare is 265/75/18 ? I know my 285/70/17 fits , would eye ball test with another wheel & tire !

my spare is the stock 17". I switched to 18's. Or maybe keep the spare rim and get 295 tire for it? Does that logic work as it's .11 larger? Just figuring out my options and where I can save as well on a spare
 
Ah well IMO get a decent wheel & tire because the chance of needing are fairly slim , but i would say keep it within 1 size of what you're running ! So my spare is a Brig 285 but have Coopers atp on a 17x7.5 wheel matching wheel not tire ! If that makes any sense ?
 

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