Guess what I did

[rdruss]

That's called 'neglect'.

 

[Previologist]

That's called 'neglect'.

How did you guess? Do you own a 3rd Gen BTW or did you just drop by to leave that pearl of wisdom?

The facts: I drove my 4runner long after my brakes started grinding badly. Since I planned to replace the rotors next time I do brakes, and its way too bloody cold to do them in the winter, and I don't drive my rust free other Toyota in the winter because I want it to remain rust free, I just kept driving.

 

[Previologist]

I'm getting frustrated! I replaced my rubber hose and the metal line to caliper with a copper alloy line. Somehow, and I swear it wasn't me, the first couple of threads on the line and caliper got buggered, so I tossed the line and tapped just the first couple threads on the caliper. I had a helluva time getting any of the new connections to seal but finally got them all except at the caliper. I find it hard to believe that just the first couple of threads are causing it, but welcome any ideas that don't include a new caliper. I'm about to go buy my 3rd copper alloy line....and they aren't cheap.

 

[Previologist]

So I guess my implied question wasn't obvious enough. The brake line seals at the flare, right? So the leak must be because the flared end of the brake line is buggered, right, not because the first couple threads on the caliper aren't perfect, right? I'm not terribly experienced with brake lines, but am going to pull it off and look at the flare in the morning.

 

[AuSeeker]

So I guess my implied question wasn't obvious enough. The brake line seals at the flare, right? So the leak must be because the flared end of the brake line is buggered, right, not because the first couple threads on the caliper aren't perfect, right? I'm not terribly experienced with brake lines, but am going to pull it off and look at the flare in the morning.

Yes it's the flare that seals, the "nut"/threaded part just applies pressure for it to seal.
There is however different types/angles of flares, but if some of them sealed it's most likely not the issues.

 

[Previologist]

Yes it's the flare that seals, the "nut"/threaded part just applies pressure for it to seal.
There is however different types/angles of flares, but if some of them sealed it's most likely not the issues.

I had a helluva time getting any of them to seal, and I know I bought the right type.I'm guessing I just overtightened or some other inexperienced user error. I will waste another $15 for my 3rd try and will make sure to undertighten at first.

 

[Previologist]

Buying a 3rd line I think did the trick. I compared the flare to the line that is currently installed and they look identical. So I figured the problem is me. I simply retightened it, but not very tight. Then I pumped the brakes a few times and tightened it a tiny bit more each time. After a couple rounds of that, it seems to have stopped leaking.

 

[gomiami]

Buying a 3rd line I think did the trick. I compared the flare to the line that is currently installed and they look identical. So I figured the problem is me. I simply retightened it, but not very tight. Then I pumped the brakes a few times and tightened it a tiny bit more each time. After a couple rounds of that, it seems to have stopped leaking.

Been there and done that with brakes. I was going to return a caliper that I thought had defective threads and, after walking away from the repair for a day, came to realize that the leaking banjo bolt connection was all me. I got out my torque wrench and the spec was almost another quarter turn from what I thought should have been correct for the soft copper gaskets.

Thousands of miles later, it's bone dry.

 

[brillo_76]

I have been building my old brake lines using nickel copper and stainless steel nuts for several years now. Those I only change once. As I have replaced oem lines twice before on rigs and that gets old really quick.. The life in the rust belt. :-(