Hi-desert Cheapskate build thread

Picked up an RCI transfer case skid plate on their Black Friday sale. Left work early today and got it installed. I’m happy that it works almost seamless with my homemade transmission skid plate.
 
I’ve done a shitty job keeping track of maintenance and build stuff lately but in the past month I’ve had to replace the battery. Picked up an EverStart group 27f AGM for sub $200. Been trying to figure out why the 4lo light comes on sometimes when doing 65-70mph and passing or downshifting. 4WD system works fine and no codes come up on my ScanGauge.

Replaced the transmission filter, gasket and pan bolts. Added some Lucas transmission treatment and refilled with Maxlife ATF at 164070. Filter and magnets were pretty dirty.

Installed a center console secret compartment that I got for Christmas.
Amazon.com

RCI t-case skid crossmember seemed to keep slipping down as there was only one bolt on each side horizontal into the frame that hold it in place. Installed some rivnuts in the bottom of the frame and enlarged the two small holes on the bottom of the crossmember then bolted it in with two extra 8mm bolts. Seems super stout now.

Rear brakes are making noise and the t-case output seal is leaking so I have parts on the way to replace those things in the next week or so.
 

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Replaced the rear rotors and pads with a Powerstop kit. Replaced the rear upper control arms with a pair from Freedom Offroad. We’ll see how they do. Not seeing a whole of reviews or info out there on these. Seem pretty good.
 

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Installed some GX bump stops in the rear. Still had stock bumps and they’re hard as a rock.
 

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Picked up an EverStart group 27f AGM for sub $200.

Have you done a voltage mod to increase the alternator output? These trucks only output ~13.6v after warmed up, which is insufficient for the long term health of an AGM battery.

Seems to be common knowledge around here, but I had no idea before putting an AGM battery in my car. After about a month, I had terrible electrical issues that went away when I swapped the battery back to lead acid. Talked about those problems here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3843420-post14.html
 
Have you done a voltage mod to increase the alternator output? These trucks only output ~13.6v after warmed up, which is insufficient for the long term health of an AGM battery.

Seems to be common knowledge around here, but I had no idea before putting an AGM battery in my car. After about a month, I had terrible electrical issues that went away when I swapped the battery back to lead acid. Talked about those problems here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3843420-post14.html

I haven’t yet but I do have the Dirty Parts AVB in my shopping list. I’m reminded of the voltage on my ScanGauge every time I drive my truck. No issues so far but it’s only been like two months.
 
Have you done a voltage mod to increase the alternator output? These trucks only output ~13.6v after warmed up, which is insufficient for the long term health of an AGM battery.

Seems to be common knowledge around here, but I had no idea before putting an AGM battery in my car. After about a month, I had terrible electrical issues that went away when I swapped the battery back to lead acid. Talked about those problems here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3843420-post14.html

You can grab a Ford or GM diode from O'reilly's or AutoZone (seriously just ask for a diode) and throw it in the ALT-S socket fused piggyback and you'd be good to go.
 
So within the last week and a half or so I’ve done the GM diode mod, switched over to Falken Wildpeaks done some wheeling in the little bit of snow we got in our local mountains and just today I ordered my North West Trail Innovations kit bumper. Super stoked to start that build.
 

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Got a set of Smittybilt bumpers for a Wrangler for free. Sold the rear for fifty bucks, installed the front one on the 4Runner. I removed the lower grille opening and cut the lower center section of the bumper out. Mounted it directly to the crash bar using 1/2” grade 8 bolts.
Now removed

Made an aluminum filler plate to help protect the radiator out of 3/16” aluminum sheet I got for free.

how hard was it to mount the wrangler bumper as push bar??
 
how hard was it to mount the wrangler bumper as push bar??

Not too difficult. I drilled eight holes in the crash bar and used long 1/2” grade 8 bolts like 6” or 7” long to bolt it up. The sides of the wrangler bumper that bolted to the sides of the frame had to be cut back a little bit and the lower tabs where the light pods would mount had to be removed but no other mods had to be done to it.r
 
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Not really sure why I pulled the trigger on doing this mod. If anything it makes room for a second battery and on board air. Kind of regret it but oh well. Heard about the cowl “snorkel” intake mod that Tacoma guys had done as well as some 4Runner owners.

Used some 3” schedule 40 pvc pipe and my factory intake tube which I cut. Cut the firewall using a hole saw. Had some old door edge molding that I used around the cut, it’s very squeaky.

Hey why don't you like this? Any issues with it since fixing squeak?
 
how hard was it to mount the wrangler bumper as push bar??

Sorry it took so long to reply, been really busy lately. It wasn’t difficult to mount the Smittybilt tube bumper. I drilled 8 holes through the factory metal crash bar and bolted it through using 1/2” grade 8 bolts
 
Hey why don't you like this? Any issues with it since fixing squeak?

I found a good soft rubber seal and there’s no more squeak which is good. I just wish I’d have planned this out a little better as far as where I drilled through the firewall. I wish I’d have moved it outward towards the corner and built a turndown for the inlet. Otherwise it’s good, air filter stays a lot cleaner than it used to.
 
Been a while without any significant upgrade till today. I’ve been putting a lot of time and money into my 1986 Suzuki Samurai JX lately. I’ve been concerned about transmission temps lately after the last couple outings so I added an external cooler today. I wanted to mount it with the iconicfabrication mount but didn’t have the extra to do that right now. Mounted it the standard way with the supplied zip ties through the condenser.
I’ll follow up after a few more test runs.

Another thing I’ve been working on is cutting down my rock sliders as they sat too wide and building new frame plates cause I bent them pretty bad and was tearing the spreaders away from the plates. I originally built them when I had -12 wheels and now with 0 backspace they stuck out too far. I cut them back about 2” and bought new 3/16 plate. I also plan to add a fourth spreader bar since the kit only came with three per side.
 

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It’s been a while without any updates but a few things have happened that are noteworthy. During a trip to Southern Utah over the Labor Day weekend, I ended up busting out the rear driver side quarter window when I slipped into an embankment on a trail that was severely washed out. I opted to fabricate a panel out of 3/16 UHMW sheet and bolted in with m4 hardware. I ordered an Orange Boxx Fab molle panel for the interior and I’m pretty happy with all things considered.

My 4Lo light still illuminates when climbing grades or passing (downshifting) at highway speed and I still haven’t been able to put my finger on the cause of that issue. Can’t find any codes with my scan tool so kinda baffled because everything still seems to work fine. Almost have the misses convinced that a manual transfer case is the fix for this ;)
 

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