HID Install for 2006 4Ruunner
- Thread starter 4RunnerRon
- Start date
4RunnerRon
New member
1MZ-V8 said:
I just got back from a weekend of white water rafting and saw your issue has resolved itself. I figured it wouldn't be the ballast grounding itself because it's all enclosed and the outer casing shouldn't have any electrical connection at all.
By the way, how is your headlight positioning now that you have the new bulbs in? I noticed when I did mine that the aiming of the beams was not perfect. Perhaps the bulb is not perfectly straight the way it's connected to the H11 base? I dunno, but I adjusted the height on both and I now have to figure out how to get to the horizontal adjuster.
T4Runner06 said:
When I install my kit, I do not have this connector open, it is connected to the hid kits. When I was installing my kit I was using your instructions and I was scratching my head on how you have an open connector and that I do not.
As for the aming mine seem to line up perfectly, so I do not have to make adjustment. These headlight are awesome so damn bright. I'm loving it.
4RunnerRon
New member
1MZ-V8 said:
The factory connector on the driver side should be the only one connected to the HID harness. This one is only used for triggering the system on and off, not for sending power to any bulbs (since the factory bulbs are gone). The HID kit has wires crossing from the driver side over to the passenger side and those handle everything for the pass. headlight. The factory connector on that side should be hanging free and unconnected to anything.
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Uneek
Super Moderator
1MZ-V8,
The connector T4Runner06 is referring to, is the stock passenger headlight plug that goes to the halogen bulb (which he has taped up). I'm not sure if Xenon Depot has changed their wiring harness kit, but the kit I got and most likely T4Runner06's only has three plugs/sockets total. Two will go to the HID ballasts and one is from the factory headlight wiring. If they changed their wiring harness kit, then maybe it will allow both sides of the headlight to be plugged in. But as T4Runner06 said, it wouldn't matter or hurt anything, because the factory headlight wiring is only used to trigger the HIDs via the relay. The hookup to the battery (fused postive) and ground wire provide the power.
Hope this helps.
The connector T4Runner06 is referring to, is the stock passenger headlight plug that goes to the halogen bulb (which he has taped up). I'm not sure if Xenon Depot has changed their wiring harness kit, but the kit I got and most likely T4Runner06's only has three plugs/sockets total. Two will go to the HID ballasts and one is from the factory headlight wiring. If they changed their wiring harness kit, then maybe it will allow both sides of the headlight to be plugged in. But as T4Runner06 said, it wouldn't matter or hurt anything, because the factory headlight wiring is only used to trigger the HIDs via the relay. The hookup to the battery (fused postive) and ground wire provide the power.
Hope this helps.
Uneek
Super Moderator
Re: Information about the installation
T4Runner06 mounted the passenger side (right from inside the truck) on the power steering bracket and the driver side (left) on fender wall behind the headlight and battery. You can't see the driver side ballast once the battery is put back into its spot.
Grantoja said:
T4Runner06 mounted the passenger side (right from inside the truck) on the power steering bracket and the driver side (left) on fender wall behind the headlight and battery. You can't see the driver side ballast once the battery is put back into its spot.
Wow, awesome post T4runner06, I looked hard for this type of mod and you described it step by step perfectly!!
Can I ask a question about the DRL? I looked for something, but wasn't able to find out, but does anyone know if this affects the DRL's? I'd like to keep them but should I do anything to them or will they turn on normally along with the HID's?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Can I ask a question about the DRL? I looked for something, but wasn't able to find out, but does anyone know if this affects the DRL's? I'd like to keep them but should I do anything to them or will they turn on normally along with the HID's?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Uneek
Super Moderator
gemajean said:
I wouldn't worry about the DRLs at all. I've been told the '06 DRLs are amber, so they're just the front parking lights lit up. The 4Runner has seperate high and low beams, so the DRLs are not affected even if it were to use half powered high beams. HIDs are not recommended for high beam, unless they are bi-xenon because when flashing it takes a couple seconds for the HIDs to light up, also not good for the longevity of the ballast and ignitor.
4RunnerRon
New member
1MZ-V8 said:
In theory, if all your electrical connections are correct and tight, the only other failure would be from faulty components. I would check with xenondepot and ask them which part is most common for the type of failure you're having. If it's only on the one side, I would guess the culprit could be a bad bulb, ballast, or ignitor.
T4Runner06 said:
Its seems like my wiring harness is different then yours,
I have two Fuses and two of those white connector. remember i was said how come you didn't connect one side of the headlight with that connector? only if the freaking rain stop here so i can trouble shoot it.
This kit seems quite odd to me. I had the McCulloch kit on my E34 M5 and it took 5 minutes to install (and most of the time was spent finding a creative and cool place for the components. There are no relays or any need to drag wires across the engine compartment. Each assembly plugs into the appropriate stock bulb harness and is powered and triggered from it.
Also, before I changed the headlights to projectors on the M5, I had the HID's in freeform housings. The difference is not efficiency. You see better with freeform housings. The difference is what other drivers see - either a car with cool looking lights or the tree they're about to hit after being blinded. With the brightness of HIDs you need a projector to focus the beam to have a pronounced cutoff. HOWEVER, with the McCullochs I was still able to aim the lights and have a significant enough cutoff that it was acceptable. I honestly wished I never made the headlight swap because the light pattern was so much nicer. It wasn't focussed on two blotches infront of the car but rather lit up the whole world evenly.
By the way, retrofitting HID's in a car that did not come with them stock is against the law (in Ontario it was anyway, here in BC it probably is too as it is in the US). They're supposed to be for "offroading purposes only", unless you retrofit an HID assembly designed by the manufacturer for your car (not just the housings, the full assembly). But... I won't tell if you don't.
Anyway, I found this thread after searching for what you guys have done xenon wise. I got my truck last December and I want to put HID's in it. I don't think I'll be going with this solution, too convoluted and more points of failure (a relay, an open connection...).
Also, before I changed the headlights to projectors on the M5, I had the HID's in freeform housings. The difference is not efficiency. You see better with freeform housings. The difference is what other drivers see - either a car with cool looking lights or the tree they're about to hit after being blinded. With the brightness of HIDs you need a projector to focus the beam to have a pronounced cutoff. HOWEVER, with the McCullochs I was still able to aim the lights and have a significant enough cutoff that it was acceptable. I honestly wished I never made the headlight swap because the light pattern was so much nicer. It wasn't focussed on two blotches infront of the car but rather lit up the whole world evenly.
By the way, retrofitting HID's in a car that did not come with them stock is against the law (in Ontario it was anyway, here in BC it probably is too as it is in the US). They're supposed to be for "offroading purposes only", unless you retrofit an HID assembly designed by the manufacturer for your car (not just the housings, the full assembly). But... I won't tell if you don't.
Anyway, I found this thread after searching for what you guys have done xenon wise. I got my truck last December and I want to put HID's in it. I don't think I'll be going with this solution, too convoluted and more points of failure (a relay, an open connection...).
Uneek
Super Moderator
BigD said:
The kit you have did not have a wiring harness. While there are people who did not use a harness to power their ballasts and HIDs without any problems yet, the harness is a precautionary measure. HIDs when on and constantly running draws 35 watts, significantly lower than Halogens at 55 watts. But the initial start up of HIDs is much higher than the 55 watts Halogens constantly draw. Over time the higher draw will cause the wires to heat up and eventually the wire insulation will brittle or melt. If you're not using a wiring harness, there's no immediate danger if it hasn't already melted, but in the long run, it's better to use one. 9006 Halogen have the same plug style as HID ballasts.
You see better with freeform housings because the light is scattered which increases glare. However, reflectors that were designed for HIDs will focus the light and beam pattern minimizing glare and putting light where it belongs.
Retrofitting is the best way to have HIDs . When retrofitting, the entire projector is placed inside the existing (non-HID equipped) vehicle headlight assembly, so all the components, reflector, projector and capsules are designed for HIDs. I think what you're referring to as illegal are rebased kits. Rebased kits in Halogen reflectors tend of have a lot of glare, but when used in Halogen projector the glare is reduced a lot.
T4Runner06 is using a Xenon Depot kit. XD's kit is one of the best kits available and there are plenty of people that have been using an XD kit without any problems.
Uneek said:
Do you have any figures for the current draw on startup? I find it surprizing that it will fry wires rated for halogen bulbs (which must be a solid 4-5 amps a pop, and have a very high peak current draw while the filament is cold and has low resistance). The fuse is a different matter, but since all this kit has is a "wiring harness" and not a capacitor to buffer the current draw, if it doesn't blow the fuse then a non-harnessed kit won't either.
It does sound like an interesting idea though, has anyone tried to install two relays/harnesses, so you don't have to string any wires across the engine comp?
As far as reliability, I don't know anyone that had problems with the McCulloch kits. The only problem I've heard of with HID retrofits in general was a guy that tried to retrofit a MarkVIII assembly into a 3 series and melted the housings. The only oddity I ever saw was sometimes the right HID wouldn't fire on the first try on a very cold day because the battery wasn't awake yet.
Glare or not, freeform housings distribute the light much more evenly and as such the higher light output creates a far more drammatic difference, than simply brighter center patches (exaggerating obviously). In general, I notice the kit bulbs are better suited for such application. First they don't melt housings, because they are designed to sit in deeper in the housing and as a result (or more likely, a cause) the hot spot is roughly in the same place as it was with the halogen - so I did actually see a rather pronounced cutoff, and managed to aim the lights to stock spec. I've never had anyone complain during our night cruises, I could even see the cutoff on people's trunks. It wasn't a sharp line as with a projector but it was there. A friend that helped me get them, put them into his Outback, with huge freeform lights like our 4Runners and he also saw the same result... I'm very tempted to try the same setup again.
As far as legality, if the entire assembly is not OEM, it is illegal, even if the housing is a projector type (ie '06 runners). But in reality as long as you are not blinding people in a civic or some old rustbucket, police will assume that they are OEM.
Last edited:
Uneek
Super Moderator
There's a graph and the current draw. Maybe I didn't explain it properly or using the incorrect terms (forgotten what I learned in physics with amps, watts, volts, etc.).
http://faqlight.carpassion.info/headlamp-harness.html
The wire harness in the XD kit connects to the battery and is only plugged to factory headlight wires to activate the relay which turns the HIDs on and off.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying McCullough kits are bad or anything. When I use to frequent sport bike forums, their kits are used by many bikers as well. I'm not affiliated with Xenon Depot either, but just saying that there have been a lot people who got kits through them and have nothing but good things to say about them. I'm sure a few who have bought cheap generic Taiwan kits off eBay haven't had problems either.
As far as the melting goes, I'm not sure what went wrong with the Mark VIII/3 series retrofit since HIDs running are 35 watts. Most melting headlights I've heard are people using super white 100 watt halogen bulbs that claim the HID look/performance.
Maybe we're using the same terms, but we're trying to talk about two different things. HIDs in a Halogen reflector will be much brighter than a HIDs in a reflector designed for HID. HIDs are about 3x's brighter than Halogens and Halogen reflectors were designed to maximize the available light output. So when HIDs are matched up Halogen reflector, the brightness of HIDs is now about 3x's brighter as well.
Here's some good information about HIDs and Halogens.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html
In the end if glare is minimized making it less distracting for other drivers, it'll keep all of us safer on the road. I've seen some cars, especially those with the reflector headlights and textured lenses with HIDs where the glare on those are not just distracting, but blinding.
I'm going to go the same route as T4Runner06 and other '06 owners who have used rebased kits. The glare is minimized with the projectors and it's probably something I think I can get away with safely.
http://faqlight.carpassion.info/headlamp-harness.html
The wire harness in the XD kit connects to the battery and is only plugged to factory headlight wires to activate the relay which turns the HIDs on and off.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying McCullough kits are bad or anything. When I use to frequent sport bike forums, their kits are used by many bikers as well. I'm not affiliated with Xenon Depot either, but just saying that there have been a lot people who got kits through them and have nothing but good things to say about them. I'm sure a few who have bought cheap generic Taiwan kits off eBay haven't had problems either.
As far as the melting goes, I'm not sure what went wrong with the Mark VIII/3 series retrofit since HIDs running are 35 watts. Most melting headlights I've heard are people using super white 100 watt halogen bulbs that claim the HID look/performance.
Maybe we're using the same terms, but we're trying to talk about two different things. HIDs in a Halogen reflector will be much brighter than a HIDs in a reflector designed for HID. HIDs are about 3x's brighter than Halogens and Halogen reflectors were designed to maximize the available light output. So when HIDs are matched up Halogen reflector, the brightness of HIDs is now about 3x's brighter as well.
Here's some good information about HIDs and Halogens.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html
In the end if glare is minimized making it less distracting for other drivers, it'll keep all of us safer on the road. I've seen some cars, especially those with the reflector headlights and textured lenses with HIDs where the glare on those are not just distracting, but blinding.
I'm going to go the same route as T4Runner06 and other '06 owners who have used rebased kits. The glare is minimized with the projectors and it's probably something I think I can get away with safely.
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