Hilux 167 snorkel for 3rd gens
- Thread starter NJCatalana
- Start date
Kryptoroxx
New member
As long as you need to. Honestly I took about 2 or 3 as well. But I went back and waterproofed everything for a final install a few weeks later. That took just as long.
Labrum777
New member
Feedback from my install
Thought I'd give some feedback following my install which was the BIGGEST PITA.
First... I'm fairly mechanically inclined and this project took me WAY longer than I expected. I like to do most of my repairs myself, but make sure you give yourself plenty of time. I ran out of daylight and then it started raining on me :rain:.
• Do yourself a favor and buy some of the plugs they mentioned earlier for the mud shield. You'll need them.
• The 3 5/8 saw hole makes for a really tight fit. You'll likely need to clean the hole out a bit with a regular drill bit for a little more clearance.
• don't be shy about using a little bigger drill bit for the bolt holes. The washers from my amazon kit were huge and the little bigger bolt holes allowed me to maneuver the snorkel easier (and without damage to the threads of the bolts).
• I used a can of spray paint to paint the holes I had made... hopefully to provide a little rust protection. Doesn't have to be pretty... just have a rag handy to snag any drips... it'll all get covered by the snorkel anyways so no need to be perfect.
• For the snorkel attachment on the A-pillar... don't drill your holes for the A-pillar until the snorkel has been fully tightened down to the body of the vehicle. My holes came out about 1/8 of an inch off and the snorkel had to flex a bit to get it mounted. (And definitely use the rivets. For those that haven't used a riveter, keep pumping the riveter until the stem fully snaps off. This is how you know the rivets have secured fully to the sheet metal and snorkel bracket).
• I tried to install the rubber elbow onto the snorkel before feeding it through the fender and that didn't work for me. I had two hangers inside it which made it difficult for it to flex which resulted in having to install the rubber elbow inside the fender like everyone else.
• This was a helpful tip mentioned earlier: **use a long screw driver to pry the end of the snorkel away form the fender so that its easier to slide on the rubber tube.**
• For the rubber piece to the air box... use a little grease or motor oil to lube the end of the rubber. Vice grips on the bottom, a small screw driver, and a boat load of patience finally resulted in it seating properly. An extra set of hands would've helped tremendously, but unfortunately I didn't have that option (or a heat gun for that matter... tried the wife's blow dryer but not sure it helped much).
• Cheapest place to buy the tools was harbor freight for the mandrel ($10), Amazon ($10) for the hole saw and Home Depot for the Riveter ($10)
Thanks to everyone that's contributed to this thread! :beer:
Thought I'd give some feedback following my install which was the BIGGEST PITA.
First... I'm fairly mechanically inclined and this project took me WAY longer than I expected. I like to do most of my repairs myself, but make sure you give yourself plenty of time. I ran out of daylight and then it started raining on me :rain:.
• Do yourself a favor and buy some of the plugs they mentioned earlier for the mud shield. You'll need them.
• The 3 5/8 saw hole makes for a really tight fit. You'll likely need to clean the hole out a bit with a regular drill bit for a little more clearance.
• don't be shy about using a little bigger drill bit for the bolt holes. The washers from my amazon kit were huge and the little bigger bolt holes allowed me to maneuver the snorkel easier (and without damage to the threads of the bolts).
• I used a can of spray paint to paint the holes I had made... hopefully to provide a little rust protection. Doesn't have to be pretty... just have a rag handy to snag any drips... it'll all get covered by the snorkel anyways so no need to be perfect.
• For the snorkel attachment on the A-pillar... don't drill your holes for the A-pillar until the snorkel has been fully tightened down to the body of the vehicle. My holes came out about 1/8 of an inch off and the snorkel had to flex a bit to get it mounted. (And definitely use the rivets. For those that haven't used a riveter, keep pumping the riveter until the stem fully snaps off. This is how you know the rivets have secured fully to the sheet metal and snorkel bracket).
• I tried to install the rubber elbow onto the snorkel before feeding it through the fender and that didn't work for me. I had two hangers inside it which made it difficult for it to flex which resulted in having to install the rubber elbow inside the fender like everyone else.
• This was a helpful tip mentioned earlier: **use a long screw driver to pry the end of the snorkel away form the fender so that its easier to slide on the rubber tube.**
• For the rubber piece to the air box... use a little grease or motor oil to lube the end of the rubber. Vice grips on the bottom, a small screw driver, and a boat load of patience finally resulted in it seating properly. An extra set of hands would've helped tremendously, but unfortunately I didn't have that option (or a heat gun for that matter... tried the wife's blow dryer but not sure it helped much).
• Cheapest place to buy the tools was harbor freight for the mandrel ($10), Amazon ($10) for the hole saw and Home Depot for the Riveter ($10)
Thanks to everyone that's contributed to this thread! :beer:
Attachments
infamousRNR
Senior Member
I'm hoping someone has some tools for my snorkel install...
tools needed:
- riveting tool with M5 adapter ( just like original post picture )
- a 3 5/8 hole saw to drill the BIG hole
. . . .
tools needed:
- riveting tool with M5 adapter ( just like original post picture )
- a 3 5/8 hole saw to drill the BIG hole
. . . .
Hi All,
I am interested in doing this mod. However, I installed Side Marker lights on the fender. Can someone please measure the distance from the lowest part of the antenna mount to the lowest part of the snorkel. As attached.
I do not have the paper template and would like to know if the snorkel will clear the side marker lights.
The pic is rendered from Zig553 post. Hope you do not mind me using as reference.
Thanks,
Rod
I am interested in doing this mod. However, I installed Side Marker lights on the fender. Can someone please measure the distance from the lowest part of the antenna mount to the lowest part of the snorkel. As attached.
I do not have the paper template and would like to know if the snorkel will clear the side marker lights.
The pic is rendered from Zig553 post. Hope you do not mind me using as reference.
Thanks,
Rod
Attachments
zig553
New member
Hi, no problem about using my pic. Did you need a template? I still have it somewhere, I could probably just mail you mine.
Jaysen4runner
New member
2 people should run arb snorkels so I can sell my taco intake tubes. Good write up and pics! The holes on my template were off so deff triple check before you drill
Is there any gap between fender and snorkel?
Asaspades93
New member
There is a tiny gap in the crease of the body line, probably could be fixed with a little adjusting. I have since broke a lbj which collapsed the truck onto that fender as well as got friendly with trees so it's not the prettiest thing. I'll snag a pic if I can today
Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk
Jaysen4runner
New member
Thank you, really appreciate you taking the time to take some pics!
T4R3prospect
Junior Member
I want one! Has anyone run the intake (top) backwards? It seems like it would catch a ton of branches forward like that. No one having that problem?
Asaspades93
New member
Sorry for the delay, I can fit about a quarter of my index nail between the body and snorkel
As for the post above, I turn the head around in heavy wet snow, I remember that with the head facing forward you'll get more air into the engine, but not a huge difference with n/a
Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk
Jaysen4runner
New member
Sorry for the delay, I can fit about a quarter of my index nail between the body and snorkel
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160413/43c9171bff96da6a96a1432b08c0ddac.jpg[/IMG
As for the post above, I turn the head around in heavy wet snow, I remember that with the head facing forward you'll get more air into the engine, but not a huge difference with n/a
Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
No problem Thank you for sharing. Am thinking about it but make just end up with the tacoma instead!
Buckshot669
New member
Thanks
Thanks for the write up!!!!
I installed mine last week.
For future reference I think the 5 pins are so you can rivet the windshield bracket onto the truck. That's what I did instead of the self tapping screws.
Thanks for the write up!!!!
I installed mine last week.
For future reference I think the 5 pins are so you can rivet the windshield bracket onto the truck. That's what I did instead of the self tapping screws.
Buckshot669
New member
psraff
New member
Got mine done today!
Used 8AWG Bare Copper to correct the vacuum.
This is how much the template is off.
Had to reinstall my Stock Intake. Used my K&N Tube for the ISR Mod.
Getting to the last two posts are a PITA!!!! I used silicone to stick everything together so I could get it with just the tips of my fingers. After it was started then I could get a wrench on it.
Used 8AWG Bare Copper to correct the vacuum.
This is how much the template is off.
Had to reinstall my Stock Intake. Used my K&N Tube for the ISR Mod.
Getting to the last two posts are a PITA!!!! I used silicone to stick everything together so I could get it with just the tips of my fingers. After it was started then I could get a wrench on it.
Last edited:
Scramble
New member
It's $132.59 today.
Scramble
New member
That was my first thought. All of those holes have to be deburred, primed & painted or your fender will start rusting away.
psraff
New member
Done, Done, and Done. I used some Por15 on all the holes, front and back. Also used rubber washers on the back side.
Scramble
New member
You're supposed to apply Por15 to rusted metal, not bare metal.
Similar threads
