Hitch Mounted Bike Rack Question

desertred

Member
I've search past threads concerning the different options for the subject racks and have a question. In many of the pictures posted in those threads, it appears that the bikes (or portions of them) extend to or above the roof line of your 5th gens. Is this the case, or are the angles at which the pictures were taken a bit deceiving? I am looking for a hitch mounted rack in which the mounted bikes will fit comfortably underneath overhanging canoes and be worry free of contact from an occasional "bounce". What racks seem to keep the bikes mounted below the roof line? For reference, I'm talking about mountain bikes with up to 150mm travel forks.
 
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I have a Thule Vertex (I think) swing away bike carrier. The bikes rest on their top tube and don't come near the roof level of the truck. I may do some mountain biking Wednesday, I'll take some pics if I do.
 
I bought my parents a Thule hitch mount bike rack for their Pilot which I often use as well. When installed on either of them, the bikes don't come up over the roof lines.
 
I'm just starting a search myself, as my 15+ yr old SportRack is starting to break down and wont accommodate 29" MTB (which will be my next set of new wheels).

The only contribution I would offer to the discussion is to advocate a rack that supports the bike from the bottom, under the tires. Several reasons: flexibility (full suspension and even some hybrid bike frames make the bar-supported rack style difficult or even impossible to use), speed/ease of use (tire mount systems generally load and secure the bike faster in my experience), and low position (to address your kayak concern).

Thule, Yakima, and several others all make nice products that fit this description. Find one that fits your usage requirements and checkbook, and you should be all set. When you get one, post the pic....might help me pick one out.
 
1engineer; Looking at your avatar, it appears that you have a dual arm type rack with (possibly) a top tube adapter to keep the frame/bike level. Is that correct? Do you have any security concerns with that? I will be making multi-day trips with the rack of choice, so security is an issue. I know nothing is foolproof, by why make it easy?

One of my bikes is a full suspension, so I'm kind of leaning toward a platform type hitch right now.

[Edit: mform, sounds like we are thinking alike. Its swallowing the checkbook part for the racks that seem to address my needs the best.]
 
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Thats why I'm still running the old rack even though a few of the plastic parts have started to degrade, become brittle. Searching for parts has become futile as this thing is pretty great, but pretty old.
 
My Thule rack is similar in setup to what 1engineer has on his avatar, and it has an integrated bike lock. I've taken my bikes 2,000 miles across the country without issue using that rack and leaving them locked in less than secure areas across the US. If you're really concerned, couple that with a U-lock.
 
1engineer; Looking at your avatar, it appears that you have a dual arm type rack with (possibly) a top tube adapter to keep the frame/bike level. Is that correct? Do you have any security concerns with that? I will be making multi-day trips with the rack of choice, so security is an issue. I know nothing is foolproof, by why make it easy?

One of my bikes is a full suspension, so I'm kind of leaning toward a platform type hitch right now.

[Edit: mform, sounds like we are thinking alike. Its swallowing the checkbook part for the racks that seem to address my needs the best.]

You are correct. The plates that hold the tube adapters has a key lock that lock the top tube adapters together. I also use a locking pin in the hitch. To lock the bikes I simply use a long chain type wrapped through the wheels and through the frames. So, I have three locks lol. Two of them are always locked so the only one to worry about is the chain lock. I use them when traveling long distance and I stop to eat, etc. I like the bottom mount bike racks and will eventually get one, but this one has been faithful for 15 years and several different vehicles. The tube adapters are foolproof and it takes literally 5 seconds to mount and unmount the bike. I also don't have to worry about messing up the brake lines or cables with the adapters. My usual trails are close so this system works fine for me. I ride at least 4-5X a week so I devised something that was painless and quick. Also you can get my entire setup still for under $200.00 including the two adapters. I will take a closer pic for you if you want. It's pretty beat up after thousands of mount-dismounts though!
 
Just a question that i may have answered myself..

Is there any benefit of buying a yakima/thule/whatever else higher end brand of hitch mounted bike racks vs a 50 dollar bell bike rack from walmart or something?

Do the mounts on the more expensive racks not interfere with brakes lines?

I have a 50 dollar bell bike rack (hitch mounted) that fits 4 bikes.. more like 3 comfortably. And i just use a locking pin for the hitch and cable locks to secure the bikes to the rack in turn to the reciever. Coupled with extra large zip ties (that i can pick out with a multitool) to keep the wheels from turning on the when driving, and im good to go for over 100+ miles with minimal movement.
 
I am sure there is a benefit to buying the more expensive Thule, Yakima, etc. I have had a hitch mounted bike rack made by Master Locks that I bought at an O'Reilly auto parts store ten years ago. Sure, it is not nearly as nice, but has held up well and does the job for me. I think it was around 40 bucks. I also do what 1engineer does: lock the hitch and put a cable lock through the wheels and frame. I only use mine about a dozen times a year or so, but it seems to work. To each their own, but my "cheapie" has served me well. If you are going to use yours more than that, you may want to look into a nicer one.
 
Kuat is what I have for my bikes, I never hang them from the frame but only use the rack style that allows them to be supported from below. The model I have has a built in cable lock (same key as the receiver lock it comes with) so its really secure. Supports my 29'er just fine and it doesn't come anywhere near the top of the truck.
 
As you can see in this picture, a Thule rack puts the bike seats just below the roofline. I went with the Thule because it fits a 2" receiver without any sort of sleeve or adaptor. I bought the Thule locking hitch bolt, and then run a cable through the U bolts on the hitch receiver and through all the wheels and frames and secure with a bike lock to keep tires from spinning plus locking everything up.
 

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Just a question that i may have answered myself..

Is there any benefit of buying a yakima/thule/whatever else higher end brand of hitch mounted bike racks vs a 50 dollar bell bike rack from walmart or something?

Do the mounts on the more expensive racks not interfere with brakes lines?

I have a 50 dollar bell bike rack (hitch mounted) that fits 4 bikes.. more like 3 comfortably. And i just use a locking pin for the hitch and cable locks to secure the bikes to the rack in turn to the reciever. Coupled with extra large zip ties (that i can pick out with a multitool) to keep the wheels from turning on the when driving, and im good to go for over 100+ miles with minimal movement.

Does your less expensive one have a flip down option, so that the bike rack can remain attached to the hitch while you lift up your tailgate? Kind of like this:

thule-parkway-4-bike-rack-4.jpg


That's about the only advantage I can think of...
 
Oh yeah, I forgot to add this nifty idea for those of you looking for cheap options. I would not believe it had it not seen it with my own eyes :lmao:
 

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Just a question that i may have answered myself..

Is there any benefit of buying a yakima/thule/whatever else higher end brand of hitch mounted bike racks vs a 50 dollar bell bike rack from walmart or something?

Do the mounts on the more expensive racks not interfere with brakes lines?

I have a 50 dollar bell bike rack (hitch mounted) that fits 4 bikes.. more like 3 comfortably. And i just use a locking pin for the hitch and cable locks to secure the bikes to the rack in turn to the reciever. Coupled with extra large zip ties (that i can pick out with a multitool) to keep the wheels from turning on the when driving, and im good to go for over 100+ miles with minimal movement.

Does your less expensive one have a flip down option, so that the bike rack can remain attached to the hitch while you lift up your tailgate? Kind of like this:

thule-parkway-4-bike-rack-4.jpg


That's about the only advantage I can think of...

Mine does lol. Only issue with mine is I have to repaint the top plate every few years to keep it from rusting.

Here's a closer picture in all it's battle scarred beauty:
 

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Does your less expensive one have a flip down option, so that the bike rack can remain attached to the hitch while you lift up your tailgate? Kind of like this:

thule-parkway-4-bike-rack-4.jpg


That's about the only advantage I can think of...

Yep. Only flaw i can think about it is having the bottom elbow so far out, sometimes when its hooked up to the sienna and not either 4runner it scrapes going up driveways. But it would seem that the more expensive ones would do the same (if not an a higher vehicle).

The straps used to secure the bike are for show more ergonomical, but then the one im using allows you to move the location of where you actually mount the bike on the racks..

Purchase the Bell Sports Hitchbiker Folding Hitch Rack for less at Walmart.com. Save money. Live better.

Just like that.

I guess its closer to a 100, not 50.. i got it so long ago :l lol
 
To be honest, I've never even attached mine to the 4runner yet so I am not sure about the rear clearance on steeper driveways. I would imagine they all have to stick out a decent amount to clear the tail of the vehicle? I actually don't even recall the brand anymore, it's either a Thule or a Yakima.

I should mount it up and take some pictures when the weather is nicer. Please don't make fun of mine because it's in pristine condition. I ride once every few years :)
 
Obviously mine is a 3rd gen, but these measurements may help you. Standing on level ground, the highest point on my bike is approximately 48 inches (I used the top of the stem because you could always drop the post if you had to). Sitting on my Yakima Holdup, that same point is approximately 47 inches from the TOP of the hitch. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing that Yakima has either discontinued or redesigned the Holdup, but you may be able to snag one on clearance or even used. I've used all manner of racks over the last 13 years, and the hitch mount tray type is by far my favorite.

20k52wz.jpg
 

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