How did you coat your sliders?

[TK-422]

I also subscribe to the Rustolium bedliner spray.

It is relatively cheaper from the beginning.

It holds up well.

It looks good.

It makes a nice grip on the surface of the sliders.

Touchups are easy when you beat the sliders up. I have done this.

The only drawback is the cans tend to clog up after the first use

I have tried cleaning the cap but it seems to be internal so I have many almost full cans that are unusable. No amount of shaking can get them to spray again.

I can buy many more cans before I would catch up to the cost of powder coating.

 

[Ohio_Steve]

Zinc phosphate and ecoat primer and powder coating = 2,000+ hours

That's good news! [MENTION=139465]Ohio Hawk[/MENTION] and I are having our [MENTION=131444]C4 Fabrication[/MENTION] sliders shipped to a local plating business, and this is the process that was recommended. That'll be great here in northern Ohio, where salt is on the road from November to April...

 

[infinitedev]

I've seen many others using POR15 as well. I'll probably go either this route or Rustoleum.

I think the money and time is much better spent on POR15 rather than rustoleum. While on the higher end of the spray paint, rustoleum is still just spray paint, and will not look good after a while.

Edit- not sure how the bedliner holds up. I'd be wary of deep scratches impossible to repair properly.

 

[SFL_driver]

Zinc phosphate and ecoat primer and powder coating = 2,000+ hours

Is the zinc phosphate and ecoat primer something that could be done before a regular paint such as POR15?
If so, how would I go about doing this?

 

[00Sebby]

Is the zinc phosphate and ecoat primer something that could be done before a regular paint such as POR15?
If so, how would I go about doing this?

You can definitely paint over e-coat. :thumb: You can think of the zinc-phos as the anchor for the e-coat. The paint would then be the next layer on top of the e-coat. Almost all automotive sheetmetal is e-coated prior to finish coating. However, I think POR15 is formulated to go directly on steel so it may not work with e-coat... I really don't know much about POR. E-coat is vulnerable to UV deterioration otherwise it looks great on it's own. Most sunroof frames are e-coat without a finish coat.

 

[wookiecrisp]

Etching primer and textured paint. Actually followed the directions on the can. Steel wool, acetone, light sand, acetone, 3 coats primer, drying time, 3 coats textured paint, drying time. Wear a good mask. Painting is a PITA, I would have paid someone else to do it, ... Maybe even powder coat instead after all that. Touch ups should be easier though, right?!

 

[Elite130]

I Line-X-ed my sliders. I'm not planning on taking my rig up any trails that would require sliders. However I figured if I was going to spend the money, might as well get sliders with steps. Plus I got a great deal on them used. The Line-X is great for protection, however passengers scrape their leg on them a lot and it hurts and scrapes the legs a lot more than if the sliders they were powder coated or some smooth finish.

I would do the Line-X again. Just be aware of some scrapped up calves.

 

[LifestyleOverland]

My Budbuilts began with the rustoleum treatment but after many miles of gravels roads they are nasty looking. While that doesn't bother me... the fact they are starting to rust does. Plus it would be nice to have some better grip when loading the roof rack. So we are going to go with Rhino liner when I have my truck bed shot next month.

 

[Jetboy]

I have a galvanizing shop in my area. I think for my next round I'll probably just have them hot-dipped and then painted black on top of that. My thoughts is that it should last a very long time with that combo. The galvanizing is only about $100 for the set.