how much to pay guy for fixing my truck?/where buy parts?

[runi9]

Aloha ('hello' in Hawaiian) all,


My 4Runner has a lot of issue going on with it. I took it to the shop last week to have them look at my 4runner and see what was wrong with it but not to fix it. The total costs to fix everything totaled $1600.00. :O My brother-in-law introduced me to a friend of his who supposedly knows how to fix cars. He told me to buy the parts that the shop said was broken/breaking on my car and that he would install them for me.

I am still driving my 4runner but according to the shop, some of the things that are broken/very close to breaking on my truck are:
front disc brake, ceramic pads (for front brakes, I assume), front brake hoses, both rear brake drums, sway bar link kits, u joints, and some other stuff.

In a couple of hours, I am going to scan both of the repair sheets that the shop gave me so all of you experts can see every single thing that is broken on my 4Runner.

So, with all of that said, here are my questions:

I am going to purchase all of the parts myself and have my brother-in-law's friend install/fix the broken parts for me. So:

1. My route is going to be cheaper than having the shop fix my car, right?
2. Which website should I use to purchase all the parts that I need to fix the broken parts on my 4Runner? By that, I mean which website is the safest, has the best parts, and is the cheapest.
3. If I choose to go this route and after I buy all the parts on whichever website you all recommend to me, how much should I pay the mechanic to fix my car? I asked the guy how much he charges and he said, "It's up to you." I'm not sure how much to pay him. Obviously, I am choosing him over the shop because I want to save money so...?

Thank you in advance! I will post the scans of the repair sheets from the shop in a couple of hours.

Edit:

Ok, I have scanned the repair sheets that the repair shop gave me. This sheets list everything that the repair states is wrong with my 1998 Toyota 4Runner Limited:

 

[LittleCaesar]

You may need a press for the Ujoints, but try greasing them first. That said, no one has been able to agree 100% on the type of grease being used.

Turn the drums, don't buy new ones. Everything else can be done without too much effort.

Get a set price on the labor before he picks up a wrench. For Hawaii, $35/hr. Maybe $40.

 

[Brignola85]

I'd be getting second and third opinions before you go buying things. Go to your next shop and ask them whats wrong with it... DO NOT mention anything that you may think is wrong with it, or anything that the previous shop mentioned.
- If you end up with multiple shops wanting to do the same repairs, something is broken/breaking.
-If the second shops just asks you for $150(overpriced, I know, right?) to change your brake pads.. hah.. You know that the first one is trying to rip you off.
- REMEMBER: Shops/Dealerships WILL take advantage of anyone they find to be even a little clueless about automotive repairs.

 

[runi9]

I just add the pics of the repair sheets that the auto shop gave me. I see that two people posted. Please review the sheets and let me know what you think. I must also mention that I do know that car is messed up in some way though. It squeaks when I drive it and it makes a very loud click sound everytime I change gears into drive.

So, I really need to know:

1. How much to pay the guy fixing my car?
2. Where online do I buy the parts the cheapest, best quality, most reliable?

Thank you!

@Brignola - I don't know any shops here that look over automobiles for free. If I get second and third opinions, that will probably cost $45 each time... I got the one above done cheaply because I had it done on one of the military bases here and I received a much lower price.

 

[Bamf_CT2004]

Just about all of that stuff of that stuff can be done on your own with help from a buddy and you can get some parts from general auto stores or you could go all OEM. It will save alot on labor. Depending on age and how many miles, some of that stuff could be needed due to general maintenace and they could be taking you for a ride with other stuff. By doing it on your own you could probably save $800 and possibly use better quality parts and fluids.

 

[Brignola85]

According to that, the ONLY thing I would pay for would be the U-joints.. and even those are doable DIY.

1) Oil Change - $30 in your back yard.

2) Brakes - If your Rotors are > 30,000 miles.. Replace them. I believe stock replacements are ~$70 from your local Autozone.
Pads: If they aren't over 1/4" thick, replace them. Toyota 4runner Brake Pad - Auto Parts Warehouse

3) Brake lines - I'd get a second opinion, I've never heard of them going bad.. but I doubt it's something ANYONE would want to let go.

4) Rear Drums - Unless they're stock and over 150k miles.. get them "Turned" you use roughly 10%-15% of your rear brakes at any time.... (Besides the parking brake, which I doubt you need in Hawaii)

5) Sway bar Link kit - $198? LOL. Do a search on this site, I believe the going rate right now for the washers + bushings is around $20.. and takes 5 minutes to change out each side.

6) Stabilizer bar - Remove and replace? Wtf for? to F up your alignment so you come back to the shop? Maybe someone else can comment on this...

7) U-Joints - 98 1998 Toyota 4Runner U Joints - Driveline and Axles | Drivewire.com Please, someone else comment, I've never needed to replaced this.

8) Battery - You can have it checked at any Auto parts store for free.. Do this before you replace it.. even a brand new stock replacement battery will NOT cost you $122. And the auto parts store will install it free of charge 95% of the time.

In the end... It's really up to you. If you want to order the parts and hand them to your brothers friend to put on.. give him ~$30hr if hes actually working. Watch him while he does it, offer to help, you might learn a thing or ten... AND save yourself some dough.

 

[Brignola85]

@Brignola - I don't know any shops here that look over automobiles for free. If I get second and third opinions, that will probably cost $45 each time... I got the one above done cheaply because I had it done on one of the military bases here and I received a much lower price.

Spend $90 now, or $1600 later?

 

[runi9]

In the end... It's really up to you. If you want to order the parts and hand them to your brothers friend to put on.. give him ~$30hr if hes actually working. Watch him while he does it, offer to help, you might learn a thing or ten... AND save yourself some dough.

Ok, I will take your advice and get at least one more second opinion in the morning.

(depending on the outcome of the check tomorrow) Regarding the other things, so, I presume the two sites you mentioned are the best places to buy all the parts that I need from? Is that correct? Those two sites are:
1. Auto Parts Warehouse | Car Parts, Truck Parts & Auto Body Parts Online - Free Shipping on most Auto Accessories & Performance Parts – AutoPartsWarehouse
2. Auto Parts, Car Parts and Auto Accessories at Discount Prices | DriveWire.com

By doing it on your own you could probably save $800 and possibly use better quality parts and fluids.

About this, for each part that is listed on the repair sheet, how do I know which part is the best part for my 1998 4Runner Limited? I can type each part into the "search" field on the two websites Brignola85 mentioned but there will be a multitude of choices. Can we go over each part together one-by-one and you all list which is the best quality part to purchase please? I can make a list of what's wrong and you can just let me know what are the best quality parts for the specific part I'm looking for. How would you like to do this?

But we do not have to do this yet since I have decided to follow Brignola's advice and get one last second opinion tomorrow. After that, I will post that repair sheet here again for analysis. I will take action depending on the responses/advice I receive after the experts here have reviewed the second shop's repair sheet.

But regardless of what the second repair shop gives me tomorrow, I know that my 4Runner needs repair in a couple of areas since it is making certain "bad" noises that I listed above in my previous post. So my final decision is to again do as Brignola advised and buy the best quality parts you guys advise and then have my brother-in-law's friend show me how to install each and every part/thing that needs to be fixed. This will cost me $30/hr for him to teach me how to do everything and I will be the one doing it under his supervision so I will know that work is getting done right.

My last question for now is how long should it take for me to do all of these repairs on my 4Runner under his supervision? I ask this because I know that sometimes people will take their sweet time if I tell them that I am paying them $30/hr. If I know how long it should take then I have something to base our time progression off of. And I know if I need to have him work faster or if everything is going just fine. Thank you!

Edit:
I just called another auto shop (transmission shop) here that said they will look at my transmission tomorrow for free. I'm guessing it's only a visual check but at least I'll have that second opinion that you were talking about Brignola. I will have him look at everything and then after he gives me his diagnosis, I will show him the repair sheet that the other auto shop gave me and see what he thinks. Stay tuned for more tomorrow.

 

[BrianSD_42]

OMFG, this is ridiculous. $900 worth of brakes issues and they are working at the moment. That doesn't even include master cylinder or calipers. These shops are just one notch above the "Fast Lube" places that try to sell $800 worth of repairs to accompany an oil change.

For one thing don't go to any "all in one" shops like Midas, Firestone, Pep Boys ect for repairs.

Based on the prices they are charging near Toyota prices and will ABSOLUTELY not be using Toyota/OEM/NAPA quality parts. Most likely you will be getting bottom of barrel parts for that high price. Sure it may say premium and come with a warranty but they KNOW that statistically they will never see you again despite the actual part quality.

My advice to you is to call around to AS MANY shops as you can that are within 60 miles of your location (the drive might be worth it), keep calling until you find a TOYOTA only shop. Go there. Don't mention the other work to them, ask for a full inspection.

Don't be lazy, make the calls and make the drive, it is your money and pride to lose.

I just called another auto shop (transmission shop) here that said they will look at my transmission tomorrow for free. I'm guessing it's only a visual check but at least I'll have that second opinion that you were talking about Brignola.

I didn't see in the post what was wrong with the transmission but I don't think they will be able to verify much visually except that the transmission has not fallen off. I think with the 4Runner tranny you are stuck with what you have; change the fluid and drive it till it dies. There is no alternative besides a rebuild $2000, new one $4000, or something from a wreck yard $500-$1000 BUT there is no point in replacing it if it drives and it should be safe to drive even if it is slipping.

Just my 2 cents

:lookout:


EDIT: I SEE NOW THAT YOU ARE IN HAWAII - THIS PROBABLY CHANGES THINGS SIGNIFICANTLY

 

[runi9]

Brian, I will call around early tomorrow morning but I am doubtful if there are any "Toyota-only" auto shops here in Hawai'i. There are no shops 60 miles away from me. This is a very small island (O'ahu) and I live in Honolulu so it will be pretty close to me if I do happen to find one.

Btw, I am still not sure how to ascertain which specific parts to purchase when I do start purchasing the parts listed above at the sites brignola mentioned. (online should be cheaper, I'm assuming)

 

[BrianSD_42]

Yeah, what I said would make more sense if you lived stateside. if you are in the military in Hawaii I would try the base NEX auto if one exists on the island.

you are on the right track. I would order the brake rotors, drums and pads from NAPA, they seem to have a really good rep on this forum. have your guy help you out and DIY.

Skip the sway bar links, even if they break it is not a safety issue. many trucks on this forum have gone without a sway bar for years.

I would even go so far as to start a new thread calling for "help in hawaii, will pay in beer" then keep bumping the thread till you get some offers. That is a good thread title for finding help.

GOOD LUCK!

 

[cj80cruiser]

x2 on NAPA and not worrying about your swaybar links. One of mine has been broken for over a year now and just noticed the other day that my other one is broken too. My suspension is stock at the moment and it handles well enough to me without the swaybar being connected. I'm thinking I'll just take it off now that the other link has broken as well.

 

[Big John]

All of the stuff listed is EASY DIY stuff. Save your money and get your hands dirty.
FWIW… I haven't had a sway bar on my rig for two years. You get used to the extra body roll, but is no biggie to me at all. Plus, my bad ass no sway bar IFS will outflex all of you sway bar havin boys by a long shot.:bravo:

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah, you can definitely do most of that yourself.

As for where and what to buy, if you want quality, just go OEM, plus then you know you are getting the right part. Toyota of Dallas seems to consistently be the lowest prices. Not sure about shipping to Hawaii, but it's worth a check.

Any dealership should be able to help you get the right part The online dealers have pretty good look-up systems, and most have pictures to help you make sure you get the right part. If you are unsure, then e-mail them or call them.

BTW, check out the reference and tutorial sticky. Alot of the work you have listed is covered there, as well as the factory service manual (which you should download), and lots of really valuable information.

If you do have this guy come do the work, then you should have him teach you all of it while he does it. Then you can do it yourself next time.

 

[runi9]

Ok, I just came back from getting the second opinion. Remember the clicking sound I mentioned earlier, the mechanic who helped me took my 4Runner for a test drive while I waited. When he came back, he said the U joint is what is causing the problems. Now, of course he didn't do a full inspection but that is what he said is the culprit. Right before he was about to bid me farewell, I let him see the paper that I received from Firestone. When he saw how much they were charging me, he laughed out loud. He recommended fixing the U joint first then going from there. (Meh, who knows...)

Anyway, my plans now are to order the parts. I am about to call Toyota-of-Dallas to compare their prices to the Napa store online and then compare them with the prices listed at the two sites Brignola posted.

Edit:
These are all the parts that I am looking for prices for right now:
Oil (for oil change)
1 F.O.E. ceramic pad
2 REB Calp w/hdwr (front right and front left)
2 front brake hoses
2 rear brake drums
2 sway bar links
1 front stabilizer bar control link
2 387 joints (aka “u joint”)
1 battery
1 front caliper
2 front link pins

If I have the name of something incorrect, please list what the correct term(s). I'll report back on what I find later today or tomorrow. I have already spoken with Toyota-of-Dallas. Their online website is:
toyotapartsales.com

So, I'll be comparing prices with them as well as the other areas I mentioned above.

 

[Edubsam]

Here is what I would do.

Get a second opinion.
Compare the quotes and work they say needs to be done and figure out what you want to do.
Buy the parts.
Have your friend do it, but say you want to help/watch.

This way you learn about your truck and might be able to manage some of it yourself later. Plus, it's always helpful to have a second set of hands.

 

[YotaZach85]

Ok, I just came back from getting the second opinion. Remember the clicking sound I mentioned earlier, the mechanic who helped me took my 4Runner for a test drive while I waited. When he came back, he said the U joint is what is causing the problems. Now, of course he didn't do a full inspection but that is what he said is the culprit. Right before he was about to bid me farewell, I let him see the paper that I received from Firestone. When he saw how much they were charging me, he laughed out loud. He recommended fixing the U joint first then going from there. (Meh, who knows...)

Anyway, my plans now are to order the parts. I am about to call Toyota-of-Dallas to compare their prices to the Napa store online and then compare them with the prices listed at the two sites Brignola posted.

Edit:
These are all the parts that I am looking for prices for right now:
Oil (for oil change)
1 F.O.E. ceramic pad
2 REB Calp w/hdwr (front right and front left)
2 front brake hoses
2 rear brake drums
2 sway bar links
1 front stabilizer bar control link
2 387 joints (aka “u joint”)
1 battery
1 front caliper
2 front link pins

If I have the name of something incorrect, please list what the correct term(s). I'll report back on what I find later today or tomorrow. I have already spoken with Toyota-of-Dallas. Their online website is:
toyotapartsales.com

So, I'll be comparing prices with them as well as the other areas I mentioned above.

Do the universal joint and call it done, Firestone has gotten in your head and now you're all worried about sh!t that you don't need to be worried about!

Is your truck pulling in either direction when you hit the breaks? If not, don't buy calipers, that is a huge waste of money. Do not buy drums, you can have them turned if you really want to but I normally just throw shoes on without touching the drums and never notice a difference. You might as well do the three brake hoses though. I wouldn't touch the front pads because according to Firestones sheet they still have plenty of life left in them.

 

[runi9]

I bought all the parts I needed from the Napa store here. Now, I just have to wait one more day until Sunday to have the guy instruct me on how to repair/replace the defective parts. I'll report back on Sunday night or Monday.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

What Zach said, to a tee.

 

[runi9]

Ok, guys. Everything is done and fixed. We started at 9am and finished at about 5:30pm. No way I could have done that myself. But the guy who helped was really good and really knew what he was doing. I made sure he had plenty of cold beverages throughout the day and I provided him with lunch also. He charged me $450 for the labor. I paid him $500. Since he did such a good job and didn't charge me too much, I plan on having him do some other work to my 4runner later. We did everything that I listed above except for replace the battery and tires. He did say that my tires are cracking and that I should replace them because I will not pass Hawaii's safety check with cracked tires. Also they are eight years old. (the back ones) The front ones are only two and a half years old.

Thanks to everyone for all the advice/guidance given in this thread! I'll be sure to always inquire here first whenever I have questions/issues/whatever about my 4runner.