I am starting to second guess myself and my BMC.

Misterquad

Misterquad

New member
I have read several threads on changing my tire and wheels. There are 265s, 275s, 285s and who has a chart that shows the actual tire size as compared to the metric dimensions on the side wall. I have got to wonder if all 285s are actually the same size? Are some brands actually smaller or larger than others? And if so, which brands are more likely to rub?

And once I decide to run a 285 and I know I will need to trim it raises more questions. Where do I get drawings so I can do a proper layout? How can I be sure that I am cutting along the correct line? Can someone direct me to a thread that has a pdf or template?

That begs the question, what is the best brand of sawzall? What is the proper blade and cutting speed? And if I buy a variable speed sawzall, does it need a blade speed readout, so I can be sure I am cutting at the proper speed? And what is the best blade?

What about metal fatigue? Do I need to get the body mounts retreated? At what temperature should I be concerned? Will an IR gun give me an accurate temperature reading? What is the proper technique to protect the bare steel? Can I use Plasti-dip?

And then my other concern, does it void my warranty?
 
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Misterquad said:
I have read several threads on changing my tire and wheels. There are 265s, 275s, 285s and who has a chart that shows the actual tire size as compared to the metric dimensions on the side wall. I have got to wonder if all 285s are actually the same size? Are some brands actually smaller or larger than others? And if so, which brands are more likely to rub?

And once I decide to run a 285 and I know I will need to trim it raises more questions. Where do I get drawings so I can do a proper layout? How can I be sure that I am cutting along the correct line? Can someone direct me to a thread that has a pdf or template?

That begs the question, what is the best brand of sawzall? What is the proper blade and cutting speed? And if I buy a variable speed sawzall, does it need a blade speed readout, so I can be sure I am cutting at the proper speed? And what is the best blade?

What about metal fatigue? Do I need to get the body mounts retreated? At what temperature should I be concerned? Will an IR gun give me an accurate temperature reading? What is the proper technique to protect the bare steel? Can I use Plasti-dip?

And then my other concern, does it void my warranty?
Click to expand...

Uh... If you have to ask these questions you shouldn't even THINK about using a sawzall much less doing a BMC.

Seriously.
Don't even think about it.
 
Did you read the threads about changing tire size and wheels and the tire fitment guide? They are the first 2 choices in the last Stickey about mods etc. I would start there.
 
If you need to ask about sawzalls and blades, you're definitely not ready for welding. Don't do it. Invest in more plastidip.
 
Misterquad said:
I have read several threads on changing my tire and wheels. There are 265s, 275s, 285s and who has a chart that shows the actual tire size as compared to the metric dimensions on the side wall. I have got to wonder if all 285s are actually the same size? Are some brands actually smaller or larger than others? And if so, which brands are more likely to rub?

And once I decide to run a 285 and I know I will need to trim it raises more questions. Where do I get drawings so I can do a proper layout? How can I be sure that I am cutting along the correct line? Can someone direct me to a thread that has a pdf or template?

That begs the question, what is the best brand of sawzall? What is the proper blade and cutting speed? And if I buy a variable speed sawzall, does it need a blade speed readout, so I can be sure I am cutting at the proper speed? And what is the best blade?

What about metal fatigue? Do I need to get the body mounts retreated? At what temperature should I be concerned? Will an IR gun give me an accurate temperature reading? What is the proper technique to protect the bare steel? Can I use Plasti-dip?

And then my other concern, does it void my warranty?
Click to expand...

No need for an expensive sawzall or any of that. Best technique is a chisel and mini sledge (two person job). Forget the fancy plastidip as well, a high quality watercolor paint which has been certified by Toyota for clear-coating will seal up the bare end of the body mount just fine. Also, all 285s are EXACTLY the same size so no need to worry about that. Good luck.
 
Misterquad said:
I have read several threads on changing my tire and wheels. There are 265s, 275s, 285s and who has a chart that shows the actual tire size as compared to the metric dimensions on the side wall. I have got to wonder if all 285s are actually the same size? Are some brands actually smaller or larger than others? And if so, which brands are more likely to rub?

And once I decide to run a 285 and I know I will need to trim it raises more questions. Where do I get drawings so I can do a proper layout? How can I be sure that I am cutting along the correct line? Can someone direct me to a thread that has a pdf or template?

That begs the question, what is the best brand of sawzall? What is the proper blade and cutting speed? And if I buy a variable speed sawzall, does it need a blade speed readout, so I can be sure I am cutting at the proper speed? And what is the best blade?

What about metal fatigue? Do I need to get the body mounts retreated? At what temperature should I be concerned? Will an IR gun give me an accurate temperature reading? What is the proper technique to protect the bare steel? Can I use Plasti-dip?

And then my other concern, does it void my warranty?
Click to expand...
Excellent questions. I will try to answer them as well as I can, posthaste.

Not all 285's are the same size. They will be larger when they are spinning, which depends on whether you're in the northern or southern hemisphere--where they will spin anteclockwise. Inflating them with oxygen will also make them spin faster, therefore larger. Brands that rub are usually ones that make tires for both hemispheres, since they try to have a neural rather than clockwise spin. Look for a Fosters can logo, if no can, you're GTG.

Trimming tires is actually pretty easy. Most can be done by 3-4 goats of moderate size, or 1-2 large goats. Small goats cannot get their mouths around the tire lugs. If you lack goat, Alpaca can do in a pinch.

Selecting a sawzall is similarly easy. You will want a brand that can go through a standard human torso in 30-40 seconds, more if the body has been frozen. Try different brands out!

Metal fatigue is not a problem. Bondo or similar putty will actually permeate the micropores in the metal and make it 100x stronger. Steel and even wood glue can be used as a substitute. Remember to paint black to keep the adhesive inside the metal pores.

Warranty is no problemo. Just send 2-3 nubile prostitutes to your warranty officer, age and gender may vary based on his/her proclivities. Short and Estonian work best.
 
Great post with great questions we all have asked ourselves. But don't over think things, this project is not that complicated and can be done with one simple tool: a BFH. That is the one tool I use for most projects. Expert tip: Be sure to use fresh batteries!
 
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