If you ever plan on removing your starter, read this first.

[firemanj92]

I sure wish I had your skill - 3 hrs so far, electrical connections off - and brake lines loose - can't get the lower starter bolt to budge. I haven't even found the upper bolt yet.
(I wasn't trying to be a smart a** - I just don't see an easier way. (Mine is 4wd by the way.)

With a swivel socket (14mm) and a 2 long extensions you will be able to reach the top and bottom bolt from underneath-right up the header downtube. I too have a two 4wds and it took about 45mins (each T4R) to pull (through) wheelwell, rebuild then re-install. For me it was easier to rebuild on the bench than in the vehicle....hope you get it soon. -J

 

[kolelt]

I sure wish I had your skill - 3 hrs so far, electrical connections off - and brake lines loose - can't get the lower starter bolt to budge. I haven't even found the upper bolt yet.
(I wasn't trying to be a smart a** - I just don't see an easier way. (Mine is 4wd by the way.)

Yeah mines 4wd also. Just need extensions and swivel sockets. It's hard to explain it. I hope you get it bud.

 

[kf4aqo]

lies..all lies

the damn transmission dipstick and powersteering lines are in the way :dammit:

the 4 cylinder was a super huge mega biotch to do the starter and i was told the v6 was much easier...nope

Please help/suggest
I have a 2000 4runner - 4wd - auto - I cannot get the nut holding the tranny dipstick to budge...I've tried PB blaster...the edges are beginning to round... the stupid starter is off, wires are off, brake lines loose, but the dipstick nut will not budge. I also cut off the box end of the wrench and welded a round piece of steel to make a longer handle...but I don't want to round the edges even more...okay guys...someone tell me the magic word.
Thanks

 

[alanflies]

I had that same issue, I used a "good 6 point socket" and I approached the bolt from the top via the engine compartment so I could hold the socket square as I pulled up on the ratchet handle.

 

[Unner]

Did this yesterday... Mine came out through the wheel well just like [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] show in their video. Follow his video and you will be fine.

My only suggestion is that I used a 1/4" ratchet and deepwell 14mm socket to loosen and tighten the bolts once I broke them loose. I was able to get it between the header downpipe and transmission and turn it about 1/16th of a turn at a time. Not fun, but it works. The bottom bolt I used the 1/2" ratchet, extensions, and swivel to actually tighten it down. The top one I couldn't get it to stay on without slipping off so I used a 3/8" ratchet, a combination of adapters and sockets to find the perfect length where it barely cleared the firewall and tightened it down like that.


I also found out that when the previous owner had it replaced the not only replaced the OEM with a garbage aftermarket one, but they also put the wrong one in. I had the 1.4kw when I should have had the 1.8kw.

I replaced it with a remanufactured Denso.

Check out the corrosion on the cheap aftermarket one after only 4 years. This is why you should rebuild your OEM one instead of putting some cheap parts store products in there.

1.4kw vs 1.8kw
20171220_150103 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Corrosion on the outside.
20171220_150916 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Corrosion on the inside.
20171220_151313 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Rubber boot on the aftermarket one crumbled when I took it out.
20171220_150922 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

More corrosion.
20171220_151332 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

20171220_151325 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

And the inside of the new Denso one.
20171220_152729 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

 

[firemanj92]

Did this yesterday... Mine came out through the wheel well just like [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] show in their video. Follow his video and you will be fine.

My only suggestion is that I used a 1/4" ratchet and deepwell 14mm socket to loosen and tighten the bolts once I broke them loose. I was able to get it between the header downpipe and transmission and turn it about 1/16th of a turn at a time. Not fun, but it works. The bottom bolt I used the 1/2" ratchet, extensions, and swivel to actually tighten it down. The top one I couldn't get it to stay on without slipping off so I used a 3/8" ratchet, a combination of adapters and sockets to find the perfect length where it barely cleared the firewall and tightened it down like that.


I also found out that when the previous owner had it replaced the not only replaced the OEM with a garbage aftermarket one, but they also put the wrong one in. I had the 1.4kw when I should have had the 1.8kw.

I replaced it with a remanufactured Denso.

Check out the corrosion on the cheap aftermarket one after only 4 years. This is why you should rebuild your OEM one instead of putting some cheap parts store products in there.

1.4kw vs 1.8kw
20171220_150103 by Unner Unner, on Flickr





After looking at your pics, I've come to the conclusion the PO installed a 1.4kw starter (that I just rebuilt/re-installed)-no labels. Explains the hesitation of the underpowered starter in my auto/4wd. Guess I'll be doing that again. Oh well, I was looking for something to tinker with.

 

[kf4aqo]

Please help/suggest
I have a 2000 4runner - 4wd - auto - I cannot get the nut holding the tranny dipstick to budge...I've tried PB blaster...the edges are beginning to round... the stupid starter is off, wires are off, brake lines loose, but the dipstick nut will not budge. I also cut off the box end of the wrench and welded a round piece of steel to make a longer handle...but I don't want to round the edges even more...okay guys...someone tell me the magic word.
Thanks

Update...
This is almost embarrassing. I kept looking at the tranny dipstick bracket thinking something wasn't right. I saw how I thought it should attach but it didn't. I got some extra light on the thing (from a different angle) and saw the stupid thing wasn't even attached. It was kinda pinched/forced/wedged into place. I gave it a twist and a pull; it popped out. Took about 45 minutes to complete the task. I feel like an idiot. Lesson learned...get plenty of light. Don't assume the PO or an mechanic somewhere put all the parts back together. I never got the nut off. So I ended up pinching/forcing/wedging the bracket right back where it was to start with. If I drank I'd drink...but, instead, I'm going to go eat some chocolate.:jaw:

 

[MonkeyofAwesome]

I just snaked mine out between the sway bar and exhaust. Was way easier than I expected.

 

[Masaka]

Correct starter disengagement behavior?

When should the starter gear disengage from flexplate:

1. as soon as the engine turns, or
2. when the key returns to normal ON position?

I put in new starter but it only disengages when the key returns. So, after the engine turns, I hear "over-cranking" noise for a few moments it takes to release the key. If i hold key in start, the starter remains engaged, producing the "over-cranking" noise. It disengages only when I release the key (when I think solenoid pulls it back.)

Could someone please see what your starter does in the time between engine turning and releasing the key?

 

[Sean K.]

Disclaimer: My agression may be slightly elevated at this current time due to personal issues.

I am so sick of internet know-it-alls giving out shitty information.
I swam through thread after thread after thread of all different tricks to remove your starter.
One guy says to unbolt the brake line and bend it out of the way, then remove the transmission dipstick.

Listen to me
ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS REMOVE THE 2 NUTS AND 2 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE SWAY BAR TO THE FRAME AND THE STARTER WILL FALL RIGHT OUT.

I'll type it again
ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS REMOVE THE 2 NUTS AND 2 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE SWAY BAR TO THE FRAME AND THE STARTER WILL FALL RIGHT OUT.

I just wasted 2 hours trying to snake this stupid thing out through the wheel well as this shitbird suggested.
It took me 5 minutes to unbolt the starter and contacts. 10 Minutes to work out the slightly rusty bolts on the sway bar. 12 seconds for the starter to drop out. Another 5 minutes to bolt the new starter and contacts. And 5 more to bolt the sway bar back in.

One more time...
ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS REMOVE THE 2 NUTS AND 2 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE SWAY BAR TO THE FRAME AND THE STARTER WILL FALL RIGHT OUT.

You appear to have a SFA...whyTF would you try to take it out through the wheel well? I'm still IFS and it came out easily from under the car. Not sure why anyone would suggest the wheel well route. ***EDIT** Sorry didn't realize this thread was approaching a decade old, LOL.

 

[sae10w30]

I'm In the middle of replacing the clutch and everything is off up to the starter (harness, driveshaft, connectors, slave cylinder) where I'm ready to tackle the bell housing bolts once I get the two starter bolts off.

But where is that top bolt?

I came here to find WHERE that top starter bolt is because I can't even SEE it.

I think I got the bottom 14mm bolt if it's the one on the brake line bracket with the harness holder.

Can someone show me a picture of the TOP bolt?

 

[sae10w30]

I gout it out easily once I learned what was in this thread.

As was stated, both 14mm starter housing bolts go in from the transmission side to the front.

The top bolt was easy to find once I knew where to look which was through the driver side wheel where I pulled back the plastic flap and could see the bolt easily with a flashlight.

I couldn't get to the starter bolt due to a coil of hard brake line though
I couldn't get to that upper 14mm starter bolt from below either.

What worked easily was I climbed up on top of the engine and got that top 14mm starter bolt out using just a socket and handle. Nothing else.

It would only move about a 16th of a turn with each twist but that was enough. The starter just fell down after that bolt was removed, so I tucked it off to the side and continued on with my clutch job.

 

[Jake Gray]

Im not sure if I just don't understand people's confusion about getting the starter out or what. I keep seeing people saying to drop it through the bottom...I didn't do that. I put a new starter in a 99 v6 thats stock besides some oversized tires last week. I removed the dust flap on the inside of the fender well (clips), the transmission filler neck (1 bolt on the side of the block) and pulled it out, undid some bolts for the hard brake lines so they were mobile, removed the wire clip and nut holding wires on, then removed the two annoying bolts that hold the starter on....and with maybe 30 seconds of moving it around to find the right angle I had it out through the fender well. Another 30 of putting a new one in the same way I got it out. Reverse everything and done. Maybe I just got lucky or I'm misunderstanding but it was a 30 minute job and im not a mechanic or anything

 

[toastybroski]

Anyone have pics of the method described in this post? I haven't seen any videos that have done it this way.

 

[phattyduck]

The post above by Jake Gray covers it pretty well.

Start from this:

Remove the trans dipstick and move the brake line and you can get it out through this opening:

-Charlie

 

[toastybroski]

The post above by Jake Gray covers it pretty well.

Start from this:

Remove the trans dipstick and move the brake line and you can get it out through this opening:

-Charlie

Yeah but this post specifically mentions how easy it is to remove through the sway bar mount which is not this method.

 

[sage2050]

I've got an embarrassing update to my repair. I rebuilt my starter a little over three years ago and it worked great up until about a week ago. When I turned the key I'd hear all grinding sound coming from the starter. I thought "oh great there goes the flywheel". And planned to do that repair.

Today I walk out of my office and my car won't start. No clicking, just nothing... I hop out and look behind the front passenger wheel and my starter has just dropped to the side. Turns out the top bolt came lose and worked its way all the the way out of the starter. I was really lucky that I didn't lose it. I was also lucky that I had tools on me and was able to slide under the car and tighten it back up.

Don't be like me. Tighten your bolts.

 

[Jhitch]

1996 5vz-fe starter replacement

Seemed to find a lot of answers. I just replaced my starter in my 1996 4Runner limited. 5vz-fe. Accessing from passenger side front wheel. You have to
1.) remove the brake line from the frame in two locations in wheel well using a 12mm socket/wrench.

2.) YOU MUST remove the transmission dipstick and remove the one bolt holding the first section of transmission dipstick tube. Remove that first section. It just sits inside of next section below it.

3.) remove both electrical connection on bottom of starter. One is a nut with lock washer, other is a clip.

4.) using a 14mm socket with elbow, and extensions. Remove two 14mm bolts that hold starter to transmission housing. Then starter will fall out.

5.) pull starter out over frame and where brake lines are supposed to be.

Then reverse order to put new one back in. Took about an hour and a half for whole job.

 

[Dieselchessy]

Interesting. I've replaced the starter on both Automatic tranny rigs and Manual tranny rigs. The 1999 Auto was several years ago, so I don't recall for sure, but pretty sure I never disconnected anything to get it out.
I just pulled the starter from my 98 manual and I just dropped the starter down so it was sitting on the sway bar, then rolled it over and sideways a little so I could slide it to the rear up over the sway bar by the exhaust pipe.

But...... my exhaust crossover pipe doesn't look like the one pictured above.
Perhaps the later years of the 3rd gens have enough difference in the exhaust that this maneuver isn't possible.

 

[G_Raw]

Well, if the bolt is a "penis", the nut would be the "vag".

Wait is that why they screw together?!