im getting a 4the gen

EdmundGTP said:
That is very similar to the one I used. The only real additional step with regard to the illuminated switches is that you have to pull an additional +12V lead from your interior dimmer/illumination circuit. Or, if you don't mind the switch being lit up ALL the time, just pull it from your +12V acc on circuit. I wired mine so that I could run the light any time with the truck on or off, and that the switch would only be illuminated when the rest of the buttons lit up (headlights on)

EDIT: this is the one I used. OTRATTW :: Switch w/Rocker :: Contura V :: Lighting :: Amber LED :: Lower Independent LED (Text Area) :: Amber/Amber :: CONTURA V, FJ BUMPER LIGHT BAR, LOWER LED INDEPENDENT
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I didn't have a chance to stop by that shop, are the switches they have there similar to the ones I posted the link to
 
ok so im trying to figure out my options for mounting my 31" hanma lightbar.
I want to mount it to the stock roof rack. At first thought you may think it might not look right because its not a 40 inch, but with I test fitted the stealth install by bannerbuilt http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/139354-stealth-led-light-bar-install.html and theres only about 3" of space on each side and looked fine. but I kinda wanted a lil more aggressive look with it being a little higher off the roof. anyone have any other mounting options for this hanma lightbar to be mounted to the stock roof rack.
if anything I was thinking I can fab a bar across using the draw bolts idea to mount it to the roof rack.
 
temporarily mounted my lightbar to see if I like it before I do the wiring.
tell me what you think. I think I like the lower more stealth look.
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Lower looks better. BUT, the front half of your car is going to severely cut the beam that would normally be directly in front of your truck. The fact that our OEM roof rails don't begin until almost a full 1/3 of the way back along the roof doesn't help either.

Take a side profile pic and use a ruler to draw a line from the middle of your light bar tangent to the point on your truck where a light beam would clear the body, then project it to the ground, and that's where your light pattern will begin.

If you want to mount your bar that close to the roof, you'll probably want auxiliary lights of some sort on your bumper to really light up the area directly in front of your truck.
 
EdmundGTP said:
Lower looks better. BUT, the front half of your car is going to severely cut the beam that would normally be directly in front of your truck. The fact that our OEM roof rails don't begin until almost a full 1/3 of the way back along the roof doesn't help either.

Take a side profile pic and use a ruler to draw a line from the middle of your light bar tangent to the point on your truck where a light beam would clear the body, then project it to the ground, and that's where your light pattern will begin.

If you want to mount your bar that close to the roof, you'll probably want auxiliary lights of some sort on your bumper to really light up the area directly in front of your truck.
Click to expand...

yes, that's my other concern. I got the flood/spot combo. I would prefer it on the roof, but front of truck is also an option. I eventually want to install a winch so I don't really want to put it in the lower grill, and I don't want to mod the upper grill so behind there doesn't seem to be an option. Nor do I want to put holes in the bumper so on top the bumper isn't really an option. hmmm???
 
what do you guys think of this price i was quoted for some sliders.

custom , tubular style, my choice of bolt on or weld on, painted or powdercoated, in my hand, for $450:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 
ddnww said:
what do you guys think of this price i was quoted for some sliders.

custom , tubular style, my choice of bolt on or weld on, painted or powdercoated, in my hand, for $450:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
Click to expand...


do it. bolt-on and powdercoated would be my preferred config. After taking shipping and finish work into account, you'd be VERY hard pressed to find a competitive price from any of the online vendors.
 
ddnww said:
what do you guys think of this price i was quoted for some sliders.

custom , tubular style, my choice of bolt on or weld on, painted or powdercoated, in my hand, for $450:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
Click to expand...

Ver good price. My guess is this company hasn't made a bolt on set yet and doesn't realize the interference issues that may arise. I ordered weld on sliders from BAMF.
 
EdmundGTP said:
do it. bolt-on and powdercoated would be my preferred config. After taking shipping and finish work into account, you'd be VERY hard pressed to find a competitive price from any of the online vendors.
Click to expand...

ebg18t said:
Ver good price. My guess is this company hasn't made a bolt on set yet and doesn't realize the interference issues that may arise. I ordered weld on sliders from BAMF.
Click to expand...

thanks for your input guys :banana:
 
You have one sweet rig in progress there my man. I love my T-4 V-6. Im more of the "spirited" type, who likes his speedy stuff, along with some knarly uphills too. When I shopped for tires, I was debating between a few different tires. I really wanted the TOYO M/T's but my issue is, its my daily work truck and I put alot of city miles on her. My choice was an A/T. But I needed an aggressive a/t with a nice soft rubber compound to suit my driving,(sprited) style.The new TOYO A/T2's came out one month after I picked up my Nitto's. Nitto's, not a bad tire on or off. When aired down just right for most all conditions, the Nitto's, like your A/T2's perform well for an a/t. The key though, is to air down. If you dont do that now, you will be amazed at the ride, handling, and amazing grip. Im talking fast powerline's with fast corners, to sandy silty washes, to knarly uphills. That is one thing I dont see when we are out, it guys airing down. Not airing down will cause more drivetrain damage over the long term. I guarantee that!
I went with the 5100 adjustables up front and the 1.5 daystar and the 5100's in the rear. After a very short time, I grew to absolutely hate the OEM springs. For off roading with all your gear, passengers ect, the rear OEM springs are horrible. Even with my daily work supplies, they dont handle the weight well. Or any sort of rough or slow to meduim speed roads without bottoming out far to easy. The trade off though is when you are climbiing that nasty hill. Thats when we need a soft, compliant chassis setup allowing the parts and pieces to articulate easily. I cant wait for my new springs. But, your rig is dam sweet!:thumb3:
 
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well i havent installed my LED lightbar yet.. i was going to do the stealth setup, but got too much vibration on the freeway.. i got some quotes from local fabricators to make mounting bracket(s) but for the price they want to charge i was thinking bout getting a roof rack to mount to factory roof rails and mount the lightbar to that..

so i found this

Car Roof Rack with Wind Fairing

couple questions:

does anyone have one of these?

Will it hold up well?

how and can i mount my lightbar to it?
 
Short answer: Anything is possible with enough creativity, and/or money..

Longer answer: I don't have one of those but I will say that from looking at the pics, the way it attaches to the cross bars with those U bolts seems kinda chintzy. It also doesn't look like there's a good mounting surface to attach your light bar too directly, so odds are you'd have to fabricate some sort of flat mounting surface that either bolts on or welds on to the front of the basket (more custom fab work). You COULD drill THROUGH one of the main basket bars and bolt the mounting feet of the light bar to that, but it wouldn't be a terribly sturdy mounting solution. Additionally you'd have to remove or mod the fairing panel somehow.

ddnww said:
well i havent installed my LED lightbar yet.. i was going to do the stealth setup, but got too much vibration on the freeway.. i got some quotes from local fabricators to make mounting bracket(s) but for the price they want to charge i was thinking bout getting a roof rack to mount to factory roof rails and mount the lightbar to that..

so i found this

Car Roof Rack with Wind Fairing

couple questions:

does anyone have one of these?

Will it hold up well?

how and can i mount my lightbar to it?
Click to expand...
 
EdmundGTP said:
Short answer: Anything is possible with enough creativity, and/or money..

Longer answer: I don't have one of those but I will say that from looking at the pics, the way it attaches to the cross bars with those U bolts seems kinda chintzy. It also doesn't look like there's a good mounting surface to attach your light bar too directly, so odds are you'd have to fabricate some sort of flat mounting surface that either bolts on or welds on to the front of the basket (more custom fab work). You COULD drill THROUGH one of the main basket bars and bolt the mounting feet of the light bar to that, but it wouldn't be a terribly sturdy mounting solution. Additionally you'd have to remove or mod the fairing panel somehow.
Click to expand...

Yes that is my concern, that it is not strong enough, a little fab I'm ok with, this rack is 100 bucks. I'm willing to spend 200 if you know a good one
 
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