In over my head--roof rack lights wiring questions

[Kraze]

Let me start off by saying, I have no clue what I'm doing when it comes to anything electrical. I can wire up a head unit or a sub/amp, but only because the wires are all color coded.

With that said, I have already found many helpful posts on here that have led me to believe that maybe, just maybe, I can successfully wire up roof rack lights without burning my 4Runner to the ground.

After everything is said and done, I plan on changing the thread title to "How to wire up roof rack lights: for dummies" because that's what this thread is. I'll take extensive pictures along the way, so that anyone with next-to-no electrical knowledge can also tackle this task in the future.

Here are the posts I will be using for reference:

[MENTION=62779]Kurtis[/MENTION]'s wiring diagram and info from his thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...yota-4runner-build-thread-14.html#post1445536

[MENTION=55891]Bandit Runner[/MENTION]'s diagram and the following posts from his thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/125705-bandit-runners-roof-rack-build-6.html#post1291163

[MENTION=82275]4ever4running[/MENTION]'s posts about his Blue Sea fuse box install: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...nnings-2002-4runner-build-10.html#post1274182 and his roof rack thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...essories/121387-yakima-loadwarrior-build.html

[MENTION=76419]Doc2012[/MENTION]'s posts about his switch install: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/119076-docs-zrv-pic-heavy-12.html#post1422201

If it wasn't for those posts, I wouldn't even consider trying to wire all of this up on my own, so thank you to those three guys (or screw you guys for giving me the confidence to try this on my own if my 4runner does end up burning down)!

Ok, so the lights that I will be using are six 6" Blitz Pro Compact LEDs from Toytec for the rear and the sides.

Then I'll be going cheap and using a 36" Cree LED flood/spot combo light bar from Ebay.

Now that we got that out of the way, my first in what is bound to be many questions is about what to order for the wiring and associated things I will have to do to get everything working.

I know I'm going to use the Contura V switches from OTRATTW. I'm guessing I want the SPST ones? They'll have the independent uppers/dependent lowers, since I want the lower light to only come on when the switch is on.

I also plan on ordering the 6 position switch holder and the Blue Sea fuse box from them.

Now here is where the parts list gets real confusing for me, and I'm really not positive about any of it.

I'll have the add-a-fuse, so I can tap into the horns/hazard fuse so the switches can always be turned on.

A 40-watt soldering iron, some 60-40 Rosin Core Solder, and some heat shrink tubing so I can get some good connections.

Some ATC fuses for the Blue Sea block and just to have around as spares.

And 100' of 16 gauge wire, in both red and black, and some 16 gauge terminal disconnects for all my wiring needs. Is 16 gauge going to be thick enough? Too thick? I also have some 18 gauge somewhere around here that I can use for the connections between the switches and relays, if that would be advisable?

Now I think the only thing missing from my parts list are the relays, and that's because I have absolutely no clue what relays I need. I don't even really know what a relay does (I plan to google it later). Any suggestions for those would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I'm guessing I'll need a fuse to go between the Blue Sea fuse box and the battery connection, any suggestions for that? I'm hoping I can find a suitable one that is cheaper than the one that 4ever4running used! And I already have some 4 gauge wire laying around that I can use for the connections to the new fuse box.

Anything else I'm missing?

 

[5vzT4R]

I'll be honest, I didn't read any of that besides the relay part lol. But I have used just a auxiliary relay that I bought from autozone for every set of lights that I have wired up, including 4 on top of a roof rack and the relays worked perfect. For every two lights I used one relay. I think they were like $8-12 a relay at autozone if I remember correctly. I'm not 100% sure what a relay does, but I think I read it helps to not overheat your switch.. that's about all I got.

 

[Kraze]

I'll be honest, I didn't read any of that besides the relay part lol. But I have used just a auxiliary relay that I bought from autozone for every set of lights that I have wired up, including 4 on top of a roof rack and the relays worked perfect. For every two lights I used one relay. I think they were like $8-12 a relay at autozone if I remember correctly. I'm not 100% sure what a relay does, but I think I read it helps to not overheat your switch.. that's about all I got.

Haha well it sounds like we have a similar level of knowledge then, which is good news for me considering you got your lights to work!

So I've been doing more reading on relays than I'd like to admit (Relays and Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT), Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) Automotive Relays), now I just need someone that's actually knowledgeable to confirm this for me. What I need is a SPST relay, like this bad boy, right? Will 50A be enough, or too much?

 

[Kurtis]

This should help with selecting the correct size wire. It's better to go a tad bit larger than a little bit smaller.

To calculate Amps the formula is Amp = Watt/Volts
For the large light you are looking at 19.5Amps. Keep it under 10-ish feet and you will be fine. For the smaller ones you could even go to 18 gauge if you really wanted because it is so small.

A SPST is what you want here. It's a Single Pole, Single Throw switch. Basically it means 1 power in and 1 power out.
This picture shows the different switch types:

A 40/50A relay is pretty standard for 12V automotive application.

The reason to use a switch to turn on a relay is because the relay is designed to take more amps than the switch. Even a good switch like the ones from OTRATTW are only 20 amps. A switch turning on a relay is the proper way to set-up the circuit.

I'm on here almost every night now. I just don't post all the time. If you have any questions just hit me up or throw me a mention on a thread.

 

[Kurtis]

I also recommend using 63/37 solder. It will melt at a lower temperature and will not enter a plastic state. It will be easier to solder and will hold better. It is also the ONLY type of solder wire authorized for military electronic repair.

 

[Kraze]

Thanks, that helps a ton! I think I should be under 10 feet total for the wiring on the front light, so I'll go with 16 gauge for that and 18 for everything else.

So one more question and I think I'll be ready to place my order for all the parts. Is a fuse even needed for the Blue Sea fuse box connection to the battery? I see now that what 4ever4running used was actually a circuit breaker, not a fuse. And the Blue Sea fuse box has individual fuses for all it's connections.

Oh, and was this spot that I circled the same spot that you told me you ran the roof rack wires through into the cab at?

Unfortunately, I siliconed it up when I took the stock roof rack off, thinking I'd never do a roof rack again. If that's the correct spot, I'll have to see if I can get all the silicone out of there so I can run the wires through it.

And I will switch out the solder to 63/37 solder. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Kurtis]

Thanks, that helps a ton! I think I should be under 10 feet total for the wiring on the front light, so I'll go with 16 gauge for that and 18 for everything else.

So one more question and I think I'll be ready to place my order for all the parts. Is a fuse even needed for the Blue Sea fuse box connection to the battery? I see now that what 4ever4running used was actually a circuit breaker, not a fuse. And the Blue Sea fuse box has individual fuses for all it's connections.

Oh, and was this spot that I circled the same spot that you told me you ran the roof rack wires through into the cab at?

Unfortunately, I siliconed it up when I took the stock roof rack off, thinking I'd never do a roof rack again. If that's the correct spot, I'll have to see if I can get all the silicone out of there so I can run the wires through it.

And I will switch out the solder to 63/37 solder. Thanks for the tip!

That's where I went through. I ended up running a 1/2" drill bit through it to fit all my wires with out them chaffing. Then I just used some Black RTV and sealed it up.

When I installed my aux fuse box I did not put a fuse between the fuse box and the battery. The run from the battery to the fuse box was only a foot long and it's really not needed due to the fuse box having fuses anyway.

 

[Kraze]

Good to know. I think I have enough info now to at least get everything ordered. It will be awhile before everything comes in and I start wiring it all up, but I'm sure there will be some more questions once I get started on the install haha.

 

[Rocky5000100]

Subscribed

 

[tyr0981]

think i'm going to do something similar to Bandit's roof rack also...(since i watched his updates like :girl: ) i bet he'd be a great Q&A guy for pointers i bet too!

 

[4ever4running]

[MENTION=91297]Kraze[/MENTION] It looks like everyone has pretty much answered all your questions, but I figure that more information won't hurt...Here is a thread that I started a while back that has all the information about how I ran my wires: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...essories/121387-yakima-loadwarrior-build.html.

In response to your question about the circuit breaker vs fuse from the battery to the Blue Sea fuse box: The Blue Sea Fuse Block has a 100A max rating, which can become overloaded pretty quickly if you have a lot of accessories that you want to power at the same time (i.e. lots of lights). A circuit breaker or fuse are both designed to prevent the box from getting overloaded and potentially starting a fire. I went with a circuit breaker because if the box gets overloaded and trips the breaker, I can simply flip it back on. A fuse would serve the same purpose, but you would have to replace the fuse if the box gets overloaded, rather than being able to flip a switch.

Here is a good covered ANL fuse holder on Amazon for $4: Amazon.com: Earthquake Sound ANL Fuse Block/Holder with 100A ANL Fuse: Car Electronics

And here are some extra fuses on Amazon for $4: Amazon.com: Absolute ANL100-2, 2 Pack ANL Fuses 100 Amp Gold Plated: Car Electronics

So you would get a fuse holder and a total of 3 fuses for under $10.

After doing the project here are a couple suggestions/recommendations:
1) Try to run as few wires as possible from the roof through the hole you have circled above. For my 4 PIAA lights, I ran 5 wires from the roof to the engine bay: 4 power wires (1 for each light) and 1 common ground for all the lights. In hindsight I could have simplified it even further and only run 3 wires because I am only using 2 relays and have 2 lights on each relay.
2) I would recommend using some sort of connector so you can remove the lights/roof rack if you ever have to. I didn't think I would ever have to remove mine, but the first time I did, it paid for itself. Check out the Sure Seal connectors I referenced in the thread above, they're great!

I hope this helps. Good luck!

 

[shootmymime]

How do i upload a power point file i got from a class in school to this site? i think it would help you guys a lot.

 

[313n703]

How do i upload a power point file i got from a class in school to this site? i think it would help you guys a lot.

If you have a Google account, upload to Google Drive and share the link to it.

 

[shootmymime]

If you have a Google account, upload to Google Drive and share the link to it.

does someone have it that i could email the file too?

 

[hrt4me]

does someone have it that i could email the file too?

you can e-mail it to me, and I'll get my wife to help me upload it...

 

[Jasonredwood]

subscribing.

 

[Kraze]

[MENTION=91297]Kraze[/MENTION] It looks like everyone has pretty much answered all your questions, but I figure that more information won't hurt...Here is a thread that I started a while back that has all the information about how I ran my wires: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...essories/121387-yakima-loadwarrior-build.html.

In response to your question about the circuit breaker vs fuse from the battery to the Blue Sea fuse box: The Blue Sea Fuse Block has a 100A max rating, which can become overloaded pretty quickly if you have a lot of accessories that you want to power at the same time (i.e. lots of lights). A circuit breaker or fuse are both designed to prevent the box from getting overloaded and potentially starting a fire. I went with a circuit breaker because if the box gets overloaded and trips the breaker, I can simply flip it back on. A fuse would serve the same purpose, but you would have to replace the fuse if the box gets overloaded, rather than being able to flip a switch.

Here is a good covered ANL fuse holder on Amazon for $4: Amazon.com: Earthquake Sound ANL Fuse Block/Holder with 100A ANL Fuse: Car Electronics

And here are some extra fuses on Amazon for $4: Amazon.com: Absolute ANL100-2, 2 Pack ANL Fuses 100 Amp Gold Plated: Car Electronics

So you would get a fuse holder and a total of 3 fuses for under $10.

After doing the project here are a couple suggestions/recommendations:
1) Try to run as few wires as possible from the roof through the hole you have circled above. For my 4 PIAA lights, I ran 5 wires from the roof to the engine bay: 4 power wires (1 for each light) and 1 common ground for all the lights. In hindsight I could have simplified it even further and only run 3 wires because I am only using 2 relays and have 2 lights on each relay.
2) I would recommend using some sort of connector so you can remove the lights/roof rack if you ever have to. I didn't think I would ever have to remove mine, but the first time I did, it paid for itself. Check out the Sure Seal connectors I referenced in the thread above, they're great!

I hope this helps. Good luck!

That helps a ton! I hadn't seen your other thread, but that will surely be helpful. I'll add a link to it in the first post. Thanks!

I'll grab that ANL fuse holder and those fuses, thanks for the links.

And I hadn't even thought of having to take the roof rack off down the road haha. I'll look into those Sure Seal connectors. And I'll try and loop all the grounds together, and loop together the power wires for all the ones that I can to minimize the number of wires I have to run through the roof.

How do i upload a power point file i got from a class in school to this site? i think it would help you guys a lot.

If hrt isn't able to do it, I can upload it on here for you.

 

[drabbits]

:snacker:

 

[Ol'Blue]

I'm coming over to help buddy.

 

[Kraze]

I'm coming over to help buddy.

Sounds good man.

I ordered everything yesterday, so it should be arriving within the next week or two. [MENTION=68079]drabbits[/MENTION] is going to be starting work on my rack pretty soon here too, so everything is moving right along :bigok: