In over my head--roof rack lights wiring questions

Sorry I wasn't able to respond earlier. It looks like most of your questions were answered. I'm certainly no electronics expert, but let me know if you have any specific questions for me. Good luck with your project. I look forward to seeing the finished product.
 
here's some info on relays that will come in handy

0ef41c81-2443-4a0b-aaf3-0f56b220bf6f_zpscf6b8442.jpg~original
 
All the supplies are in. The wiring starts today. And on that note, [MENTION=62779]Kurtis[/MENTION], I have a question about the following picture:

kurtis-albums-more+stuff-picture15034-20121110-204140.jpg


All the way on the left of that terminal board, where all the blue wires are going to, is that how you looped all the grounds together? And outside of the pocket to the left, there's what looks a ring terminal connected to a blue wire under one of the pocket mounting screws--is that where you grounded them?

I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to loop all the ground wires together, and the easiest way to loop all the 12v power for the switch led's together.

And while we have that picture here, how did you attach the relays to the back of the pocket? I was thinking mounting tape, but if you had some other ingenious solution that you used, I'll probably want to steal that from you as well :D
 
All the supplies are in. The wiring starts today. And on that note, [MENTION=62779]Kurtis[/MENTION], I have a question about the following picture:

kurtis-albums-more+stuff-picture15034-20121110-204140.jpg


All the way on the left of that terminal board, where all the blue wires are going to, is that how you looped all the grounds together? And outside of the pocket to the left, there's what looks a ring terminal connected to a blue wire under one of the pocket mounting screws--is that where you grounded them?

I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to loop all the ground wires together, and the easiest way to loop all the 12v power for the switch led's together.

And while we have that picture here, how did you attach the relays to the back of the pocket? I was thinking mounting tape, but if you had some other ingenious solution that you used, I'll probably want to steal that from you as well :D

Yes, that is the ground on the left side. The ground is only for the control of turn on portion of the relays. They don't take very much amps at all so ground there is fine. You are correct again, I ran another wire out of the pocket to the frame of the pocket/radio.

I didn't want to run an ass ton of wire around the truck so I kept the relays in the dash. To mount them I used a 2 part epoxy. Relays don't normally go bad but it's not unheard of if they do. I did it to save space. If one goes bad I'll just deal with it. It is possible for relays to get warm but it should not be a problem for the job they do. And every thing I have power to is on a fuse so any issue will pop a fuse before it causes problems.
 
Ok, the wiring of the switches and relays is done. I just need to put it all back into the 4runner, run all the wires to the correct locations and install the Blue Sea fuse block now.

Here's a sort-of kinda writeup of the wiring process (picture heavy):

You're going to want to start off by clearing out a good place to work at. I didn't have a good place to work at, so the kitchen table would have to do:



Next step, get some helpers. Here's my two:





Now you can finally get started. First step for me, was dremeling out the din pocket to fit the switches. I marked up some lines where I needed to cut on some painters tape I put on the pocket, and went to town.

Here you can (kind of) see that the switches won't fit inside the pocket:



And here's the pocket all cut out, and you can see the switches now fit:





The cuts might not be pretty, but you won't be able to see them once everything is installed.

Also, I cut out a big portion of the bottom of the din pocket, but I didn't snap any pictures of that process. Basically, just cut out a big square or rectangle on the bottom of the pocket, not complicated at all.

Now you can start wiring. I put the switches and terminal board into the pocket, about where I thought they would sit when they were done, then marked how far away the switch connections were from the terminal board on some painters tape I had stuck to the table. This allowed me to wire things up with them out of the din pocket, and still get the wire lengths about right:



Here you can see the ground connections are almost all wired up, and I'm starting to wire up the power for the switches as well. There's two grounds for each switch, so I just jumpered the terminal so I can have just one ground wire coming from each switch, seen here:



All the ground terminals wired up, all the power terminals wired up, and you can see my failed soldering attempt here as well. I really, really suck at soldering apparently, so everything was just crimped on:



At this point, your helpers will probably have abandoned you:



And you will have probably drank all the beer, causing you to resort to drastic measures, like mixing together whatever is left in the fridge:



But a job like this takes patience and perseverance, so you must push on.

I finally got all the ground, power, and the terminals that controls when the LEDs in the switch will come on wired up and connected to the terminal board, and put it back in the din pocket to make sure everything still fit. At first, it did just not want to fit. I probably got some of the wire lengths wrong, and the whole things was stiff. I finally bent some wires out of the way, and came to the conclusion that I wasn't going to be able to screw the terminal board in to the pocket to make everything all nice and tidy, but that was fine with me at this point.

You can see here that the terminal board sticks out a bit above (or what will be below) the pocket, but a test fit proved that this will still slide into the space in the dash with no issues:



Once everything had been tested out in the 4runner, and I knew it would fit the way it was, I took it back out to finish up the wiring. Here's an explanation of the following picture.

The top two terminals on the board are for the switches power, which is going to come from an add-a-circuit on the horns/hazard fuse, and you can see they're jumpered together on the other side so I have just one wire for all of them.

The third terminal up from the bottom is the dimmer switch terminal. I was able to squeeze all six of the wires into two 10-12 gauge ring terminals, so there was no need to jumper that one.

The bottom two are the ground ones, and those are also jumpered together so I can have just one wire for all of the ground, which will be connected to the mounting bracket, like Kurtis did.



And by now, this was already an incredibly long project, so the picture-taking really slowed down, but here's a picture of it with all the relays wired up:



And that's it. Everything is wired up, ready to install into the 4runner now, and I hope it all works! If anyone sees anything I did wrong, now would be a good time to tell me, before it all goes back together.

Also, a trained eye might spot the fact that not all of the terminals are the same. The terminal all the way to the right in the last picture is an SPDT terminal. That one will control the 2wd low mod, and so it will be wired up to the Normally Closed terminal on there, since I want the switch to break the connection between them when I flip it, not the other way around.
 
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At the start of this project, if someone had offered to do all the wiring and installation of the switches and relays for a couple hundred bucks, I would have said no thanks, I think I got this.

Knowing what I know now, I would say:

kYmqQ1H.jpg


Here's a list of things I've managed to screw up today:

The HVAC lights don't come on anymore, or any lights in that center dash piece for that matter.

The key fob will not lock the doors anymore, it just makes a long beeeeeeep and does nothing.

And my gauge lights now do not work, although that might be from me trying to replace the bulbs in them again, but still, I'm counting it with the rest of them.

On the plus, I know the lights for the switches come on with the headlights. I must have really f'ed things up somewhere though. And another plus, the 4runner has not burned down yet. But speaking of that, I'm going to go unplug the battery again just in case.
 
your wiring looks awesome! but i never want to do that lol, its so simple but so dumbfounding at the same time. and chasing electrical gremlins, well, it is what it is.
 
LOL! 'A' for effort man.:D
Thats a lot to tackle!!
I wouldn't have had a glue where to start, I only found the inside fuse box this year! Awesome job on this write up, most definitely be using this as a guide when I light up my runner.
 
Haha thanks guys, I'm glad the wiring at least looks good. The verdict is still out on whether it will actually work or not though. I still have to install the fuse block and run the wires into the engine bay, then I can test out the lights to make sure everything works. That would have been done yesterday, but I got distracted trying to get my gauge lights working again, stupid things :rant:. Good thing I have the torque app now--that's going to be the only way I can tell how fast I'm going at night now that I won't be able to see my gauges!

[MENTION=62779]Kurtis[/MENTION], [MENTION=55891]Bandit Runner[/MENTION], [MENTION=82275]4ever4running[/MENTION], or whoever else knows more than slightly less than nothing about electrical issues: To make the switches LEDs come on with the headlights, I cut the green wire for the connector that I thought was to my old cigarette lighter light, which I had broken awhile ago when I did the LED swap. I left the other wire connected to that connector though. And from the green wire, I went to a 10A fuse and then to the wire that goes to the terminal board for the switches. The LEDs do come on for the switches when the headlights are switched on now, but I'm wondering if what I did with that green wire was a no-no? Could that make the rest of the lights in that center portion, like the HVAC lights, not come on anymore, and somehow make the key fob not want to lock it?
 
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[MENTION=62779]Kurtis[/MENTION], [MENTION=55891]Bandit Runner[/MENTION], [MENTION=82275]4ever4running[/MENTION], or whoever else knows more than slightly less than nothing about electrical issues: To make the switches LEDs come on with the headlights, I cut the green wire for the connector that I thought was to my old cigarette lighter light, which I had broken awhile ago when I did the LED swap. I left the other wire connected to that connector though. And from the green wire, I went to a 10A fuse and then to the wire that goes to the terminal board for the switches. The LEDs do come on for the switches when the headlights are switched on now, but I'm wondering if what I did with that green wire was a no-no? Could that make the rest of the lights in that center portion, like the HVAC lights, not come on anymore, and somehow make the key fob not want to lock it?

You should be just fine. I actually broke my cigarette light connector when I did the LED swap too, so I just left a bulb out but all of the other HVAC, etc. lights still worked.

The best comparison I can make is to Christmas lights: Our trucks are like the new Christmas light strands where if one bulb goes out, the rest of the strand doesn't go out. Much better when compared to the old ones where if one bulb goes out, the entire strand goes out and you have to test each individual bulb to figure out which one went out.
 
Thanks for the reassurance. The only reason I was thinking that might be it, is because that's the only thing I can think of that I did that had anything to do with any of those lights in that area. I'm going to tear into it again later on today to see if I can figure it out.

Between those lights and the gauge lights, I have probably taken the various dash pieces apart 15+ times in one day trying to track down these problems haha.
 
Nice! This would have been a little easier if I would have made a box. I had to trim that dash piece to get mine to fit in there.

Question for you, or anyone else that's done roof rack lights: where did you ground the lights at? I know I want the shortest possible ground, but I can't think of anything closer than somewhere in the engine bay to ground them?
 
...
Here's a list of things I've managed to screw up today:

The HVAC lights don't come on anymore, or any lights in that center dash piece for that matter.

The key fob will not lock the doors anymore, it just makes a long beeeeeeep and does nothing.

And my gauge lights now do not work, although that might be from me trying to replace the bulbs in them again, but still, I'm counting it with the rest of them.

On the plus, I know the lights for the switches come on with the headlights. I must have really f'ed things up somewhere though. And another plus, the 4runner has not burned down yet. But speaking of that, I'm going to go unplug the battery again just in case.

Sounds like where you tapped into the power for the switch lights is now allowing the 12v to bypass your dash lights circuit. I'd try finding another source for this signal. Can you tell us where or what wire to tapped into for this?
 
Sounds like where you tapped into the power for the switch lights is now allowing the 12v to bypass your dash lights circuit. I'd try finding another source for this signal. Can you tell us where or what wire to tapped into for this?

I'll snap a picture for you guys when I get off work and get it all torn apart again. I thought it was the cigarette lighters light that I tapped into, but who knows lol.
 
[MENTION=91297]Kraze[/MENTION],
You can ground them to the bar behind the dash.

I plan on running an 8 ga wire to somewhere. Lol.
 
I just might do that! A couple more wires I don't have to run through the firewall, I'll take it!

And [MENTION=81700]OrangeTexan[/MENTION], here's a picture of what wire I cut to get the lights to come on for the switches with the headlights:

KM5Y61z.jpg


Anyone have any clue what that other wire is that's still connected to that connector? it's white with a green stripe.
 
OK good. That is at least the correct connector. However you should verify that the green wire is the positive wire. I'd don't see how you would have lights at your switches if it were not, but I would double check just to be sure. Do your switch lights dim when you adjust the gauge dimmer?

Ohh, and the other wire will of course be a ground.

Also - have you checked to see if your roof rack is connected to ground? Even if it is not, it should be fairly simple to run a short wire from the rack to one of the mounting bolts which should definitely be connected to chassis ground. Then you just ground your lights to the rack.
 

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