Is an electric fan worth doing?

Just get a dual temp switch(bmw), a dual speed fan controller (Volvo) and a Ford fan... They move major CFM especially when the shroud is properly modded to fit the radiator.

It's really an easy conversion and most guys are upgrading their alternator anyways for auxiliary lighting and accessories, so really it's not like you can attribute that cost to this conversion alone.

I did one on my 81 Datsun 4x4 and made a world of difference in cooling. Especially for a truck that is known for blowing heads at even moderately high temps, I couldn't risk getting screwed on a low speed trail.

Here's the build thread for that one with full links for the build(easily ported to the 4Runner) and the origin threadI gleaned most my own into from.

Affordable and effective electric fan conversion! - 720 - Ratsun Forums...

The demand for cooling efficiency over stock may not be so stark on the 4Runner, but the benefits in freed power and having both automated and manual control over the fan are real.
 
It's funny how people with electric fan only vehicles want to convert to clutch drive cooling fans for piece of mind and clutch drive equipped people want to remove them for electric cooling fans.


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It's funny how people with electric fan only vehicles want to convert to clutch drive cooling fans for piece of mind and clutch drive equipped people want to remove them for electric cooling fans.


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That just tells me that neither setup is ideal.
 
That just tells me that neither setup is ideal.
Its a grass is greener kinda thing

Truth is either solution will work when implemented properly. That's a subjective statement.

To do an electric cooling fan (system) you need proper controls, correct CFM fans and shrouds, sensors, and upgraded power/wiring. It's not a low-cost bolt on.

Same can be said about factory clutched fans on a vehicle that exceeds the intended performance design spec. By doing more with our vehicles (bigger tires, heavier bumpers and gear = weight, extreme conditions) we are taxing a cooling system meant for regular day driving and occasional 4x use.

For a stock vehicle under typical (expected) operating conditions the factory clutched fan works fine.

If you wanna go electric, by all means do, but you should understand what the responsibility you are taking on is and what all is involved.

That is really all there is to be said about this. Debate HP all you want, idgaf, just do it right and don't nuke your vehicle.

:flame me now:

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That just tells me that neither setup is ideal.



For perspective on my comment, the particular setup I'm referring to are overly complex with PWM relays to make a eFan variable speed. Many components to fail causing a overheat situation. Plus they all are in the 180,000 mile range when a problem arises. IMO a clutch drive fan just works.


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It's funny how people with electric fan only vehicles want to convert to clutch drive cooling fans for piece of mind and clutch drive equipped people want to remove them for electric cooling fans.


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there is truth to that.
ive got a v8 swapped Toyota truck. currently running an E fan. its just barely adequate. im in the process of building a new engine for it, but this one will allow me to run an engine driven clutch fan. I cant wait!
 
For perspective on my comment, the particular setup I'm referring to are overly complex with PWM relays to make a eFan variable speed. Many components to fail causing a overheat situation. Plus they all are in the 180,000 mile range when a problem arises. IMO a clutch drive fan just works.


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That's why you use a dual speed control relay out of a Volvo... It's not gonna go out like radio shack relays.... It's out of a frikin Volvo, lol.



Really though, the best way to make a functional fan setup is from other reliable systems and stock fans built for cars with small grill openings up front that pull major cfms...

Luckily, most of this homework has already been done by others and Put into real life application many times over... It just takes a small search.
 
i have looked into this before. and then i looked at how i drove the 4runner 99+% of the time.

engine masters is great. i love seeing actual data and figures to compare.

on all the fans, they were pretty damn close at the beginning of the dyno run.
they started the dyno run at 3,000RPM and went from there.

idk about you, but thats where i spend most of my time in the truck. at around 3,000rpm or so.

so for me, it wasnt worth it.
 
i have looked into this before. and then i looked at how i drove the 4runner 99+% of the time.

engine masters is great. i love seeing actual data and figures to compare.

on all the fans, they were pretty damn close at the beginning of the dyno run.
they started the dyno run at 3,000RPM and went from there.

idk about you, but thats where i spend most of my time in the truck. at around 3,000rpm or so.

so for me, it wasnt worth it.

That's... a good point.

I was thinking of doing this, till I realized I rarely go over 4k RPMs. I'll romp on it a little, but I don't "drag race it" all over town.

That must be why so many have said it doesn't make a difference, since you'd have to put it in a racing engine to actually see benefits.
 
An alternator producing 300 amps will take much much more HP to turn than an alternator making 70 amps. Energy is never free.
 
there is truth to that.
ive got a v8 swapped Toyota truck. currently running an E fan. its just barely adequate. im in the process of building a new engine for it, but this one will allow me to run an engine driven clutch fan. I cant wait!
just a little update, after using the truck for a bit. I LOVE the new set up. the new engine is making nearly double the power of the old one, yet it stays cool. in fact the hottest I have seen it is 200°, and that's with a 195° thermostat.
 
just a little update, after using the truck for a bit. I LOVE the new set up. the new engine is making nearly double the power of the old one, yet it stays cool. in fact the hottest I have seen it is 200°, and that's with a 195° thermostat.

I swapped in an electric fan setup a couple of weeks ago. I got a bump of about 15 miles out of a tank of gas. I will be posting a vid and a little writeup in my build thread but... with decent quality components and a good quality fan controller there is some efficiency gains from an electric fan for sure.
 
I swapped in an electric fan setup a couple of weeks ago. I got a bump of about 15 miles out of a tank of gas. I will be posting a vid and a little writeup in my build thread but... with decent quality components and a good quality fan controller there is some efficiency gains from an electric fan for sure.



What is your system voltage a idle in gear with lights on fan on and your foot on the brake? I thought about this but with only a 70 or 80 amp ALT and my system voltage at 12.8-13.1v at idle in the above condition a cooling fan will pull it down to the mid 12’s without a higher output Alt. Let alone using the AC with fan on max speed.


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What is your system voltage a idle in gear with lights on fan on and your foot on the brake? I thought about this but with only a 70 or 80 amp ALT and my system voltage at 12.8-13.1v at idle in the above condition a cooling fan will pull it down to the mid 12’s without a higher output Alt. Let alone using the AC with fan on max speed.


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Yes, a larger alternator is almost always necessary. I tried it on my stock alt and it died in a month after installing my electric van. It pulls about 22 amps at full speed, so yeah it's not enough current.

The CS-144 alternator swap is pretty straightforward, only hard part is getting the alternator in position. You can buy an adapter off Ebay.
 
My electric fan has been a dreamy setup. Cools WAY better than stock and AC system blows much colder in traffic.

the argument about having to pull power from either crank or alt is valid. However, my electric does not turn on at all on the highway and I picked up a full 2 mpg hwy. not kidding. I document every fill up and it was more than I expected.

Hard to say the fuel efficiency is enough reason to do the swap. Lot of effort and money to improve a stock system that already worked okay. But fan has so much muscle left I have zero worries about harshest conditions which is what I wanted.

PWM variable speed is the way to go, it’s Very easy on the electrical system and keeps very steady temp instead of cycling. Just be sure to shroud well to get most out of fan, and have electrical system that can handle full speed if it ever needs it.

Just putting a flex-a-lite on with fin probe switch is asking for trouble. Not that easy.
 
Yes I would do it for a MPG improvement only. I have a new fan clutch assembly now but really thought about the electric fan before I replaced the fan clutch. Now my AC is back to cold at idle on a hot summer day in traffic.


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What is your system voltage a idle in gear with lights on fan on and your foot on the brake? I thought about this but with only a 70 or 80 amp ALT and my system voltage at 12.8-13.1v at idle in the above condition a cooling fan will pull it down to the mid 12’s without a higher output Alt. Let alone using the AC with fan on max speed.


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I swapped this one into mine.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3263445-post123.html

honestly I have not put an amp clamp on it to see with full load but for the last 3 weeks or so everything has been fine and the battery is fully charged so 160 amps seems good. agreed I don't think the stock alternator would handle it very well. it's not a cheap route $300 alternator, $200 for fan shroud with spal fans... wire... connectors... $200 controller, sensor, Water Temp Sender Manifold $30. it all adds up pretty quickly but I'm glad I did it. plus install was a huge hassle, as always.
 
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