jam23r1's Runner build

limamike said:
If the truck is running then both batteries should be connected to the alternator.
Click to expand...

Depends on the dual battery controller/management system. Most isolators are designed to prevent over charging/discharging. Some systems do not "link" batteries in parallel.

For example, if all of your accessories are attached to the aux battery, then it (controller) doesn't allow the main battery to drain. If your vehicle is running and all batteries are fully charged, then it (controller) should isolate the batteries. Meaning, the alternator is only providing a charge for the main while the aux is isolated. The means less stress on the alternator. I think this is how the IBS system us designed. There are other features as well. Correct me if I'm wrong [MENTION=62008]limamike[/MENTION]. I know you have extensive knowledge with charging systems now with your trailer.

As far as the dual system I'm running (Kodiak), I have a solenoid that is manually switched to connect batteries or not. I leave it in the always on parallel. So my batteries are always connected when the vehicle is running. They are isolated when vehicle is off. The third position of the 3 pole switch allows for self jumpstarting.
 
Ducmonsta said:
Depends on the dual battery controller/management system. Most isolators are designed to prevent over charging/discharging. Some systems do not "link" batteries in parallel.

For example, if all of your accessories are attached to the aux battery, then it (controller) doesn't allow the main battery to drain. If your vehicle is running and all batteries are fully charged, then it (controller) should isolate the batteries. Meaning, the alternator is only providing a charge for the main while the aux is isolated. The means less stress on the alternator. I think this is how the IBS system us designed. There are other features as well. Correct me if I'm wrong [MENTION=62008]limamike[/MENTION]. I know you have extensive knowledge with charging systems now with your trailer.

As far as the dual system I'm running (Kodiak), I have a solenoid that is manually switched to connect batteries or not. I leave it in the always on parallel. So my batteries are always connected when the vehicle is running. They are isolated when vehicle is off. The third position of the 3 pole switch allows for self jumpstarting.
Click to expand...

The IBS should always have both batteries in parallel while the vehicle is running (and thus connecting the alternator to both), and it automatically disconnects and isolates both batteries after the vehicle is shutoff. The IBS has a "manual link" button that allows you directly link the two batteries to increase amperage in high strain activities like winching. It also has a feature that allows you to completely isolate both batteries while the vehicle is running if desired. Sounds very similar to the Kodiak system where the third pole is the "manual link" present in the IBS.

In either case, you are correct, you will theoretically get more amperage by being connected directly to the main starter battery. The point that [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] mentioned before about different battery construction between the deep cycle and the regular starter battery is a factor as well: you're going to get higher amps (assuming you have a deep cycle as your auxiliary) from the starter battery. But, I've never seen anyone with hard numbers to show what the difference in amperage actually is.

You guys (High Tech) wired my winch to the main, but I've since changed it because I do a lot of offroading by myself. My feeling is that I'd rather have one battery available to get the truck running again than run both down trying to recover myself. Running truck means heat/air-conditioning and the ability to recharge batteries while I formulate a plan! I could be completely sideways on that, but no one has presented a compelling argument for me to switch!
 
eddiebx said:
Hey, not sure if this is true, but I remember reading that you shouldn't wire the winch to the aux battery and that it is better to hook it to the main instead? I never really looked into it past that because I don't have a winch, lol. Maybe if I were you I would research a little bit more just to see which way is the preferred method before you start wiring the winch :)
Click to expand...

limamike said:
This depends heavily on what you have wired to what. The theory is that if you wire to your main and run-down the battery you'll still have your auxiliary to help jump the main. However, that's assuming you've got all of your accessories wired to your main. My feeling is that if you have your accessories wired to your auxiliary battery then stick with that as the source of power for ALL accessories.
Click to expand...

limamike said:
If the truck is running then both batteries should be connected to the alternator.
Click to expand...

Ducmonsta said:
Depends on the dual battery controller/management system. Most isolators are designed to prevent over charging/discharging. Some systems do not "link" batteries in parallel.

For example, if all of your accessories are attached to the aux battery, then it (controller) doesn't allow the main battery to drain. If your vehicle is running and all batteries are fully charged, then it (controller) should isolate the batteries. Meaning, the alternator is only providing a charge for the main while the aux is isolated. The means less stress on the alternator. I think this is how the IBS system us designed. There are other features as well. Correct me if I'm wrong [MENTION=62008]limamike[/MENTION]. I know you have extensive knowledge with charging systems now with your trailer.

As far as the dual system I'm running (Kodiak), I have a solenoid that is manually switched to connect batteries or not. I leave it in the always on parallel. So my batteries are always connected when the vehicle is running. They are isolated when vehicle is off. The third position of the 3 pole switch allows for self jumpstarting.
Click to expand...

limamike said:
The IBS should always have both batteries in parallel while the vehicle is running (and thus connecting the alternator to both), and it automatically disconnects and isolates both batteries after the vehicle is shutoff. The IBS has a "manual link" button that allows you directly link the two batteries to increase amperage in high strain activities like winching. It also has a feature that allows you to completely isolate both batteries while the vehicle is running if desired. Sounds very similar to the Kodiak system where the third pole is the "manual link" present in the IBS.

In either case, you are correct, you will theoretically get more amperage by being connected directly to the main starter battery. The point that [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] mentioned before about different battery construction between the deep cycle and the regular starter battery is a factor as well: you're going to get higher amps (assuming you have a deep cycle as your auxiliary) from the starter battery. But, I've never seen anyone with hard numbers to show what the difference in amperage actually is.

You guys (High Tech) wired my winch to the main, but I've since changed it because I do a lot of offroading by myself. My feeling is that I'd rather have one battery available to get the truck running again than run both down trying to recover myself. Running truck means heat/air-conditioning and the ability to recharge batteries while I formulate a plan! I could be completely sideways on that, but no one has presented a compelling argument for me to switch!
Click to expand...

wow I have brain over load. thanks guys.
 
so what's next for my Runner is to fully up armor it with bud build full skids and rock rails. was going to go with 285's and air lockers too but I'm being deployed to Korea in April. and when I get back its off to Colorado for me! so I know my wife wont be wheeling my Runner so ill wait till I get back for that. :laser:
 
jam23r1 said:
so what's next for my Runner is to fully up armor it with bud build full skids and rock rails. was going to go with 285's and air lockers too but I'm being deployed to Korea in April. and when I get back its off to Colorado for me! so I know my wife wont be wheeling my Runner so ill wait till I get back for that. :laser:
Click to expand...

Thank you for your service! Stay safe sir :usa2:
 
jam23r1 said:
night shot
Click to expand...

Looks good!

Have you given any thought to getting a light bar for those LEDs instead of mounting them on the roof that far back? LED lighting lux rapidly decreases as distance from the light source grows. So, even though they look super bright now, they could be even better if you mount them further toward and in front of your vision.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
limamike said:
Looks good!

Have you given any thought to getting a light bar for those LEDs instead of mounting them on the roof that far back? LED lighting lux rapidly decreases as distance from the light source grows. So, even though they look super bright now, they could be even better if you mount them further toward and in front of your vision.
Click to expand...

yes I did. but I'm not looking to Baja it and I have 2 more I'm putting down by my fog lights, for trail riding its grate! used them over my last trip and omg it lite up the whole trail. and with two more lights to add its more then enough light. but thanks for the input!
 
so just fyi I'm not dead lol. I got sent to Korea for a year and just have not been vary active here.
 
hey everyone got about 70 days left in Korea. Then me and the family are moving from Fort Eustis VA to Fort Carson CA :party:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 329 (members: 3, guests: 326)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,078
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top