JBA UCA post install thoughts - boot not fitting right?

Man looks like everyone is having issues with this boot. So weird thing, I know I posted the pic of it seated properly after 2nd washer and a drive around the block. Everything looked great. However, just the other day I lifted my front end check my brakes and after I dropped it, it was back to the "not-as-bad-with-1-washer" mode but not fully seated. I drove around and it's the same. I drove from San Diego to Sacramento for work and I'll have to go out to check to see if it's seated better... but yeh, it totally seated fine as the pic showed.

I wonder if there is another 3rd party boot we could use? If this is a GM ball joint, could we use a GM ball joint boot?
 
joshik said:
Man looks like everyone is having issues with this boot. So weird thing, I know I posted the pic of it seated properly after 2nd washer and a drive around the block. Everything looked great. However, just the other day I lifted my front end check my brakes and after I dropped it, it was back to the "not-as-bad-with-1-washer" mode but not fully seated. I drove around and it's the same. I drove from San Diego to Sacramento for work and I'll have to go out to check to see if it's seated better... but yeh, it totally seated fine as the pic showed.

I wonder if there is another 3rd party boot we could use? If this is a GM ball joint, could we use a GM ball joint boot?
Click to expand...

Yeah it's weird, mine is better with the second washer, but it never has seated...
 
joshik said:
I wonder if there is another 3rd party boot we could use? If this is a GM ball joint, could we use a GM ball joint boot?
Click to expand...

This is not a GM ball joint. This is the JBA in-house high articulation ball joint. If you want to replace it with the GM/Moog part you'll be unbolting the current one from the arm and replacing the entire ball-joint assembly I am pretty sure. I wish the boot actually sealed the JBA unit, from appearances it is a stout part and looks like it would last a long time if you could actually seal/protect it. That said - I have been running mine with the single washer for the past couple of years on my daily through all the salt and mud in New England and I haven't had any issues. The only thing I've done is grease the piss out of them.
 
adkfinn said:
This is not a GM ball joint. This is the JBA in-house high articulation ball joint. If you want to replace it with the GM/Moog part you'll be unbolting the current one from the arm and replacing the entire ball-joint assembly I am pretty sure. I wish the boot actually sealed the JBA unit, from appearances it is a stout part and looks like it would last a long time if you could actually seal/protect it. That said - I have been running mine with the single washer for the past couple of years on my daily through all the salt and mud in New England and I haven't had any issues. The only thing I've done is grease the piss out of them.
Click to expand...

It actually is a GM 3/4 ton ball joint, they don't use a special in house solution, which is another reason why people like them.

From JBA's site -

JBA Ball Joint replaces:

AC/Delco #45D0062

Raybestos #500-1062

Moog #K6292

GM 3/4 ton truck ball joint
 
@ Drift Monkey: No extra washer, I haven't heard of this on the Tundra forum so I figured I would throw it together as shipped.
 
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So i wonder whats going on, i need some new UCA and i was gonna pull the trigger on the JBA but dont wanna deal with a boot not seating correctly only for them to redesign one later in a couple months. Should i message Marlin before purchasing and clarifying >?
 
Bernardchan96 said:
So i wonder whats going on, i need some new UCA and i was gonna pull the trigger on the JBA but dont wanna deal with a boot not seating correctly only for them to redesign one later in a couple months. Should i message Marlin before purchasing and clarifying >?
Click to expand...

Do it, he didn't even mention a boot redesign to me.

Maybe ask him if he'll ship the new boots under warranty after the fact.
 
Drift Monkey said:
It actually is a GM 3/4 ton ball joint, they don't use a special in house solution, which is another reason why people like them.

From JBA's site -

JBA Ball Joint replaces:

AC/Delco #45D0062

Raybestos #500-1062

Moog #K6292

GM 3/4 ton truck ball joint
Click to expand...

That info was correct at one point. JBA now uses their own ball joint, which is the one that has the iffy boot we are all talking about.

I believe Marlin is trying to indicate that his joint is compatible with those other parts/fitments. These arms used to be offered with the Moog joint, before they developed their own in-house design with higher articulation, there were even pics comparing Uniball, Moog/standard, and then the new JBA part when it first launched, not sure where they went now. Rest assured, the part on your truck is unique to JBA.
 
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adkfinn said:
That info was correct at one point. JBA now uses their own ball joint, which is the one that has the iffy boot we are all talking about.

I believe Marlin is trying to indicate that his joint is compatible with those other parts/fitments. These arms used to be offered with the Moog joint, before they developed their own in-house design with higher articulation, there were even pics comparing Uniball, Moog/standard, and then the new JBA part when it first launched, not sure where they went now. Rest assured, the part on your truck is unique to JBA.
Click to expand...

Yeah, for ultimate clarity: Their ball joint is compatible with 3/4 ton GM, but it is not an off-the-shelf GM 3/4 ton. It appears these are machined in house or at least designed in house. This has been the case for quite a while. I got my JBAs at least 2 years ago and have the JBA-made joint, but mine arms are painted instead of cerakote. I also have an ill-fitting boot fwiw.

You could buy a JBA ball joint and put it on your 3/4 ton GM truck, and you can buy a 3/4 ton GM compatible ball joint to put on your JBA UCA as a trail fix, etc.

It appears that they also use this same boot and joint on all their UCAs, which may be the reason for the slightly imperfect boot fit. The thickness of the knuckle mount may be different between Tundras, Tacomas, Wranglers, etc.. Our 4Runners look to be slightly beyond the tolerances for just one set of washers.
 
Drift Monkey said:
It looks beyond the tolerances for 2 sets of washers lol.
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Yeah Marlin said they are throwing in an extra set of washers for each order now, im looking to lift around 2.5-3" in the near future so i hope its something that can be resolved. I dont wanna go from my leaking balljoint on OEM uca to leaking ball joints on aftermarket lol
 
Just installed my JBA uppers tonight and they came with 2 washers per ball joint. The boot might not fully seat when you first torque the ball joint nut but once you take a test drive, it’ll pop in place. It was a lot easier than I thought it’d be to install.

The only fitment issue is the knuckle has a spur near the top that sticks out towards the tire and it’s close to the tire. It may be 1/2” or 3/4” between it and the tire sidewall. No contact though so no problem
 
hetzler_l33 said:
Just installed my JBA uppers tonight and they came with 2 washers per ball joint. The boot might not fully seat when you first torque the ball joint nut but once you take a test drive, it’ll pop in place. It was a lot easier than I thought it’d be to install.

The only fitment issue is the knuckle has a spur near the top that sticks out towards the tire and it’s close to the tire. It may be 1/2” or 3/4” between it and the tire sidewall. No contact though so no problem
Click to expand...

Mine did not pop into place.
 
Drift Monkey said:
~2.5" up front.
Click to expand...


Interesting, how long have they been mounted before you got the second washer?

Maybe the boots have taken form if it’s been a few months. Could try spinning the boot if you take the ball joint stud loose from the knuckle. If it’s not bothering you then I wouldn’t go through the trouble lol
 
hetzler_l33 said:
Interesting, how long have they been mounted before you got the second washer?

Maybe the boots have taken form if it’s been a few months. Could try spinning the boot if you take the ball joint stud loose from the knuckle. If it’s not bothering you then I wouldn’t go through the trouble lol
Click to expand...

Maybe a month at best before I added the second washer. It's better now but there is still a slight gap. I'm gonna leave it for now and keep greasing until it seeps, but it still bothers me lol.
 
Drift Monkey said:
Maybe a month at best before I added the second washer. It's better now but there is still a slight gap. I'm gonna leave it for now and keep greasing until it seeps, but it still bothers me lol.
Click to expand...


I gotcha. Mine has a tiny tiny gap where the grease will squeeze out but it’s better than the gap with one washer. The grease should keep most of the contaminants out of the joint.

It bothers me too, but it can’t always be perfect lol
 
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