Jerod's Supercharged T[u]RD Build
- Thread starter gamefreakgc
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Yeah that would make it about $31 a hp. Here's to hoping it lives up to the hype!
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Here goes nothing!
Getting ready for a timing belt job, and decided to put on a lightweight crankshaft pulley and performance cams just 'cause. Those are actually the cores, not the real deal. I'll try and do some comparison photos of the lobe positions when I swap them out for my stock ones.
Getting ready for a timing belt job, and decided to put on a lightweight crankshaft pulley and performance cams just 'cause. Those are actually the cores, not the real deal. I'll try and do some comparison photos of the lobe positions when I swap them out for my stock ones.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
That would be a great comparison, I don't think I've ever seen a dyno sheet for a supercharged 3RZ. They are so rare as it is!
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Just got off the phone with Geoff over in Canada with Colt Cams. What a nice guy, he really spelled out the process and how the cams perform. Should work well even with emissions testing since they are not overly aggressive at low RPM's.
Cost is $600 plus shipping both ways, so about $700 total. Not bad for 4 camshafts really, considering they run about $250-$500 each new for other engines! Mine will be out in the mail tomorrow!
P.S. The grind profile I'm getting is the 262* cams, he also sells a 292* full-out race engine cam! Probably not what many on here are looking for but you never know!
Cost is $600 plus shipping both ways, so about $700 total. Not bad for 4 camshafts really, considering they run about $250-$500 each new for other engines! Mine will be out in the mail tomorrow!
P.S. The grind profile I'm getting is the 262* cams, he also sells a 292* full-out race engine cam! Probably not what many on here are looking for but you never know!
phattyduck
Elite Member
How much lift on the cams? (stock and with the new cams)
I had 272* cams on my built WRX motor and it still idled fairly well and passed smog with a single cat (out of the stock 3). That car has to be tested at idle (no load), which is a more difficult test. I have a feeling you'll be just fine, just get that tuning right.
-Charlie
I had 272* cams on my built WRX motor and it still idled fairly well and passed smog with a single cat (out of the stock 3). That car has to be tested at idle (no load), which is a more difficult test. I have a feeling you'll be just fine, just get that tuning right.
-Charlie
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I do not have stock specs, I cannot find the specs anywhere.
The 262* have .347 lift on the intake, and .330 on the exhaust. He said they were made for supercharged/turbo'd engines specifically to allow more airflow in/out and keep temperatures lower.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I've been fighting "combustion quench" when too much water enters at low RPM's. Sometimes when I really stomp on it, I hit 7-8 PSI at 2500 RPM and the engine will buck as cylinders don't fire due to too much water. I have my methanol controller to turn on around 6 PSI, but it's still there.
I will be adding a bottle or two of HEET to the Boost Juice I use to get the mix up to more like 60/40 meth/water or even 66/33 since I am running too much water for my engine. Other users have reported similar things and run straight methanol, but I'd be wary of engine fires if anything went wrong so keeping the water content higher. If I take 2/3 a gallon of Boost Juice and fill it to the top with HEET, I'll have a 66% methanol content so easy to measure too.
Speaking of fuel, I read a fantastic set of articles comparing meth injection to race fuels. They even tested an "octane booster" that delivered great results as well! All backed up by dyno runs. A great read if you're interested. A note on it though, most of their power is gained from timing advance. Our ECU's will obtain timing advance up to +5, but it not tunable to set the timing on its own so running E85 isn't going to get massive gains since we can't advance our timing 8-9 degrees like they did.
http://www.enginelabs.com/author/bobmorreale/
One last thought for those who stumble in here, anyone ever try running race gas? There's a place near me I found that has 100 octane pump gas, I've never seen that before in my life. 100% street legal in California: https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel/ss-100. I already have water/meth, but what about running enough 100 octane to boost my pump gas to say, 93 or 94 octane?
I will be adding a bottle or two of HEET to the Boost Juice I use to get the mix up to more like 60/40 meth/water or even 66/33 since I am running too much water for my engine. Other users have reported similar things and run straight methanol, but I'd be wary of engine fires if anything went wrong so keeping the water content higher. If I take 2/3 a gallon of Boost Juice and fill it to the top with HEET, I'll have a 66% methanol content so easy to measure too.
Speaking of fuel, I read a fantastic set of articles comparing meth injection to race fuels. They even tested an "octane booster" that delivered great results as well! All backed up by dyno runs. A great read if you're interested. A note on it though, most of their power is gained from timing advance. Our ECU's will obtain timing advance up to +5, but it not tunable to set the timing on its own so running E85 isn't going to get massive gains since we can't advance our timing 8-9 degrees like they did.
http://www.enginelabs.com/author/bobmorreale/
One last thought for those who stumble in here, anyone ever try running race gas? There's a place near me I found that has 100 octane pump gas, I've never seen that before in my life. 100% street legal in California: https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel/ss-100. I already have water/meth, but what about running enough 100 octane to boost my pump gas to say, 93 or 94 octane?
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Royal Purple MAX ATF Review
I just finished a couple of drain & fills to replace my store brand ATF with some Royal Purple synthetic MAX ATF:
WOW, what a difference! I never thought changing fluids would really change much. A little background, I have the Transgo 340-HD2 valve body shift kit which is recommended by some for supercharged auto transmissions. It cleans up the shifts, raises the shift points and allow it to work smoother & quicker. Ever since doing it though, the 1-2 shift has been very firm, sometimes to the point where it makes my whole vehicle jerk like someone hit it with a hammer.
Now with the Royal Purple in there, it's buttery smooth but still a very quick shift. 1-2 is smooth and fast, and if I get on the gas the shifts are still very quiet but very quick! [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] and other's who have done the shift kit, I highly recommend switching to either Royal Purple MAX ATF or a similar high performance ATF oil like Redline. It made a world of a difference with a modified valve body!
Update 8/27/2022: The Royal Purple fluid has burnt after 20,000 or so miles and I've got transmission noise. It worked well until it didn't. I had checked just 6 months or so ago but hadn't been driving it all that much so thought it was fine but I was wrong. Will be going with another fluid instead.
I just finished a couple of drain & fills to replace my store brand ATF with some Royal Purple synthetic MAX ATF:
WOW, what a difference! I never thought changing fluids would really change much. A little background, I have the Transgo 340-HD2 valve body shift kit which is recommended by some for supercharged auto transmissions. It cleans up the shifts, raises the shift points and allow it to work smoother & quicker. Ever since doing it though, the 1-2 shift has been very firm, sometimes to the point where it makes my whole vehicle jerk like someone hit it with a hammer.
Now with the Royal Purple in there, it's buttery smooth but still a very quick shift. 1-2 is smooth and fast, and if I get on the gas the shifts are still very quiet but very quick! [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] and other's who have done the shift kit, I highly recommend switching to either Royal Purple MAX ATF or a similar high performance ATF oil like Redline. It made a world of a difference with a modified valve body!
Update 8/27/2022: The Royal Purple fluid has burnt after 20,000 or so miles and I've got transmission noise. It worked well until it didn't. I had checked just 6 months or so ago but hadn't been driving it all that much so thought it was fine but I was wrong. Will be going with another fluid instead.
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phattyduck
Elite Member
The Subaru tuner/builder I'm good friends with usually suggests strait methanol use for water/meth kits. You basically use it like an extra injector, at that point - adding fuel AND 'octane' at the same time.
Are you still running an on/off system or is it progressive? Have you thought about running off of MAF voltage instead of boost? This is a situation where turbos have an advantage - usually you don't get high boost and low flow at the same time in a well designed turbo system.
-Charlie
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I'm a little wary of running 100% meth due to safety concerns. I've had a fuel leak on 2 occasions so far, the "quick-connect" system isn't all that great. I'm buying a fire extinguisher right now since I'm now at 66% methanol content. The most I'll go is 75%, that's 1/2 bottle of boost juice filled to the top with straight methanol.
It's a progressive system but it start out at roughly 30% of flow. When it turns on sub-3000 RPMs it really hampers performance. Turbos are definitely much simpler to install on, you're exactly right since you cannot build boost that low unless you have a really tiny turbo on it.I'm still tweaking things and for now have my meth system turned off and reset my ECU's fuel trims. Without it I'm still getting the bucking, I think it might be my spark plugs causing some problems too. I ordered a new set and they will be going in next month with the rest of the parts I ordered.
I realize I didn't answer the MAF tuning part. With a piggyback, the ECU tunes out all MAF tuning due to the O2 sensor being the trump card. If you adjust the tune for the MAF but leave the stock O2 sensor alone, it will de-tune it back to stoich 14.7 in closed loop and all you are left with is the open loop part. That's why these vehicles and Toyotas in general are so hard to tune correctly.
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Not sure if I was clear on the MAF thing - I mean for the meth injection. Instead of using MAP voltage, use MAF voltage as the input to the meth controller. I'm not sure it will be better, but it is a valid option and will get rid of overspraying water/meth at lower engine airflow. You'd have to retard the low-RPM timing to keep it safe, but you aren't always looking for max power down low anyway...
-Charlie
-Charlie
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Oh gotcha, that makes more sense. Snow Performance does sell a MAF/MAP controller. I had originally bought a used one that would turn on based on injector pulse cycle, which is even better, but it was broken and didn't work right.
One day I'll get this tuning business figured out to perfection.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Putting this here for reference. I am looking into installing a rev unlimiter from Magnum Tuning but needed to confirm the ECU and how many quartz there are on the board. https://www.magnumtuning.com/en/detail/revolution-pro-speed-rev-limiter-cdi-box/toyota/4runner
If all goes well, I'll have the ability to raise the rev limit from 5500 as well as increase the governor.
EDIT: they said it would take two of their products, one controlling each crystal. I think I might research a direct crystal replacement then, for each one. Looking for a 10% faster crystal, should be about right.
If all goes well, I'll have the ability to raise the rev limit from 5500 as well as increase the governor.
EDIT: they said it would take two of their products, one controlling each crystal. I think I might research a direct crystal replacement then, for each one. Looking for a 10% faster crystal, should be about right.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
No not yet. He said he's pretty backed up right now, something about it being race season, about 2 weeks. I mailed them a week ago but haven't heard back (or charged me anything).
He did say he's been getting a few orders lately for the 5VZ-FE cams. I'm excited to get them in soon. I am taking some time off mid-July to work on everything so I'll have them in sometime then.
phattyduck
Elite Member
What are the frequencies of the stock crystals? Do you have the tools to do the replacement? www.digikey.com and www.mouser.com will be the easiest sources to find the crystals. They are a standard HC49 package.
-Charlie
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Thanks, I checked out digikey and they have what I need. It's a 16 Mhz and 8Mhz stock, so I could replace with a ~17.8ish and a 9 and be pretty close to 10%. I'm putting this on hold first though, since I need to wait for my camshaft order and put it on the dyno to even see if there's power to be made that high or not.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I'm two weeks into the new Royal Purple transmission fluid and I really love how it make it drive! I find myself not fighting the transmission at all anymore, it's no longer searching for gears at heavy throttle, and it makes the transmission operate quieter. Makes the trans play a whole lot nicer with the supercharger. I knew my transmission was noisy, but didn't realize how noisy it really was!
I didn't think a fluid would make that much of a difference but it really does.
I didn't think a fluid would make that much of a difference but it really does.
