Keaton's 1993 Toyota 4Runner

128keaton said:
I replaced my rotors late last year (2016), now they are warped again. This weekend they are coming off to be turned, but it shook before that. Just about everything under the front end, aside from swaybar bushings/end-links, is new or replaced within the past two years. In addition, I do not feel the shaking strong in the steering either. You feel it in your butt :)

Watching you thread too, love the color of your runner!
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Thanks dude!! As for the shake, I've read your thread just don't remember and don't wanna go back, have you replace the bushing between the body and frame?
 
I have been told there is still moving up there even out of 4wd with the ADD hubs. Sounds like you've addressed it by unhooking the driveshaft and testing.

As far as the roof rack I did the same thing you did with the slide in mounts. For the cab racks I have gutter mounts, and they are all the same height off the roof if you ever wanted to go that route.

I looked for my alignment paperwork but couldn't find it, I do know that they had some issues aligning mine because of my lift. I have yet to order the rear track bar relocate mounts from 4 crawler (the track bar should run horizontal to the rear axle and not have any angle).
 
O.B.A.K said:
I have been told there is still moving up there even out of 4wd with the ADD hubs. Sounds like you've addressed it by unhooking the driveshaft and testing.

As far as the roof rack I did the same thing you did with the slide in mounts. For the cab racks I have gutter mounts, and they are all the same height off the roof if you ever wanted to go that route.

I looked for my alignment paperwork but couldn't find it, I do know that they had some issues aligning mine because of my lift. I have yet to order the rear track bar relocate mounts from 4 crawler (the track bar should run horizontal to the rear axle and not have any angle).
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Interesting. Sounds like I've got a full weekend of troubleshooting planned. If the front u-joint was out I'd be angry at myself. I just figured the front axles would move but not the front driveshaft b/c of the front diff.

Thanks for looking. Mine is stock with some MOOG coils in the back (no idea what though, wonder if that has anything to do with the shaking). Did you do any drilling for your gutter mounts? Or is it just clamped on?

Really? Mine is stock and my bar is NOT horizontally aligned perfectly with the rear axle. Axle side is 15.5" off the ground and the frame side is 19.3" off the ground.

IMG_2347 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

Photo makes it look a bit more extreme since the angle is a bit below the bar.
 
128keaton said:
Interesting. Sounds like I've got a full weekend of troubleshooting planned. If the front u-joint was out I'd be angry at myself. I just figured the front axles would move but not the front driveshaft b/c of the front diff.

Thanks for looking. Mine is stock with some MOOG coils in the back (no idea what though, wonder if that has anything to do with the shaking). Did you do any drilling for your gutter mounts? Or is it just clamped on?

Really? Mine is stock and my bar is NOT horizontally aligned perfectly with the rear axle. Axle side is 15.5" off the ground and the frame side is 19.3" off the ground.

IMG_2347 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

Photo makes it look a bit more extreme since the angle is a bit below the bar.
Click to expand...

I do believe I got my track bar info from 4crawlers website, you should get on there and read what he has to say, he is an ultimate resource we have for these trucks, and he will be missed when/if he ever steps out of the game.

My track bar is the about the same as yours, 4-5 inch difference.

I have Moogs on mine, which is just the stock replacement, with 1.5" 4crawler spacers. The extra height of just normal springs on your suspension could be the issue for the track bar, but I don't think it would have anything to do with the shaking.

I would definitely take a hard look at the front pinion and rear pinion joints to try to seek your shake out.

Gutter mounts are just clamped on, I have the boxes in the shed if you are interested in the numbers for the mounts. I believe I got them off eBay for a discounted price on my last build.
 
O.B.A.K said:
I do believe I got my track bar info from 4crawlers website, you should get on there and read what he has to say, he is an ultimate resource we have for these trucks, and he will be missed when/if he ever steps out of the game.

My track bar is the about the same as yours, 4-5 inch difference.

I have Moogs on mine, which is just the stock replacement, with 1.5" 4crawler spacers. The extra height of just normal springs on your suspension could be the issue for the track bar, but I don't think it would have anything to do with the shaking.

I would definitely take a hard look at the front pinion and rear pinion joints to try to seek your shake out.

Gutter mounts are just clamped on, I have the boxes in the shed if you are interested in the numbers for the mounts. I believe I got them off eBay for a discounted price on my last build.
Click to expand...

Hmm. Okay--glad mine isn't different from stock. I'm waiting on time to tow the truck with everything in neutral to determine if its a driveline issue or a wheel issue. I'm starting to suspect the axle tube is bent but I'm going to double back with both pinions. Its just starting to get expensive :hurt:. Lol.

That would be great if you could snap some pics, I'd love to eventually have a full length rack.
 
Today I fixed the sloppy shifter issue. I like finding issues that I didn't know were issues. I've owned this truck for years at this point and I didn't know any different. Like the fan clutch and the idler arm await replacement--thanks to people telling me "uhh thats not normal"
:hatsoff:
 
I guess the seal on the passenger side was bad too:
IMG_2376 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

Uggggh. I was driving and I heard a loud growl and pulled to the right. Then it stopped and felt normal. Turns out my nice KOYO bearing exploded. :dammit:

I will have ~4 brands of wheel bearings on my truck now. KOYO, National, and (sigh) Duracrap. When I get my rotors turned I'll replace with KOYO again.

FML!!
 
Gotta love how friction works. Basically, my bearing welded itself to the spindle.

IMG_2384 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

I went to pick a part to pull a front spindle off of another 4runner. The other 2nd gen was a 2wd. No worries, you can actually convert the 2wd spindle to a 4wd spindle. You need three parts:
* Outer spindle bushing
* Outer spindle seal
* Inner spindle bushing
* Studs for the hub (pull these off of your old hub/spindle)

The bushings press out, but you can easily use a hammer and punch. Make sure to grease them since these will squawk without grease. The studs can be pulled using the double nut trick. Thread two nuts on, only loosen the bottom nut, thus loosening the stud. The outer spindle seal can be tapped off using a screwdriver and hammer. MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS ON. I forgot and I need to tear off my spindle again (ugh).

This is finally what my afternoon of work yielded:

IMG_2386 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

I had pulled the water flap keeper off of a 3rd gen at a yard. I cut it up in segments to fit my passenger side:

IMG_2387 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr


works for me!
 
Might as well share my accelerator cable fix. On the pedal end of your accelerator cable exists a rubber grommet. Over time, the grommet splits, putting slack in your accelerator cable. Here is what I did. I cut it off in half, found a piece of copper pipe, split the pipe, and stuffed the grommet inside. The copper pipe keeps the grommet from splitting any more.
 
I found myself removing the lower control arms today.

On my 4runner (1993), I had to first unbolt the sway bar endlinks from the control arm. Same with the shock. Just unbolt it. Then I removed the four bolts holding the ball joint in. The arm just about swung down. Then, I took a picture of my alignment so I could get it roughly aligned when putting it back together. Now, the next part: pressing them out.

:censored: :censored: :censored:

You really need a proper press to do this, but its still pretty challenging even with the right tools. We ended up using a piece of pipe with a nut/bolt welded on the end and pressed through the bushings. Putting the new ones in should be easy, just use a mallet :). Install in reverse.

Waiting on RockAuto.com to send me my new ones
 
128keaton said:
Might as well share my accelerator cable fix. On the pedal end of your accelerator cable exists a rubber grommet. Over time, the grommet splits, putting slack in your accelerator cable. Here is what I did. I cut it off in half, found a piece of copper pipe, split the pipe, and stuffed the grommet inside. The copper pipe keeps the grommet from splitting any more.
Click to expand...

which end was that? pedal or engine end?
Last year on 4th of July mine broke at the pedal, used some zip ties to get back on the road..still going strong:cool:
 
Dropzone said:
which end was that? pedal or engine end?
Last year on 4th of July mine broke at the pedal, used some zip ties to get back on the road..still going strong:cool:
Click to expand...

Pedal end. Engine end had come loose at one point on the highway though :suspicious:
 
I figured it would be fun to add some closure to this thread since I've been missing my 2nd gen these past couple of days.

So late May I had a job in Arizona. Early May, though, I decided to take another road trip west. Fun, right? It was, for the most part. I was in a 3 car caravan going to Pikes Peak in CO and Moab, UT (again).

The 4Runner was in the best shape it ever had been. New fender, new tires, new A/C system, new lower control arms, new upper bushings, new Bilstein suspension. Yeah.

It was a sweet ride:
IMG_2778 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr
(last picture of the truck in Memphis)

I made it to OKC easily:
Last time I cleaned the interior by keaton.burleson, on Flickr
IMG_2789 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr


I made it to Pueblo, CO easily:

IMG_2828 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr


I tackled Pikes Peak in the trusty G2 again:
IMG_2847 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr


Had a blast in Moab (didn't break anything):
Moab by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

Moab by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

Finally, I had to break off from the fun group and head down to AZ to take care of business.


This is the last picture of my truck (well, from inside) when it was running:
IMG_2992 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

I pulled over to adjust timing and noticed it was blowing white smoke. Then it wouldn't turn over without pulling the plug. Radiator was dry. Did not overheat, but figured headgasket on driver's side was blown. Took it to a shop to have it done, and flew into Phoenix.

The next week, they checked both headgaskets. Turned out to not be a headgasket.
IMG_3017 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr
IMG_3078 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

Block was cracked.

I ended up buying a 2000 SR5 in white and had to drive all the way back up there to get my gear out and off the truck.

Here are some of the last pictures I ever got of the truck:
IMG_3087 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

IMG_3088 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr


The last picture, ever, that I took of my truck that I've had in the family for 23 years:
The last picture of my 2nd gen by keaton.burleson, on Flickr


I sold it for -$600 (shop) so I lost money on it. The shopowner planned to drop a rebuilt engine in from another truck or something. Who knows. I'd like to think whoever bought it is an enthusiast, but who knows.

Anyway. If you bought a black, 1993, SR5 with fading clearcoat on the passenger side, in Cortez, CO, I hope you enjoy it. It was a sweet truck.

IMG_0990 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

Bye, bud!
 
Chuckles89 said:
Dang :( that was a good truck


Welcome to the 3rd gen gang though :)
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I still miss it. I'll hopefully pick one up in the next couple of years. A two door 5speed would be great, or a 1995 Limited with a sunroof/5speed would also be great. Love the styling on these, never really loved the 3rd gens much.
 
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