LED Dash lights FAQs

My rant; I'm getting tired of seeing the exact same threads pop up almost every week asking about bulbs sizes, differences in bulbs, where you can get them, and why aren't they working. Hopefully this thread will shine some light on these issue, and maybe we can reduce the number of interior LED questions that come up on a weekly basis.

First off, don't assume you have the correct bulbs on order. Check your vehicles bulb sizes on the chart below. This chart when help insure you're getting the correct bulb size for your year and model.

Hopefully this helps.

Mike

Something ain't right. I bought #74 bulbs for the ash tray and glove box for my 2000 LE and the bulb portion of the bulb is too fat for the bulb to seat into the holder. No workie. The base looks right but the bulb is too large. Is there a slimmer bulb out there with the same base size?

rzgkane-albums-2000+toyota+4runner-picture49794-bulbs.jpg
 
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Check your taillights (seriously). If they are out, it's your TAIL fuse.

Checked the taillights and they're definitely out! I don't see a TAIL fuse, is there another set of fuses? I looked through the fuse box and found that the 7.5A "ECU-B" fuse was burnt out. Could this be the culprit?

What does each of these fuses line up to?
 
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Checked the taillights and they're definitely out! I don't see a TAIL fuse, is there another set of fuses? I looked through the fuse box and found that the 7.5A "ECU-B" fuse was burnt out. Could this be the culprit?

What does each of these fuses line up to?

TAIL fuse is in box under hood. What year is your truck? Fuse wiring varies.
 
I have a 2002.
See attached .

It's more likely you blew both fuses at the same time, but TAIL fuse should restore dash lights by itself.]The ECU-B fuse is responsible for this:

the two right knobs on the climate control were previously burned out, and I was unable to get any of them to light up when testing them out, switching both sides to check for polarity. I used the Neo-wedge B 3 and 4 mm respectively.
 

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Thanks MSTUDT for this great write up. I just pulled the trigger on the entire interior of my 98. Goin with red dash, hvac, Auto Selector etc. Did map, dome, reverse and parking lights. Going with SRQ head lights and Raptor grill soon so not doing anything with the stock head lights right now.
Thanks again MSTUDT.
 
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I'm going to get the LEDs and want to stick with the green glow. On superbright leds there is cool (6500k) or warm (3300k). Do I go with warm in green?
 
LED Park release solenoid?

Sorry to Hijack but i cant start a new thread because I haven't posted enough yet.

I'm trying to button up a full LED conversion on a 3rd gen (Changed cluster, dash, interior, and exterior lights to led.) I put in an adjustable relay so my blinkers are the right speed but the issue i'm having is the shift release solenoid thing to the right of the shifter clicks with the turn signals. If i swap the running light/stop lamp bulb back to a standard bulb it stops. Has anyone run into this issue? I don't know whats going on....
 
15254360093a078a228260d17a3a9021.jpg


Added LEDs from superbrightleds.com came out great other than the left side of the cluster. Anyone have an idea of what the cause would be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
See attached .

It's more likely you blew both fuses at the same time, but TAIL fuse should restore dash lights by itself.]The ECU-B fuse is responsible for this:

Looking for some help here!

I looked at both fuses and you were right, they were both blown. I replaced both and the TAIL fuse keeps blowing.

So background, all instrument cluster and taillights are out, but the brake lights work. I replaced all instrument lights and they were working at one point. I tried to tap into the dimmer switch light to add an interior accent light, like RipCord's, but cut the green wire. After my cluster not working anymore, I abandoned that idea and reattached the green wire, as in the picture and the TAIL fuse still keeps blowing.

Additionally, both corner turn signals in the front are out.

Any suggestions on step by step to help find the issues and rule things out one by one? I've been running no tails and cluster at night for a while with the emergencies flashing, so I'm getting desperate to fix this ASAP!
 
Looking for some help here!

I looked at both fuses and you were right, they were both blown. I replaced both and the TAIL fuse keeps blowing.

So background, all instrument cluster and taillights are out, but the brake lights work. I replaced all instrument lights and they were working at one point. I tried to tap into the dimmer switch light to add an interior accent light, like RipCord's, but cut the green wire. After my cluster not working anymore, I abandoned that idea and reattached the green wire, as in the picture and the TAIL fuse still keeps blowing.

Additionally, both corner turn signals in the front are out.

Any suggestions on step by step to help find the issues and rule things out one by one? I've been running no tails and cluster at night for a while with the emergencies flashing, so I'm getting desperate to fix this ASAP!

Yeah, sorry, but trouble-shooting is rarely step-by-step, because each step depends on the previous one, and I can't write out all the permutations.

So Step 1 here is to look at Page 26 here:

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivio/1996%20to%202002%20Toyota%204Runner%20Repair%20and%20Wiring%20Manuals/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/relayloc/relayloc.pdf

Pull plug 3F from the center junction Box. See if that allows your taillights to work, while leaving the cluster dark. Assuming it does, then....

Sept 2 is to measure resistance to ground on Pins 10, 11, 12, 14, 18,19, 16, and 20 on the plug of that same Plug 3F. . One of those is likely to show a short to ground, (zero resistance) and that's our culprit.

If Step 1 does not work as expected, then we'll have a different Step 2.

Report back and we'll see whats next.
 
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Yeah, sorry, but trouble-shooting is rarely step-by-step, because each step depends on the previous one, and I can't write out all the permutations.

So Step 1 here is to look at Page 26 here:

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivio/1996%20to%202002%20Toyota%204Runner%20Repair%20and%20Wiring%20Manuals/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/relayloc/relayloc.pdf

Pull plug 3F from the center junction Box. See if that allows your taillights to work, while leaving the cluster dark. Assuming it does, then....

Sept 2 is to measure resistance to ground on Pins 10, 11, 12, 14, 18,19, 16, and 20 on the plug of that same Plug 3F. . One of those is likely to show a short to ground, (zero resistance) and that's our culprit.

If Step 1 does not work as expected, then we'll have a different Step 2.

Report back and we'll see whats next.

Thanks for the help! I can't seem to find the center junction box...am I looking in the wrong place?

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Yeah, sorry, but trouble-shooting is rarely step-by-step, because each step depends on the previous one, and I can't write out all the permutations.

So Step 1 here is to look at Page 26 here:

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivio/1996%20to%202002%20Toyota%204Runner%20Repair%20and%20Wiring%20Manuals/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/relayloc/relayloc.pdf

Pull plug 3F from the center junction Box. See if that allows your taillights to work, while leaving the cluster dark. Assuming it does, then....

Sept 2 is to measure resistance to ground on Pins 10, 11, 12, 14, 18,19, 16, and 20 on the plug of that same Plug 3F. . One of those is likely to show a short to ground, (zero resistance) and that's our culprit.

If Step 1 does not work as expected, then we'll have a different Step 2.

Report back and we'll see whats next.

Looks like I found it, underneath the steering wheel near the brake pedal. I unplugged it but now the headlights don't come on at all also. Do I need to replug in everything on the gauge cluster? What do I need to reattach? I don't want to put the whole thing back together just yet if I don't have to :) IMG_0602.jpg
 

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Looks like I found it, underneath the steering wheel near the brake pedal. I unplugged it but now the headlights don't come on at all also. Do I need to replug in everything on the gauge cluster? What do I need to reattach? I don't want to put the whole thing back together just yet if I don't have to :) View attachment 286787
Yes. Everything. You should not need to pull the cluster at all to get to the center j/b.
 
Yes. Everything. You should not need to pull the cluster at all to get to the center j/b.

Put everything back together and it looks like I'm getting my tails now (although it's only the left one...could the right be burned out?)

I tested the resistance on the plug and it looks ALL of them are short:(zero resistance, black to ground, red into the pin, 200 ohm setting...am I doing this right??)

Pins 13 and 17 are showing resistance, but 10,11,12,14,16,18,19 and 20 aren't.

Thanks again for the help!
 
Bump, all cluster lights are still out and seems like all those pins are short.
Sorry, I am travelling in Brazil right now and I am not going to be as available as I normally am. This weekend was crazy (fun).

Assuming you are measuring correctly, what you are telling me is there must be some real damage to that harness going to that plug from the dash area. Try and follow it, especially where it comes in contact with any dash supports or other sharp metal parts, and look for burns or cuts to the harness.
 

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