Low Beam issue on 2000 4Runner

[GRNT4R00]

Oh man, I had fun trying to fix this on my truck. I ended up getting too frustrated and took it to a shop. Shop traced it back to the gauge cluster, but in doing so they created a problem where my highs got stuck on. Swapped out the cluster and a module under the dash on the drivers side, and my lights were back to functioning normally.

I read your thread also and hopes it’s not all that. I really hope I can get away with a small relay or switch

 

[TheDurk]

Test Results.

Removed the HEAD relay and attached clip of test light to the positive battery terminal and stuck the other end to prong 3 where the relay would go and nothing.(No light on the Test Light). I did this with the truck off and running and the light stalk turned to lights on as well as with the stalked pushed forward for High Beams and both returned no light on the test light

I do have to run to a kids football game this evening so i may not be able to test anything else until later. if you think its the Head relay, i can look to pick up one from somewhere tomorrow? Do you think the dealer is the best bet as i don't think they have one in stock or would somewhere else be an option?

Or does that mean the light switch is not sending power to trigger the relay? Bad Light Switch?

Well, it means the trigger signal is not gettingh to the relay, which is progress, but still a number of suspects. Stalk is one. DRL relay is another. I know you disabled it, but it still plays a role.

Just confirm for me that the plug you pulled to disable DRLs had only two wires.

I'll post back with my suggested next steps unless IBall beats me to it. I need to figure out the easiest way to do it. I'm hopeful we can cure this with a jumper wire if my suspicions are correct.

 

[GRNT4R00]

Well, it means the trigger signal is not gettingh to the relay, which is progress, but still a number of suspects. Stalk is one. DRL relay is another. I know you disabled it, but it still plays a role.

Just confirm for me that the plug you pulled to disable DRLs had only two wires.

I'll post back with my suggested next steps unless IBall beats me to it. I need to figure out the easiest way to do it. I'm hopeful we can cure this with a jumper wire if my suspicions are correct.

Progress is good. The DRL is currently plugged up but the issue did start while it was unplugged. I do remember it having 2 wires but I can confirm in a few hours when I get back. I meant to take a pic before I left but was running late.

 

[TheDurk]

Progress is good. The DRL is currently plugged up but the issue did start while it was unplugged. I do remember it having 2 wires but I can confirm in a few hours when I get back. I meant to take a pic before I left but was running late.

OK, I'm just going to assume the disable was done by unplugging the resistor breaking the path to ground when the heads are off. It's how I would do it, now that I've looked at it.

 

[GRNT4R00]

OK, I'm just going to assume the disable was done by unplugging the resistor breaking the path to ground when the heads are off. It's how I would do it, now that I've looked at it.

Maybe so. The plug connects to a larger box in the fender.

 

[IBallEngineer]

If there are any other test you can think of for me to perform, please let me know as I will be off Friday and hoping to work on this more along with another car. I will also be able to look at it later tonight. Tanks for your help so far. [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

Yup, next step is t follow the instructions in the post by my doppelganger El Durko. He's pretty smart, except he lives in New Jersey, but we don't hold that against him. I have some time issues at the moment so I'll chime in as I can.

For the record, [MENTION=99840]Twan[/MENTION] and another thread [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] and I collaborated on both ended up needing to replace the cluster. That is why I short circuited to ask you about that right away. I know another 3rd gen owner who never uses his switch, actually two if you count me. So I'm a little skeptical about you never having that feature, but we'll address that as it becomes necessary.

I am inclined to have you jumper the pin you tested for ground (#3 at the headlight relay) to ground and check for operation. This takes the Main DRL out of the loop. Ideally you need to attach a wire to the back side of the relay wiring and ground that wire. Since you said you had ground at the white wire, the DRL # 4 should be working and by proxy, the cluster is allowing headlight "ON". If I confused you, or myself, I'm sure LeDurk will straighten it out. He's a straight shooter.

 

[TheDurk]

Yup, next step is t follow the instructions in the post by my doppelganger El Durko. He's pretty smart, except he lives in New Jersey, but we don't hold that against him. I have some time issues at the moment so I'll chime in as I can.

For the record, [MENTION=99840]Twan[/MENTION] and another thread [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] and I collaborated on both ended up needing to replace the cluster. That is why I short circuited to ask you about that right away. I know another 3rd gen owner who never uses his switch, actually two if you count me. So I'm a little skeptical about you never having that feature, but we'll address that as it becomes necessary.

I am inclined to have you jumper the pin you tested for ground (#3 at the headlight relay) to ground and check for operation. This takes the Main DRL out of the loop. Ideally you need to attach a wire to the back side of the relay wiring and ground that wire. Since you said you had ground at the white wire, the DRL # 4 should be working and by proxy, the cluster is allowing headlight "ON". If I confused you, or myself, I'm sure LeDurk will straighten it out. He's a straight shooter.

I was actually thinking of doing the same thing, but at the other end where it hits the DRL main relay, at the red wire on Pin 6. Then do the same thing at the green wire on Pin 5, which takes the cluster and stalk out of the equation. With those two data bits, we should be pretty close to a diagnosis. Either will be something of a pain, but the DRL relay might be easier than the back of the head relay which is in the fuse box and you can do two things at once.

 

[GRNT4R00]

Going to read over this thoroughly when I get home in 20 mins to see exactly what I need to try

Thanks

 

[GRNT4R00]

OK, I'm just going to assume the disable was done by unplugging the resistor breaking the path to ground when the heads are off. It's how I would do it, now that I've looked at it.

Here are pics of the DRL plug and box behind it

 

[GRNT4R00]

I was actually thinking of doing the same thing, but at the other end where it hits the DRL main relay, at the red wire on Pin 6. Then do the same thing at the green wire on Pin 5, which takes the cluster and stalk out of the equation. With those two data bits, we should be pretty close to a diagnosis. Either will be something of a pain, but the DRL relay might be easier than the back of the head relay which is in the fuse box and you can do two things at once.

So that I'm understanding correctly. Locate the Main DRL Relay which i read is under the dash somewhere ( any details as to where). Find should i unplug that relay and connect a ground wire to the red wire and to the green wire somehow and reconnect it to the relay and test that way? do i need to pull the whole Main DRL Relay out to perform this or just unplug the connector running to it?

I agree it may be hard to get to the back of that Head relay to run a jumper unless someone knows of a good way to do it.

I will test and work on these tomorrow as i am off and will be able to trouble shoot more often while doing some other stuff unless there is something i can try tonight that is quick.

 

[TheDurk]

So that I'm understanding correctly. Locate the Main DRL Relay which i read is under the dash somewhere ( any details as to where). Find should i unplug that relay and connect a ground wire to the red wire and to the green wire somehow and reconnect it to the relay and test that way? do i need to pull the whole Main DRL Relay out to perform this or just unplug the connector running to it?

I agree it may be hard to get to the back of that Head relay to run a jumper unless someone knows of a good way to do it.

I will test and work on these tomorrow as i am off and will be able to trouble shoot more often while doing some other stuff unless there is something i can try tonight that is quick.

Main DRL Relay looks to be right below steering column. I can tell you it has a grey two row plug, one row with 8 and the other with 10 pins, total 18.

Pin -out at D8 on page 263 here:

 

[TheDurk]

You can do it either way,, whatever is easier. You can test red wire with relay unplugged, but for green wire we need relay in the circuit. Do one and then the other.

 

[GRNT4R00]

Sorry, no details on where. I can tell you it has a grey two row plug, one row with 8 and the other with 10 pins, total 18.

Pin -out at D8 on page 263 here:

When I locate it tomorrow, am I correct on your instructions

 

[TheDurk]

When I locate it tomorrow, am I correct on your instructions

Yeah, see 2nd post.

 

[GRNT4R00]

Yeah, see 2nd post.

Hey guys, i have had a lot of running to today and still have more. I haven't had a chance to trace it and try the jumper yet but i did pick up some wire to use for making one. I will try later tonight. Sorry for the delay

 

[GRNT4R00]

Tried to take a quick look to see where the Main DRL Relay is under the dash but wasn't able to see it for certain. Does anyone have any pics of its exact location or how to access it? do i need to remove the glove box and part of the dash if anyone can chime in. If so let me know and i can do it later tonight in order to try the steps listed.

Thanks

 

[TheDurk]

Tried to take a quick look to see where the Main DRL Relay is under the dash but wasn't able to see it for certain. Does anyone have any pics of its exact location or how to access it? do i need to remove the glove box and part of the dash if anyone can chime in. If so let me know and i can do it later tonight in order to try the steps listed.

Thanks

The diagram sucks, but it looks like you have to remove the cover underneath the steering wheel--that whole driver side under panel. Glove box should not be involved.. As I said, I don't have one, so I can't be much help as far as that goes.

 

[GRNT4R00]

The diagram sucks, but it looks like you have to remove the cover underneath the steering wheel--that whole driver side under panel. Glove box should not be involved.. As I said, I don't have one, so I can't be much help as far as that goes.

Found the Main DRL relay. If I understand correctly. Unplug the relay and run the test light ground to the red wire on pin 6 and see if the test light turns on when stalk is to head?
Here is the relay and location for future reference

 

[GRNT4R00]

Results of Red Wire Test on Main DRL Relay

I connected the test light lead to the Red Wire Pin # 6 on the Main DRL relay while unplugged and grounded at the battery.

The Low Beams lights turned on with the Stalk turned to Off and the Test Light lit up.

Results of Green Wire Test on Main DRL Relay.

Reconnected relay and grounded test light at battery. Stuck test light prob into the green wire pin #5 on the relay and low beams came on as well as high beams when stalked was pushed forward. Test light lit up as well, of course. I turned on the Stalk and Lights worked as well.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Results of Red Wire Test on Main DRL Relay

I connected the test light lead to the Red Wire Pin # 6 on the Main DRL relay while unplugged and grounded at the battery.

The Low Beams lights turned on with the Stalk turned to Off and the Test Light lit up.

Results of Green Wire Test on Main DRL Relay.

Reconnected relay and grounded test light at battery. Stuck test light prob into the green wire pin #5 on the relay and low beams came on as well as high beams when stalked was pushed forward. Test light lit up as well, of course. I turned on the Stalk and Lights worked as well.

OK, so you are in the right place, and probably did the right thing. What I mean is I wanted to jumper directly to ground, not through the test light. But if it worked, it worked. Now let me make sure I understand.

With the relay disconnected and the lights turned to OFF, the low beams came on when you jumpered pin 6, is that right?

This part has me a little confused, but I just got back from Costco and my wallet is still hurting.

And with the Relay connected, you got normal operation with pin 5 jumpered, is that right?