Manual Hub CV Shaft Lock ring/ c clip/ ?

xcmountain80

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For the life of me I cannot recall if the damn cv shaft used with the manual hub swapped 4R’s have a lock ring on the end (1996 Toyota Tacoma DX, 4wd w/manual hubs). There is an indentation for one but,,,I must have lost it. As a result for the last 200k or so the drivers side cv clunks on every bump. The passenger side it tight and cannot be jostled. If you grab the driver side cv you can recreate the thunk. Where would I come by another, I was at the auto parts place last time I broke/ swapped a cv and they could find a damn thing that was close.

Any help would be awesome.

Thanks


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It is the one thing I can't find a pic of in my thread, only the washer (spacer) that goes behind it and a mention of it. I'll keep looking.
EDIT: Double-check this...I did a quick search and could be wrong- PN# 90520-27023
left and right are the same
Front axle hub for Toyota Tacoma VZN160L - Genuine parts

post 2489, if you have super-eyes you might be able to see it-
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 125 - YotaTech Forums

best pic I have (circle is for something else)
80-64d00b42_fa76_48f9_8e44_73773defec28_zpsmpvfumqk_7f785417d7d9dbc85241c820bcc3c9189db49f39.jpg
 
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Habanero, thank you for the super specific information. I believe this is exactly what I need.

Aaron


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That's what it looks like, and looks about the right size (I don't have a measurement).
Mental note- next time I tear down do more measuring and photos!



I sure am glad I save parts. Though I wonder why the hell this is in my bin and not on the truck. I’ll let you know.


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I sure am glad I save parts. Though I wonder why the hell this is in my bin and not on the truck. I’ll let you know.

I think I have half a truck on shelves in the basement. :D

It'll be cool to hear the rest of the story. I'm really hoping yours isn't a wee bit too big. If so I'm pretty sure the part number I posted earlier will be what you need.
There's more than one in there, I'm going to have to start taking better pics, I'm just usually so greasy when this is happening...
80-p2077061_zps5kfbu45z_5a73835b13b3d0ae7ac9dd2e652c12c64ad2c97c.jpg
 
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[MENTION=68504]xcmountain80[/MENTION]

Thinking about the basement junk I realized I have a spare needle bearing that the cv shaft passes through- based on the internal measurement of it your snap-ring is too big.
KGKAM3e.jpg


you can see where the needle bearing is in the hub pic-
80-033_zpsr9ltzuac_5584e2c1fde10c473ab34b943ec2572324d64927.jpg


So the inner diameter of this is the outer diameter of your cv shaft...but I'm betting you won't fit into a women's large bike glove...
BS5GK8d.jpg
 
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[MENTION=68504]xcmountain80[/MENTION]

Thinking about the basement junk I realized I have a spare needle bearing that the cv shaft passes through- based on the internal measurement of it your snap-ring is too big.
KGKAM3e.jpg


you can see where the needle bearing is in the hub pic-
80-033_zpsr9ltzuac_5584e2c1fde10c473ab34b943ec2572324d64927.jpg


So the inner diameter of this is the outer diameter of your cv shaft...but I'm betting you won't fit into a women's large bike glove...
BS5GK8d.jpg



No I’m a men’s L or XL in the case of MTB gloves. It’s funny that neither of us took the opposite measurement. I didn’t measure the ID of the clip and you didn’t measure the OD. Since I currently at work being productive, I noticed in my OD image that the inner teeth almost line up to what looks like 40mm ID on the clip. I’ll check.


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I'm kinda mad it's snowing out- curiosity is making me want to tear mine apart and measure the snap-ring in question.

You know the next time I tear it apart I will measure and take pics and find as many part numbers as I can but it has to be warmer and drier and I have to have less of a cold.
(yes, I am whining)
 
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I'm kinda mad it's snowing out- curiosity is making me want to tear mine apart and measure the snap-ring in question.

You know the next time I tear it apart I will measure and take pics and find as many part numbers as I can but it has to be warmer and drier and I have to have less of a cold.
(yes, I am whining)



I’m placing an order with Camelback Toyota tonight. Addling the splined washers too, and a 13WL caliper rebuild Kit. I will measure the new ring when it comes in. On a side note when I searched the ring part number an old Sonoran Steel Manual Hub swap parts page came up. He lists EVERYTHING needed. Makes me kick myself as I have looked and relooked at that page over the years and never realized those numbers were there.

Thank you for your help to an age old mystery.


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Parts ordered. Now to find banjo fitting brake lines to fit the calipers and clean that up.


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And all back together. No more clunk or so I think. I did however flug up some hub stud bolts, pretty sure it’ll require a trip to the machine shop or a mobile welder.


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The T4R forum has excellent technical information, so sorry to threadjack and pollute your forum with my lowly Tacoma. I converted it to manual hubs several years ago with light off-road exploring and civilized road manners in mind. Everything's worked flawlessly ever since then. No drivetrain vibes, no CV axle issues, etc.

It's not my daily driver anymore and I've been prepping it to start doing some moderately difficult trails with a small group of people I regularly go on outings with. I've already installed a winch bumper, Harrop e-locker in the rear, welded on rock sliders, installed OME suspension front and rear, with skid plates and a rear bumper on the way. I keep hearing over in the Tacoma forums that manual hub CV axles are weak as matchsticks and ADD CV axles are so much stronger they're worth the trade offs on lifted trucks.

I'm also planning on buying a Harrop for my front diff this fall as a birthday present. Do any of you with manual hubs, [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION], [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION], [MENTION=110898]Jaysen4runner[/MENTION], or anyone else, think that's a bad idea and I should switch back to ADD CV axles for more difficult off-roading and a front diff lock?
 

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