My 3 point slow rebuild

[bluewavecaptain]

Here's a view of the backside of the engine with the infamous setback now installed. One 10mm bolt holds the plate in place. Its located near the starter opening.

I fought pretty hard with the manifolds the first time and feared I cross-threaded a bolt. So, while the engine was out, I pulled the manifolds. I did one find one hole that was a little messed up, but I ran a tap through it and it was fine. I also ran a tap through all the other holes. I then used some industrial anti-seize (good to 2500 degrees F) and reinstalled the manifolds. I now have better piece of mind.



I also put anti-seize on the crossover studs. Exhaust bolts are usually the first to rust and the first to snap, so I'm taking precautions for the future.

The engine going back into the bay. A sigh of relief...


I didn't get a lot done this weekend. But, the worst is behind me. (knocks on wood) I ended up helping my dad with his tractor restoration and then going with him on a few calls. (tow truck driving). But now I'm ready for next weekend!

 

[bluewavecaptain]

Starter Install

Well, it's been a while. Time for an update

I cleaned up the starter lead terminal and the terminal end on the positive wire.



To install the starter, first remove the passenger wheel.

Then remove the access panel above the upper control arm. Some are held in with 10mm nuts, some are held in with snap fasteners.

Remove the passenger motor mount. The mount CAN be unbolted and removed through the passenger wheel well, but I removed mine from the front since I had the open space.

To give you relative perspective of why the motor mount has to be removed.

The top bolt goes through the bell housing into the starter.

The bottom bolt goes through the starter into the bell housing. If you have the front axle in or lack space, several long extensions can be used to reach "down the tunnel" to the bolt.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

Torque Converter

Here is a view from the wheel well with the motor mount re-installed.

Next, I worked on bolting the flexplate to the torque converter. Thread in the crankshaft bolt and use a ratchet to turn the engine to line up the bolt holes.

A close up of the flex plate lined up. There are six bolts total. Install one bolt finger tight and then rotate the engine to install the remaining ones. Then go back around a second time to torque them down. Be sure to use thread locker on the bolt threads as well.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

Fuel Injection

I decided to work on getting the fuel injectors and fuel rails installed. I didn't like how dirty the injector seats were, so I decided to pull and clean them. Good thing I did...



Couple of pictures of a cleaned injector seat. Much happier now that I know I'll have a good seal and no dirt getting into the injectors or the engine.



Unfortunately, my injector portion came to a halt when I realized that I was missing a lower injector seat. Luckily, I found an injector rebuild kit on Ebay that has all the seals.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

Intake

Well, I decided to install the coolant manifold and the front idler/coolant pipe on the intake.

Cleaned up the surface.

Now...take a look at the picture above and the picture below.... See the problem...I put the intake manifold on backwards!

Well, good a place as any to prep the mount. Cleaned it up, put gasket sealer on the base and anti-sieze on the bolts



Well, turned the intake around and got the manifold bolted down.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

Prepped the front base for the idler pulley

Applied gasket sealer

I know there's a rubber o-ring installed on the pully, but I didn't want to take any chances.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

The water neck studs installed. I used anti-sieze on these as well.

Gasket maker applied to the water neck.

The water neck seated and more anti-sieze on the stud ends.

 

[mikebontoft]

good work. Glad you replaced the injector seals or you would have had the same trouble I did... all of your fuel on the ground.

Also with the starter, Ive done it a few times now on second gens. the passenger mount doesn't have to be removed. You have to move those harnesses over and make a hole. Its a bit of a pain but if you rotate it just right it can come in and out pretty easily. the bolts are best removed from the front with extensions. I can't think of anything better to get that damn nut on the starter terminal though

 

[bluewavecaptain]

The idler pulley is installed and the rear timing cover is bolted on.

Here's a neat trick. To hold the timing gears in place while torqueing them down, use the female end of a 1/2" extension over the timing cover bolt.

The cam gears installed. Pay attention to the orientation. The flange on the driver side gear faces outward.

Be sure to line up the timing marks before installing the timing belt.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

I apologize for the cloudy pictures. It was awhile before I realized my camera lens was dirty. So, I stumbled on yet another problem. A stripped out bolt hole in the engine block. Had to drop $66 on a heli-coil kit.

I got fustrated and didn't plan on using the A/C anyways, so I did some cleaning. In reality, I didn't have enough space to get a drill at the hole decently.

Much better. I am going to keep the A/C condensor fan and reinstall it later with an relay kit and sensor. The cooler I can keep the motor, the longer it will last.

Hard to see, but I have the heli-coil installed.

The stud reinstalled.

 

[4runnin83]

Man, she's gonna run like brand new when you're finished.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

If you re-use the original tensioner, use a very small allen wrench or stiff wire to hold the plunger in while you install the tensioner. I used a bench vise to compress the plunger.

The tensioner installed with the allen wrench still in place. Once installed, remove the allen wrench with a pliers.

After the belt is installed, install the lower timing cover.

I used a paint marker on the timing marks to make them easier to see later.

Don't forget to install the timing belt guide before the cover.

The timing belt installed along with the fan bracket.

And this is where I realized my lens was dirty and cleaned it. Another view showing the tensioner installed.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

The harmonic balancer pulley installed.

A close up of the timing marks.

The oil pressure sending unit installed.

The remainder of the timing cover was installed including the front cover and this piece.

Cleaned up the upper coolant inlet. There isn't a gasket for this piece. Use gasket sealer and be sure to fill in the channel.

The mating surface

 

[bluewavecaptain]

The distributor installed.

When installing the distributor, set the engine at #1 TDC. The rotor on the distributor should be in this area when the distributor is installed.

The alternator installed.



The A/C pump installed. It won't be belted or hooked up. It probably won't stay in, but I wasn't sure about whether I would need that bracket by the tensioner or not.

The power steering pump installed.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

good work. Glad you replaced the injector seals or you would have had the same trouble I did... all of your fuel on the ground.

Also with the starter, Ive done it a few times now on second gens. the passenger mount doesn't have to be removed. You have to move those harnesses over and make a hole. Its a bit of a pain but if you rotate it just right it can come in and out pretty easily. the bolts are best removed from the front with extensions. I can't think of anything better to get that damn nut on the starter terminal though

I had already picked up new upper seals. But I lost one of the lower ones and I wasn't going to pay $8 a piece to rebuild the injectors when I got the whole kit on Ebay for $35.

The starter is a lot easier with the IFS. In the future, if I do any work under the truck, that IFS is coming out first. At least until I do a SAS in the front.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

Man, she's gonna run like brand new when you're finished.

That is my hope, but with all the bulls*$t I've delt with so far, I'm not holding my breath until I hear it run. I wish I would have had the 22RE. Something tells me it would have been much less of a headache. Or the 5VZE swap. Oh well, live and learn.

 

[mikebontoft]

That is my hope, but with all the bulls*$t I've delt with so far, I'm not holding my breath until I hear it run. I wish I would have had the 22RE. Something tells me it would have been much less of a headache. Or the 5VZE swap. Oh well, live and learn.

I dont wish the 22re on anyone. im sure its not as bad but the damn timing cover runs coolant through it. its a 14 hour (book time) job to do the timing chain.

Smart.. I should have done that with the timing marks. Looks like the distributor is advanced more than it should be but you kind of need it running first lol. At least I think its too advanced... I wouldn't know, my tps doesnt work right so i cant set the timing.

Also smart cookie for using an allen wrench. never thought of that one. Somehow i got my tensioner in without compressing. But then I had to pull it apart again and used a pin.


keep up the work, its almost there. Id love to know what your oil pressure gauge reads when its running. mine hardly ever makes out of the first box and i think its just an old sensor.

 

[KidVermicious]

I dont wish the 22re on anyone.

You watch your mouth.

 

[mikebontoft]

now now, I didn't mention ALL of the engines I wouldn't wish on anyone....

 

[Antman]

Just read through this entire thread. Nice writeup and thanks for sharing! I love this stuff...:boink: