My 4gunner restore, refurb and re-work

Other side
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I had these rotors and the warped in ~6 months. Hopefully yours work out better
 
What pads did you use? Glazing occurs for a lot of reasons - curious why yours did so quickly. If I have issues, I will be sure to report it.

Edit / Axe the above question. Just read your build and understand why you glazed them so early / the likely reason anyways... You are running the 199.5mm pads / calipers. Toyota issued a TSB and recommended caliper and pad upgrade to help eliminate the issue / in this the 231mm setup was born. Your new rotors will likely suffer the same fate if used with the same pads / calipers.
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/brake-job-toyota-tundra-brake-caliper-upgrade/

Good resource on what people refer to as a "warped rotor" / what it really means.
http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
 
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10K miles and lots of towing - brakes are still flawless :) Ordered another set for the other 4runner I just bought below..

Bought a 2001 4wd limited on Sunday. She is white, silver with tan / brown interior. 220K. Will be doing the same work to it as well.

The new one is actually cleaner than my SR5! She was garage kept / all verified highway miles and even the original floor mats are perfect as they were covered since new. Az car since day 1 so no corrosion or rust issues. Engine bay looks like it was assembled a year ago it is so clean. Guy did a LOT of maintenance to it with all records. Hell of a purchase for a laughably low price.

I do like my SR5 better. I do not like the painted bumpers (chrome is easier to clean and stays looking better). I do not like the digital climate controls and super heavy power / heated seats.

Already ordered in most of the gear I installed in my 02 in the previous pages. Taking her in for super dark / heat reflective tint in 30 minutes, and tomorrow installing 265/75/16 toyo MT mud terrains as the stock Michelin car tires are shot on it. The 265/75/16 is basically a 32... tiny bit smaller and should not rub. Will look pretty damn good though :)

W1.jpg

W2.jpg

W3.jpg

W4.jpg
 
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Is that the original leather on the seats? If so that's the cleanest leather seats I've seen in a 3rd gen apart from one new off the dealer floor. Great find!
 
Thanks guys. Yes - craigslist find.

The lower drivers seat (in the photo) was re-done by a local shop and it matches the passenger side 100%. The leather overall on the fronts is about 7-8 out of 10. The back is maybe 9 out of 10.

I am going to call the same shop he took it to and have them just re-do the whole fronts to perfection. Their work is impressive!
 
New tires for whitey today :) 265/75/16. Basically a 32". Toyo MT's with matching spare. Also took off the running boards. Looks great for no lift!

t3.jpg


t2.jpg
 
Thanks guys. Yes - craigslist find.

The lower drivers seat (in the photo) was re-done by a local shop and it matches the passenger side 100%. The leather overall on the fronts is about 7-8 out of 10. The back is maybe 9 out of 10.

I am going to call the same shop he took it to and have them just re-do the whole fronts to perfection. Their work is impressive!

Would love to see shots of the whole fronts when done. I'am going to have to follow this thread.
 
It was a busy weekend working on whitey.
- Changed both O2 sensors... shockingly, they were original at 225+K!! I know this as the guy had the car serviced all the time by a local import shop that used denso parts and not toyota oem parts. Both sensors had toyota on them and looked quite old. ZERO idea how this thing was not throwing a code at that kind of mileage.

- Did a drain and fill on the tranny (5 quarts) with toyota T-IV as I have a case of it. Will do 3 more at each oil change interval to keep fluid up. The solution to pollution, is dilution :D

- Greased both front and rear driveshafts

- Change the oil over to rotella T6 with a wix filter

- Changed rear end fluid to 80w90 valvoline

- Installed husky liners front and rear / cargo just as my silver gunner

- Installed a stereo with BT. Did a kenwood DPX501BT and an SW11 under seat sub. Turned out great! Discovered the PO already put in Boston Acoustics FS60 door speakers (old school but sound decent). After a re-wire and cleanup of the hack job - happy with the sound

- Installed a switch for the power antenna so it will only raise if I want it to. Doing the same with my other gunner.


Now for the CRAPPY parts of the weekend

- Discovered the door lock cylinders do not match the ignition. Ask me how i found out lol. Will have a locksmith over after my wallet recovers from the next fun part

- Went to have a chipped key made at home depot. Started to walk in and hit my remote to lock the car and it was like all locks were struggling to lock and no chirp. They would not unlock either. As the day went on, sometimes they would lock and other times they would not. After a lot of research and testing (glad I have another 4runner here) I found the darn Fuse box / Junction box under the dash had failed. The failed part is actually body control module circuit board inside the fuse panel. Loads of reports of this happening. Guess I dodged the bullet with my previous 4runner and my silver one. Will have a new one tomorrow at the tune of $520ish. In all the years I have owned toyotas, this was the first major electrical failure I have had of an OEM component. So I would say I was due.

I am an electronics nerd so I figured it may be a bad solder joint, or a bad relay. But after hours of really digging into it, the failed part is actually one of the controller IC's on the PCB - relays were all good. The signal to the relay coil(s) is erratic, and other times it seems to function normally. I hoped it was something simple so I could pass the info / fix along... but no dice. She is just dead. I could grab a few used modules from car-part.net and probably find one that works... but for how long? So I just bought new as from photos, it looks like denso revised the PCB (will confirm when it arrives)
:ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::frusty::frusty::frusty:
 
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so what part failed on your fuse box, and which fuse box/control

im going junkyard cruise today,,,maybe Ill keep an eye out for one for a future back up if this is a common problem
 
also with all your attention to detail. I see no mention of rear differential breather.
According to my local yota parts man , with nearly 40 years experience he says they feel that 90% of axel seal failures is due to the breather being plugged and the oil taking the path of least resistance, the seals. that the churning of the oil makes pressure, thus the breather
He was telling me this when I was getting a bunch of preventive things just after getting my truck and he said I should get one, well I did the breather mod instead
now luckily I have no seal issues, yet when went to take off the old breather it hissed like a snake

just a thought
 
This is the culprit (The PCB). It is the BCM inside the junction box. The only way to get it, is to buy the whole damn box. I am not sure if there are differences in the boxes themselves.. will have a more detailed look when my new one is in. Otherwise, the PCB just pulls out and no need to unplug the large qty of plugs in the back of the box.

BCM.jpg


On the breather, will check that for sure! My gunners do not see water often being in Arizona... But it is a SMART thing to do. I have it on the list for when I get in the tall / highlander springs for both gunners. All the lift I will be doing.
 
thanks
that's the same springs I ordered from camel back the other day, along with tons of other things, and just waiting on a back ordered part, supposedly getting to them today, so will ship today, so next week its talls and kyb's
 
im beginning to wonder if mine is having problems. a week ago I locked it , was walking away with the keys in my pocket, and the lights and sound went off again, I just figured I must have bumped it
then it did it again yesterday and I was thinking these fobs are sensitive , so got a new battery for it.
I thought it did it about a month ago, but I was near the truck and being very physical ( working on a jetti tdi) late at night and a few bottles of wrench lubricant had been consumed so assumed I bumped the key fob in my pocket so just blew it off
 
Right on, I have had two sets of gas adjusts (kyb) on 4runners. One set on my 98 and I have a set currently on my silver 02. Great affordable units. I will be doing a set on whitey and at that time - will do talls on both gunners. The rears are sagging on whitey but not on the silver gunner. Should add some much needed lift in the arse.
 
Installed the new BCM module last night. Looks like they in fact did not have a noticeable rev change on the PCB. The only thing I noticed was that the main door lock relay changed from a Taiko, to a Panasonic.

Put in a dash mat for Whitey

Got in my new Ultra Gauge OBDII screens. Playing with those. Waiting for some green gel film to come in so I can make the screens match the stock green lighting.
 
Did quite a bit of work to the white war turtle today AKA Whitey...
- PCV valve and hose
- NGK bkr6eix-11 plugs and NGK 4412 wires
- Adjusted rear brakes
- Mounted up my ultragauge which turned out nice
- Gave her a bath and detail
- Shut down the DRL system

What I learned: Toyo MT tires are HEAVY MOFOS! Good lordy!

Random pics from today...
WG1.jpg


The new radio with ultragauge and BT mic. Will make the clock and HVAC match the ultragauge and radio exactly, then will do the gauge cluster in the near future.
WG2.jpg


Here is the switch to manually control the power antenna. I do not like the taco whip so I did this mod so that I only raise the antenna when absolutely needed.
WG3.jpg


If replacing the oem radio or if you have an aftermarket radio
Buy the antenna adapters to combine the glass and power antenna cables

- METRA 40-UV43 $6.99 shipped
- Scosche MDAB adapter $4.50 shipped
- Simply buy a new antenna mast assembly as most of the time, your motor is fine. These install in seconds if you know how (just youtube) $19.99 shipped Toyota 4 Runner Power Antenna Mast 1996 2002 Brand New Stainless Steel | eBay

Last, buy a switch for the antenna. This way you can keep your mast down most all the time as the window antenna works great. If you REALLY need it, just flip the switch and raise the pirate flag for better reception

Splice the switch into the antenna wire which I believe is black/red on the 96-99 and black/white on the 00-02 (need to double check that). If an aftermarket radio, the wire will be blue or blue white depending on the radio and kit. (some radios combine amp turn on with power antenna)

This switch is a flawless fit for a knockout to the left of the steering wheel
Scion OEM Style Rocker Switch I do feel it is overpriced but I never searched for a cheaper direct fit. They also have a lighted one as well.


If you have a stock stereo, just buy the switch and new mast and splice the switch into the antenna wire. DONE.
 
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I am liking this post for all the info/part numbers you are giving. Thank you. Who makes the spring compressor you got and model. Lastly will the ultragauge pull codes?
 
Great job on restoring these 4runners! I see that you posted the toyos are heavy, how bad did your mileage suffer? I bought some 255/75/17 nitto trail grapplers that are load range c and those suckers almost weight 60lbs a piece. My mileage also went from about 22 mpg to 17 mpg on the freeway.
 

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