my slow build/wheeling/everything thread.

[nevada]

A rough wire diagram? Wiring is not my strong point. I can do it if I have a diagram to fallow I've been thinking about doing this exactly

Its been many years, im not sure I remember exactly how I did it. but its pretty simple. wiring is also not my thing..


from the main battery to the dead post.
from the second battery to the switched post. using heavy gauge battery cables or the like.

then you need a trigger wire. I just ran a small wire from the same large post that the second battery connects to. this wire is what powers the solenoid, and allows it to switch. then I ran another wire to the switch post, to a toggle switch in the cab.

going off memory, I think that's how I have it set up.
excuse my mspaint skills....





i cant remember if i have a fuse between the noid and the toggle, but that's probably a good idea to do.

 

[541joseph]

I been many years, im not sure I remember exactly how I did it. but its pretty simple. wiring is also not my thing..


from the main battery to the dead post.
from the second battery to the switched post. using heavy gauge battery cables or the like.

then you need a trigger wire. I just ran a small wire from the same large post that the second battery connects to. this wire is what powers the solenoid, and allows it to switch. then I ran another wire to the switch post, to a toggle switch in the cab.

going off memory, I think that's how I have it set up.
excuses my mspaint skills....





i cant remember if i have a fuse between the noid and the toggle, but that's probably a good idea to do.

Awesome thanks Nevada! I may enroll my boss in this. 30+ years in the auto industry should help in this

 

[basketcase]

If you wanted to get fancy with it, with a couple diodes you could run a wire from each battery so no matter which battery is dead you could switch it on.

 

[nevada]

If you wanted to get fancy with it, with a couple diodes you could run a wire from each battery so no matter which battery is dead you could switch it on.

I actually considered doing that.
but as it is now, the only way I can kill the second battery is if I leave the dual battery switch turned on. in which case, the diode wouldn't help me...

 

[KidVermicious]

Its been many years, im not sure I remember exactly how I did it. but its pretty simple. wiring is also not my thing..


from the main battery to the dead post.
from the second battery to the switched post. using heavy gauge battery cables or the like.

then you need a trigger wire. I just ran a small wire from the same large post that the second battery connects to. this wire is what powers the solenoid, and allows it to switch. then I ran another wire to the switch post, to a toggle switch in the cab.

going off memory, I think that's how I have it set up.
excuse my mspaint skills....





i cant remember if i have a fuse between the noid and the toggle, but that's probably a good idea to do.

Excuse my retardery, but what's the fused jumper wire for? Wouldn't you get your voltage to trigger the solenoid through the toggle switch in the cab?

 

[nevada]

Awesome thanks Nevada! I may enroll my boss in this. 30+ years in the auto industry should help in this

no problem man. it shouldn't be too difficult to do....I figured it out lol

 

[nevada]

Excuse my retardery, but what's the fused jumper wire for? Wouldn't you get your voltage to trigger the solenoid through the toggle switch in the cab?

maybe with a 3 pole noid? I think mine is 4.
I just know that I had run 12v to that post.
its very possible that I used the wrong solenoid....I just know that it works, and has been working configured as is for 5 years or so..

I also don't know that it needs to be fused, I just had a wire with an inline fuse handy so I used it.

 

[nevada]

maybe my toggle switch grounds the solenoid?

honestly I have no idea. its been a long ass time. I could go out and trace the wires if you really needed it.

 

[KidVermicious]

maybe my toggle switch grounds the solenoid?

Ok, I'd buy that. I'm no 12v expert, but that would make your diagram make more sense.

 

[nevada]

has anyone swapped in a Tacoma/tundra rear?

im seriously considering running a 96+ Tacoma 60" WMS rear.
Im building a 64" WMS Dana 60 for the front. I was originally going to use the matching dana 70 for the rear(I already have it) but I don't think its going to work out. too costly to get narrowed/geared/locked etc..

I was thinking of going to a Tacoma rear, with 2" wheel spacers to match the front.


just look at this thing. 1 piece bearing cap! BEEFY!





it is still only an 8" ring gear, but as long as its as strong as the standard 8" it should be fine. I see no reason why it wouldn't be, that bearing cap alone has to make it stronger, much less deflection throughout. the only thing ive read is the axles are a bit weak, but those are easily upgraded.

 

[nevada]

oh, I did take a wheeling trip a few weeks ago. didn't really get any wheeling pics tho. lame.


here are a few I did get tho.

came across a widow maker. there wasn't much holding it on either end. we decided we better get it on the ground.

my buddy trying to toss over a VERY LARGE D-ring shackle. you can see it right at the top of the pic. HUGE.

it took a few tries, but he got it.

all hooked up. we tried just pulling it ourselves first, no luck. we decided we would just tow it with the rope, if for some reason that didn't work, we were going to hook up the winch.

it pulled the knot a little tighter...

but it came down. it hit the ground, broke, and bounced JUST right, and off to each side of the trail. nice.

there were a LOT of trees across the trail, we spent a majority of the day trimming trees. nice that this one cooperated. haha

on the way back, I turned around, and was backing off to the side so someone could get in front of me. it was very difficult to back up, almost like the E-brake was on, or I was dragging an anchor.


OH. look at that.
it was jammed up between the nerf bar and the frame, the other end was stabbing into the ground. no wonder I couldn't back up.

it was jammed in pretty good. its kind of hard to tell, but it dented the floor pan up a bit right there.

was a pretty good trip. but is just re-solidified, I need to get my 60 done and get this thing LOCKED UP.

 

[nevada]

I got the green light for new tires on the truck!

since tires are so bloody expensive, im buying some that I will also be able to use on the 1 ton gear. so they need to be a 17" wheel. so that means new wheels also.

will likely be ordering a set of these:

Raceline Wheels - RT81 Rock 8 (Steel)

of course in the correct bolt pattern. im getting the 17x9.5 with 3" BS.

the tires will be 42" iroks.

14/42-17 to be exact.




I will have to modify the suspension a bit. mostly just some bump stops I think.
also, im thinking the flat bed will have to be reworked rather extensively. as my 36"(actual measured height) tall 38.5" swamper SX's rub as it is...

i'll be sure to get some good pics as I make the changes.


I am excite!

 

[nevada]

just for reference, I found this.

that's a 42 IROK next to a 44" TSL.

from this thread:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/272239-more-42-iroks.html

 

[nevada]

hm. maybe I spoke too soon...

I might get the 42" SX's instead. its what im running currently, they are a very tough tire. if the 42 is as good as they say AND as tough, that should be the way to go. also, they are just a touch over $100 less per tire than the IROKS.


and just about the exact same size.

 

[Hyde802]

I vote sx's. Thats some good lookin rubber.

 

[KidVermicious]

If you already like the SXs and they're cheaper than the Iroks, that's a no-brainer.

 

[nevada]

I vote sx's. Thats some good lookin rubber.

it is a slightly different tread design over the traditional SX's, but I agree it looks good.

If you already like the SXs and they're cheaper than the Iroks, that's a no-brainer.

agreed.

basically, once I decided on getting 42's...I had forgotten the SX came in a 17" wheel. because previously, for the size I CURRENTLY have, they don't offer it in 17". it was just a slight brain fart on my end.



I found the SX's for just under $1800 shipped. a hell of a deal.

this is happening.

i'll be ordering some time next week.

 

[Hyde802]

Nice, this is gonna be fun!

 

[nevada]

I know ive been going back and forth on which rear end im going to use. but ive finally decided to go ahead and use the D70 rear I have. it will cost a bit more to have cut down, and get locked up, but I shouldn't be able to break it, even with the 42's.


I started tearing the 60 down this week, getting it ready to take to the machine shop and have 3 inches taken out of the long side. It will need the kingpins rebuilt in a bad way. I found out someone had been inside there once already, the bushings were missing completely.

I already have the locker, but still have to order gears and steering...its still a ways out before I can use it.

right now the plan is 5.86 gears, and the T-locker for the front, and an ARB in the rear.

 

[nevada]

a bit of tech on the T-locker, since most people have never heard of it.

Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive


that article is the reason I looked into getting one. altho, by that time, they had stopped making them, and were no longer listed on their site.

I decided to give Teraflex a call and see WTF. as it turned out, they still had some units on the shelf, he offered me a GREAT price, so I bought one.

sadly, its for an HP application, and will require me to run a ring gear spacer and longer ring gear bolts. I think this will survive on my rig just fine, as im not a rock crawler. for the price tho, I should have bought his entire stock, and resold them. kicking myself for not...


I should note, the reason I was told(by Teraflex) that they stopped making them, was due to massive failures on the smaller units.
just a basic design issue, with the small D30, D35, and D44 they weren't able to be made as strong because of their smaller size. so they got a bad reputation, and a lot of complaints/returns really quickly, and decided to drop the entire line. apparently the were no reported failures with the D60.


having checked it out myself, its a beefy piece, it should work well.