thanx pat I got it to work. one of the connections had to be really tight in order for it to work. Thanx for all your guys help.
New Fiamm Horn Install
- Thread starter Titanpat57
- Start date
thanx pat I got it to work. one of the connections had to be really tight in order for it to work. Thanx for all your guys help.
VT4runnin
New member
Yes make sure you tighten the bolts. I had the same issue and had to tighten them fully for the horn to work. My set up is a bit different from TitanPat's though. He used one horn on each side of the bracket while I put both horns on one side of the bracket. I didn't have enough give in the wires to set it up any other way really.
Titanpat57
Senior Member
Geez.....I wouldn't see why not...your not touching any of the alarm stuff.
doodman
New member
oh, well i just figured they wired the VIPER to my stock horn so that if someone broke in the horn would go off in conjunction with the VIPER siren tones.... that's why i was thinking a horn mod would have deleterious effects on the VIPER
westwind77
New member
Finally ordered the Fiamms! Should be here by the end of the week for a nice weekend project! 
Have to create a jumper because of the SR5 though.
Have to create a jumper because of the SR5 though.So, how did you manage to remove the locking push pins? Please describe! Also, for the Limited, did you just remove the old horns and install the new ones at the same location? Did the Toyota electrical line hook up directly into the new horns' connectors or did you have to modify the connection? Thanks!
SeattleMike
New member
Seriously? Did you skip all the preceding pages on this thread? The very first post answers most of your questions.
Yes, I did! But, the original writeup indicated that the pair was installed on a T4R that came with one horn and the new ones were installed as a pair, together. My question was concerning a T4R that has two original horns (Limited) and the replacement of those two at their present horn locations! The removal of the tabs was more for additional information on the technique before I tackle this and screw up something! Just looking for some clarification and additional assistance!
SeattleMike
New member
It's all on the first page, although without the pretty pictures. But at least you went back and looked
The tabs have a center button which spreads out the sides underneath the cowling, pinning it in place. If you take a very thin screwdriver blade or small knife blade and insert it underneath the edge of that center pin, you can wedge it up and then pull the whole thing out. Try the ones closest the the engine first, as you can reach under and push the center pin up with your finger and see how it works.
ckon
New member
It's all on the first page, although without the pretty pictures. But at least you went back and looked
The tabs have a center button which spreads out the sides underneath the cowling, pinning it in place. If you take a very thin screwdriver blade or small knife blade and insert it underneath the edge of that center pin, you can wedge it up and then pull the whole thing out. Try the ones closest the the engine first, as you can reach under and push the center pin up with your finger and see how it works.
Actually, it's not necessary to pry up the centers of the clips - I made the same mistake. These are a new type of retainer. All you have to do is push down hard on the center and they will release. Then just retrieve them and reset them when you remove the fan shield.
snow&surf
New member
The other responses you received are correct. You DO NOT need a screwdriver to push the center of the pin down, just push hard with your finger and it will pop-up.
After that, you will need to remove the plastic piece holding the OEM horn closest to the centerline of the vehicle by removing the two gray screws on the top and the one black screw from the front. Once you remove the 3 screws you will need to pull the plastic piece towards the grill to pop it out then pull up to remove. This will give you access to remove the horn.
Remove the yugo horns and install the new horns in the same place. Some people purchased extra wiring because the OEM wiring is not long enough, but all I did was remove/cut the electrical tape from a couple areas on the wire harness to give myself enough slack. You also have to disconnect the wire harness from the support rods Toyota hooked them up to by removing/cutting the electrical tape. This should give you enough slack to connect the wires to the new horns from the top. Test horns. If all is good, secure the horn/wire connection with electrical tape, retape the areas of the wire harness you cut earlier, and retape the wire harness to the support rods. Reinstall the plastic piece and engine cover.
When you reinstall the engine cover the push pins need to be at max height otherwise they won't engage/lock correctly (what I did was use the engine cover to push down on the bottom of the pin so it pops all the way up, this takes some effort). When you reinsert the locking pin, only push the pin down until it is flush with it's top. This will lock it in. If you push too far down it will unlock the pin and you'll have to repeat.
Trial and error, but it worked for me. Hope this helps.
Thanks so much! Great description of the process! This really helps!
Taking out those pins:
Better yet, just use the eraser side of a pencil and apply just enough force to the center of the locking pins to depress the center. The whole pin will then release and pop out.
When replacing the pins, first take the pin, hold it firmly on the outer edges and press the pin down onto a hard surface (your workbench or something)....this will force the center portion back up. You should feel it pop back up. This does require a fair amount of force, but it can easily be done by hand.
Now all you have to do is drop each pin back into it's hole on the truck and, with your thumb, press the center portions back down.
There's no need to be using screwdrivers or anything. You'll just end up scratching something you don't want to.
Better yet, just use the eraser side of a pencil and apply just enough force to the center of the locking pins to depress the center. The whole pin will then release and pop out.
When replacing the pins, first take the pin, hold it firmly on the outer edges and press the pin down onto a hard surface (your workbench or something)....this will force the center portion back up. You should feel it pop back up. This does require a fair amount of force, but it can easily be done by hand.
Now all you have to do is drop each pin back into it's hole on the truck and, with your thumb, press the center portions back down.
There's no need to be using screwdrivers or anything. You'll just end up scratching something you don't want to.
Titanpat57
Senior Member
Nope...add it to your junk box
snow&surf
New member
instructions? i learned from you guys on the forum :cheers:
IOP25
New member
I had a 2000 4Runner and switched them out b/c it had the same horns at the 2010. 2001/2002-2009 had normal horns, not sure why they went back to the road runner horn? I had two horns in my 2000, one horn had two wires and one horn had one wire. The horn with 2 wires I just ripped the wires open and twisted together and grounded both horns to the original bolt that holds them to the frame. Good to go.
