Ol' Ruby build thread

[cl4Rk]

 

[cl4Rk]

 

[cl4Rk]

 

[cl4Rk]

No photos to post (yet) but I’m gearing up for rock sliders, and even better, an e-locker retrofit!

More to come…

- 4xInnovations rock sliders with kickout (DOM, round tube, no tread plate) (RS05-D-K)

- Lower Link Mount Reinforcements (@eimkeith)

- SPC adjustable upper control arms (MEVOTECH CMS861192 & CMS861193, rebranded SPC)

- Alignment Cam Eliminator Plates (333 Fabrication)

- 10mm rear trim packers (2x OME 80PF10)

- Front diff bracket bushings (Durobumps)

- Panhard correction kit (eimkeith)

- Matching set of 4.30 differentials with e-locker

- Toyota low pinion e-locker wiring harness (darkillusionsfabrication). This will let me forego the e-locker ECU and wire it up independently. This comes with trade offs. Locker engagement will not automatically disable ABS, but that’s not too bad since I have an on-the-fly ABS toggle. The real danger is that the locker could be engaged at any speed, so I’ll REALLY want to avoid accidental engagements!

 

[cl4Rk]

Big shout out to 4xInnovations:

I ordered my sliders Tuesday and they arrived today (Saturday)!!

 

[cl4Rk]

 

[cl4Rk]

4.30 front and rear diff with e-locker! Surface rust but nothing bad (way better that my current diffs before their restoration). Since there’s no downtime for the truck I can take my time restoring these. The plan is to rebuild the locker motor, replace all the hardware/fasteners, sandblast, paint, and do the axle seals and front mount bushings.

Big thanks to [MENTION=112124]ToyotaBrah[/MENTION]

 

[brillo_76]

Always best to take your time. As if you throw it together, you have to back in years later and do it again..

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[cl4Rk]

Holy smokes these 333 Fabrications Cam Eliminator Plate bolts are beefy!

EDIT: also pictured is the fog stalk for the factory foggies going in soon. I’m prewired for fog lights so it should be plug-and-play.

 

[Unner]

Nice pile of parts you've got there. Your truck is really clean with the OEM+ look. I'm jealous of the locker and matching front diff you were able to snag.

 

[HiLife]

Awesome you were able to snag a locker!
Prices been bonkers here. Local yard wants $2100 drum to drum. 3 years ago it was $800.
I appreciate your pics and taking us along your journeys

 

[brillo_76]

Wow. I got a set of lockers with vehicle for $500 and I think Randy got his for $150 I think.

Granted mine was before covid.

And these were not rust free too.

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[HiLife]

I think it the rarity of a locker showing up at a yard here these days that's driving up the prices.
No yards local to me has one. Car-Parts listed the only one in my area, and I guess he knows it too. Hence the high price.

 

[octanejunkie]

I just found this build thread and didn't realize how similar our projects are, thanks for posting all of the part numbers that you did lol, I'll probably snag something and add them to my bill thread, and order the things that I still need LOL

Great work so far, looking forward to seeing what else you've got planned. ABS disable was on my list and you made it easy, thank you so much. Hope the locker swap goes well!

 

[cl4Rk]

A couple updates

Bumpers:

I have a Coastal Off-road front bumper and Nguyen Works swing out rear bumper on order, along with a 1” body lift. I REALLY struggled with the decision to move away from the OEM+ look, I just think it looks perfect as is, but in the end, I decided I just want better approach and especially departure angles, and I’d like to run 285s without rubbing and with a full size spare, and maximize up-travel with the IFS. I will probably color-match the bumpers to the Topaz Metallic flares. With the added weight I’ll probably need to change out my springs (currently 880/906). I’ll also be doing the smaller Sequoia brakes at some point soon (my friend has a Sequoia he’s using for a 2UZ swap in his 3rd gen).

E-locker retrofit:

Spent yesterday evening trying to open up the diff housing in order to inspect before moving forward with the swap. Could NOT get this thing to open!! Treated it for a few days penetrating oil, hit it with mapp heat, pry bars, hammers, brass drifts, that little hardened hammer-able gasket blade tool, … nothing worked! The nuts zipped off just fine.

Any tips?

 

[Bad Luck]

I would try tapping a thin/flexible/narrow putty knife between the housing and 3rd member. A 1.5-2” flexible drywall knife would be perfect in my opinion. Shouldn’t damage the mating surfaces either.

 

[brillo_76]

Try to use a bee hive tool. They have another name. I send a photo of it.

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[brillo_76]

It looks like this. I can't recall it's other name.



Amazon.com : WEICHUAN 2PCS Stainless Steel Hive Scraper Tools - Beekeeping Equipment Bee Hive Hand Tool Beekeeper Tool : Patio, Lawn & Garden

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[HiLife]

Are you trying to separate the 3rd member by pulling up while the axle housing is on the ground?
Try using gravity as a tool. Put the housing on the jack stands with the 3rd member pointing to the ground. Break the mating seal with a flat blade without scoring the mating surface too much.
The 3rd member should separate from the axle after giving it a wiggle with some downward pressure.
It one of those tight fitting parts. Pulling at the less than optimal angle it gets dragged on the studs hanging it up.

 

[brillo_76]

I hope its not rusted in which I really doubt as my tetanus 1 3rd member came right out with a little convincing. As it's axle housing was extremely rough.. :/

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