Ordered 295/70r17 cooper discoverer stt pro

We didnt notice any real change in engine effort around town, but even with 285s it downshifts on even minor inclines on the highway. I am almost tempted to go through all the hassles to fit 34s just so I can justify 4.88s, lol.

I would rather it he slightly under-geared than overgeared, anyways. Its a Toyota V6 so a few hundred extra RPMs on the highway arent going to hurt anything, but it will sure help it maintain speed on without hopping gears all the time.
 
I've yet to change the gearing in my early bronco. I know I'm going 4.11's but the labor cost are high. I might try to tackle it myself. Thank God for YouTube.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
That's awesome. Thanks for the lead. I found one place yesterday that makes a 1 inch spacer made in USA with lifetime warranty. But the place you suggested has steel and aluminum spacers.

The wheels are a trd replica. We both really liked that wheel. But as we know they only come in 7 inch wide. I know it's not the end of the world to run a wide tire on a wheel like that, but considering clearances I wanted to keep the tire shorter. The wheels are currently on Craigslist, so if they sell before I can actually work it then I can change the wheel. I also called Total Chaos yesterday and told them about my wheel and tire combo. They said they have never ran that setup. Then said when they have uca rubbing issues, they run 1.25 inch spacers with no issues. So, I may just get 1 tire mounted and play with it on jack stands.

I should note also, the reason we didn't like the fn fx pro wheel was the flat center cap. They just look a little off or unfinished. We do like the scs stealth 6 and ae alloys 115. The ae alloy 115 come in 8.5" wide and 4.45" of back space. But really prefer the trd look.
Hold on. You started the post stating 17x8 5" BS wheels. TRD replica wheels... I would expect those to have less than 5" of BS. But then you got the 7" wide problem. Most shops will not mount a 295 on such a narrow rim. But if it really was only 7" with 5" bs and you could get it mounted. A 1.25" wheel spacer would be about ideal in terms of scrub....
 
Last edited:
Hold on. You started the post stating 17x8 5" BS wheels. TRD replica wheels... I would expect those to have less than 5" of BS. But then you got the 7" wide problem. Most shops will not mount a 295 on such a narrow rim. But if it really was only 7" with 5" bs and you could get it mounted. A 1.25" wheel spacer would be about ideal in terms of scrub....
They are indeed 17x8 with 5 inches of backspace. I measured them my self. They are not from toyota. IPW makes them, I bought replica wheels from them when I had my camaro, and they held up to many a doughnuts.

What do you think about those ae wheels? Do you think at those specs the offset will cause issues? Like additional trimming compared to running what I have now with a 1 inch spacer?
 
Last edited:
We didnt notice any real change in engine effort around town, but even with 285s it downshifts on even minor inclines on the highway. I am almost tempted to go through all the hassles to fit 34s just so I can justify 4.88s, lol.

I would rather it he slightly under-geared than overgeared, anyways. Its a Toyota V6 so a few hundred extra RPMs on the highway arent going to hurt anything, but it will sure help it maintain speed on without hopping gears all the time.

Just for reference... Going to 4.56 and running a 37" tire (if you could) would keep the effective gearing almost exactly the same as stock. You would obviously want a little more tq to turn those tires, but it is a good point of reference. Running 4.88 with a 285 would put you around 2700 rpms at 75mph. Stock 5th gen is around 2200. 4.56 would put it at about 2500.

My point is that 4.56 is a much better choice for all around overland use up to a 35" tire. Those higher RPMs (even just 200 more) kill mpg in a major way.
 
They are indeed 17x8 with 5 inches of backspace. I measured them my self. They are not from toyota. IPW makes them, I bought replica wheels from them when I had my camaro, and they held up to many a doughnuts.

What do you think about those ae wheels? Do you think at those specs the offset will cause issues? Like additional trimming compared to running what I have now with a 1 inch spacer?

Are you measuring lip to lip... If so.. it's a 7" rim.
 
No inside lip to inside lip.

OK, I misread your post. I thought you said they were 7" , but after I read again... I think you were referring to the actual TRD wheels.

The 5" BS still throws me off. Why would they make a replica wheel that won't fit the trucks it is a replica for. Strange.
 
OK, I misread your post. I thought you said they were 7" , but after I read again... I think you were referring to the actual TRD wheels.

The 5" BS still throws me off. Why would they make a replica wheel that won't fit the trucks it is a replica for. Strange.
Agreed. Maybe they didn't think people would be putting such wide tires on. But then why would you want a wider wheel.

So it's either these wheels with 1" or 3/4" spacer, scs stealth 6 with no concerns, or the ae alloy 115 that's 8.5" wide with 4.452" of backspace.
 
What about gearing with that tire size? I've been wheeling broncos for awhile and when I moved from a 30" tire to a 33", a gearing change was in order.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

There's no need for a re-gear for 295's. It would be nice for sure, but the vehicle performs just fine with these tires and the stock 3.73's.
 
That's awesome. Thanks for the lead. I found one place yesterday that makes a 1 inch spacer made in USA with lifetime warranty. But the place you suggested has steel and aluminum spacers.

The wheels are a trd replica. We both really liked that wheel. But as we know they only come in 7 inch wide. I know it's not the end of the world to run a wide tire on a wheel like that, but considering clearances I wanted to keep the tire shorter. The wheels are currently on Craigslist, so if they sell before I can actually work it then I can change the wheel. I also called Total Chaos yesterday and told them about my wheel and tire combo. They said they have never ran that setup. Then said when they have uca rubbing issues, they run 1.25 inch spacers with no issues. So, I may just get 1 tire mounted and play with it on jack stands.

I should note also, the reason we didn't like the fn fx pro wheel was the flat center cap. They just look a little off or unfinished. We do like the scs stealth 6 and ae alloys 115. The ae alloy 115 come in 8.5" wide and 4.45" of back space. But really prefer the trd look.

Got it. By the way, the FN wheels will take an oem trd center cap. That's how
I ran my counter steer X's before I sold them to a friend. Pic stolen from https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fn-fx-pro-wheels.408321/
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2002.JPG
    IMG_2002.JPG
    94 KB · Views: 1,204
Just for reference... Going to 4.56 and running a 37" tire (if you could) would keep the effective gearing almost exactly the same as stock. You would obviously want a little more tq to turn those tires, but it is a good point of reference. Running 4.88 with a 285 would put you around 2700 rpms at 75mph. Stock 5th gen is around 2200. 4.56 would put it at about 2500.

My point is that 4.56 is a much better choice for all around overland use up to a 35" tire. Those higher RPMs (even just 200 more) kill mpg in a major way.

Doh! Totally meant 4.56s.

Though, I would disagree with the mileage thing. For example, I regeared my samurai pretty high. It was turning 4k at 70mph with 31s. Still, it was able to cruise at higher speeds than with stock gears, AND got better mileage due to running at a more efficient rpm range. Obviously, different vehicle and different engibe, but I have never personally found RPM itself to strongly correlate to fuel consumption.
 
295's take a bit of trimming in the front. Not for the faint of heart.
Testing out the not so long travel long travel.... sway bar endlinks were swapped out for longer ones after this trip, full flex regained.
Bit very aggressive BMC, mud flap removed, fender flare trimmed almost completely off, fender liner pushed forward, and bumper trimmed a lot, and fender well beat back with a massive sledge hammer and a block of wood. Got to pay to play...







 
295's take a bit of trimming in the front. Not for the faint of heart.
Testing out the not so long travel long travel.... sway bar endlinks were swapped out for longer ones after this trip, full flex regained.
Bit very aggressive BMC, mud flap removed, fender flare trimmed almost completely off, fender liner pushed forward, and bumper trimmed a lot, and fender well beat back with a massive sledge hammer and a block of wood. Got to pay to play...







Can you show pics of the bumper and flare trimming? I would appreciate it.
 
Can you show pics of the bumper and flare trimming? I would appreciate it.

don't have any at the moment of them. you can kinda see the flare trim in the last pic. But my caster is set at 3.6 and I trimmed and capped my body mount the furthest you can possibly go. Also you will need to fold back the lower fender mount and beat the pinch weld flat too. along with getting very friendly with a sedge hammer to the fender well (for when the wheel stuffs up and back on a down hill bump.

Ill get you photos as soon as I can, but there is no cut and dry "do this to clear 295's instructions." you have to cut and trim, turn the wheels, cut and trim some more, flex it out, trim some more, take it off road and hear the rubbing, stop on the trail and mark it with a sharpie where its rubbing, go home trim some more hahaha

do this about 5 times and your good to go haha.

The rear is simple, buy longer rear links. when the tire stuffs up into the wheel well it hit my rear door. 1/4 longer rear links solved the problem.
 
don't have any at the moment of them. you can kinda see the flare trim in the last pic. But my caster is set at 3.6 and I trimmed and capped my body mount the furthest you can possibly go. Also you will need to fold back the lower fender mount and beat the pinch weld flat too. along with getting very friendly with a sedge hammer to the fender well (for when the wheel stuffs up and back on a down hill bump.

Ill get you photos as soon as I can, but there is no cut and dry "do this to clear 295's instructions." you have to cut and trim, turn the wheels, cut and trim some more, flex it out, trim some more, take it off road and hear the rubbing, stop on the trail and mark it with a sharpie where its rubbing, go home trim some more hahaha

do this about 5 times and your good to go haha.

The rear is simple, buy longer rear links. when the tire stuffs up into the wheel well it hit my rear door. 1/4 longer rear links solved the problem.
I figured as much. Just wanted a visual on what it looked like. Your build looks very nice. Hoping mine will look as clean.
 
Ok so we are thinking of switching wheels. We are looking at the xd machete 128. Specs are 17x9 -12mm os and 4.53" bs. I know 9 inches wide is not the best idea. But at those specs will I run into anymore issues then i will with my current 17x8 with 5" bs and a 1 inch wheel spacer?
 
Ok so we are thinking of switching wheels. We are looking at the xd machete 128. Specs are 17x9 -12mm os and 4.53" bs. I know 9 inches wide is not the best idea. But at those specs will I run into anymore issues then i will with my current 17x8 with 5" bs and a 1 inch wheel spacer?

Regardless of what you do you are going to have to cut and trim and beat and trim some more to fit those tires. The further out the centerline of the tire is the worse it is going to be.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,113
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top