Ordered 295/70r17 cooper discoverer stt pro

Ok so we are thinking of switching wheels. We are looking at the xd machete 128. Specs are 17x9 -12mm os and 4.53" bs. I know 9 inches wide is not the best idea. But at those specs will I run into anymore issues then i will with my current 17x8 with 5" bs and a 1 inch wheel spacer?

Current wheels with 1" spacers should be easier to clear. Reason...

5" BS 8" wheel + 1" Wheel spacer. = 4" BS with 5" outboard centerl ine.
4.5 BS 9" wheel = 4.5BS with 5.5" outboard center line.

Now the 9" wheel will flatten the tire a bit... but still the big clearance issue is turning and scurb angles.
 
Current wheels with 1" spacers should be easier to clear. Reason...

5" BS 8" wheel + 1" Wheel spacer. = 4" BS with 5" outboard centerl ine.
4.5 BS 9" wheel = 4.5BS with 5.5" outboard center line.

Now the 9" wheel will flatten the tire a bit... but still the big clearance issue is turning and scurb angles.
I really wish it came in 17x8 or 8.5. There are very few wheels I like that are 17x8/8.5 and have between 4-4.5 inches of bs.
 
Question. How much better is the actual off road performance with a 295?

Cooper lists a 265/70/17 as 31.57" x 8.62"; and the 295/70/17 as 33.35" x 9.41". So less than 2" taller and wider.

Is there a significant enough increase in traction to warrant the trimming/modifying of the wheel well areas? I get that you gain 0.89" ground clearance, but that doesn't seem like enough to do anything.
 
Question. How much better is the actual off road performance with a 295?

Cooper lists a 265/70/17 as 31.57" x 8.62"; and the 295/70/17 as 33.35" x 9.41". So less than 2" taller and wider.

Is there a significant enough increase in traction to warrant the trimming/modifying of the wheel well areas? I get that you gain 0.89" ground clearance, but that doesn't seem like enough to do anything.

The short answer is yes. Definitely.
 
Question. How much better is the actual off road performance with a 295?

Cooper lists a 265/70/17 as 31.57" x 8.62"; and the 295/70/17 as 33.35" x 9.41". So less than 2" taller and wider.

Is there a significant enough increase in traction to warrant the trimming/modifying of the wheel well areas? I get that you gain 0.89" ground clearance, but that doesn't seem like enough to do anything.

Short answer... it depends on your priorities.

It's surprising how much difference a small change makes. I hear people use the it's not even 2" inch difference.... argument all the time. That logic does not really work for off-road.. I know it's not obvious from a common sense standpoint... but it does make a big difference when you do all the math and experience it first hand. You have to look at the big picture of the truck though... Tires are not the only thing at play, but all else being equal more tire and more track width is almost always better.

Just make sure you air them down properly... That is a big part of running a larger tire.

The difference between a good day off-road and a miserable one... is often 1". Part of what makes it fun.
 
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But is it worth the extra effort over a 285/70/17?

As I had mentioned in a previous post in this thread, there's a lot of work to do even if you're only going up to 285's, the incremental for 295's isn't that much more. Certainly wish I would have went right to 295 or 315 instead of going to 285 first; it would have saved me quite a bit of money in re-work.
If looks are what you're after, then the additional work to fit that size or two larger is definitely worth it. If you're looking for gains in the offroad department, not quite as much, but they are there.

All of this being said, I'm not sure that the OP of this thread has even mentioned if he is taking this vehicle offroad, so it all might just be a gigantic waste of time and money imo. But to each their own.
 
As I had mentioned in a previous post in this thread, there's a lot of work to do even if you're only going up to 285's, the incremental for 295's isn't that much more. Certainly wish I would have went right to 295 or 315 instead of going to 285 first; it would have saved me quite a bit of money in re-work.
If looks are what you're after, then the additional work to fit that size or two larger is definitely worth it. If you're looking for gains in the offroad department, not quite as much, but they are there.

All of this being said, I'm not sure that the OP of this thread has even mentioned if he is taking this vehicle offroad, so it all might just be a gigantic waste of time and money imo. But to each their own.
Already have 2 trips planned for January. [emoji57].
 
Ok guys. I'm starting to plan my intial trimming and cutting. On the bmc what how far back should I go? 1, 2 or 3? I feel more them comfortable with any of them. But I would like to maintain as much of the original as possible, but I also only want to cut it once. Any suggestions?
 

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Here's my driver's side rear wheel well for reference. I would recommend cutting things back as far as they'll safely go (pretty much as pictured), and leaving it open so you can get the wash gun in there and clean things out regularly.



 
Here's my driver's side rear wheel well for reference. I would recommend cutting things back as far as they'll safely go (pretty much as pictured), and leaving it open so you can get the wash gun in there and clean things out regularly.




Looks like your cut it right around my number 1 line?
 
Looks like your cut it right around my number 1 line?
Difficult to tell from the angle of your picture.
As long as the side supports (front and rear of the body mount bracket) encompass the majority of body mount bushing(virutally all of it), it will be strong enough.
I had my BMC done by a shop that had done many in the past. I'd recommend that route, but if you're comfortable I guess give it a shot.
 
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You will want to be around #2. Pretty much start at the center-line of the body mount (if you were looking at it from the front of the vehicle). It can then angle back in a couple of different ways to leave most of the material in place. I would never leave it open and not box it back in (but that is just me). I like things to look factory and to be as strong as possible. I took a crappy picture of mine... (sorry it is muddy at the moment).
 

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You will want to be around #2. Pretty much start at the center-line of the body mount (if you were looking at it from the front of the vehicle). It can then angle back in a couple of different ways to leave most of the material in place. I would never leave it open and not box it back in (but that is just me). I like things to look factory and to be as strong as possible. I took a crappy picture of mine... (sorry it is muddy at the moment).
That's what I originally wanted to do. But the 3rd line came after staring at it for 30 minutes. Thought 1 was I'm effing crazy for cutting a brand new car, thought 2 was well if you going to cut it do it right! Then I took a straight edge from the inner corner of the body mount, to where it was about 1/4" from the rubber. And that's where the line came up to 3.

I really do like the look of the rounded caps. But something tells me leave it as long as possible for some reason. Not sure if really helps in an accident, but just in case I guess.
 
That's what I originally wanted to do. But the 3rd line came after staring at it for 30 minutes. Thought 1 was I'm effing crazy for cutting a brand new car, thought 2 was well if you going to cut it do it right! Then I took a straight edge from the inner corner of the body mount, to where it was about 1/4" from the rubber. And that's where the line came up to 3.

I really do like the look of the rounded caps. But something tells me leave it as long as possible for some reason. Not sure if really helps in an accident, but just in case I guess.
Yea, I left as much as possibe.. Mine is shaped something like this... hard to see from the picture...
 

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So I got the chop done, lift done and tires mounted.

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Still rubbed the rear of the fenders after alignment. So I cut half of the pinch seam down there and the black rocker panel at the bottom of the fender.

Sent my wife to do the alignment today. And these are the numbers. What do you guys think.
IMG_4338.jpg
 

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Sent my wife to do the alignment today. And these are the numbers. What do you guys think.
View attachment 232086

Driver's and Passenger's Caster measurements are quite a bit different. They should be closer than that, at least they always have been on my alignments.
This may be within the tolerance of the shop you had it done at, but I'd keep them within 0.5deg of each other.
Mind you, I've read several threads where people were seeing the better part of a degree of difference between the two sides from the factory, so...
 
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