Poll: Regear to 4.30 or 4.56

Which gears?

  • 4.30

    Votes: 5 13.2%
  • 4.56

    Votes: 23 60.5%
  • Leave it at 4.10

    Votes: 10 26.3%

  • Total voters
    38
YES, custom drivetrain! A transmission from a locomotive and driveshafts from .120 wall DOM do it, you think?

This is all an excellent plan, Hepar. Looking forward to the build.

It was all coming together nicely, until you mentioned a locomotive transmission...

As anyone can tell you, there are no transmissions in locomotives. Geeze, lets be realistic here. :D
 
It was all coming together nicely, until you mentioned a locomotive transmission...

As anyone can tell you, there are no transmissions in locomotives. Geeze, lets be realistic here. :D

They have communications devices...which trasmit...so maybe he meant a "nice job" transmission from the locomotive's radio. Sheesh :D
 
Trust me, I've strongly considered charging the runner, in any form whether it be S/C, etc. I just had a child so the money that could've/would've been invested into that, now goes into baby food and diapers. :cry:

I honestly think SC is the best bang-for-buck to regain power. Turbo is going to take longer to spool, so you're punching it and waiting. Has anyone turbo'd a 3.4? Guessing it was a small BB turbo that spools up faster?
 
It was all coming together nicely, until you mentioned a locomotive transmission...

As anyone can tell you, there are no transmissions in locomotives. Geeze, lets be realistic here. :D

Well, um...

They have communications devices...which trasmit...so maybe he meant a "nice job" transmission from the locomotive's radio. Sheesh :D
... I meant this. Yeah, let's go with this.

Turbo is going to take longer to spool, so you're punching it and waiting.

I r not turbo smrt, but it's my understanding that that's what the T3/T4 turbo is for, because it spools like a small turbo but grunts like a large one. There's several turbo 5VZE trucks on the board - [MENTION=75824]Clownmeat[/MENTION] comes to mind.
 
Last edited:
All joking aside, I just stepped up from p rated 265/70R16s to 265/75R16 C. It's not much difference, but it's just enough to notice. Makes me more likely to want to do a elocker retrofit later on for the side benefit of 4.30 diffs.
 
All joking aside, I just stepped up from p rated 265/70R16s to 265/75R16 C. It's not much difference, but it's just enough to notice. Makes me more likely to want to do a elocker retrofit later on for the side benefit of 4.30 diffs.

I didn't notice much of a difference with just tires either. But after tires, lift, bumper and sliders I do notice quite a bit of difference.

...but I'd love to see a Diesel-Electric conversion. So, get down on it!

Now you're talking!
 
[MENTION=49649]KidVermicious[/MENTION] when I was a Sentra owner (SR20DE) guys running t3/t4 were later spoolers but big power makers (400WHP in some cases). The T66 ball bearing turbos were the smaller gain, quicker spool turbos.
 
All joking aside, I just stepped up from p rated 265/70R16s to 265/75R16 C. It's not much difference, but it's just enough to notice. Makes me more likely to want to do a elocker retrofit later on for the side benefit of 4.30 diffs.

Depending on the particular 4Runner Ie: I4, V6, auto or manual transmission, the factory E-locker's were also an option with 4.10, and 4.56 gearing.
 
I honestly think SC is the best bang-for-buck to regain power. Turbo is going to take longer to spool, so you're punching it and waiting. Has anyone turbo'd a 3.4? Guessing it was a small BB turbo that spools up faster?
Countless 3.4 turbo builds on the web. Not all 3rd gen runners but same engine.. Tacoma's , etc.. Under hood turbos, rear mount setups, and I can think of Dylan (rocklobster), clownmeat and yoterman off the top of my head forum member wise who have builds and pics here. I really like the rear mount setup and I've got a list of parts I've been sitting on for a while now. For me its the chance to build a setup and enjoy doing it while making power more accessible on demand with of course, psssssshhh pssssssshh .. turbo sounds me like
 
If I was more mechanically inclined, I'd look more into a turbo setup. But I had trouble making an ashtray in shop class.
 
If you need help swapping Axles, I can't help. Not hard to do.

Thanks. Definitely appreciate the offer. If I ever actually decide what I want to do, I may take you up on it. I'm actually comfortable with the idea of having to swap axles, but not so much on the idea of building and installing a turbo setup.
 
I used to race back in the day and building the block is way more intense compared to just swapping Axles. More money, more time.
 
Countless 3.4 turbo builds on the web. Not all 3rd gen runners but same engine.. Tacoma's , etc.. Under hood turbos, rear mount setups, and I can think of Dylan (rocklobster), clownmeat and yoterman off the top of my head forum member wise who have builds and pics here. I really like the rear mount setup and I've got a list of parts I've been sitting on for a while now. For me its the chance to build a setup and enjoy doing it while making power more accessible on demand with of course, psssssshhh pssssssshh .. turbo sounds me like

:offtopic:
What housing are you using, any specs you'd care to share?
 
Depending on the particular 4Runner Ie: I4, V6, auto or manual transmission, the factory E-locker's were also an option with 4.10, and 4.56 gearing.

Yeah, I remember reading that, but my understanding is that the 4.30s with elocker were more common, and the 4.56 would be very hard to find. But if i could find it, 4.56 would be really cool. Of course I'd have to Find a 4.56 front diff too.
 
:agree:

Do not fear the RPM. RPM is your friend. The 5vze LIKES to rev. And it isn't about whether you rock crawl or mall crawl, it's about keeping your RPMs inside the power band. The 5vze/auto is an ok combination as long as you're in the factory ratios, but even those are low (in the name of fuel mileage). Look at your HP/torque curve and you'll see where the usable power is. To get your RPMs into the meat of that curve you want higher diff gears. Remember that your 315s aren't just bigger around than stock, they're also also significantly heavier, so even just to get back to factoryesque performance, you need to gear higher than the factory gear-to-tire ratio. I say if you're going to regear and have 315s with the auto, go with the 4.88s all day. No question about it.

not to mention the added rolling resistance. you cant just use a gearing calculator and go by that. to get it back to where it was before, you almost always have to go just a touch lower on the gears. but sometimes the next gear set down is too low for a DD rig and you just have to deal with it...


for the OP I would agree with most above, 4.56 to make it worth doing.
 
The only way I would consider 4.30 is if you have no aftermarket skids or bumpers, you have a manual trans, spend most of your time in low elevation, never plan on going with bigger tires and you are getting a good deal on complete diffs from a donor vehicle.

If you decide you are in the market for 4.30 diffs I have one for you.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I remember reading that, but my understanding is that the 4.30s with elocker were more common, and the 4.56 would be very hard to find. But if i could find it, 4.56 would be really cool. Of course I'd have to Find a 4.56 front diff too.

The 4.56 e-locker diffs are really hard to find. Not many 4cyls were made with the e-locker, so they don't pop up that often. The front diff's can be found in 4cyl auto Tacoma's I believe, so there are more of those around if anyone wanted to just go OEM up front. Also I believe non-locker 4runners can use the rear diff from a 2nd gen. I'm pretty sure [MENTION=51233]Mauzer[/MENTION] used a 4.88 diff from a 2nd gen in the back and there are a bunch of 4.88 and 4.56 2nd gens out there.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top