Power Inverter Installation 2001 T4R With Shore Power

Rock_Rat

Senior Member
Just about finished with my acoustic installation, spray dead, and carpet upgrade. Ready to begin building my wiring schematics for a pure sine wave inverter and begin running the wires before I close up the panels.

I have two questions:
  1. Has anyone added the Shore Power option with a charger in your system? If so what was your location? Lessons learned if you had to do it over again...
  2. Anyone extend their AC through a bus bar (fused of course) so all you can see are the AC outlets, keeping the inverter hidden, yet easy enough access to replace fuses or reset the GFCI if needed?

I'm considering installing it inside the right rear sidewall panel in the storage area I never use. Problem is the length of the wire from the second battery. Will also have to run 2AWG more than likely.

This isn't about "need" it's only about "want" just for the sake of doing it the way the factory would do it. I figured since I have the interior all tore apart I might as well install an 1800 Watt Pure Sine Inverter. Overkill for me but I only want to do this once. No rush..
 

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I'm currently doing a similar project with a 2000 watt pure sine inverter. I will be mounting it under the driver's seat. I'm using #00 gage welding cable to run to the battery. I plan on using a short extension cord from the inverter to the center console, for two AC outlets there. And a longer extension cord from the inverter to the rear cargo area for a single AC outlet there.

Interested in seeing what you come up with.
 
Closed Cell Foam

Sorry for the off topic question


What's the black may you're using in there?

No problem. It's 1/2" closed cell foam. You can see a few other pics here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ou-do-your-3rd-gen-today-683.html#post1979663

Used Spray Dead, 80mil Rattle Trap, 1/2" closed cell foam, jute with carpet. Not entirely but mostly in the cargo area and the back seat area. I'll get a thread going on that when I get a bit of time. Trying to get the schematics down for a solid inverter before I close everything up. Want to do it right the first time with no regrets.
 
I'm currently doing a similar project with a 2000 watt pure sine inverter. I will be mounting it under the driver's seat. I'm using #00 gage welding cable to run to the battery. I plan on using a short extension cord from the inverter to the center console, for two AC outlets there. And a longer extension cord from the inverter to the rear cargo area for a single AC outlet there.

Interested in seeing what you come up with.

I like the idea of having the inverter as close to the battery as possible. I also like the idea of being able to plug into my outlet at the house to run a "deep" charge. It extends the life of your batteries by about 30%. Also want to add the additional outlets from the AC side through a bus bar. If not it's like having a fire hose feeding a drip irrigation system.
 
I like the idea of having the inverter as close to the battery as possible. I also like the idea of being able to plug into my outlet at the house to run a "deep" charge. It extends the life of your batteries by about 30%. Also want to add the additional outlets from the AC side through a bus bar. If not it's like having a fire hose feeding a drip irrigation system.

What inverter are you using? Or should I say, are you using an inverter/charger, or a separate charger?

An inverter/charger would have it's own transfer switch built in, but if you only want to plug in to charge, and it's a separate charger, you don't need a transfer switch. My concern is keeping this unit or units cool, other people have put them where you want to, but I don't know how much use they get, or how good they work out. The charger would get pretty hot if you let it run all night, of course if it's a smart charger it might be more accepting of the low air flow. So what will you be using?

:hungry:
 
Inverter Charger

What inverter are you using? Or should I say, are you using an inverter/charger, or a separate charger?

An inverter/charger would have it's own transfer switch built in, but if you only want to plug in to charge, and it's a separate charger, you don't need a transfer switch. My concern is keeping this unit or units cool, other people have put them where you want to, but I don't know how much use they get, or how good they work out. The charger would get pretty hot if you let it run all night, of course if it's a smart charger it might be more accepting of the low air flow. So what will you be using?

:hungry:

Just to start out - I'm only in the design stages so I haven't picked anything out yet. I would rather "measure twice - cut once" if you know what I mean. I don't want to have to do the job over again because I went too small or left out extra AC outlets, etc....

I agree with you about the cooling. That's my biggest concern. As for the AC outlets I think they would be used in the front as well for a laptop or compressor.

Sooo...moving forward, penciled in on paper so far is the following:

The one I'm considering is the: AIMS Power PWRIG200012120S 2000 Watt/4000 Watt Surge Pure Sine Power Inverter - See more at: AIMS Power PWRIG200012120S 2000 Watt Pure Sine Power Inverter

My other option is possibly the less expensive: Xantrex 806-1220 PROwatt SW 2000

The isolator I'm looking at is: Mastervolt 83012021 BI 1202-S with the built in shunts for cooling. And an automatic transfer switch (I might have to spend more on a better one) PowerMax PMTS-50 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch

Again, I don't have anything completely mapped out yet. I'm in the design stage right now with a budget of around 500-1K to do it right.

Thanks
 
So I think I may need to increase my budget for this mod. I'm looking at this model:
Xantrex 805-2020 Power Inverter/Charger 2000W | 12 Volt - See more at: Xantrex 805-2020 Power Inverter/Charger 2000W | 12 Volt

Just need to check out the reliability on it. I'm open to other options. Again, still in the pencil stage...

Weeeeelll, you came to the right place. As it stands I have a lot of experience with the Prosine 2.0.

First let me say, it works awesome, if you use the Xantrex display you can control it remotely and monitor everything. Been involved in probably 6 installations for this thing. Love the concept.

That being said, in the RV world they have a bad rep, because they DO go bad, not if, only when. 2 years, 4 years, 6 years. And boom, it's bad, and you can't fix it, no one will work on it, not even Xantrex. And it does stretch the budget.

The Freedom series from Xantrex is more bullet proof, but a lot bigger and not any less expensive. In fact more likely MORE expensive. But you don't need what those things can do anyway. Sure is nice to have it all in one little package. Other wise you got a charger here, a converter/charger over there, a transfer switch mucking things up.

So yeah, you got some planning to do. I'd love to be there doing it with you, been over two years since I did one from scratch. I love that stuff.

:thumb:
 
I can't speak of that model in particular, but we use Xantrex inverters at work for residential solar systems. They are a good brand, however, IBallEngineer is right when it comes to them going out. For the larger ones, guaranteed to go out by 7-8 years. It's one of our selling points that we warranty the inverter for 30 years so you save a few thousand dollars at least 3 or 4 times.

One way to maximize the lifespan is to keep them as cool as possible. That'll be pretty hard in a vehicle, especially if you put it under the hood. You might consider doing something like what Ford did with the Escape Hybrid and have a cooling system for the battery pack. Maybe an A/C in line to keep it cool and some logic to turn on and off at certain temperature levels? I typically over design everything in my head, but this might be worth it in the long run if it can save your inverter for an extra year or two.

Look forward to seeing the final products, both this and the sound deadening!
 

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