Power Lock failure - BAD dealer advice I think

A

adder70

New member
So, all of my locks on my 4Runner stopped locking at once. Unlock just fine. i posted here and got advice to look at a central relay.

Finally went to the dealer after trying to get the part that was apparently for a 97 4Runner as posted so I couldn't identify the relay needed.

Went to dealer this morning and they quickly called saying all 5 actuators were bad. REALLY?!?!?! FIVE actuators all died at EXACTLY the same time?!?! The service advisor was going to talk the technician and get back to me.

Wondering what to do if they stick with their story that the actuators all failed at once. Any advice?
 
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While I've not had this problem, I did some searching on it; being as I'm a former electronics tech in the Navy, I was immediately suspicious of something 'centralized' (as opposed to ALL FIVE actuators. LOL)

From what I'm seeing online, a lot of guys have supposedly had to replace the fuse block/controller underneath and to the left (I think) of the steering wheel. Will nose around a bit more and see if I can get more exact info.
 
Kung said:
...aaaand I got some info for ya.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/40270-doors-will-unlock-but-wont-lock.html

On the second page there's a link to Parts.com; it lists a junction block. If literally ALL four will unlock but won't lock, I'd suspect the junction block; otherwise, individual actuators, I think. I'm sure others will chime in.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I missed this when I searched before a similar posting a couple of months ago (I've been manually locking since then, including all 4 doors and yes, the liftgate as well! :frusty: ) and so did the respondents, including the one who pointed to a central relay that was apparently from the early 3rd gens. I guess the relay was intregrated into the junction block by 2000. We'll see what they say. I wonder if they have yet to call because they realized that the actuators are OK and don't know about the junction block.
 
Having all five go out at once is very unlikely, if not impossible. I would be speaking to the service manager if they stick with their story of all 5 actuators being bad.
 
adder70 said:
Thanks. I missed this when I searched before a similar posting a couple of months ago (I've been manually locking since then, including all 4 doors and yes, the liftgate as well! :frusty: ) and so did the respondents, including the one who pointed to a central relay that was apparently from the early 3rd gens. I guess the relay was intregrated into the junction block by 2000. We'll see what they say. I wonder if they have yet to call because they realized that the actuators are OK and don't know about the junction block.
Click to expand...

No worries man; I had to search around for a while myself, and I'm an IT guy so I'm supposedly 'good' at this. LOL
 
They finally responded a bit aog with a request to pay for an hour of diagnostic time to take off the door panels and check the actuators and the power window switch. I'll try the junction box replacement first!
 
adder70 said:
They finally responded a bit aog with a request to pay for an hour of diagnostic time to take off the door panels and check the actuators and the power window switch. I'll try the junction box replacement first!
Click to expand...

they will chase all mechanical components before they even start thinking electrical ....i'm with others in thinking 5 actuators all went at the same time, if that happened you'd probably be having other issues as well, tell them if they want to pull the doors to chase the actuators to do so on their own dime, you shouldn't have to pay for bad diagnosis work, tell them you're willing to pay the $80 and hour if they start looking at the electrical control system for these as opposed to actuators......i'm wondering if a frayed wire in one of the door joints could cause a failure like this ....i don't know how the circuit is completed in that system so just a guess...but i certainly wouldn't pay them to start fooling around with (5) actuators..... also i'm pretty sure you can check the switch without pulling the card.....
 
Not sure what it was, but after picking up the car (nothing done, no charge) I went home and after getting out of the car absentmindedly hit the lock button on my remote. LOCK!.... Huh? Ok. unlock, and, :lock1:!! :rockon:
Soooo... fingers crossed that they continue to work at least for a while.
 
Argh, the locks quit working again.

I guess I'll try the junction box replacement (and check connections while I'm in the electronics since the issue could be a broken connector in the box or just a loose connection in the wiring) and let you know what happens. Hopefully I can get it by the weekend since I have a business trip next week and my wife will make me pay :50cal:for unloading this issue on her for most of a week! :)
 
adder70 said:
Argh, the locks quit working again.

I guess I'll try the junction box replacement (and check connections while I'm in the electronics since the issue could be a broken connector in the box or just a loose connection in the wiring) and let you know what happens. Hopefully I can get it by the weekend since I have a business trip next week and my wife will make me pay :50cal:for unloading this issue on her for most of a week! :)
Click to expand...

Whenever my wife complains about driving my Runner when it has a minor issue, I just remind her we could be paying 4-500 a month for a newer one!
 
passenger and rear locks not working

Was an answer ever found on this? I have a similar problem.

The driver inside button will only lock/unlock the driver door. It does nothing for the passenger or rear locks.

The PASSENGER inside button will only lock/unlock the DRIVERS door. The passenger button does nothing for the passenger lock or the rear locks.

Neither the driver or passenger lock button work for the rear doors.

So, in a nutshell:

Driver button works driver lock ONLY.

Passenger button works DRIVER lock ONLY. (this is what seems weird)

No buttons work rear or passenger door.

I doubt I had three actuators die at the same time (passenger, and both rear locks).

Is this a fuse/control box issue or is there something (relay) in the driver’s door that is bad?

Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
 
I'm with you. I've been contending with my 5 lock actuators not operating properly on my 2001 once the temp. gets close to 90 deg. (Arizona). They become erratic until the temp. drops. Having over 40 yrs. experience in electronic engineering and the same in doing my own auto repair, I knew it had to be a pwr. transistor or IC driving a pwr. relay to operate the door locks. My dealer claims that I need all 5 actuators for the low cost of approx. $1300. When I disputed the impossibilities of this, he just flipped me off. I'm still trying to track out where this Body ECU, Junction Box, module that plugs into the fuse box, or what ever you call it, is located. I found the fuse box, but I'll be darned if I can see any plugin module or for that matter, how to pull that box. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
I have the exact same issue with my 2001. I've done searches all over T4R.org and yotatech, everyone says that the Fuse Junction Box needs to be replaced.

On parts.com it's about $390 vs. $410 at the stealership. This part seems silly expensive for what it does.

One post said that he removed the box and cleaned it with electronic cleaner and its been working ever since. That will be my weekend project and I'll update how it goes. Wish me luck.
 
I'm certainly curious why the dealership would even try to claim all actuators are bad all at once. Who are they employing as techs? I mean I am pretty much self taught when it comes to auto repair and I feel as if they'd hire me in an instant. May actually diagnose the problems better!
 
toyotarich

I have been to many dealers in my driving life (57 yrs.). I KNOW the Toyota dealer thought he saw a rube with a 2001 4Runner and, using a standard practice of running up a big tab (he also found an additional $3000 worth of work (?)), he thought he could sell me a NEW Toyota. Unfortunately for him, after 12 yrs. of ownership, I know my 4Runner inside and out. I think many car dealers go to the same School of Ethics as most Washington politicians.
 
I've been going to car dealerships for over 57 years. Although there are some trustworthy dealers, my experience is that too many have gone to the same School of Ethics as most Washington politicians.
 
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