Power Steering rack producing clonk sound

[alia176]

I finally narrowed down the clonk sound coming from the front. I uploaded a short video of it and it's not as loud in the video but you can definitely hear it when sawing the wheel back n forth. https://youtu.be/ZZbvgWOEXFU

The noise is more noticeable when going over uneven terrain and you can see the noise coincide with the tie rod end not going in/out smoothly. With 320xxx miles, I have no doubt the rack needs to be replaced or rebuilt. I did notice a slight movement of the rack itself inside the bushings but that doesn't seem to be the cause of the noise. Has this happened to anyone?

There are no leaks of any kind and the boots are not wet. Just the tie rod ends are not going in/out smoothly as one would think.

So, the big question is do I rebuilt it myself or have mine rebuilt? I don't have the $700 to purchase a brand new OEM unit even though I know that's the best thing to do.

A typical rebuild kit consist mainly of seals from what it looks like Powercraft Rack Pinion Seal Kit 8944: Advance Auto Parts

The FSM does a nice job of showing a rack rebuild from what I saw. Looks like NAPA has rebuilt units from $250-$380 or so.

All new UCA, LCA bushings
New Sway bar end links
New sway bar bushings
New BJs lower
New wheel bearings
New CV shafts

 

[AuSeeker]

I finally narrowed down the clonk sound coming from the front. I uploaded a short video of it and it's not as loud in the video but you can definitely hear it when sawing the wheel back n forth. https://youtu.be/ZZbvgWOEXFU

The noise is more noticeable when going over uneven terrain and you can see the noise coincide with the tie rod end not going in/out smoothly. With 320xxx miles, I have no doubt the rack needs to be replaced or rebuilt. I did notice a slight movement of the rack itself inside the bushings but that doesn't seem to be the cause of the noise. Has this happened to anyone?

There are no leaks of any kind and the boots are not wet. Just the tie rod ends are not going in/out smoothly as one would think.

So, the big question is do I rebuilt it myself or have mine rebuilt? I don't have the $700 to purchase a brand new OEM unit even though I know that's the best thing to do.

A typical rebuild kit consist mainly of seals from what it looks like Powercraft Rack Pinion Seal Kit 8944: Advance Auto Parts

The FSM does a nice job of showing a rack rebuild from what I saw. Looks like NAPA has rebuilt units from $250-$380 or so.

All new UCA, LCA bushings
New Sway bar end links
New sway bar bushings
New BJs lower
New wheel bearings
New CV shafts

My 2 cents is buy a rebuilt unit, the seal kit will not fix the "... tie rod ends are not going in/out smoothly..."IMHO, to me it's sounds like you have some wear in the teeth of the rack, so I would think you need more than just seals, and that's not to mention if you have no leaking from the unit the seals aren't bad anyway.

 

[alia176]

My 2 cents is buy a rebuilt unit, the seal kit will not fix the "... tie rod ends are not going in/out smoothly..."IMHO, to me it's sounds like you have some wear in the teeth of the rack, so I would think you need more than just seals, and that's not to mention if you have no leaking from the unit the seals aren't bad anyway.

Yeah, I agree with that as well. CVJ has our racks for $340 + $225 core and a lifetime warranty. This seems to be the avg price locally as well but I'd rather go with CVJ as they seem to have good feedbacks on their racks as well as their CVs.

Thanks for the input.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I would would either get one of the following:

-New Toyota Steering Rack (lots of $)
-New ReMan Toyota Steering Rack (Somewhat cheaper than new)
-ReMan CVJ (Good company, haven't heard a lot of bad things about them
-New/ReMan Denso Rack (not sure who would sell the Denso brand ones)

I wouldn't go with anything other than the above, I've seen too many Autozone and & NAPA units leak after only a year or two to feel comfortable with "OEM" units. Though CVJ has a good reputation and they seem to know what's up.

 

[alia176]

I would would either get one of the following:

-New Toyota Steering Rack (lots of $)
-New ReMan Toyota Steering Rack (Somewhat cheaper than new)
-ReMan CVJ (Good company, haven't heard a lot of bad things about them
-New/ReMan Denso Rack (not sure who would sell the Denso brand ones)

I wouldn't go with anything other than the above, I've seen too many Autozone and & NAPA units leak after only a year or two to feel comfortable with "OEM" units. Though CVJ has a good reputation and they seem to know what's up.

I agree with your thoughts, skip the Chinese POS. Do you know if it's possible to purchase individual components from OEM? I've never taken one apart before but if the damaged/worn parts can be replaced, I'd like an attempt at repairing it if possible. This would be a good learning experience while saving money.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[gm350reratliff]

I would probably go with the reman rack from CVJ. Other than that, I would go with a new rack from Toyota. Although, it would be fun to tear down the rack and see exactly what's going on inside there. I also have a clunk going on but only over certain bumps in town, it doesn't do it over all of them or even ones that you would think could produce the noise. I have some front end stuff I need to replace when I have a chance but I wonder if my 4runner is making the same noise as yours. I do know that the steering isn't as tight as it used to be but there are no leaks either.

 

[alia176]

I would probably go with the reman rack from CVJ. Other than that, I would go with a new rack from Toyota. Although, it would be fun to tear down the rack and see exactly what's going on inside there. I also have a clunk going on but only over certain bumps in town, it doesn't do it over all of them or even ones that you would think could produce the noise. I have some front end stuff I need to replace when I have a chance but I wonder if my 4runner is making the same noise as yours. I do know that the steering isn't as tight as it used to be but there are no leaks either.

See if you can replicate the noise that I show on the video. Driving w/o the front sway bar is a for sure to isolate the rack from the end links.

 

[ecally]

Could it be that one of the bolts that holds the rack in place has loosened up?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[alia176]

Could it be that one of the bolts that holds the rack in place has loosened up?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wish it was that easy but no! The actual tie rod ends are moving not smoothly by placing your hand on them while someone turns the wheel.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[gm350reratliff]

If I have time this weekend I'll pull the sway bar and see if I can replicate the sound. Maybe I will mount my GoPro under there and see if anything is moving.

 

[alia176]

I have a gopro that I should be using for this type of thing but always forget!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I agree with your thoughts, skip the Chinese POS. Do you know if it's possible to purchase individual components from OEM? I've never taken one apart before but if the damaged/worn parts can be replaced, I'd like an attempt at repairing it if possible. This would be a good learning experience while saving money.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I looked into rebuilding my steering rack way back when, the FSM calls for about a half dozen SST (Special Service Tools), half of which I don't recall seeing in our toolbox at the dealer. It's honestly something that requires more specialized tools and work than would probably be worth vs. investing in one of the above options.

 

[alia176]

I looked into rebuilding my steering rack way back when, the FSM calls for about a half dozen SST (Special Service Tools), half of which I don't recall seeing in our toolbox at the dealer. It's honestly something that requires more specialized tools and work than would probably be worth vs. investing in one of the above options.

I agree, this is a complicated process with specialized tools.
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

I was wondering about steering rack changeability between my 2003 4Runner V8 and a 2012 FJC. The part #s are slightly different as shown below but what else should I be aware of? My V8 probably weighs slightly more than a FJC V6 engine so is my rack have a different ratio than the FCJ rack do you think? The FCJ in question has 40k miles and local to me. He did a SAS so I was thinking about picking it up.

Rack part #s:

2003 4runner V8 sport - 44200-35061
2012 FJC - 44200-35103

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I agree, this is a complicated process with specialized tools.

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

I was wondering about steering rack changeability between my 2003 4Runner V8 and a 2012 FJC. The part #s are slightly different as shown below but what else should I be aware of? My V8 probably weighs slightly more than a FJC V6 engine so is my rack have a different ratio than the FCJ rack do you think? The FCJ in question has 40k miles and local to me. He did a SAS so I was thinking about picking it up.

Rack part #s:

2003 4runner V8 sport - 44200-35061
2012 FJC - 44200-35103

The racks are slightly different if I recall, but they may bolt up just the same. But FJs have a wider turning radius than a 4Runner (my friend's FJ turns wider than my 4th gen for some reason), I never did figure out why.

 

[alia176]

The racks are slightly different if I recall, but they may bolt up just the same. But FJs have a wider turning radius than a 4Runner (my friend's FJ turns wider than my 4th gen for some reason), I never did figure out why.

Good info, thanks. I wonder if the mounting solution is different too.

 

[AuSeeker]

Good info, thanks. I wonder if the mounting solution is different too.

One way to find out, first do some accurate measuring and go from there, if possible set the FJ rack on the ground and check both units as best you can, if it looks good then try to swap them and then test operation.

 

[alia176]

One way to find out, first do some accurate measuring and go from there, if possible set the FJ rack on the ground and check both units as best you can, if it looks good then try to swap them and then test operation.

No need to search any further as the two racks are mounted differently. Not compatible.