Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen)

Holy ...!! Ok then I'm not at that point (yet).

Common problem is (it happened when I brake a lot) when I'm at really low speed, like just before stopping, the rear passenger brake suddently brake one shot. and most of the time, I need to give a decent amount of gas to get out where I am.
So when it happens on the street, it's ok I can handle it, but when I'm 4 wheeling and let's say I'm on the top of a hill and need to go down, it is not really fun cauz as I said, I need to put a decent amount of gas to release the brake. You can imagine it's not very nice! And it's a 5speed, so clutch + gas + brake almost at the same time...
 
so this was for his 1997 4runner, how different are the parts for the 1995? I don't want to order the wrong parts because of something as silly as a couple years difference.
 
reviving an old thread!!

do you think rebuilding the rear axle (entire seals and bearings) is recommended for a t4r w/ 210k miles with previously little or no off-roading?

I don't have any leaks but I wonder if this if this is a preventative measure like the dreadful strawberry milkshake or the LBJs.

I want to know where I have to put this on my list of to-dos. (i love my list of to-dos for my t4r btw) haha
 
I'll let the more experienced here be the deciders, but I say why mess with it if it is working fine. You could possess one of the 1% that never fail during the life of the vehicle.
 
reviving an old thread!!

do you think rebuilding the rear axle (entire seals and bearings) is recommended for a t4r w/ 210k miles with previously little or no off-roading?

I don't have any leaks but I wonder if this if this is a preventative measure like the dreadful strawberry milkshake or the LBJs.

I want to know where I have to put this on my list of to-dos. (i love my list of to-dos for my t4r btw) haha

If you see them leaking, do it. If they aren't leaking.... guess what?

They aren't leaking.
 
reviving an old thread!!

do you think rebuilding the rear axle (entire seals and bearings) is recommended for a t4r w/ 210k miles with previously little or no off-roading?

I don't have any leaks but I wonder if this if this is a preventative measure like the dreadful strawberry milkshake or the LBJs.

I want to know where I have to put this on my list of to-dos. (i love my list of to-dos for my t4r btw) haha

Leave it be till it leaks. A little diff fluid on your wheels isn't going to kill the truck to get it apart and repaired when (IF) they do leak.
 
reviving an old thread!!

do you think rebuilding the rear axle (entire seals and bearings) is recommended for a t4r w/ 210k miles with previously little or no off-roading?

I don't have any leaks but I wonder if this if this is a preventative measure like the dreadful strawberry milkshake or the LBJs.

I want to know where I have to put this on my list of to-dos. (i love my list of to-dos for my t4r btw) haha

As others have said "If it aint broke......"

If you notice, both things you gave as examples have catastrophic consequences if left unmaintained. The worst that will happen is your rear brakes will get ruined but that aint no big deal. You'll still stop.
 
Does anyone know the 4-bolt flange pattern/ dimensions for the end of axle? I am wanting to make a tool for pressing.
 
Just found out both of my rear axle seals went. Took it to a mechanic and he said my front rotors and pads also need replaced. He said both of the rear axle seals are so bad that ill need everything replaced on both rears. Bearings, seals, brakes etc... It will cost around $1,000 for everything.

Seeing that the original post costed the owner around $600 to DIY - It looks like I may have a good deal here - And if I am getting new front end rotors and pads as well.

I may just have them do it.. Or Id like to just sell the vehicle and get another.

hmmmm.
 
I recently changed new front rotors and pads. Easy job. I think it was ~$108 in parts from Autozone with an online 15% off coupon. I went with their more expensive, longer lasting stuff.

As far as the rear. I changed the rear seals about 3 months ago. is a lot of bolt off/bolt on work. Hardest thing was getting the seal in properly, which became much easier when I used a socket the right diameter to slowly knock it in evenly. Easy job, just took a while to get to.

As far as replacing the rear brakes, there are several resources online and youtube videos. I'll be replacing rear brake hardware next. It seems easy also for the DIY person with the right tools. I'm familiar with drum brakes.

The hardest thing will be the axle bearings. You could have a machine shop press them on for you for about $20-30. I've done that before.

Save yourself about $600-700 by doing it yourself.
 
I recently changed new front rotors and pads. Easy job. I think it was ~$108 in parts from Autozone with an online 15% off coupon. I went with their more expensive, longer lasting stuff.

As far as the rear. I changed the rear seals about 3 months ago. is a lot of bolt off/bolt on work. Hardest thing was getting the seal in properly, which became much easier when I used a socket the right diameter to slowly knock it in evenly. Easy job, just took a while to get to.

As far as replacing the rear brakes, there are several resources online and youtube videos. I'll be replacing rear brake hardware next. It seems easy also for the DIY person with the right tools. I'm familiar with drum brakes.

The hardest thing will be the axle bearings. You could have a machine shop press them on for you for about $20-30. I've done that before.

Save yourself about $600-700 by doing it yourself.



Yeah I think I am on my way to DIY.. I am on the website Camelbacktoyota.com and here is my shopping cart for front rotors and pads, rear shoes and drums and everything the OP listed for the rear axle seal job.... Am I missing anything hear for all of that? I noticed for the rotors it has in description "w/o 16" wheels" and "w/16" wheels", what does this mean??


Total is $760.75 for everything.. including brakes all around. Not sure if I am ready to tackle this thing yet or not!
 

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Just an FYI if this hasn't been posted prior. BFAD's amended parts # list for 2000-2002 4Runners.

inner seal - 90310-50006
bearing - 90363-40068
ABS rotor - 43517-35010
bearing retainer x2 - 42423-20010
outer seal - 90313-54001
snap ring - 90520-36045
O-ring - 90301-88077

Hope this helps.


UPDATED - After seeing this I now added the correct Bearings on the list and O-ring that was wrong prior...
 

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No idea, but I would just buy the kit for my year if I were you to avoid doing something twice or having vehicle down waiting for parts :/
 
Does anyone know the 4-bolt flange pattern/ dimensions for the end of axle? I am wanting to make a tool for pressing.
The four bolt pattern is 89mm center to center and 125mm diagonal center to center. The stud holes would need to be 11mm and the hole through the center would need to be 75mm.
 
the day has come.

Saw this while I was looking at something yesterday. Passenger side axle.

:roadkill:
 

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If you're lucky, the leak has only gotten into the carrier bearing area and not ruined your brakes. Usually the leak isn't noticed until there's oil all over the inside of one or both tires (and thereby, all over the inside of the drums).

The wheel flange is designed such that a small leak should be channeled through the dust seal and inside the sheet-metal shield piece where wheel rotation can centrifuge the oil out the hole in the outside of the axle flange (between two lug nuts). This is why there is a rubber gasket between the metal shield and the axle flange (sandwiched by the pressed-in wheel studs). The paper gasket seals between the axle flange and the corresponding holes in the drum to keep the oil traveling out safely past the brakes... But that almost never happens. The hole gets clogged or the rubber gasket leaks and gear oil almost always just leaks all over the brakes.
 
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Completed this same job yesterday! Thanks for the confidence builder. This thread made the job so much easier!
 

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