Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen)
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
This is what I ordered to do my rear axle seals and bearings.... Haven't started yet but I have done it on first gens and its basically the same.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/rear-axle-parts/rear-axle-service-kit-1979-99
Do not order this kit. The seal is not Toyota, it is a generic seal. The other stuff looks ok and the Nachi bearing is OEM to Toyota as my original is also Nachi but it's like 30 dollars on other sites part #6308-2NSE for the 99 and below years. Your better off with toyotapartsdeal.com. I ordered the wrong year and could never get a hold of them on the phone or email. I need to return the 99 and under bearings and outer seal and inner seal. I just used the spacer and retaining ring. Do yourself a favor and avoid them. If you do order them for 2001 and 2002 then you need that years kit. It's actually cheaper on Toyota sites but you may get killed on shipping, average of 30 dollars but you are getting OEM stuff for sure and no guessing game. The bearing on 2001 and 2002 have a protruding lip on the inner race.
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Chim
New member
Do not order this kit. The seal is not Toyota, it is a generic seal. The other stuff looks ok and the Nachi bearing is OEM to Toyota as my original is also Nachi but it's like 30 dollars on other sites part #6308-2NSE for the 99 and below years. Your better off with toyotapartsdeal.com. I ordered the wrong year and could never get a hold of them on the phone or email. I need to return the 99 and under bearings and outer seal and inner seal. I just used the spacer and retaining ring. Do yourself a favor and avoid them. If you do order them for 2001 and 2002 then you need that years kit. It's actually cheaper on Toyota sites but you may get killed on shipping, average of 30 dollars but you are getting OEM stuff for sure and no guessing game. The bearing on 2001 and 2002 have a protruding lip on the inner race.
I installed this kit on my 99 without any issues and Marlin Crawler wouldn't sell it if it was junk.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
I have a 99 and an 00 and they both have the same bearing which doesn't have that extended inner race. Looking at the parts breakdown online it looks like the 01 and 02 use a different part #, which could be the issue.
Chim
New member
Sounds like a good idea for someone who is going to do this job to maybe call a dealership and find out which style they have according to their VIN just in case.
I was responding to boulder saying to avoid Marlin Crawler based on the fact that he ordered the wrong parts. Nothing in the kit is questionable unless of course it doesn't fit your application
hwell:Sounds like a good idea for someone who is going to do this job to maybe call a dealership and find out which style they have according to their VIN just in case.
I was responding to boulder saying to avoid Marlin Crawler based on the fact that he ordered the wrong parts. Nothing in the kit is questionable unless of course it doesn't fit your application
I'm saying I did not get the Toyota inner seal but a generic seal. If you don't want no doubts then go with Toyota. I will be sending things back because I did not get a Toyota inner seal and I ordered the wrong year part and never got an email back if I did so. They now just email me as they were closed down due to wheeling at the con but it's now to late as I had to go to Toyota to buy the 2002 bearings. Regardless they didn't give me the OEM seal, was yours the original Toyota seal that's the new updated one. The bearing for the 2002 is 90363-40068 with the flange. Regardless this kit is less on Toyotapartsdeal.com $178+shipping Shopping Cart)) vs marlin crawler $198+shipping https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/rear-axle-parts/rear-axle-service-kit-2000-04.
FYI, Also the retaining ring on my 2002 does not have that sharp of an angle and is more wider then the new one I got from marlin crawler which is the same also compared it to a OEM one and it's of the same width across, much shorter then the 2002 retainer, at least 2mm wider. I ended up reversing the install of the retaining ring as it would have rode so close to the edge of the angle.
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I didn't say it was junk but everybody sells junk sometimes. Company's now days are into profit not killer reputation. This kit says stock axle seal, pretty much stock Toyota everything except the outer boot seal, axle seal was not stock, some generic axle seal I got so either they didn't have the seal and sent me the part regardless of what I thought or they are selling these with misleading information. What I got was I'm guessing stock everything else besides the axle seal. I compared everything to the OEM stuff at the dealer and I couldn't tell a difference. The only thing different was the axle seal as it was all rubber coated and not metal at all. I also had to wait a extra week as they were backordered so they must have just threw my pieces together. I don't know their reputation but I lived in Fresno for over 20yrs and loved it when I lived there and can vouch for all things Fresno, go bulldogs.
Thank you so much!
Just want to say thank you, this post was a life saver, I am learning how to keep up my 4runner and this has been a problem i have been having for a while. Glad to have found a group of people who can help me keep my beast going. she is at 200k and i plan to keep it going long after 400k
Just want to say thank you, this post was a life saver, I am learning how to keep up my 4runner and this has been a problem i have been having for a while. Glad to have found a group of people who can help me keep my beast going. she is at 200k and i plan to keep it going long after 400k
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cbr900boy
New member
When it's time I'm thinking about doing everything myself with this tool. What do you guys think? One guy over at Tacomworld actually used it. Check it out. The tool only costs $136. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/proper-way-to-press-in-new-rear-wheel-bearing.274582/page-2
AXLE BEARING PULLER TOYOTA
AXLE BEARING PULLER TOYOTA
Blk96Limited
New member
5 Star write up for sure, I
just did this on my 96 and this write up was a life saver, make sure you take your axles to someone who is familiar with Toyota's/ is a competent machinist.
The person I had press my stuff together didn't take any measurements before hand and pressed the abs ring and inner retainer on way too far and the axle didn't seal at all.
I had to buy a new abs ring and take it all apart again :/ so just something to look out for
just did this on my 96 and this write up was a life saver, make sure you take your axles to someone who is familiar with Toyota's/ is a competent machinist.
The person I had press my stuff together didn't take any measurements before hand and pressed the abs ring and inner retainer on way too far and the axle didn't seal at all.
I had to buy a new abs ring and take it all apart again :/ so just something to look out for
bugman-74
New member
Thought I'd share my version of the special service tool. If you can weld, save yourself some $$ and build it yourself. If you do it right, one tool can disassemble and re-assemble everything and even save the collars and ABS reluctor rings. I cant take credit for the bearing splitter idea - saw it somewhere else. I also ended up beefing up the cross-bars (not shown in the pics), but otherwise this design works perfect with a 20T HF press and a set of HF bearing splitters.
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bugman-74
New member
Here's the disassembly process.
Not shown: The seal on the backing plate can be removed by hand or with a seal puller. The bearing itself can be gently tapped out of the backing plate fairly easily.
Not shown: The seal on the backing plate can be removed by hand or with a seal puller. The bearing itself can be gently tapped out of the backing plate fairly easily.
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bugman-74
New member
Also: If you are doing the bearings/seals, now is the time to replace the "brake drum oil deflector gasket." PN 42443-55020. They are cheap, and mine were saturated in gear oil. You will have to yank the studs, but that is NBD. Think of the gasket like an oil slinger in an engine - except its a cardboard material that helps retain (small amounts) of oil that gets past the seal from getting into the brakes.
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Does anyone Know if all Locker axles use the same bearings and seals? According to another post in this thread there's a difference between 96-99 and 00-02 bearings etc.
I need to do my axle seals and figured this would be a good time to install my locker axle, problem is I have a '00 truck and a (97?) 3rd and housing. I will need to reuse my '00 axles. Which seals should I get?
I need to do my axle seals and figured this would be a good time to install my locker axle, problem is I have a '00 truck and a (97?) 3rd and housing. I will need to reuse my '00 axles. Which seals should I get?
bugman-74
New member
(I should've mentioned earlier: MEASURE your ABS reluctor ring location and inner collar location prior to removal.)
Here's the re-assembly process:
I forgot to take a pic of the rear axle seal itself, but they are easy to install. I just used a HF seal driver set, and drove them into the axle (don't forget to grease/lube it).
The bearing presses into the backing plate easily. The outer seal can be installed by hand. You will see a few bearing/axle press adapters used in my pics - these are just out of my HF wheel bearing adapter set.
Then the axle shaft gets pressed into the bearing. I supported the assembly from my special axle tool (updated design pictured). Basically the square tube is the right size to interface and support the inner race on the bearing, but still allow the axle shaft to pass thru. I opted to lube the steel press fit surfaces lightly with WD40 to make everything go easier. Obviously you want to grease/oil the seals. Also keep an eye on the splined end of the axle shaft - mine got pretty close to the press/floor while pressing parts together.
Then a collar can be pressed on in the same fashion (I reused my old collars, since I was able to remove them intact). The outer collar retains the bearing and the inner collar is the sealing surface - therefore I used the old inner collar at the outer location, and vice versa for the inner collar. This way the fresh collar (no seal wear grooves) is now used for sealing. A new retaining clip is used to retain the outer collar against the bearing.
Now the ABS reluctor ring can go back on. I re-used the old ones, since I was able to remove it intact. On my rig, it was located .700" from the inner edge of the machined surface on the axle (see pic).
Now the inner collar can be pressed on. Note that it does not get pressed flush to the ABS reluctor ring. The tapered edge NORMALLY faces inboard, however after I took a few measurements it was clear to me that it would be very difficult to ensure the seal lip rides in the appropriate area on the collar. I took the advice of [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] and flipped the inner collar around backwards (tapered edge facing outboard). On my rig, the collars ended up at .150" from the from the inner edge of the machined surface on the axle (see pic).
I re-installed the studs, generously applied grease to the collar and installed the assembly to the rear axle and spun it a few times. This gave me a good pattern that shows where the seal lip is riding on the collar (see pic showing the seal lip is positioned near the center of the collar via the grease marks).
With the "grease test" looking good, I re-installed everything for keeps. Don't be alarmed when you notice the ABS ring does not appear centered with respect to the ABS sensor hole - it is not supposed to be. Don't forget to re-fill the rear axle with gear oil. Now would also be a good time to extend the rear axle breather (and verify that it is not clogged).
So far so good. No obvious leaks, and no ABS light. I will be periodically pulling the ABS sensors and checking for gear oil on the ABS reluctor ring just to verify everything is good.
Here's the re-assembly process:
I forgot to take a pic of the rear axle seal itself, but they are easy to install. I just used a HF seal driver set, and drove them into the axle (don't forget to grease/lube it).
The bearing presses into the backing plate easily. The outer seal can be installed by hand. You will see a few bearing/axle press adapters used in my pics - these are just out of my HF wheel bearing adapter set.
Then the axle shaft gets pressed into the bearing. I supported the assembly from my special axle tool (updated design pictured). Basically the square tube is the right size to interface and support the inner race on the bearing, but still allow the axle shaft to pass thru. I opted to lube the steel press fit surfaces lightly with WD40 to make everything go easier. Obviously you want to grease/oil the seals. Also keep an eye on the splined end of the axle shaft - mine got pretty close to the press/floor while pressing parts together.
Then a collar can be pressed on in the same fashion (I reused my old collars, since I was able to remove them intact). The outer collar retains the bearing and the inner collar is the sealing surface - therefore I used the old inner collar at the outer location, and vice versa for the inner collar. This way the fresh collar (no seal wear grooves) is now used for sealing. A new retaining clip is used to retain the outer collar against the bearing.
Now the ABS reluctor ring can go back on. I re-used the old ones, since I was able to remove it intact. On my rig, it was located .700" from the inner edge of the machined surface on the axle (see pic).
Now the inner collar can be pressed on. Note that it does not get pressed flush to the ABS reluctor ring. The tapered edge NORMALLY faces inboard, however after I took a few measurements it was clear to me that it would be very difficult to ensure the seal lip rides in the appropriate area on the collar. I took the advice of [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] and flipped the inner collar around backwards (tapered edge facing outboard). On my rig, the collars ended up at .150" from the from the inner edge of the machined surface on the axle (see pic).
I re-installed the studs, generously applied grease to the collar and installed the assembly to the rear axle and spun it a few times. This gave me a good pattern that shows where the seal lip is riding on the collar (see pic showing the seal lip is positioned near the center of the collar via the grease marks).
With the "grease test" looking good, I re-installed everything for keeps. Don't be alarmed when you notice the ABS ring does not appear centered with respect to the ABS sensor hole - it is not supposed to be. Don't forget to re-fill the rear axle with gear oil. Now would also be a good time to extend the rear axle breather (and verify that it is not clogged).
So far so good. No obvious leaks, and no ABS light. I will be periodically pulling the ABS sensors and checking for gear oil on the ABS reluctor ring just to verify everything is good.
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adkinsadam1
New member
Quick question: Is this a repair that can wait? I discovered it today... it was just greasy around the rear drum brake. It was only evident when I took the brake apart. I have to drive to Maine and back in the next 2 weeks and don't have time to deal with it until then. My differential fluid was still nice and full. What do you think? And I good to do my road trip and then worry about this? I have noticed no issues braking. 2000 4runner. Thanks!
