Yes. But measure from the bearing edge on the hub side, not from the polished edge of the axle. Before, the sealing retainer was 37mm from the bearing, now it's 39mm.
Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen)
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
Yes. But measure from the bearing edge on the hub side, not from the polished edge of the axle. Before, the sealing retainer was 37mm from the bearing, now it's 39mm.
Another interesting note. Both old axle bearings had alot more play compared to the new bearings I installed. The truck has 340,000kms on these original bearings so not surprising.
I took apart the old bearings to see how they look. On the side with the leaking seal, you could see that the grease has almost been completely flushed out by the gear oil! If you have clean, clear gear oil in the diff, it will still come out grey because it's mixing with the black bearing grease. This is a good reason why the bearings should be replaced.
Not that I recommend this, but technically if you notice your bearings have little play (feels like new), or if you installed them recently but messed up the axle seal, you don't have to replace the bearings each time. The grease seal on the bearing easily pops out so you can just flush out the old stuff with some brake clean + alcohol and just repack them with grease while still on the axle.
I took apart the old bearings to see how they look. On the side with the leaking seal, you could see that the grease has almost been completely flushed out by the gear oil! If you have clean, clear gear oil in the diff, it will still come out grey because it's mixing with the black bearing grease. This is a good reason why the bearings should be replaced.
Not that I recommend this, but technically if you notice your bearings have little play (feels like new), or if you installed them recently but messed up the axle seal, you don't have to replace the bearings each time. The grease seal on the bearing easily pops out so you can just flush out the old stuff with some brake clean + alcohol and just repack them with grease while still on the axle.
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whereiswill
New member
I wouldn't recommend it either, the grease inside them is not standard wheel bearing grease according to the Naichi spec sheet.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Sunfire3rdGen
New member
Took the dealership 3 times to first it. (Knocks on wood)
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
RTV everywhere!
Guess what happens when the shop doesn't measure the position of the ABS ring before they reassemble?
At least it let me discover big gouges on the shafts from a previous replacement. Hopefully they'll fix it on Tuesday.
Man, what an absolute cluster F^%k. Are the gouges under the retainer ring, which is why they put the RTV around the retainer? If they are deep the only right way to fix it is to replace the axle. But if you can't do that, use some hardening sealant. Put it in the groove(s) right before pressing the retainer into position.
Wow what a mess! Shop should definitely replace that axle. A gouge like that on the axle is a weak spot that might fail at the worst possible time.
The axle assembly can be disassembled using a bearing splitter attached to the axle tool such that the two retainers and ABS ring can be reused. IMO, it's bad advice in the FSM recommending the retainer to be cut off. The cost of the bearing splitter is cheaper than that of new ABS rings, and you minimize the risk of damaging the axle from the cutter.
The axle assembly can be disassembled using a bearing splitter attached to the axle tool such that the two retainers and ABS ring can be reused. IMO, it's bad advice in the FSM recommending the retainer to be cut off. The cost of the bearing splitter is cheaper than that of new ABS rings, and you minimize the risk of damaging the axle from the cutter.
RS Dude
Member
RTV everywhere!
Guess what happens when the shop doesn't measure the position of the ABS ring before they reassemble?
At least it let me discover big gouges on the shafts from a previous replacement. Hopefully they'll fix it on Tuesday.
The bearing retainer that goes after the bearing and before the ABS ring is missing!
frodiesel
New member
Tackling this project today.
Started at 9am at Toyota dealer with axles removed, and new parts in hand....kalamazoo dealer doesnt have the tool-sent me to machine shop
10am find out machine shop sends its work across town fml
11am: talk in person to machine shop about doing the work. They have seen it before, and plan to cut off retainer and abs ring, no biggy i have that stuff in the parts bag. Then he tells me it will be DAYS before he can get to it, hes the only one in the shop....
right now i have $560 into dealer priced parts. Also 20$ for a shop to diagnose it was the rear and not the front bearings. Fyi: my company tax id number get me wholesale parts and no taxes. If its not close to what dallas toyota quotes i will be returning parts to my local dealer to save $$
Have NOT paid the machine shop yet. I slid a ten dollar bill in his pocket, said i know youre just one man but everyone needs a free lunch. Hope he can sort me out in a day or two.
He also agreed to flipping the inner (seal ridding) retainer. Thx Drcoffee
Wish i could borrow that tool that people make, or the time to fab it, and source the metal. I have a hf 20t press, welder, experience and confidence, just no time for mistakes!!
Started at 9am at Toyota dealer with axles removed, and new parts in hand....kalamazoo dealer doesnt have the tool-sent me to machine shop
10am find out machine shop sends its work across town fml
11am: talk in person to machine shop about doing the work. They have seen it before, and plan to cut off retainer and abs ring, no biggy i have that stuff in the parts bag. Then he tells me it will be DAYS before he can get to it, hes the only one in the shop....
right now i have $560 into dealer priced parts. Also 20$ for a shop to diagnose it was the rear and not the front bearings. Fyi: my company tax id number get me wholesale parts and no taxes. If its not close to what dallas toyota quotes i will be returning parts to my local dealer to save $$
Have NOT paid the machine shop yet. I slid a ten dollar bill in his pocket, said i know youre just one man but everyone needs a free lunch. Hope he can sort me out in a day or two.
He also agreed to flipping the inner (seal ridding) retainer. Thx Drcoffee
Wish i could borrow that tool that people make, or the time to fab it, and source the metal. I have a hf 20t press, welder, experience and confidence, just no time for mistakes!!
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frodiesel
New member
Update:went back to machine shop after i brought home a terribly gouged axle shaft with everything messed up. Must have used a cut off wheel then kept going into my axle. Not sure how it could seal....
One on the bearings wasnt pressed in all the way to the housing, no biggy, but the retainers and tone ring were smashed right up against everything. He says only way is to cut off tone rings with cutoff wheel....
So f---ed. Axles are only 572 a piece. Paid the shop 205 in labor to f me.
Spoke with a manager who told me to come back at five
One on the bearings wasnt pressed in all the way to the housing, no biggy, but the retainers and tone ring were smashed right up against everything. He says only way is to cut off tone rings with cutoff wheel....
So f---ed. Axles are only 572 a piece. Paid the shop 205 in labor to f me.
Spoke with a manager who told me to come back at five
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Yikes that sucks on the last 2 attempts posted on here. I ended up bringing a printed out photo to my machine shop to do my install. They take it as an insult but as we know, very precise. I even drew out the measurements... Oh well.
Luckily for me I had a spare rear axle housing I was building so I loaded in into the truck and tested fitted at machine shop w grease. They appreciate tthe owners pain now when it goes wrong on parts install.
Luckily for me I had a spare rear axle housing I was building so I loaded in into the truck and tested fitted at machine shop w grease. They appreciate tthe owners pain now when it goes wrong on parts install.
frodiesel
New member
I should have taken a few minutes and drew a picture, or even taken a picture of the shafts the oem setup.
Tonight i cleaned up the epoxy or jb weld whatever they used in the gouges on the shafts.
Replaced diff. vent w oem, old was not clogged but likely original.
Remove old seals (ending in "01") from housing. Reinstall pass axle seal "06" utilizing electrical tape rolls and hammer.
Note: the one bearing not even pressed into housing. Good grief.
I thought to use some red loctitie on the inner retainer so that it will seal after being pressed and before new diff fluid is added.
What do you think:
Red loctitie Or rtv?
Tonight i cleaned up the epoxy or jb weld whatever they used in the gouges on the shafts.
Replaced diff. vent w oem, old was not clogged but likely original.
Remove old seals (ending in "01") from housing. Reinstall pass axle seal "06" utilizing electrical tape rolls and hammer.
Note: the one bearing not even pressed into housing. Good grief.
I thought to use some red loctitie on the inner retainer so that it will seal after being pressed and before new diff fluid is added.
What do you think:
Red loctitie Or rtv?
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I should have taken a few minutes and drew a picture, or even taken a picture of the shafts the oem setup.
Tonight i cleaned up the epoxy or jb weld whatever they used in the gouges on the shafts.
Replaced diff. vent w oem, old was not clogged but likely original.
Remove old seals (ending in "01") from housing. Reinstall pass axle seal "06" utilizing electrical tape rolls and hammer.
Note: the one bearing not even pressed into housing. Good grief.
I thought to use some red loctitie on the inner retainer so that it will seal after being pressed and before new diff fluid is added.
What do you think:
Red loctitie Or rtv?
It doesn't call for either but if you are going to use it, red locktite is the way to go. Does not need any oxygen to cure. I used it recently on an oil seal in the supercharger and worked perfectly (had some hairline scratches that oil would eventually find its way through).
JBurt
Senior Member
The bearing on mine wasn't a really tight fit in the backing plate. When you bolt it up to the axle housing it should tighten up.
I put a little red high temp rtv in the inside of my inner retainer because it was there before so I figured why not?
I'll finishing my install right now so if you want to wait a few hours I'll let you know how it goes.
I put a little red high temp rtv in the inside of my inner retainer because it was there before so I figured why not?
I'll finishing my install right now so if you want to wait a few hours I'll let you know how it goes.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Guess what I get to do again... this time it's the passenger's side.
Chuckles89
New member
Does anyone have any experience with Timken or Koyo rear wheel bearings? I'm thinking about getting them for mine.
