Either should be fine. Timken is just reboxed Naichi bearings.
Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen)
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
Either should be fine. Timken is just reboxed Naichi bearings.
And reboxed OEM bearing.
Trust me when I said the tool to remove the bearing takes about 3O min to fab up !!!
cbr900boy
New member
Interestingly when I did my 01 the OEM bearings were Nachi, I'm about to do my 98 and the OEM bearings are Koyo, and yes the designs are definitely different.
Ststephen7
New member
Philadelphia axle shop?
I know this is old, and my '98 needs at least one side bearing/seal replacement (rear driver side). Can anyone recommend a shop around Philly to do the pressing work? I am pretty sure (thanks to these great write ups) that I can get it apart and back together again... and I'd like to get the pressing done by someone who knows what they are doing.
I live in just north of the city...
Thank you so much!!
Steve
I know this is old, and my '98 needs at least one side bearing/seal replacement (rear driver side). Can anyone recommend a shop around Philly to do the pressing work? I am pretty sure (thanks to these great write ups) that I can get it apart and back together again... and I'd like to get the pressing done by someone who knows what they are doing.
I live in just north of the city...
Thank you so much!!
Steve
98Fizzy
New member
Confused in the Bronx..
So here I am, in the Bronx and any work I do on Fizzy would need to be done on the street.
Had him jacked up and on stands and pulled all hardware off to pull axles because of diff fluid leaking.
It seems pass side seal was replaced with some all black oil seal and it failed.. not sure if it's all rubber or part rubber and plastic but it just popped/slid out it claw on back of hammer. Put new seal with new design in.. didn't mess with retainers or bearings.. didn't notice any play on it really but seal on bearing looked like it was bubbling in a couple spots. Will replace soon.
Driver side.. whole new story! The backing plate rocks on the bearing and pushes in and out on it too. Is this a bearing issue or is the backing plate that holds the bearing shot somehow?
https://youtu.be/ocdqQzQ7rIE
https://youtu.be/6z4AeRSQC3U
So here I am, in the Bronx and any work I do on Fizzy would need to be done on the street.
Had him jacked up and on stands and pulled all hardware off to pull axles because of diff fluid leaking.
It seems pass side seal was replaced with some all black oil seal and it failed.. not sure if it's all rubber or part rubber and plastic but it just popped/slid out it claw on back of hammer. Put new seal with new design in.. didn't mess with retainers or bearings.. didn't notice any play on it really but seal on bearing looked like it was bubbling in a couple spots. Will replace soon.
Driver side.. whole new story! The backing plate rocks on the bearing and pushes in and out on it too. Is this a bearing issue or is the backing plate that holds the bearing shot somehow?
https://youtu.be/ocdqQzQ7rIE
https://youtu.be/6z4AeRSQC3U
JBurt
Senior Member
When I did mine the backing plate wobbled even after they put in new bearings. It was not a super tight fit and it all got snugged up when the backing plate was bolted back to the axle. Not sure if that's how it's supposed to be but that's what the guy at the shop told me and it's not leaking after a few months and a few thousand miles.
JBurt
Senior Member
I don't think so, but if I were you I'd wait for more comments from other people. I'm no expert on the subject.
98Fizzy
New member
Thanks brother. Much appreciated. Will wait for more input on this as I don't see the actual bearing having play.. just the backing plate loose on it. Just doesn't seem right and I've been seeing other vid's showing play and saying it needs bearings. Just don't know if they had play in the bearing itself or the backing loose.
gtrgngstr
New member
hey great thread/tutorial! so far it has been a perfect guideline for exactly what I'm going through. I have a 97 4runner and my rear driverside axle seals are shot as well as wheel bearings. I do have one question that you didnt post as part of your experience, how much did it cost you for the 1.5 hours at the machine shop to get your parts pressed off on and new parts pressed on? this would be very helpful for me to know since I am on somewhat of a budget and trying to plan this whole process accordingly. thanks
Scramble
New member
Hopefully I got lucky. Sat. I was under the truck (oil change & re-torquing oil pan & rear diff bolts) & there were no leaks. I took it for a drive around the lake (30min) & parked it over night. Sun. I was putting my gas tank skid back on & noticed a little bit of gear oil in the rear PS wheel. Not sprayed all over like previous pics here. Next Sat. I'm doing the Breather Extension & hopefully the leak stops. I just changed to Red Line Synth oil so that could be a factor as well. This sucks because I haven't wheeled it all summer & now I have 3 wheelin' trips planned for Oct. I'm not driving it at all this week.
thegipper
New member
I inspected my axle seals through the abs sensor port a couple months ago. A week before I did the inspection, I did the extended breather mod after I changed the rear diff fluid. My old breather was completely plugged.
When I checked for oil, both sides had a very small amount of old dark gear oil coating every 4th of 5th tooth of the abs gear. I also stuck my inspection camera in there and found about 1/16" of oil in the bottom of the housing. I cleaned all out the best I could.
A couple weeks later I inspected it again and didn't see any new clean fluid in there. I'm assuming the new breather fixed the tiny amount of oil that was seeping by when it was under pressure. I will keep monitoring it every month or so to make sure it never gets worse. I also used some cheap ass gear oil and not synthetic for this very reason.
Everyone, i mean everyone, should do the breather mod!
Scramble
New member
Agreed, this should be talked about more often on here.
It should be right up there with Ball Joints & Trans Coolers.
This is an expensive repair if I have to do bearings & such a cheap mod as preventive maintenance.
Jhelms
New member
Hrm... Has anyone ever just left the hub bolted to the axle housing and used a slide hammer attached to the axle shaft? If done this way, one can basically pull the axle through the bearing and at the same time, slide the ABS and seal rings right off. Pressing the parts back on is cake.
It takes an insane amount of force to separate the components, like a >20 ton press. I've seen (Youtube) people use the banging the shaft on the concrete method but that seems sketchy. I really don't think a slide hammer would be able to put out that kind of force.
You also need to remove the first retainer to access the circlip which holds the rest of the components.
Jhelms
New member
Understood - I have a 20T press but not sure how much pressure it actually takes or how tight they are actually pressed on. Guys that have pressed them off should know how they felt in a press... did you have to put a lot of pressure on each ring / did they come off with a bang or just slid off?
I have seen photos of a guy that was able to slide the ABS ring with a prybar so... this has me thinking. I have used a large slide hammer to remove pressed in bearings before so was not sure if this could be accomplished this way or if anyone had tried it.
Guess I will be in for some experimentation as my 02 started leaking yesterday :heh:
Chuckles89
New member
That is a great idea, I wish I thought of that.
The press fit is not tight at all. I don't have a gauge on my 12T press, but it was definitely not stressing it in any way.
