Replaced JBL Sub/Added Amp: Install Pics/Info
- Thread starter ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
- Start date
Pioneer Sub Direct Replacement Amazing Bass
Thanks for the inspiration ARK_SWAMP_RIDER, I replaced the stock sub with a Pioneer (TS-SW2002D2), no cutting required, slipped a Cobalt 3002 Amplifier under the passenger and dissected a universal bass control to fit into one of the blank center console buttons. It took all day yesterday to complete as I didn't want to "half-ass" anything, and so all wires and aftermarket equipment are hidden. I'm not sure how it'd sound without sound dampening material, but I didn't chance it as you may see in the following pictures. Sorry for taking only 3 pictures, nothing was left loose...
Thanks for the inspiration ARK_SWAMP_RIDER, I replaced the stock sub with a Pioneer (TS-SW2002D2), no cutting required, slipped a Cobalt 3002 Amplifier under the passenger and dissected a universal bass control to fit into one of the blank center console buttons. It took all day yesterday to complete as I didn't want to "half-ass" anything, and so all wires and aftermarket equipment are hidden. I'm not sure how it'd sound without sound dampening material, but I didn't chance it as you may see in the following pictures. Sorry for taking only 3 pictures, nothing was left loose...
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LTDSC
New member
What is that ugly wire coming out of the console? You say you didnt want to half ass anything but whats that about?
It's my iPod cable that integrates with the stock JBL head unit. That was a completely different, half-assed project, but thanks for reminding me about making it covert...
Flyhighdp
New member
Greetings Ark_Swamp.. I've been doing much research on the 4th Gen Jbl Oem sub replacement as mine is also blown, however after removing all plastics and inspecting, i didn't notice anything visible to the sub at all to cause such a Terrible sound.. oh well.. I am on to adding a new one. I like to simply replace with oem, but looks pricy and poor quality.
I have been following your write up for almost 24hrs now, and I believe I've decided to go the same jl route you did + amp. This if for my gf ride. would you strongly suggest even for just a swap to add in the amp instead of replacing oem with RF/Kicker,etc?
1.When splicing the amp into the rear speaker to simulate "RCA" do you have any pics describing that process?
2.how did you wire your sub from the amp?
Thank you for your help. I am looking for a clean sound that is not from the days of 2 12" in a ported box, but that of a professional studio.ha.cheapest route. I to have wired several cars and am mainly wondering about how to tap the amp into the rear without a line output converter. Thanks again!
I have been following your write up for almost 24hrs now, and I believe I've decided to go the same jl route you did + amp. This if for my gf ride. would you strongly suggest even for just a swap to add in the amp instead of replacing oem with RF/Kicker,etc?
1.When splicing the amp into the rear speaker to simulate "RCA" do you have any pics describing that process?
2.how did you wire your sub from the amp?
Thank you for your help. I am looking for a clean sound that is not from the days of 2 12" in a ported box, but that of a professional studio.ha.cheapest route. I to have wired several cars and am mainly wondering about how to tap the amp into the rear without a line output converter. Thanks again!
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
I can answer a few of these questions for you, I actually have the LOC that you need for sale, it has to use an amped signal. That is where you do the splicing, into the LOC inputs.(Let me know if you're interested in the LOC, it's brand new never used.)
Some people have swapped just the sub for a newer sub and had decent results, however if you're looking for "studio" performance, you definitely are going to want to add the amp. As for wiring the sub from the amp, I bridged my 2 channels on the sub into the monoblock amp.
You can see the 2 sets of twisted wire pairs ready to go into the amp.
Flyhighdp
New member
Thanks 97BlackAckCL..I can answer a few of these questions for you, I actually have the LOC that you need for sale, it has to use an amped signal. That is where you do the splicing, into the LOC inputs.(Let me know if you're interested in the LOC, it's brand new never used.)
Some people have swapped just the sub for a newer sub and had decent results, however if you're looking for "studio" performance, you definitely are going to want to add the amp. As for wiring the sub from the amp, I bridged my 2 channels on the sub into the monoblock amp.
You can see the 2 sets of twisted wire pairs ready to go into the amp.
How much are you asking for the LOC? brand/model?.. and do you have any pics of you splicing into the wires for the converter?
Darwalk
New member
Why not bump this thread back to the top.....
Just finished installing a Kicker Comp D sub in to the stock box. I decided to take an old pillow and sacrifice its guts to stuff the box prior to re-install. I then installed an Alpine MRP-M500 amp under the passenger seat. It sounds phenominal, but I have to turn the amp down a bit to keep up with the stock JBL amp. I plan on getting a 4 channel class D compact amp in the next few months to get the speakers off of the JBL for good. I pre-ran RCAs to the back and will be able to tap the JBL harness for everything, no need to run new power lines to the amp. So far so good, thanks everyone for posting! Couldn't have made it easier....
Just finished installing a Kicker Comp D sub in to the stock box. I decided to take an old pillow and sacrifice its guts to stuff the box prior to re-install. I then installed an Alpine MRP-M500 amp under the passenger seat. It sounds phenominal, but I have to turn the amp down a bit to keep up with the stock JBL amp. I plan on getting a 4 channel class D compact amp in the next few months to get the speakers off of the JBL for good. I pre-ran RCAs to the back and will be able to tap the JBL harness for everything, no need to run new power lines to the amp. So far so good, thanks everyone for posting! Couldn't have made it easier....
LTDSC
New member
Speakers and the amp are ran off the JBL amp. I have the JBL amp powering my speakers and a separate amp powering my sub.
Smokedspoon
New member
Its WORTH IT!
Did the same 8" JL Audio Sub in stock encasement with powered sub. Sounds amazing! Just as good as my old 10" kicker in external box.
Did the same 8" JL Audio Sub in stock encasement with powered sub. Sounds amazing! Just as good as my old 10" kicker in external box.
Tokylon
New member
Hi msa4033,
I have a 2005 sr5 without the jbl system (no amp just a cover and empty storage area) and am wanting to put an enclosure in there with amp/sub. Do you still have the enclosure and what are you asking?
Thank you,
Todd
[MENTION=44866]ARK_SWAMP_RIDER[/MENTION]
i am looking at hooking up aftermarket amp for an 8" polk sub w/ line level inputs. so that i fully undestand, you joined the two positive outputs from the JBL amp and hooked them up to the single positive line level input and joined the two negative outputs from the JBL amp and hooked them up to the single negative line level input to the aftermarket amp?
this will not overload or mess up the amp at all?
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[MENTION=87687]LTDSC[/MENTION] , see my question above.
when you hooked up your aftermarket sub amp, did you just take both + wires from the JBL amp and hook them up to the single line + input to your amp and both - wires from the JBL amp to the single line - input to the amp.
not sure if this will mess up the amp or not and i am wanting to install everything this weekend. thanks.
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LTDSC
New member
I only have my amp for the sub. Not for the speakers. I think you're referring to having an aftermarket amp for the speakers. Correct?
i am looking at keeping the OEM JBL amp for the speakers and using a separate aftermarket amp for a single 8" polk MM sub i had laying around.
basically not sure if i just use one single OEM + and - wire for the aftermarket amp line level inputs or if i join both OEM outputs into the one single line level input of the amp
basically not sure if i just use one single OEM + and - wire for the aftermarket amp line level inputs or if i join both OEM outputs into the one single line level input of the amp
