*Review* Alpharex Pro headlights

Now on a PC it still looks like the cut off is bad upfront and close with the Alpharex. maybe because they put a type of surround from the projectors?
1st pic is yours, 2nd is my old XB and for comparsion I put up the stock H11. In the stock H11 follow the crack center the road, coming towards the runner and shifts to the left. Cant barley see it with the XB. My pics were taken at the same spot within inches of each other. I'll need to wait for more photos. If someone could post before and after shots taken from the exact same spot, camera planted front / center of the steering wheel that would be awesome, thanks
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Hey, I got a pic after final aiming. It took a few weeks but I got them at the perfect height now and the HIDs have broken in more. Here's a pic front and center.

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So I removed my headlights to see how I insert them in because I wanted to make sure the "rod" was facing down on the bulb.

Turns out they weren't. I was at about a 10 o clock position with the tab and the rod was at 4.

I fixed it so I was at 12 o clock and the rod was now at 6 o clock.

Remounted the lights and now my passenger side had a wacky beam pattern!

I messed around with it a bit and 10 o clock gave me the best pattern on the passenger's side and 12 o clock on the driver's side.

I guess these cheap Amazon HID bulbs may not be on a perfect plane so you have to pick the right spot for them.

I would try to reclock before you return.


So after trying different clocking orientations here is the best cut off line I could get (LED fog lights are disconnected). Also, I did swap out the the Innovited 55W 5000K HID I originally installed to the Innovited 35W 6000K HIDs. With these, here is I how clocked them, tab @ 3o’clock and rod at 9o’clock on both driver and passenger low beam projectors. Cut off line is not as clean as yours, but I guess I can live with it. The wall and pavement I’m parked at is not level, so the wall’s line does look slanted.
 

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So after trying different clocking orientations here is the best cut off line I could get (LED fog lights are disconnected). Also, I did swap out the the Innovited 55W 5000K HID I originally installed to the Innovited 35W 6000K HIDs. With these, here is I how clocked them, tab @ 3o’clock and rod at 9o’clock on both driver and passenger low beam projectors. Cut off line is not as clean as yours, but I guess I can live with it. The wall and pavement I’m parked at is not level, so the wall’s line does look slanted.

Yeah that looks way better. I'd be happy with that cutoff. I'm going to swap my 55 watt out to 35 too. I was reading and they say 55 watt only lasts 1000 hours and 35 last 3000. This will be the sixth time i remove the bumper. Pro bumper removal status.
 
Yeah that looks way better. I'd be happy with that cutoff. I'm going to swap my 55 watt out to 35 too. I was reading and they say 55 watt only lasts 1000 hours and 35 last 3000. This will be the sixth time i remove the bumper. Pro bumper removal status.

Yeah the same reason I went to 35W also. I think I’m around that sixth number also. I just hope I don’t reach Legendary status. Even gave me a reason to buy a Milwaukee cordless 3/8 ratchet just for the job.
 
Love my pro lights. Really only takes 10 minutes to pull it. 30 mins first time for me since the 2020 has 2 extra bolts you gotta unscrew under the hood latch for the safety sense I didn't see. Would most likely buy novas in future if they have good beam pattern

Do the pro headlights have a sequential turn signal like the Nova series does?
 
27 Apr 20 Update:

I'm going to be opening up these lights to put a foreground limiter in.

The foreground lighting is way too intense and distracting with HIDs.
 
For the life of me I cannot figure out the drl’s. Wired correctly, but my high beams still act as the drl.
Also, when the drls are powered, they never shut off. Thoughts?
 
For the life of me I cannot figure out the drl’s. Wired correctly, but my high beams still act as the drl.
Also, when the drls are powered, they never shut off. [emoji52] Thoughts?


I have the Luxx's so not exactly the same but similar. High beams will still be DRL unless you clip the wire that supplies the lower voltage on the wiring harness from the vehicle. Not sure why they did that. Seems like it could have been powering the new DRL strip instead. As for the Alpharex DRL, you have a fuse tap on the INJ fuse?
 
Yeah. The add a fuse is in (ign). Maybe I was hoping they would work from the light stalk to turn on and off.
Which is the low voltage to the vehicle?
 
I have the Luxx's so not exactly the same but similar. High beams will still be DRL unless you clip the wire that supplies the lower voltage on the wiring harness from the vehicle. Not sure why they did that. Seems like it could have been powering the new DRL strip instead. As for the Alpharex DRL, you have a fuse tap on the INJ fuse?

Just to be clear, does "clip" mean "snip" or "cut"? That's irritating, if so. I really don't want to have to cut wiring harnesses, etc. to be able to install stuff that should basically be plug-and-play.
 
Yeah. The add a fuse is in (ign). Maybe I was hoping they would work from the light stalk to turn on and off.
Which is the low voltage to the vehicle?


Yeah they aren't going to do that. Again, if Alpharex had tapped the DRL wire for the new DRLs then you would be able to.
 
Just to be clear, does "clip" mean "snip" or "cut"? That's irritating, if so. I really don't want to have to cut wiring harnesses, etc. to be able to install stuff that should basically be plug-and-play.


Yep. Alpharex doesn't mention doing that but I ran across it in another thread.

Come to think of it, someone who is more handy with electronics could probably wire up something that works correctly. If you could get a male and female versions of the highbeam/DRL harnesses, you could probably pass the highbeam and ground wires through and take the DRL signal and add a capacitor (I think that's what is used to keep LEDs from flickering at pulsing voltages) that then runs to the DRL positive wire.

I do agree though that it is annoying to not be truly plug and play.
 

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