Rock Rat's Imperial Jade Mica "Next Adventure" Build

Mine is leaking exactly where the grommet is and since that was last area I worked I'm hoping that's where it's from. I'll find out tomorrow. I hear you on the maintenance. I'm actually caught up finally except the SC but I'm back and forth on that now before a big trip to Flagstaff and Utah. So tempting but my practical side says don't risk it just in case...If I do, I might just put the original pulley back on without any fuel mods. Still thinking...

You're pretty brave doing your own windshield. No way for me. I'd bring it to Safelite and let them handle it. I have some yard work to do but I think I have some time to begin working on your LCA's tomorrow. You want me to cut and press the bushings out before I ship them? I have the sawzawl with the diablo blade and that's half the battle.

The only reason I'm doing the windshield myself is because I'm sure there's rust under there I'll need to repair. Otherwise I'd let Safelite do it.

I wouldn't do the SC before your trip. You'll be to far from home if there's any issues. After you do the SC I'd just drive it to work & back for a few days to make sure everything is good.

Yea, you can cut them out if you dont mind. Like I said, I dont want to put you out, we all have enough to do in own trucks & personal lives. I have enough to do before I get to the front end again.
Besides my windshield leaking, my rear diff is leaking from the gasket. I tightened up the nuts but it didn't help. In a way it's good because it's forcing me to swap in my e-locker axle instead of me putting it off for a year! LOL
So the LCA's & spindles have moved down on the to do list. Windshield, new axle & S\C in that order plus 10 other things not as important! LOL (but I'm still taking them off your hands, no worries)
 
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Guaranteed it's leaking through the wire loom. You'll see. Pull the carpet back a little spray water on the wire and watch it. Just like my video. Then feel areouns the wire inside the truck with ur fingers. Around the one with the wire loom

So Mike should be fingering the moist hole in his truck?
That's 4Runner love! :bigok:
 
Leaking grommet solution in firewall

OK so I spent about an hour repairing my leak. Had it all done before breakfast. A couple things first.

  1. BAD decision to use braided wire loom inside the engine bay where it's going to be exposed to the elements or potentially enter your rig.
  2. Awesome forum to help me get back in line. [MENTION=99565]kolelt[/MENTION] - bravo
  3. I love my fuse box mount. It took three bolts and one zip tie to re-locate it out of the way. Freaking awesome since this was the first time I had to move it. It passed the test.

OK so my leak is repaired now. I opted to go with a 1" diameter x 4 foot piece of sealed heat shrink tubing.

  1. I made my harness long enough to give me different options in the engine bay so all I did is disconnect the Deutsch connector and pull some extra through the firewall.
  2. Slid the heat shrink tubing over the assembly ensuring my negative wire for my switches and my alternate power lead were exposed.
  3. Once complete, I pulled the harness back through the firewall, finished off the top half of the harness with a another piece of heat shrink and fusion tape.
  4. Finally, I used some "All-Purpose Adhesive Caulk-in-One" around the grommet. (It's what I had laying around the house - may replace later on if it doesn't hold up)

Thanks to [MENTION=99565]kolelt[/MENTION] for his timely input to my initial post! I Owe you! :hatsoff:
 

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Good job bud. Glad I could help. I know how annoying it is to find water in your truck lol. Glad it all worked out :)
 
OK so I spent about an hour repairing my leak. Had it all done before breakfast. A couple things first.

  1. BAD decision to use braided wire loom inside the engine bay where it's going to be exposed to the elements or potentially enter your rig.


  1. Yeah. Braided loom looks great in a computer case but I wouldn't use it for automotive. I use split loom and even then I try to keep the split facing up. So if water does hit it the overlap from the split acts like the shingles on your roof. I've seen guys get water in split loom by facing the overlap down.

    I ended up using a daystar firewall grommet to run all my wires into the cab. I have two 6gauge feeding some subs and didn't have the room to squeeze everything through the factory loom. Plus as you found out, if you go through the factory loom you can get some water penetration. Check out the link to the daystar. I zip tied all the wires at the grommet then ran a piece of split loom over the grommet and zip tied that. I would take a picture but that damn charcoal can is in the way. lol


    Daystar Firewall Grommet
 
Yeah. Braided loom looks great in a computer case but I wouldn't use it for automotive. I use split loom and even then I try to keep the split facing up. So if water does hit it the overlap from the split acts like the shingles on your roof. I've seen guys get water in split loom by facing the overlap down.

I ended up using a daystar firewall grommet to run all my wires into the cab. I have two 6gauge feeding some subs and didn't have the room to squeeze everything through the factory loom. Plus as you found out, if you go through the factory loom you can get some water penetration. Check out the link to the daystar. I zip tied all the wires at the grommet then ran a piece of split loom over the grommet and zip tied that. I would take a picture but that damn charcoal can is in the way. lol

Sorry about the ole charcoal canisters. Grrrrr. I have a Daystar grommet sitting on my work bench when I do decide to run some 4gauge through the firewall for the Inverter and an Amp. I wouldn't attempt to run it through the factory grommet. I think I have that one maxed out.

Great insight on the split loom. I'm actually going to take a look at all of mine right now and ensure the split is facing down. Awesome insight. Funny how those little seemingly insignificant things can come back and bite us in the @ss sometimes.
 
Sorry about the ole charcoal canisters. Grrrrr. I have a Daystar grommet sitting on my work bench when I do decide to run some 4gauge through the firewall for the Inverter and an Amp. I wouldn't attempt to run it through the factory grommet. I think I have that one maxed out.

Great insight on the split loom. I'm actually going to take a look at all of mine right now and ensure the split is facing down. Awesome insight. Funny how those little seemingly insignificant things can come back and bite us in the @ss sometimes.

I'm actually setting up my amps right now. Got the test tones and multi-meter ready to go. I really wish I knew someone in my town with an oscilloscope but I don't. So I usually do the multi-meter to get close than finish by ear. I ended up getting new speakers front and rear. I still have a 4 channel amp sitting in my cart to replace my old 2 channel. I haven't pulled the trigger on that yet because Ohms law is telling me the my old 2 channel will have plenty of power to feed all the new speakers if I run them in parallel. Still it's nice to have more headroom. The subs fed off it's own monoblock. I got that with the plans on adding another sub eventually so it's got headroom for days.

Since I have it all pulled apart for the sound deadening I should actually take some photo's this time. lol
 
i have 5: 12g wires and 2: 4g wires running thorugh my stock grommet. Its basically done. No more. If your auto, then you can use the hole where the clutch pedal would go. Since im swapped lol. I cannot use that hole.
 
Here's my original link to my "Supercharger Installation - Happening Soon". This post was from more than a year ago and I actually had the SC back in 2015.

Needless to say, it was low on my priority list. I wanted to make sure that my platform was ready for the additional HP. Over the year I've replaced, as well as re-enforced my spindles with gussets, upper and lower control arms, tie rod ends, axles, LBJ's etc. Replaced all my bushings and mostly OEM parts where it counts.

The engine is solid and running high compression numbers in all six cylinders.

Here's what I did in preparation for and the Installation
  • Yes, I did swap gears for the ECGS 4.88's
  • I installed TRD headers and TRD cat back with two magna flow cats. I wanted to open up the exhaust.
  • Installed IK 22 plugs
  • Installed the 170° Thermostat

Here's what I decided NOT to do for the Initial Installation
  • Did not install my new 325cc fuel injectors
  • Did not install my EVO fuel pump
  • Did not install my AEM F/I C
  • Did Not install my Boomslang
  • Opted against the 2.2 Pulley. Went with stock 2.37 first.

Yea, so there's a huge chunk of change sitting in my cabinet waiting to see how well a 357K mile 4Runner can handle a stock SC without any upgrades. I may sell the above if interested. Not sure if I want the additional boost. Do your research first and then make me an offer.

Running a solid 14.5 to 14.7 AFR most of the time. Once in a while it would jump into the 17's and drop into the 13's. Running 92 octane.

TRD SC Installation

Most of items I need to install my TRD SC have arrived. Engine still runs strong. Compression is solid and undercarriage looks good. As recommended by @MTD I will tune according to the pyramid setup with my equalized injectors and stock fuel pump first.

Because I never plan on doing holeshots with a 4x4 I will delay the IPT transmission upgrade for a while. I still might pick up 4.88 gears from ECGS. Undecided.

  • Picked up the SC locally here in Portland for $700 YES
  • Replaced the nose cone - PN#PTR29-35042 - Cost:$228 YES
  • Decided on the AEM F/IC-6 Controller - PN# 30-1910 Cost: $364.61 NO
  • Boomslang Harness - PN# BF12106 AEM F/IC Cost: $379 NO
  • Denso ID22 Cooler plugs - Cost: $47.95 YES
  • Stant 170° T-Stat - PN# 14077 Cost: $11.09 YES
  • AEM 30-4900 Wideband Failsafe Gauge - Cost: $285.00 YES

Also added a AEM Boost Gauge

This is not a cheap upgrade by any means. Looking forward to getting started on this. Need some quality time in between the other repairs such as replacing my axles and upgrading my UCA's, spindles, and LCA's.

EDIT: Forgot to mention opening up the exhaust. I'm long overdue for a new exhaust system. BJ's Offroad had the DT headers for around $550 at one time. They were going to add them back to their site. I need to follow up with them tomorrow. It's hard to find them now under $700.

Well, here it is installed. PS belt was the biggest PITA! Small 10mm bolt on the back of the plenum was also a PITA. Used a left over bracket from my B&M cooler kit to fab an oil stick extension. Fabbed up a plate to cover up the back of the SC where the 7th injector would go. Took me all day to install and fab up everything. First start was sweet with a quick 0120 and an 1120 code that cleared as soon at it came on.
Supercharger_2 .jpg
 

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Looking good man!!!
Sooo.... what are your initial impressions?
I have been debating going this route and just keeping the stock pulley/ injectors so I wouldn't have to do fuel mods.
 
Here's my original link to my "Supercharger Installation - Happening Soon". This post was from more than a year ago and I actually had the SC back in 2015.....

I want to know what you honestly think of this and HOPE your driving this down to Overland EXPO. I've wanted some extra power as I keep adding weight and not really changing anything else. I don't really want to do all the other mods that I see some do, and what you did I could easily 'wrangle' my dad to assist on and keep out of pocket costs down some I feel. I'm also concerned that you only get 40 more HP, which granted is 27% over stock(roughly), which is a lot, but is it worth it...(to me ya know). So that being said grat's to get it going and going forward really need to meet up with you guys next time your out or doing a meet and greet (I'll even drive to Portland/Vancouver :P).
 
Looking good man!!!
Sooo.... what are your initial impressions?
I have been debating going this route and just keeping the stock pulley/ injectors so I wouldn't have to do fuel mods.

First impressions - WOW! I love the instant pedal response from idle. There's a noticeable difference from stock and well worth it. If you find a good deal on an SC I would say "go four it." I picked mine up two years ago locally for I think $700 when TRD was still making them. The nose cone kit was around $225. Now they've gotten ridiculous on the prices. Not sure if I would pay the $3K for one or not. But yes, first impressions - awesome. Love the instant power with the additional weight.

EDIT: Want to clarify I picked it up from someone off CL who was looking for a new compound bow and just replaced his motor which was under warranty for three years. Rather than let the SC sit in his garage for that long, he opted to sell it. The original price from TRD at the time was around $2500. After TRD announced they weren't making them anymore the prices skyrocketed.

Man, your dropping in a SC. [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] is dropping in ARB all the way around. I'm gonna have to get a second job just to keep up with you guys.:lol:

No kidding, [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] did it the smart way. I regret not choosing the locker option for the rear when I ordered my gear upgrade from ECGS. Oh well, that's on the list for another time. A second "job" is what supported my hobby and all of my upgrades. I'm a B licensed soccer coach and have been coaching HS soccer for almost 15 years. I retired the teams last year and am now coaching a boys Academy team. I'll be turning them over to another coach in May then I'm hanging up the boots. I'll do some private goal keeper training but that's about it. So, turn that hobby of yours into a second job!!

I want to know what you honestly think of this and HOPE your driving this down to Overland EXPO. I've wanted some extra power as I keep adding weight and not really changing anything else. I don't really want to do all the other mods that I see some do, and what you did I could easily 'wrangle' my dad to assist on and keep out of pocket costs down some I feel. I'm also concerned that you only get 40 more HP, which granted is 27% over stock(roughly), which is a lot, but is it worth it...(to me ya know). So that being said grat's to get it going and going forward really need to meet up with you guys next time your out or doing a meet and greet (I'll even drive to Portland/Vancouver :P).

Kotrin, it's a fantastic upgrade and I'm monitoring everything VERY closely right now. As you know I made sure all of my maintenance priorities were done FIRST to include opening up the exhaust and a complete suspension upgrade, to include the gussets. If I was to build a TRUE outback style "overlander" an SC would not be on the list. I'm now a slave to premium fuel. If and only IF you find a good deal on one I say pick it up. There's a huge noticeable difference and it adds that extra "umph" that you're looking for. Is it worth 3K, I'm not sure about that. The gears helped me tremendously and now of course, the combination of the entire TRD exhaust system, headers included, the 4.88's and the SC - The rig is amazing. Not to worry, I'm still heading to the Overland Expo next month but there's a chance I might make it your way before we leave. If we have another meet and greet up here, I'll let you know. Better yet, join the PDX Overlanders FB group.
 
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Just wanted to say nice job on your build! I think I've narrowed down what I really want to this particular 4R, '01 sport IJM. I'm not sure how long it will take me to actually find one since I have locked myself down pretty far but hopefully there is one out there for me. Beautiful truck, I think it is awesome you bought it new and still have it to this day!
 
The install looks fantastic! You got that thing for a steal at $700. I'd definitely buy one at that price, but I'm not sure if I would install it or sell it off for a profit and do something else with the money. I'd love to have the supercharger, but I don't know if I want to be a slave to premium fuel like you said. The price gaps have gotten huge the last few years. 50 cents seems to be low, and it's not uncommon for me to see 70 cents or higher. That adds up quick!
 
You have been very busy since I swung through here last! The wiring you did is amazing, very well thought out and clean. Truck is looking great!
 
Just wanted to say nice job on your build! I think I've narrowed down what I really want to this particular 4R, '01 sport IJM. I'm not sure how long it will take me to actually find one since I have locked myself down pretty far but hopefully there is one out there for me. Beautiful truck, I think it is awesome you bought it new and still have it to this day!

Thanks! I love it and as you know I take pretty good care of it. It was not my original plan to keep it forever, but after seeing how bullet proof they are and losing count on the number of vehicles I've owned and "wish I kept" I decided to keep this one. Hold out for a good "rust-free" 01 IJM and you won't have any regrets. I look forward to seeing your build.

The install looks fantastic! You got that thing for a steal at $700. I'd definitely buy one at that price, but I'm not sure if I would install it or sell it off for a profit and do something else with the money. I'd love to have the supercharger, but I don't know if I want to be a slave to premium fuel like you said. The price gaps have gotten huge the last few years. 50 cents seems to be low, and it's not uncommon for me to see 70 cents or higher. That adds up quick!

Thanks Unner! The SC definitely has it's limitations when it comes to being a true Overland rig. I'm not sure how I would fair travelling through any 3rd world countries or trying to do the entire coast of of South America or even Baja Mexico for that matter. High octane fuels are not available in MANY countries. I'm OK, not happy, but OK with the cost. It's something I can live with. BTW - I'll never see WOT or even half of what this SC can do for me. Not my style. I look forward to seeing your platform build. I think I may just go with four Frontrunner Wolf Packs for this upcoming trip.

You have been very busy since I swung through here last! The wiring you did is amazing, very well thought out and clean. Truck is looking great!
Thanks! I always love looking at your build and picking up some great ideas. Your second build is just as good as your first build if not better! Very meticulous. I love your idea of offering varying styles to your wiring mounts. They're pretty awesome!
 
Hold out for a good "rust-free" 01 IJM and you won't have any regrets. I look forward to seeing your build.

That's the real trick it seems... There is an 01 IJM starring me in the face half a day's drive from me but it's originally a NY truck and I just know it's going to have frame rust and probably a lot of unseen rust as well. How much rust is 'allowable' on these? Naturally we would prefer a true 'no rust' vehicle but I'm not sure how realistic that is at this point? It's eating me up knowing it's there but I am holding out for a better one...
 
That's the real trick it seems... There is an 01 IJM starring me in the face half a day's drive from me but it's originally a NY truck and I just know it's going to have frame rust and probably a lot of unseen rust as well. How much rust is 'allowable' on these? Naturally we would prefer a true 'no rust' vehicle but I'm not sure how realistic that is at this point? It's eating me up knowing it's there but I am holding out for a better one...

Unfortunately, I'm not the guy to ask "how much rust is too much?" Those of us who live in the PNW are extremely lucky to not have to deal with salting the roads and the problems of rust. Use the google search up top and plug in variations of rust, IE: too much rust, frame rust, is this too much rust, etc. There's ALWAYS someone from the midwestern and eastern states starting threads on the subject. You need to look west for a true rust-free rig but they're ridiculously expensive out here. In Portland, basic SR5's start at $7000 with 225K miles.
 

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