Salvage and rust clean up

[dogtail]

Scramble that is an excellent job!
I know you are right about it taking months so I'm starting with getting the big stuff off. Changing my game to one section at a time. it will keep my mind off going to buy a nice blue 05 I found along with a couple of other 3rd gen and an older Pathfinder (whose underbelly is in better shape than mine). friggin working dog brain - always keep it busy or trouble happens. :tea:

Someone last night mentioned a Soda Blaster so I will check that out again at HF.

for the internal of the frame, no power washer so a jet spray from a hose should work to see what's in there or not I hope.

When I go to do the inside coating is that just a hand pump with a long hose/tube with a 360 spray nozzle? I watched the fluid film youtube application but don't really want to buy that whole kit unless I need to.

has anyone ever done or heard of Rust Defence on their truck/car? there's a place here that either sells or applies it.

For painting after good prep, I like Chassis Saver by Monstaliner, can brush it on, so nice when doing work in sections and can get on top of frame and in tight areas. Comes in black (frame) and grey (body belly).
Whatever you don't have time for painting this coming salt season, just spray RP over rust and get to the rest when you have time. Main thing is stop any more rust from eating away.
Monstaliner do-it-yourself roll-on truck bed liner

 

[Scramble]

Scramble that is an excellent job!
I know you are right about it taking months so I'm starting with getting the big stuff off. Changing my game to one section at a time. it will keep my mind off going to buy a nice blue 05 I found along with a couple of other 3rd gen and an older Pathfinder (whose underbelly is in better shape than mine). friggin working dog brain - always keep it busy or trouble happens. :tea:

Someone last night mentioned a Soda Blaster so I will check that out again at HF.

for the internal of the frame, no power washer so a jet spray from a hose should work to see what's in there or not I hope.

When I go to do the inside coating is that just a hand pump with a long hose/tube with a 360 spray nozzle? I watched the fluid film youtube application but don't really want to buy that whole kit unless I need to.

has anyone ever done or heard of Rust Defence on their truck/car? there's a place here that either sells or applies it.

Thank you! It's a labor of love!

It's def easier to sell it & buy a rust free truck. I dont have that option because of my emotional attachment to her.
When my power washer pump failed I used one of those fancy hose attachments. It was ok for getting out loose dirt but not really strong enough for the big rust flakes coming off the inside of the frame.
Mud & salt stains are hard to get off the undercarriage so I'd get a power washer, it will also reduce your cleaning time by a lot. Get a Generac 3500 off CL for $200. They're $600 new & the only problem I've had with it since 2012 is the pump failing because I left water in it over the winter & it cracked. Bought a good pump for it for $75 (dont buy a cheap $30 pump) & it runs like a champ. It can run all day, I do the whole exterior of my house & my 900sqft deck with ease.

After you totally clean out the inside of the frame spray Eastwoods internal frame coating. The cans come with the 360* tube & nozzle.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

I used blue painters tape to cover up all of the holes in the frame as to not waste the paint. It's not cheap & wanted to keep all of the overspray inside the frame. Some guys have done the whole frame with 3 cans. I think 2 coats is better so plan on 6. Plus I used the 360* nozzel to get into hard to reach areas on the cross members, inside the rear upper & lower control arm mounts on the axle housing & the frame. The paint comes out thick & fast so be ready to pull the hose through the frame at a medium pace. Too fast & you dont get full coverage, too slow & you'll run out of paint.

I wouldn't use fluid film on a rusty vehicle. It's hard to wash off if you plan on painting in the future. I would use it on a non rusty vehicle to prevent rust.

I plan on getting a sand blaster after my garage is restored but not sure how well it would work in this situation. You'd probably need a full coverage face mask & respirator working in close quarters like that.

 

[Scramble]

Scramble - here it is blown up. This is actually the worst places on the truck. besides the skid plate under the gas tank - you can kinda see in the pic. I'm trying to get that off so I can steel it and paint it up too.

Damn that's crusty! That metal is thin on the back of the diff when new. Be very careful with the wire wheel on a drill. I dont see any wet spots so thats good. I'd put a rust converter on there. Coroseal or Eastwood will work. Then a rust encapsulator & top coat.

I wouldn't waste my time with the skid plate, chuck it & get a LIL Skips.

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=175800]TrexRunnerGirl[/MENTION], I mentioned the soda blaster, HF sells sand blaster there is a difference. You really don't want to use sand it gets in places you can't wash it out of then holds moisture paint won't adhere to metal rust is next, Soda can be washed out very easy. The HF blaster is a piece of garbage more headache than its worth for what your facing. Try checking in your area for someone that does blasting (soda preferably) see what that costs, then you do the prep n paint.
Your rearend is scary, paint more than likely not curing that.

 

[Busabos77]

Epic job so far! Looking good!

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

So I spent time today relaxing and rust busting. I feel a bit accomplished. Here’s a before and after of that crusty diff.
Now beer thirty and a shower.

 

[BrianK14]

With that level of rust damage to the rear end housing, your at risk of perforation and a leak. Don’t waste your time cleaning it up, just get a rust free housing and swap it in.

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

With that level of rust damage to the rear end housing, your at risk of perforation and a leak. Don’t waste your time cleaning it up, just get a rust free housing and swap it in.

I didn't think that was a possibility since these are welded unlike others where you can switch them out a bit easier.
And since it's a 99 limited it has the e-locker that everyone is so keen on - I think - correct, so not an easy task to find a replacement?

side note: I'm actually enjoying the 'alone time' with my truck cuz the kids don't want to have anything to do with the dirty work. LOL silly kids...