Someone scratched my car

Mixed4u said:
Most of the chips were down to the primer. Some were worse and some were less. All of my chips were from damage done due to normal driving down the highway and my 4Runner being hit by flying debris except for two of them which were pretty bad from rocks being kicked up on the freeway and striking the body. There were no blobs, the Langka stuff took care of that, but what I mean by not being perfect is the paint match being what I can best describe as shadowy. It's really slight but I know where I did the repairs and unless I point them out, they are not noticeable. My 4Runner is that Galactic Gray and I have to really examine the paint in order to be able to see the repairs. They are just not completely invisible. The color variance is so slight, that I don't think I could even get it to show up in a picture otherwise I would take one and post it for you so that you could see. Hope that helps.
Mixed4u, I have a couple more questions if you don't mind. First, did purchasing the whole kit from Langka seem beneficial to you, or would you have gone with only the Blob Eliminator if you did it again?

Also, I have several small chips and a thin 1/2-foot long scratch along the side of my 4Runner. Do you think the 2oz bottle would be enough?

Thanks for your help
 
NViejeP said:
I found out who did it, apparently it was supposed to be a joke, and the retard didn't know what he was doing. But hes scared crapless of me, and he said he was going to pay for it.

this seems like an easy decision to me, get a quote from a blue ribbon body shop and send it to the kid or his parents. If they bitch and whine tell them next will be a sobpena to court.

got to learn somehow :mad:
 
Okay, my friend tried t obuffer it ou with scratch-x. After a few tries, its starting to go away. Its not fully gone but its a LOT better. He says when he has time he'll do it some mroe and it should completely go away.

3 questions:

1) How muhc should I charge the kid? I'm thinking $75-$100. I'm going to give my friend like $25, causE I used his buffer a lot of his scratch-x.

2) I noticed that the part that we buffered with the scratch-x is a LOT smoother than the other parts, is this because it's clean?

3) Will the scratch come back if I wash the scratch with a car, or if it rains?
 
NViejeP said:
Okay, my friend tried t obuffer it ou with scratch-x. After a few tries, its starting to go away. Its not fully gone but its a LOT better. He says when he has time he'll do it some mroe and it should completely go away.

3 questions:

1) How muhc should I charge the kid? I'm thinking $75-$100. I'm going to give my friend like $25, causE I used his buffer a lot of his scratch-x.

2) I noticed that the part that we buffered with the scratch-x is a LOT smoother than the other parts, is this because it's clean?

3) Will the scratch come back if I wash the scratch with a car, or if it rains?

1) Ask for more, in case down the line you need to work on it again. $200+ IMO, it needs to be hard lesson, otherwise he won't learn. :D

2) Scratch-X is like a rubbing compound or polish with abrasives, you pretty much just buffed that entire area where the scratch was and smoothed out the clear.

3) It shouldn't come back. Essentially, the buffing your friend did should've removed a bit of clear to bring the rest of the clear down to scratches (valleys) making the surfaces level and smooth. (Refer to T4Runner06's pic). If you want to be sure, give your car a wash or over that area and check it out. I'd recommend waxing that area afterwards though.
 
Okay, washed it a little bit. Really quick.

At first I wasn't able to catch the scratch, but after trying harder, I was able to, but not nearly as much as last time. It definately got better. My friend is sure of being able to get it out.

For T4runner06 that got the scratches out using Scratch-X, how long did the ones deep enough to catch with your nail take to get out?

What my friend is doing is putting Scratch-X on the buffer pad, and then buffing the scratch.

Also, t4runner06, when you washed it, did the scratch come back a little bit?

Sorry for all the questions, I want to know if I should charge him now, or wait until its gone.
 
NViejeP said:
Sorry for all the questions, I want to know if I should charge him now, or wait until its gone.

wait until its gone, worst case senario, your buddy messes up and something goes wrong.

can we see some pics of what it looks like now?
 
Don't charge him until your are positive that the scratch is gone and you are positive that you are charging him the final price. If I am not mistaken, the law says that once you request money from him and he makes payment --- the issue is said to be resolved. You can't go back and say "Well --- now I need more money because I was wrong about the original price ... or what I did to it didn't work so now I need to do something more expensive." I believe you only have one chance to bill him --- so make sure you bill him correctly the first time.
 
Okay, this afternoon I'll go ahead and take pictures of the scratch again. I tried doing it in my garage, but it wouldn't show.
 
Here's an update. Used scratch-x like 6 times with hand today. Worked pretty good, barely noticable, there are some parts that are still noticable though. A few more tries and I think it will all be gone.

I've done it like 3-4 times with the buffer, and like 6 times with hand. Will that wear my clearcoat down? Do I need to re-clearcoat that spot?
 
NViejeP said:
Here's an update. Used scratch-x like 6 times with hand today. Worked pretty good, barely noticable, there are some parts that are still noticable though. A few more tries and I think it will all be gone.

I've done it like 3-4 times with the buffer, and like 6 times with hand. Will that wear my clearcoat down? Do I need to re-clearcoat that spot?

Yes, your clear is worn down a bit. That's the whole objective of compounds and polishes with abrasives. It takes away some of the clear around the scratch, so the scratch is now gone. Think of it like having mountain peaks and valleys. When you use compounds and polishes with abrasives, you're essentially removing the peaks and bringing it down and level with the valleys.

I don't have any paint or bodyshop experience, but from what I observed on Rides, Overhaulin' and American Hot Rod. I don't think it's possible to reclear just that section. The bodyshop will have to sand down all the clear on the fender and repaint the clear.
 

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