Spare CV

[Jeremy556]

Pretty sure 4th gens and 07-09 FJCs had ATRAC as well. IIRC, it was on by default and not easily defeatable, as opposed to being off by default and a button to turn it on in 5th gen.

It wouldn't surprise me in the least if Toyota strengthened the CVs in 2010 (similar to the rear diff and other small strengthening/improvements). As long as the dimensions didn't change, the aftermarket parts won't change, as they still "fit"

After comparing some part numbers between 2010 and 2009, it looks like the shafts are the same part numbers, but the CV joints are new part numbers.

 

[wfo9]

Pretty sure 4th gens and 07-09 FJCs had ATRAC as well. IIRC, it was on by default and not easily defeatable, as opposed to being off by default and a button to turn it on in 5th gen.

It wouldn't surprise me in the least if Toyota strengthened the CVs in 2010 (similar to the rear diff and other small strengthening/improvements). As long as the dimensions didn't change, the aftermarket parts won't change, as they still "fit"

After comparing some part numbers between 2010 and 2009, it looks like the shafts are the same part numbers, but the CV joints are new part numbers.

That sounds right about the joints... I'm trying to decide what to do for a spare... I don't really want to pay for a OEM at $350... yet I don't want to run cheap junk that will break. Maybe carry the cheap spare just to get off the trail and deal with getting back to full capacity after it happens.

 

[wfo9]

Pretty sure all 4th gens had something (on all the time...), but it was not near as good as the 5th gen ATRAC. Some of the trail edition 4ths had a button and it worked more like the 5ths. Also, FJs with the rear locker all had the button, but it still works a little different from my experince. The trail teams + 2010+ seem to have the same version as the 5th gens. At least that is what I have observed.

 

[Jeremy556]

That sounds right about the joints... I'm trying to decide what to do for a spare... I don't really want to pay for a OEM at $350... yet I don't want to run cheap junk that will break. Maybe carry the cheap spare just to get off the trail and deal with getting back to full capacity after it happens.

I have decided to not carry a spare, as I don't think there are any trails I run that I cannot make it out of in 2 or 3WD low, plus a winch. I do carry a spare outer TRE plus the crowsfoot and breaker bar to change it out, but am still going strong on the originals.

If I did carry a spare axle shaft, I would probably go with a cheap aftermarket in expectation of rebuilding the OE axle with OE parts after returning to civilization.

 

[TravelWest01]

That sounds right about the joints... I'm trying to decide what to do for a spare... I don't really want to pay for a OEM at $350... yet I don't want to run cheap junk that will break. Maybe carry the cheap spare just to get off the trail and deal with getting back to full capacity after it happens.

Great thread. I have front lockers and am running Rubicon trail next year, so am planning to bring a spare CV. From what I've heard, the 5th gen T4R has fairly sturdy CVs, but they will have their limits.

 

[wfo9]

Great thread. I have front lockers and am running Rubicon trail next year, so am planning to bring a spare CV. From what I've heard, the 5th gen T4R has fairly sturdy CVs, but they will have their limits.

If running Rubicon, you might want to go ahead and have a spare OE unit. It seems to eat IFS trucks for breakfast. I know a guy who took his Tacoma and boy did he take a beating. Think he broke one of everything LOL. I'm guessing he took some bad lines....

cue someone posting link to promo article of stock trail running Rubicon. :crazy:

 

[Jeremy556]

Great thread. I have front lockers and am running Rubicon trail next year, so am planning to bring a spare CV. From what I've heard, the 5th gen T4R has fairly sturdy CVs, but they will have their limits.

Bimmrunner, wfo, and I are also running front lockers, 4.56 gears, and 34" MTRs. Bimmrunner recently ran the con with no problems, I plan to make it there sometime next year.

 

[bimrunner]

If running Rubicon, you might want to go ahead and have a spare OE unit. It seems to eat IFS trucks for breakfast. I know a guy who took his Tacoma and boy did he take a beating. Think he broke one of everything LOL. I'm guessing he took some bad lines....

cue someone posting link to promo article of stock trail running Rubicon. :crazy:

My trail spares came in handy. I sold one to an FJ cruiser. Slow and steady and find the right lines. If you aren't careful, yes it could be munching come CVs and I've seen OEM CVs sheared but I've not seen it on a 5th gen since I haven't ever broken mine... Yet.

 

[TravelWest01]

Thanks for the advice, appreciated. Going mid-August next year, just ordered CBI rear bumper and their new skid plates for Gen5. Next are 34" tires. Will be part of a group, led by Tom from Badlands Off-road. He has guided trips on Rubicon for years, I'll have someone who knows the best lines to help me. Should be a great adventure!

 

[DEERUNNER]

I replaced both hubs and CV axles on the FJC about a week ago. The 4R is the same process. Used the heavy duty boot version from Advanced Auto Parts. Most of the larger chains and Rock Auto have the same or very similar replacement axles. Some claim the Cardone are better. Cheap insurance if running the tougher trails. And don't forget to add the 35mm socket to your kit. Here is another link on how one can go about it, shows the method wfo9 mentioned.

https://vimeo.com/55337954

 

[wfo9]

Thanks for the advice, appreciated. Going mid-August next year, just ordered CBI rear bumper and their new skid plates for Gen5. Next are 34" tires. Will be part of a group, led by Tom from Badlands Off-road. He has guided trips on Rubicon for years, I'll have someone who knows the best lines to help me. Should be a great adventure!

If you are guided... you are totally good. Experience with the trail makes all the difference in the world.

 

[wfo9]

I replaced both hubs and CV axles on the FJC about a week ago. The 4R is the same process. Used the heavy duty boot version from Advanced Auto Parts. Most of the larger chains and Rock Auto have the same or very similar replacement axles. Some claim the Cardone are better. Cheap insurance if running the tougher trails. And don't forget to add the 35mm socket to your kit. Here is another link on how one can go about it, shows the method wfo9 mentioned.

https://vimeo.com/55337954

Pretty good vid. I don't like the way they pulled the axle to get it to release (that is asking for trouble). I use a screwdriver and hammer on the slide hammer notches. Or you can get get or make this great tool.
FJ Cruiser Specific : CV Axle Removal Tool | Southeast Overland

 

[DEERUNNER]

Pretty good vid. I don't like the way they pulled the axle to get it to release (that is asking for trouble). I use a screwdriver and hammer on the slide hammer notches. Or you can get get or make this great tool.
FJ Cruiser Specific : CV Axle Removal Tool | Southeast Overland

I agree, I would never use a pry bare in that manner. And I tried the rope method first time I changed an axle. No luck, even with an eight pound hammer attached to it. Wasted half an hour and invented a couple new curse words. Then took a small chisel and hammer, tapped one of the notches, and the axle easily popped free. Live and learn.

 

[Jetboy]

That's what I did when I replaced my front diff.

Has anyone broken a CV on a 5th gen or 2010+ FJC, yet? Not counting boots, but actual broken OEM joint or shaft?

I don't know of anyone around running a front locker in a 5th gen. I think once we have more, we'll see more breakage. Like the fj cruisers. They're pretty small axles for a 4500lb vehicle. Especially in the rocks. Although oddly enough I've broken more axles in snow than any other place, which is where I'd least expect it. Especially once we see more extreme builds with 4:1 or dual transfer cases. Dual cases especially are really hard on the downstream parts.

On the bright side they do appear to be pretty strong, replacements are cheap (if the aftermarket ones any good), they're easy to swap on the trail, and a spare parts kit could be pretty light for both sides by having one spare axle shaft and one spare complete axle with cvs on both ends, then you could mix/match parts to fix either side.

 

[Jetboy]

FWIW - the pry bar is pretty standard. It's how you do it for just about every front wheel drive transaxle - so for a mechanic that's probably 95% of the vehicles they see.

 

[Jeremy556]

I don't know of anyone around running a front locker in a 5th gen. I think once we have more, we'll see more breakage.

I know of at least 3 in this thread, plus 3 or 4 other people.

 

[bimrunner]

Thanks for the advice, appreciated. Going mid-August next year, just ordered CBI rear bumper and their new skid plates for Gen5. Next are 34" tires. Will be part of a group, led by Tom from Badlands Off-road. He has guided trips on Rubicon for years, I'll have someone who knows the best lines to help me. Should be a great adventure!

You'll be fine as long as you are used to rock crawling and reading the lines. I assume you will take 2-3 days to run with a guide which is just about perfect to enjoy the trail. August tends to be really busy on the con so just be prepared to be patient at some points. It's a fantastic trail. One of my favorites.

 

[Jetboy]

I know of at least 3 in this thread, plus 3 or 4 other people.

Based on your location I'd think you end up in the rocks pretty often. No breakage?

It's also possible that we see more failures over time due to metal fatigue. I have a birfield I pulled out of my trail rig a few years ago with about a 1" hairline crack in the outer bell. I didn't previously think that would ever happen without a full explosion of the bell like it normally does. So it may be that we see more in the FJs due to longer term use.

 

[wfo9]

I've witnessed a few locked FJs break the CV, but it is always the joint, not the axle, although I'm sure the axles can also fail. The joint just happens to be the weak link most of the time. Might be coincidence that they changed the joint design in 2010... and I have not seen a 2010 fail yet.

Overall, I think it is a pretty strong setup as long as you use discretion withe the throttle and are aware of the steering angle when locked.

However, best to be prepared... they are a weak link overall.

 

[wfo9]

FWIW - the pry bar is pretty standard. It's how you do it for just about every front wheel drive transaxle - so for a mechanic that's probably 95% of the vehicles they see.

But that is not the type of force needed to get the snap ring to release on these. It does much better with a quick snap/jerk/tap.... and why risk damaging the seal.