SPC UCA Alignment Sheets

[fourfive]

I have come to believe that a good alignment tech is about as easy to find as a ****ing unicorn. Correction - a competent alignment tech. A good alignment tech is beyond my comprehension at this point.

Have you tried doing some of the rough adjustments yourself before taking it in? If not, doing this will make getting the alignment within spec much easier. It shouldn't have to be this way but that's the nature of the beast with alignment techs I guess. It's a mystery that I've got no good answer for. Bandit Runner did a great job outlining how to get your alignment within range so that the alignment shop is less likely to screw things up. I copied his instructions below.

Well, I finally got my alignment the way it should be. This is what I had to do:

Step 1: Set the SPC UCA's to "G" setting. This basically gives you the same amount of clearance to the firewall that you had with the OEM UCA's. Do this yourself, because the alignment shop won't have a clue.

Step 2: Maximize positive caster by adjusting all 4 LCA cams bolts.
- Both rear cams pushed outward as far as possible
- Both front cams pulled inward as far as possible
You can easily do this yourself also. Just loosen the nuts, turn the cam bolts, and re-tighten the nuts.

Step 3: Raise the front of vehicle and adjust camber, by adjusting the bolt in the slot at top of UCA. Do this yourself. The alignment shop won't want to mess around with this. It is easy to do, just takes some time. All I needed was a tape measure, level, and some trigonometry (an angle finder would have been easier, but I didn't have one). This does take some trial and error. You have to measure camber, raise the vehicle, adjust the bolt in the slot, lower the vehicle, roll it back-and-forth to let it settle, and re-measure. Repeat until you get it right. It took me 2 tries to get the passenger side right, and 4 tries for the driver side. Tighten top ball joint nut to 150 ft-lbs.

Step 4: Now bring it to the alignment shop. Have them tweak the camber if needed and set the toe. My crude setting of the camber was actually in spec, so all they had to do was set the toe.

If you perform these steps you will maximize the firewall clearance, and at the same time, get the most positive caster possible. I got 1.6 degrees caster on one side and 2.2 degrees on the other. The truck drives great like this.

 

[GaryFromMO]

You can actually tune them so you have zero rub at full lock and full stuff if using the g settings. But only get 1.5* caster.

With only having 1.5 caster is the steering real darty (touchy) at highway speeds?

I'm at 2 on caster now (d setting) and it's definitely sensitive on the highway. Both front and rear sway bars are removed though.

I just bought it and received the sway bars from the PO that I'm going to install.

It has King 2.5, SPC uca's

I was considering going to the G setting as the guy I bought it from put 295/75r16 tires on it and they rub on back side of front wheel wells.

I'm hesitant as it is my daily driver and I travel a lot on the highway.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jaysen4runner]

Oe Toyota 4runner spec suck! This is how I set mine handle and brakes alot better.

 

[JayRolla]

With only having 1.5 caster is the steering real darty (touchy) at highway speeds?

I'm at 2 on caster now (d setting) and it's definitely sensitive on the highway. Both front and rear sway bars are removed though.

I just bought it and received the sway bars from the PO that I'm going to install.

It has King 2.5, SPC uca's

I was considering going to the G setting as the guy I bought it from put 295/75r16 tires on it and they rub on back side of front wheel wells.

I'm hesitant as it is my daily driver and I travel a lot on the highway.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I had same feeling without sway bars. Get both back connected and it should feel a lot better.

 

[GaryFromMO]

I bought my 4runner with the spc on it. Is this the only info setup sheet you get with them when buying them new? Just want to make sure I am not missing any other information on setting them from spc.
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[Hopeless Diamond]

Yep, that's all the info from SPC. That's just for the UCAs and offset balljoints, not any of the other alignment settings. Your alignment guy will have to figure out the rest.

Just went through this and had to have the alignment done a second time. They didn't interpret the diagrams right and put it on the "A" setting instead of "G" as I asked. Make sure your alignment guy understands the diagram is looking straight down from above the vehicle. I think many try and visualize it as if from the side or ?

I followed the guidance here for going all in and setting them at "G". I was going for max clearance, being a weekend warrior dirt vehicle, I'm not that concerned with precise settings and roadway handling. They couldn't get camber in spec set on the passenger side, seems to maybe be a problem with the frame or LCA. It's real close though. Caster ended up 1.7/1.9. Drives OK, probably better if I hooked the swaybar up

 

[GaryFromMO]

Yep, that's all the info from SPC. That's just for the UCAs and offset balljoints, not any of the other alignment settings. Your alignment guy will have to figure out the rest.



Just went through this and had to have the alignment done a second time. They didn't interpret the diagrams right and put it on the "A" setting instead of "G" as I asked. Make sure your alignment guy understands the diagram is looking straight down from above the vehicle. I think many try and visualize it as if from the side or ?



I followed the guidance here for going all in and setting them at "G". I was going for max clearance, being a weekend warrior dirt vehicle, I'm not that concerned with precise settings and roadway handling. They couldn't get camber in spec set on the passenger side, seems to maybe be a problem with the frame or LCA. It's real close though. Caster ended up 1.7/1.9. Drives OK, probably better if I hooked the swaybar up

Ok. Thanks
Yeah I mainly drive mine on the road as a daily driver so I might go with setting F so it's not too twitchy while on the highway. I know it's a give and take with lifting a vehicle.
I also need to put my sway bars back on it po took them off but included them when I bought it.

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[BikeDestroyer]

Keeping a long running thread going. I want to thank whoever it was that suggested the G setting and the cam adjustments. I just had SPC’s installed and printed out those adjustments and gave them to the tech that was doing the work on my runner. Everything went smooth and got the alignment just right. This forum is such a wealth of information and I’ve learned a ton of information here.

 

[TonyB66]

Keeping a long running thread going. I want to thank whoever it was that suggested the G setting and the cam adjustments. I just had SPC’s installed and printed out those adjustments and gave them to the tech that was doing the work on my runner. Everything went smooth and got the alignment just right. This forum is such a wealth of information and I’ve learned a ton of information here.

Have SPCs and Kings in boxes and I saved this thread for that same reason. Good to hear!

 

[JayRolla]

Keeping a long running thread going. I want to thank whoever it was that suggested the G setting and the cam adjustments. I just had SPC’s installed and printed out those adjustments and gave them to the tech that was doing the work on my runner. Everything went smooth and got the alignment just right. This forum is such a wealth of information and I’ve learned a ton of information here.

[MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] deserves all the credit. I had major rubbing issues and he suggest G setting. I then tested ever single setting and G was the best option for tire clearance and still get up to 2* caster. I've been hammering this info here and Tacoma forum ever since.

 

[TonyB66]

How important is it that these pre-alignment steps take place on a flat and level surface?

The concrete garage floor, like most, is quite flat and level, a good thing. However, while my 4Runner just barely fits into our garage now, when driven forward (not backed in), it will not be able to exit once lifted. So, I can't do it there... The asphalt driveway has a decent spot that seems to pretty flat though, but certainly not as true as the garage floor.

 

[4-Ripcord]

[MENTION=28808]psraff[/MENTION] If you feel so inclined to add this to the original post, the best way to use the SPC arms for max tire clearance is as follows (taken from my tacoma build thread, but all the info is still applicable here).

SPC's adjustment chart:

Basically what we want to do is set the factory lower arm cams at max caster, then do the entire alignment using the SPC upper ball joint (except for the toe setting of course).

To elaborate on the lower arm cams, move the forward bushing in towards the truck and move the rearward bushing outward. This will move the lower ball joint forward.

I ended up going with the F setting on the SPC ball joint for both sides. This, combined with adjusting the lower arms as instructed, moved the tire about 1” forward in the wheel well. This is a HUGE amount when trying to help with your rubbing.

After all that, camber can be set with the slot in the upper control arm and toe is set on the Tie Rods.


Watch this video for a summary of the changes.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/f2YhnldfI50" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

With a lot of other aftermarket arms, you end up with 4+ deg of caster which is the only way to get some tire clearance and still set the alignment with the lower arm cams. So with SPC arms, I am able to get my alignment pretty damn perfect and still have more tire clearance than them.

 

[thezentree]

Any of yall had issues with the upper ball joint losing torque and slipping in the slot? I need to grab my torque wrench when I get home but I think my passenger UBJ just slipped a bunch.

 

[thezentree]

Any of yall had issues with the upper ball joint losing torque and slipping in the slot? I need to grab my torque wrench when I get home but I think my passenger UBJ just slipped a bunch.

Nevermind, got it on jack stands and it's still torqued and it doesn't look like it slipped at all. Now I just gotta figure out what that terrible groan was that started today

 

[TonyB66]

Well, I finally got the alignment done.

Interestingly he didn't have to touch the cam adjusters and the SPC UCAs. He got the above alignment simply by adjusting the tie rods.

This is what I did beforehand, all to the max:

- Both rear cams pushed outward as far as possible
- Both front cams pulled inward as far as possible
- SPC UCAs on "G" moved inward far as possible

With that he simply played with the tie rods...

 

[fourfive]

Interestingly he didn't have to touch the cam adjusters and the SPC UCAs. He got the above alignment simply by adjusting the tie rods.

This is what I did beforehand, all to the max:

- Both rear cams pushed outward as far as possible
- Both front cams pulled inward as far as possible
- SPC UCAs on "G" moved inward far as possible

With that he simply played with the tie rods...

Alignment numbers look great. Those are the best caster numbers I've seen on G. Everything drive pretty well?

 

[TonyB66]

Alignment numbers look great. Those are the best caster numbers I've seen on G. Everything drive pretty well?

Based upon the sheets and info shared here, I told the guys at the shop that 2 degrees of caster might be the most they can get; and that I'd be fine with that... The shop sells and installs these SPC arms and have quite a bit of experience doing alignments on lifted rigs, including our 3rd gens. Even though they are a little more expensive and a 30+ minute drive, I found it worthwhile...

Unless I missed it, I don't recall anyone previously saying that their alignment techs tinkered with the tie rods. I was wondering myself why. Maybe just assumed... Comments here on shop adjustments were limited to the eccentric cam bolts and the top nut on the SPC UCAs.

So, I've only driven home that day and I can say that it tracks straight, steering feels light and centers after turns. I think it might center even a bit better if I back-off the steering rack guide a little more. I just installed a new one, and made it a little tighter than spec before the alignment. I believe I noticed, possibly only at certain speeds, a slight left/right movement in the steering wheel. I'll drive it again later this week. As happy as I was/am about the caster, the toe less so. I had my oldest kid with me, other commitments, so I didn't ask for additional tinkering to improve upon the toe. I can bring it back for free within 6 months or 6,000 miles, and I plan to do so...

 

[fourfive]

Unless I missed it, I don't recall anyone previously saying that their alignment techs tinkered with the tie rods. I was wondering myself why. Maybe just assumed... Comments here on shop adjustments were limited to the eccentric cam bolts and the top nut on the SPC UCAs.

Interesting, mine has kinda been the opposite. My experience with the crappier alignment shops has generally been that they will adjust the tie rods/toe all day long but rarely touch the cams. The 1 or 2 decent alignment shops would usually adjust both. I agree, would easily drive further and pay extra for a good alignment shop. I'm trying out a new shop this Friday because the shop I used the last couple times got a little worse each time. Is your UBJ still on G or did they change it during the alignment?

 

[phattyduck]

Unless I missed it, I don't recall anyone previously saying that their alignment techs tinkered with the tie rods.

ALL alignment shops mess with the tie rods. That's the one thing they all do, which is why it isn't mentioned. Crappy places only mess with them and ignore everything else.

In the case of your alignment, you did all the hard work in your driveway, so you made it easy for the tech. Everything is within spec and near the middle. I'd be quite happy.

If it was a car, I'd go for less toe... but its a truck and you want stability. Caster might be nice to have slightly higher on the passenger side (~0.1-0.2*), but if it tracks well and doesn't follow a crown excessively, keep it as is.

Be happy and drive the thing!

-Charlie

PS. For reference, here is my alignment sheet. Stock arms, 1.5" lift in the front, 2" in the back.:

 

[4-Ripcord]

Adjusting the tie rods for toe is the easiest and most basic adjustment during an alignment, and one whos calibration is most critical for tire wear. If they AREN'T adjusting toe then be surprised.